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Big Blue's Transformation


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Is that a photo of Sunrise or Sunset? :nabble_smiley_whistling:

The sunrise we saw last Friday when we left Estes Park was just like an orange coming up over the Earth. That was due to the smoke from the Cameron Peak fire, which was causing evacuations 7 miles from us.

And the sunsets were extra red as well.

So I don't think this compares - it is WHITE! Hard on eyes, really. But it sure will come in handy. :nabble_smiley_wink:

And, speaking of light, I bought a really good LED flashlight while in Estes Park. It is rechargeable via USB so I'm hoping to put it on a behind-the-seat storage rack and have it trickle-charged when the truck is running so it is always ready. :nabble_smiley_wink:

 

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The sunrise we saw last Friday when we left Estes Park was just like an orange coming up over the Earth. That was due to the smoke from the Cameron Peak fire, which was causing evacuations 7 miles from us.

And the sunsets were extra red as well.

So I don't think this compares - it is WHITE! Hard on eyes, really. But it sure will come in handy. :nabble_smiley_wink:

And, speaking of light, I bought a really good LED flashlight while in Estes Park. It is rechargeable via USB so I'm hoping to put it on a behind-the-seat storage rack and have it trickle-charged when the truck is running so it is always ready. :nabble_smiley_wink:

I'm now creating a list of places from which to acquire a Highliner. For Christmas? :nabble_smiley_evil:

  • Jeff's Bronco Graveyard: $275 but out of stock. However, on 10/22 I spoke with Pat there and he said that they have an order coming in about a month. So if I ordered soon it would ship from them in a month. And the price is $275 + $59.05 shipping.

  • Classic Parts: Doesn't say if in stock, and this is the one w/o factory headliner. And it is $325 + $60 shipping. :nabble_smiley_argh:

  • CarID: Really poor website as it doesn't give the vehicle the various ones are for but says each is vehicle-specific.

  • Dashtop: This is the outfit that makes them, I think. $400 plus $68.08 shipping estimate.

  • LMC: $375 plus shipping of $57.25. Says they are in stock.

  • NPD: $375 + $30 shipping, and they are in stock

More to come as I find them.....

592_image.png.2c617ca3c4172d903b4bbff7cfc6ec92.png

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I'm now creating a list of places from which to acquire a Highliner. For Christmas? :nabble_smiley_evil:

  • Jeff's Bronco Graveyard: $275 but out of stock. However, on 10/22 I spoke with Pat there and he said that they have an order coming in about a month. So if I ordered soon it would ship from them in a month. And the price is $275 + $59.05 shipping.

  • Classic Parts: Doesn't say if in stock, and this is the one w/o factory headliner. And it is $325 + $60 shipping. :nabble_smiley_argh:

  • CarID: Really poor website as it doesn't give the vehicle the various ones are for but says each is vehicle-specific.

  • Dashtop: This is the outfit that makes them, I think. $400 plus $68.08 shipping estimate.

  • LMC: $375 plus shipping of $57.25. Says they are in stock.

  • NPD: $375 + $30 shipping, and they are in stock

More to come as I find them.....

Bad luck with the Highliner being out of stock at JBG. Same with the leaks, it's not that you don't have enough other stuff to get on with. BB must be scared that you'll shift your attention to Dad's...

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Bad luck with the Highliner being out of stock at JBG. Same with the leaks, it's not that you don't have enough other stuff to get on with. BB must be scared that you'll shift your attention to Dad's...

Thanks, Rob. I'll call JBG today and see what the story is on the Highliner.

As for the leaks, they are just what David said - more layers on the onion. :nabble_smiley_cry:

My son recently said, after I told him about the leaks, that he's worried about taking Big Blue to the trails in CO as he doesn't want to pollute. I explained that now the engine, transmission, and transfer case are solid, no leaking at all. And all I have to do is replace a few more things and it'll be - a new vehicle. :nabble_smiley_oh:

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Thanks, Rob. I'll call JBG today and see what the story is on the Highliner.

As for the leaks, they are just what David said - more layers on the onion. :nabble_smiley_cry:

My son recently said, after I told him about the leaks, that he's worried about taking Big Blue to the trails in CO as he doesn't want to pollute. I explained that now the engine, transmission, and transfer case are solid, no leaking at all. And all I have to do is replace a few more things and it'll be - a new vehicle. :nabble_smiley_oh:

That's funny Gary!

I was thinking the same thing. :nabble_smiley_evil:

While I don't ever want to belittle environmental consciousness, think of all the vehicles that rip open an oil pan or break an axle out there.

A little piddle is literally a drop in the ocean compared to that type of Valdez disaster.

The superfund site that is my undercarriage is the only thing that has kept my truck from turning to dust.

... and now I have a good FMS and cast valve covers!

So it's pretty dry under there when I replaced my floor.

Which reminds me, I need to Fluidfilm or something before winter gets here.

 

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That's funny Gary!

I was thinking the same thing. :nabble_smiley_evil:

While I don't ever want to belittle environmental consciousness, think of all the vehicles that rip open an oil pan or break an axle out there.

A little piddle is literally a drop in the ocean compared to that type of Valdez disaster.

The superfund site that is my undercarriage is the only thing that has kept my truck from turning to dust.

... and now I have a good FMS and cast valve covers!

So it's pretty dry under there when I replaced my floor.

Which reminds me, I need to Fluidfilm or something before winter gets here.

Yes, once you fix the leaks y'all up north need to preserve the steel.

Ok, last night I slipped out and took a pic of the engine compartment with the new LED bulb in the underhood light. It isn't nearly as bright as your engine compartment, Jim, but it'll work for now.

Dark_Shot_Of_Underhood_Light_On.thumb.jpg.f4b74a380cab7160aa27c2737ecb98fc.jpg

And then this morning Amazon delivered the new radiator cap - the fancy one with a thermometer in it. As soon as I pulled it out of the box I knew there was a problem. It is already on its way back so I'll be looking for another like it, albeit with a Fahrenheit scale this time.

Radiator_Cap_Side-By-Side.thumb.jpg.f62db95d9dfe96bf923849210ff02fd1.jpgRadiator_Caps_Stacked.thumb.jpg.7e32cf97a638b48a9bb2cc5d85f92fd7.jpg

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Yes, once you fix the leaks y'all up north need to preserve the steel.

Ok, last night I slipped out and took a pic of the engine compartment with the new LED bulb in the underhood light. It isn't nearly as bright as your engine compartment, Jim, but it'll work for now.

And then this morning Amazon delivered the new radiator cap - the fancy one with a thermometer in it. As soon as I pulled it out of the box I knew there was a problem. It is already on its way back so I'll be looking for another like it, albeit with a Fahrenheit scale this time.

I see Cory mentioned Fluid film in black???

I usually use bar oil and toilet rings in a Shutz gun, but I may have to try.

I don't have any problem with metric, in fact knowing that 100* is "critical" makes it simple.

But if you have the hood open and looking at the radiator there's already a problem

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I see Cory mentioned Fluid film in black???

I usually use bar oil and toilet rings in a Shutz gun, but I may have to try.

I don't have any problem with metric, in fact knowing that 100* is "critical" makes it simple.

But if you have the hood open and looking at the radiator there's already a problem

Yeah, I'm not finding a cap w/a thermometer save for the ones from Mr Junk, and I won't use their stuff. So I just ordered an AC Delco cap.

And I finally got through to JBG - on the 11th call. They are out of stock on the Highliner but have another shipment coming in about a month. So since it is a Christmas present, that should work - if I can get Janey to push the button. Oh, and their price is $275 plus shipping where most of the others are $375 plus shipping. Maybe I can use the savings for a CB? :nabble_smiley_evil:

Also, I did a lot of research on SEM products and got the paint, cleaner, and adhesion promoter on order from Vinyl Pro.

The main research was on the SEM website via this document. But I had some questions so called the SEM tech support line and talked to Dave - twice. He really is helpful, and I learned several things:

  • Part #'s: They put a 5th digit at the end of their 4-digit part number to indicate the size/type of the container. For instance, Sand Free is #3836, but if you get it in an aerosol can it'll be 38363, and the SEM Soap is 3936, and in the squeeze bottle it is 39362.

  • Clear: There's no reason to use their clear coat, like 13023 Low Luster Clear, unless you just want to change the sheen of the Color Coat finish. The Color Coat has plenty of UV protection. But, if you want solvent protection you can use a catalyzed clear. Not 13023, but one with a catalyst. However, you don't want to use that on flexible plastic as it is hard.

  • Plastic: Use Color Coat, but first clean the plastic with SEM Soap, applied with a gray scuff pad. Then clean again with 3835 Plastic & Leather Cleaner. Last, use 3836 Sand Free as an adhesion promoter and apply a light coat of Color Coat while the Sand Free is still wet, followed by light mist coats with 5 - 10 minutes between them.

  • Metal: You can use Color Coat just fine on metal. If it doesn't have paint on it already you need to prime it. If it already has a paint coating then use SEM Soap with a gray scuff pad to both clean it and take the sheen off, and then follow that with 3835 Plastic & Leather Prep. Let it dry and paint.

Lots of things to do!

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Yeah, I'm not finding a cap w/a thermometer save for the ones from Mr Junk, and I won't use their stuff. So I just ordered an AC Delco cap.

And I finally got through to JBG - on the 11th call. They are out of stock on the Highliner but have another shipment coming in about a month. So since it is a Christmas present, that should work - if I can get Janey to push the button. Oh, and their price is $275 plus shipping where most of the others are $375 plus shipping. Maybe I can use the savings for a CB? :nabble_smiley_evil:

Also, I did a lot of research on SEM products and got the paint, cleaner, and adhesion promoter on order from Vinyl Pro.

The main research was on the SEM website via this document. But I had some questions so called the SEM tech support line and talked to Dave - twice. He really is helpful, and I learned several things:

  • Part #'s: They put a 5th digit at the end of their 4-digit part number to indicate the size/type of the container. For instance, Sand Free is #3836, but if you get it in an aerosol can it'll be 38363, and the SEM Soap is 3936, and in the squeeze bottle it is 39362.

  • Clear: There's no reason to use their clear coat, like 13023 Low Luster Clear, unless you just want to change the sheen of the Color Coat finish. The Color Coat has plenty of UV protection. But, if you want solvent protection you can use a catalyzed clear. Not 13023, but one with a catalyst. However, you don't want to use that on flexible plastic as it is hard.

  • Plastic: Use Color Coat, but first clean the plastic with SEM Soap, applied with a gray scuff pad. Then clean again with 3835 Plastic & Leather Cleaner. Last, use 3836 Sand Free as an adhesion promoter and apply a light coat of Color Coat while the Sand Free is still wet, followed by light mist coats with 5 - 10 minutes between them.

  • Metal: You can use Color Coat just fine on metal. If it doesn't have paint on it already you need to prime it. If it already has a paint coating then use SEM Soap with a gray scuff pad to both clean it and take the sheen off, and then follow that with 3835 Plastic & Leather Prep. Let it dry and paint.

Lots of things to do!

Ok, a little bird told me that a highliner will appear some time around Christmas! :nabble_anim_jump: So now I want to discuss CB's a bit more.

Rob - One of the questions that I have is how large the space is in the Highliner for a CB? Do you know? I'm trying to understand which CB's will fit.

Dane - Tell me more about the President Bill. What would you change about it? What about the speaker - you said earlier you'd go with an external speaker. But it has a bottom speaker and if I drill the lower piece of the Highliner to let sound through, will that be good enough?

Others to recommend?

I've found a few review sites:

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Ok, a little bird told me that a highliner will appear some time around Christmas! :nabble_anim_jump: So now I want to discuss CB's a bit more.

Rob - One of the questions that I have is how large the space is in the Highliner for a CB? Do you know? I'm trying to understand which CB's will fit.

Dane - Tell me more about the President Bill. What would you change about it? What about the speaker - you said earlier you'd go with an external speaker. But it has a bottom speaker and if I drill the lower piece of the Highliner to let sound through, will that be good enough?

Others to recommend?

I've found a few review sites:

I'm no expert on 2-way radios, but it seems to me that most people are moving away from CBs. Bao Feng is a radio (brand I assume) that I see quite a bit of interest in. From what I gather they are slightly more powerful versions of the hand-held FRS radios. I think that you are supposed to have a license to use them, but it would appear that requirement is not widely followed or enforced. But CBs seem to be considered to be inferior to FRS which are inferior to these radios. Again, I'm no expert and I've probably already said more than I know :nabble_smiley_blush:, and at this point have no personal interest in getting a 2-way radio so I don't plan to look into it any farther. So I'll leave it at that.

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