Big Blue's Transformation

[Gary Lewis]

Gary you might try this on your dash cover. I used it when I worked on Firetrucks all the time.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/permatex-4569/chemicals---fluids-16461/glues--adhesives---sealants-19861/gasket-makers---sealers-19581/166cc2694828/permatex-clear-rtv-silicone-adhesive-sealant/80050/4610210?q=adhesive+silicone&pos=8

Thanks, Bruce. The covers come with a tube of clear RTV, so I have the one that come with the broken one and supposedly will get one with the new one, so would assume that will be enough? But I want it on really well so will probably get some of the Permatex as well.

[Gary Lewis]

Thanks, Bruce. The covers come with a tube of clear RTV, so I have the one that come with the broken one and supposedly will get one with the new one, so would assume that will be enough? But I want it on really well so will probably get some of the Permatex as well.

The Highliner came in today.

In looking over how to install the Midland GMRS radio I've come up with two possibilities and would like your opinions:

Open: I could just mount the radio's bracket to the Highliner and let the radio sit out in the open, as shown below. But the little radio looks ..... lost in that big space. And the hole in the Highliner, visible on the right/back of the radio, would require a grommet - although even then the wires would be obvious.

Finished: It wouldn't be difficult to attach the mount to the L-shaped piece that closes off the pocket and mill a hole in the face of it, through which the radio would poke. The radio is a nice rectangle so it would be easy to cut the hole. And I would drill holes in the bottom of the L-shaped piece for the sound from the speaker to pass through. Then just connect the power and antenna wires and attach the L-shaped piece to the Highliner.

[kramttocs]

The Highliner came in today.

In looking over how to install the Midland GMRS radio I've come up with two possibilities and would like your opinions:

Open: I could just mount the radio's bracket to the Highliner and let the radio sit out in the open, as shown below. But the little radio looks ..... lost in that big space. And the hole in the Highliner, visible on the right/back of the radio, would require a grommet - although even then the wires would be obvious.

Finished: It wouldn't be difficult to attach the mount to the L-shaped piece that closes off the pocket and mill a hole in the face of it, through which the radio would poke. The radio is a nice rectangle so it would be easy to cut the hole. And I would drill holes in the bottom of the L-shaped piece for the sound from the speaker to pass through. Then just connect the power and antenna wires and attach the L-shaped piece to the Highliner.

I vote Finished

[Gary Lewis]

I vote Finished

Thanks, Scott. That's actually my vote as well.

Turns out that the L-shaped piece doesn't have a 90 degree angle where the bottom meets the "face". So I'm going to have to mill an angled shim to align the radio to the face. But I need the shim anyway in order to get the radio up to the center of the face, so that's not much of a problem.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Thanks, Scott. That's actually my vote as well.

Turns out that the L-shaped piece doesn't have a 90 degree angle where the bottom meets the "face". So I'm going to have to mill an angled shim to align the radio to the face. But I need the shim anyway in order to get the radio up to the center of the face, so that's not much of a problem.

I too think it would look better behind the panel.

You said you intend to leave the highliner black?

[Gary Lewis]

I too think it would look better behind the panel.

You said you intend to leave the highliner black?

Yes, black.

[Gary Lewis]

Yes, black.

I have more questions regarding the installation of the GMRS radio, but will need to get some pics to make the questions make sense. So that will come later.

But for now, I ordered the Coverlay dash cover on Saturday morning from LMC. Today I got an email from them that says it is being shipped, and then I clicked on the "Tracking" link to find this. Really? FedEx doesn't have it yet but I'll have it today? But I think "The delivery date may be updated" bit is probably going to kick in.

[Gary Lewis]

I have more questions regarding the installation of the GMRS radio, but will need to get some pics to make the questions make sense. So that will come later.But for now, I ordered the Coverlay dash cover on Saturday morning from LMC. Today I got an email from them that says it is being shipped, and then I clicked on the "Tracking" link to find this. Really? FedEx doesn't have it yet but I'll have it today? But I think "The delivery date may be updated" bit is probably going to kick in.

Ok, here's the detail on the radio mounting question. I'd planned to mount the radio to the L-shaped piece, but I've now realized that doing so will create a less-than-desirable path for the sound. The issue is that the mounting bracket is the same width as the speaker and there's only a 1/4" gap between the speaker and the bracket.

 

It looks to me like there are these options, but I'd like to get your thoughts on what others I'm missing and which you like. And pictures are below to help your understanding.

 

1. Cut The Bracket In Half: I could cut the bracket so it doesn't overlap the speaker and perforate the plastic. But that means that there will only be a small "foot" of the bracket left to attach to the L-shaped piece and it won't be nearly as strong as if it has a piece going all the way across.

 

Perforate The Bracket: I could perforate the bracket which would let the sound through but still leave a cross piece front and rear. However, the holes probably can't be uniform given the raised places on the bracket, and the holes on the bracket have to match those in the L-shaped piece as the bracket will be flat against it. So the holes in the L-shaped piece can't be uniform.

 

Mount The Radio To The Top: I could just mount the bracket, and therefore the radio, to the main part of the Highliner and I think the nose would still poke through the face of the L-shaped piece. I could perforate the L-shaped piece right below the radio and glue a piece of foam to it with a hole cut in the foam the same size as the speaker. That way the sound would come straight down through the perforations and be as clear as possible.

 

What options am I missing?

 

Here's the speaker:

 

 

 

Here's the radio with the bracket on covering the speaker:

 

 

 

Here's the space between the bracket and the speaker, which is about 1/4":

 

[ArdWrknTrk]

Ok, here's the detail on the radio mounting question. I'd planned to mount the radio to the L-shaped piece, but I've now realized that doing so will create a less-than-desirable path for the sound. The issue is that the mounting bracket is the same width as the speaker and there's only a 1/4" gap between the speaker and the bracket.

 

It looks to me like there are these options, but I'd like to get your thoughts on what others I'm missing and which you like. And pictures are below to help your understanding.

 

1. Cut The Bracket In Half: I could cut the bracket so it doesn't overlap the speaker and perforate the plastic. But that means that there will only be a small "foot" of the bracket left to attach to the L-shaped piece and it won't be nearly as strong as if it has a piece going all the way across.

 

Perforate The Bracket: I could perforate the bracket which would let the sound through but still leave a cross piece front and rear. However, the holes probably can't be uniform given the raised places on the bracket, and the holes on the bracket have to match those in the L-shaped piece as the bracket will be flat against it. So the holes in the L-shaped piece can't be uniform.

 

Mount The Radio To The Top: I could just mount the bracket, and therefore the radio, to the main part of the Highliner and I think the nose would still poke through the face of the L-shaped piece. I could perforate the L-shaped piece right below the radio and glue a piece of foam to it with a hole cut in the foam the same size as the speaker. That way the sound would come straight down through the perforations and be as clear as possible.

 

What options am I missing?

 

Here's the speaker:

 

 

 

Here's the radio with the bracket on covering the speaker:

 

 

 

Here's the space between the bracket and the speaker, which is about 1/4":

 

I imagine you could take a hole saw and center up on that hole between the two slots, leaving some meat front and rear.While it may not give you all the speaker opening, it would be at least as good as how it would be with the radio mounted in the bracket as intended.

[kramttocs]

Ok, here's the detail on the radio mounting question. I'd planned to mount the radio to the L-shaped piece, but I've now realized that doing so will create a less-than-desirable path for the sound. The issue is that the mounting bracket is the same width as the speaker and there's only a 1/4" gap between the speaker and the bracket.

 

It looks to me like there are these options, but I'd like to get your thoughts on what others I'm missing and which you like. And pictures are below to help your understanding.

 

1. Cut The Bracket In Half: I could cut the bracket so it doesn't overlap the speaker and perforate the plastic. But that means that there will only be a small "foot" of the bracket left to attach to the L-shaped piece and it won't be nearly as strong as if it has a piece going all the way across.

 

Perforate The Bracket: I could perforate the bracket which would let the sound through but still leave a cross piece front and rear. However, the holes probably can't be uniform given the raised places on the bracket, and the holes on the bracket have to match those in the L-shaped piece as the bracket will be flat against it. So the holes in the L-shaped piece can't be uniform.

 

Mount The Radio To The Top: I could just mount the bracket, and therefore the radio, to the main part of the Highliner and I think the nose would still poke through the face of the L-shaped piece. I could perforate the L-shaped piece right below the radio and glue a piece of foam to it with a hole cut in the foam the same size as the speaker. That way the sound would come straight down through the perforations and be as clear as possible.

 

What options am I missing?

 

Here's the speaker:

 

 

 

Here's the radio with the bracket on covering the speaker:

 

 

 

Here's the space between the bracket and the speaker, which is about 1/4":

 

I think I'd go with option 1.Cut the center part out of the bracket. Make the speaker holes in the L shaped bracket, looking just like the dash (grid included)Make the overall size of the speaker design the size needed so that four button head bolts visually fit into the pattern and bolt the feet in. Not having had the L bracket in hand, this is assuming it is ridgid enough.