Big Blue's Transformation

[Sac79]

Well, a sheet metal screw into the "rivnut" isn't going to work as they are threaded. And I can see how Rob was having trouble with them spinning as they sure are easy to remove. May put them back with a dab of hot-melt.

Anyway, I think I'll find out what thread they are and order the matching flanged button-head or truss-head screws to match. Won't match the rest of the truck, but at least all of the ones in the Highliner will match. And I won't have to countersink the holes. Plus, I won't worry about the bouncing pulling the screw heads through the plastic.

Gary, they not only spun, they came out with the weight of the radio. I replaced them with larger ones.

If that radio wasn't so small I would have said put it in there without the Highliner bracket, but you're right, it looks odd. How about mounting the radio to the Highliner and just covering it with the Highliner bracket/tray? Still with it poking out a cutout in front and holes for sound in the base.

[Gary Lewis]

Gary, they not only spun, they came out with the weight of the radio. I replaced them with larger ones.

If that radio wasn't so small I would have said put it in there without the Highliner bracket, but you're right, it looks odd. How about mounting the radio to the Highliner and just covering it with the Highliner bracket/tray? Still with it poking out a cutout in front and holes for sound in the base.

Bummer! I forgot that they came out with the weight of the radio.

Mine fit in fairly tightly, and since the threaded portion is above the Highliner they are meant to spread out as they pull down. So maybe they'll work if I run the screws in snugly - which I can do w/o fear of breaking the plastic due to the flanged-head spreading the load.

As for connecting the radio to the Highliner itself, I can do that but it is more difficult as it is hard to measure inside that closed area. But, if it worked out fairly well then I wouldn't have to cut the bracket. In fact, I wouldn't even have to order more screws. Nor put holes in the L-shaped piece other than for the sound to pass through.

So, it seems like trying it attached to the top would be the first thing. Then I can always do the more destructive approach. Either way I cut the hole in the face of the L-shaped bracket for the radio to slip into and then figure out where to mount the radio to match the hole. So if I don't figure out how to do it in the top I can flip it over and mount it to the bottom piece.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Bummer! I forgot that they came out with the weight of the radio.

Mine fit in fairly tightly, and since the threaded portion is above the Highliner they are meant to spread out as they pull down. So maybe they'll work if I run the screws in snugly - which I can do w/o fear of breaking the plastic due to the flanged-head spreading the load.

As for connecting the radio to the Highliner itself, I can do that but it is more difficult as it is hard to measure inside that closed area. But, if it worked out fairly well then I wouldn't have to cut the bracket. In fact, I wouldn't even have to order more screws. Nor put holes in the L-shaped piece other than for the sound to pass through.

So, it seems like trying it attached to the top would be the first thing. Then I can always do the more destructive approach. Either way I cut the hole in the face of the L-shaped bracket for the radio to slip into and then figure out where to mount the radio to match the hole. So if I don't figure out how to do it in the top I can flip it over and mount it to the bottom piece.

Put them in from the back side.

You're not pulling the brim of the top hat out through the hole.

[Gary Lewis]

Put them in from the back side.

You're not pulling the brim of the top hat out through the hole.

If I understand what you are saying that's not going to work as they are ~1" long. And the threaded part is in the end that would be down so you can't cut it off. There would be a 3/4" gap between the lip of the L-shaped piece and the top.

I think Rob's suggestion is the best because if it doesn't work then no harm, no foul. I move on to cutting a hole in the bracket and mount it to the bottom.

[ArdWrknTrk]

If I understand what you are saying that's not going to work as they are ~1" long. And the threaded part is in the end that would be down so you can't cut it off. There would be a 3/4" gap between the lip of the L-shaped piece and the top.

I think Rob's suggestion is the best because if it doesn't work then no harm, no foul. I move on to cutting a hole in the bracket and mount it to the bottom.

How do you get a well nut to expand if you don't have a way to hold it tight to the surface?

Maybe a bushing or standoff that's slightly less than the gap?

[Sac79]

How do you get a well nut to expand if you don't have a way to hold it tight to the surface?

Maybe a bushing or standoff that's slightly less than the gap?

If you manage to mount the radio to the Highliner, the stock 'nuts' will probably be fine as they'll have no extra weight on them. To be fair, they'll probably be fine regardless as your radio is so small. But getting larger ones will be easy enough if you need to.

[Gary Lewis]

If you manage to mount the radio to the Highliner, the stock 'nuts' will probably be fine as they'll have no extra weight on them. To be fair, they'll probably be fine regardless as your radio is so small. But getting larger ones will be easy enough if you need to.

Jim - The nuts are a push, not press, fit in the holes. Apparently the plan is for that to provide enough friction to be able to tighten the screws. And as you do that the rubber part above the plastic panel but below the brass threads is meant to expand and prevent it from coming back through the hole.

But, as Rob experienced, that's not always what happens. IIRC, his turned as he tightened them, and then eventually came through the hole due to the weight of the radio.

Rob - I agree these are probably strong enough to hold that little radio. But I like the idea of fastening the radio to the top to ensure there are no problems.

And having thought about it, I think that having the Highliner upside down on the work table will make it fairly easy to do this. I'll measure and cut the hole in the face, place the radio on the bracket laying on the Highliner, and see how it lines up with the hole in the face. Then shim until it does line up. But that begs the question of how to attach the bracket to the top.

Rob - The roof has a center section that runs from the front to the back and is lower than the rest. Does the Highliner come up against that and mash that foam? Or does the shape of it keep it away and it just comes up against the foam? If the foam isn't mashed then I could use a couple of screws with nuts on the top. If the foam is mashed maybe I'd want to screw into the roof.

Thoughts?

[Sac79]

Jim - The nuts are a push, not press, fit in the holes. Apparently the plan is for that to provide enough friction to be able to tighten the screws. And as you do that the rubber part above the plastic panel but below the brass threads is meant to expand and prevent it from coming back through the hole.

But, as Rob experienced, that's not always what happens. IIRC, his turned as he tightened them, and then eventually came through the hole due to the weight of the radio.

Rob - I agree these are probably strong enough to hold that little radio. But I like the idea of fastening the radio to the top to ensure there are no problems.

And having thought about it, I think that having the Highliner upside down on the work table will make it fairly easy to do this. I'll measure and cut the hole in the face, place the radio on the bracket laying on the Highliner, and see how it lines up with the hole in the face. Then shim until it does line up. But that begs the question of how to attach the bracket to the top.

Rob - The roof has a center section that runs from the front to the back and is lower than the rest. Does the Highliner come up against that and mash that foam? Or does the shape of it keep it away and it just comes up against the foam? If the foam isn't mashed then I could use a couple of screws with nuts on the top. If the foam is mashed maybe I'd want to screw into the roof.

Thoughts?

I don't think it's mashed, if I recall correctly my wires run right along there and they had freedom of movement. I think a couple of small nuts will be fine, if you keep it less than the thickness of the foam, you can't go wrong.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Jim - The nuts are a push, not press, fit in the holes. Apparently the plan is for that to provide enough friction to be able to tighten the screws. And as you do that the rubber part above the plastic panel but below the brass threads is meant to expand and prevent it from coming back through the hole.

But, as Rob experienced, that's not always what happens. IIRC, his turned as he tightened them, and then eventually came through the hole due to the weight of the radio.

Rob - I agree these are probably strong enough to hold that little radio. But I like the idea of fastening the radio to the top to ensure there are no problems.

And having thought about it, I think that having the Highliner upside down on the work table will make it fairly easy to do this. I'll measure and cut the hole in the face, place the radio on the bracket laying on the Highliner, and see how it lines up with the hole in the face. Then shim until it does line up. But that begs the question of how to attach the bracket to the top.

Rob - The roof has a center section that runs from the front to the back and is lower than the rest. Does the Highliner come up against that and mash that foam? Or does the shape of it keep it away and it just comes up against the foam? If the foam isn't mashed then I could use a couple of screws with nuts on the top. If the foam is mashed maybe I'd want to screw into the roof.

Thoughts?

Put a drop of crazy glue on the well nut and then push it in.

It won't turn, and you will be able to expand the rubber shank.

[Gary Lewis]

Put a drop of crazy glue on the well nut and then push it in.

It won't turn, and you will be able to expand the rubber shank.

Ok Rob, thanks. I plan to do some investigating to see how much room there is up there as I do want to put whatever insulation I can up there - either in addition to or in place of that foam.

Jim - I was thinking hot-melt, but we are thinking alike.