Big Blue's Transformation

[Gary Lewis]

That spacer with the port is neat!

Yes, it is! I can connect the fresh air hose for the PCV system to that and not have the little filter in the air cleaner housing.

I just hope it is enough to get the snorkel over the A/C hose. We'll see next week.

[Gary Lewis]

Yes, it is! I can connect the fresh air hose for the PCV system to that and not have the little filter in the air cleaner housing.I just hope it is enough to get the snorkel over the A/C hose. We'll see next week.

Interesting day, today. I was planning to finish the alignment by dialing in the camber and caster. (The caster is quite close, but if you are changing the camber you might as well dial in the caster at the same time.)

 

So I went looking for the paperwork that came with the eccentrics, the ones that Steve/FoxFord33 used last Wednesday. But I couldn't find them so downloaded them from the internet. However, as I was working through the instructions Janey showed up with the paperwork I couldn't find.

 

But then I ran into a problem as the actual piece of paper differed from the pdf I downloaded in one place - the exact setting I needed. That puzzled me until I discovered that the pdf had the same letter code in two different cells - which is a physical impossibility.

 

So I called Moog. Turns out they didn't know about the problem, but the pdf the guy was working from had the same error. And, he agreed with me that it was incorrect and they need to fix that. You can see the problem in the table below where if you go down the 1/2 degree column you'll see that at -1/2 on caster it says "PM" and if you go to +1/2 it also says "PM". But that should be LC, as I've typed in.

 

But, as I tried to break the eccentrics loose I was stymied. So far I've not been able to get them loose to adjust them. I've soaked them with PB Blaster so maybe tomorrow I can break them loose.

 

[ArdWrknTrk]

Interesting day, today. I was planning to finish the alignment by dialing in the camber and caster. (The caster is quite close, but if you are changing the camber you might as well dial in the caster at the same time.)

 

So I went looking for the paperwork that came with the eccentrics, the ones that Steve/FoxFord33 used last Wednesday. But I couldn't find them so downloaded them from the internet. However, as I was working through the instructions Janey showed up with the paperwork I couldn't find.

 

But then I ran into a problem as the actual piece of paper differed from the pdf I downloaded in one place - the exact setting I needed. That puzzled me until I discovered that the pdf had the same letter code in two different cells - which is a physical impossibility.

 

So I called Moog. Turns out they didn't know about the problem, but the pdf the guy was working from had the same error. And, he agreed with me that it was incorrect and they need to fix that. You can see the problem in the table below where if you go down the 1/2 degree column you'll see that at -1/2 on caster it says "PM" and if you go to +1/2 it also says "PM". But that should be LC, as I've typed in.

 

But, as I tried to break the eccentrics loose I was stymied. So far I've not been able to get them loose to adjust them. I've soaked them with PB Blaster so maybe tomorrow I can break them loose.

 

I'm surprised these charts are hand written.A computer wouldn't confuse positive and negative.Looks like spirograph with scattering.And I'm wondering about 'drivers side' and 'passengers side'There are plenty of nations that drive on the left, England, Scotland, Wales, Ireland, South Africa, Australia, New Zeland, Japan, and territories like Bermuda.Shouldn't it just be left and right, or port and starboard?At least these are universal.

[Gary Lewis]

I'm surprised these charts are hand written.

A computer wouldn't confuse positive and negative.

Looks like spirograph with scattering.

And I'm wondering about 'drivers side' and 'passengers side'

There are plenty of nations that drive on the left, England, Scotland, Wales, Ireland, South Africa, Australia, New Zeland, Japan, and territories like Bermuda.

Shouldn't it just be left and right, or port and starboard?

At least these are universal.

Good point, Jim.

Any tips on getting the eccentrics loose? I've banged on the knuckle, put the nut on the ball joint and banged on it, and even tried to pry it up by driving a chisel under one of the tabs - but broke the tab off.

[Ray Cecil]

Good point, Jim.

Any tips on getting the eccentrics loose? I've banged on the knuckle, put the nut on the ball joint and banged on it, and even tried to pry it up by driving a chisel under one of the tabs - but broke the tab off.

WOW. Sounds like you and I are going through a similar scenario.

I noticed how tight the moog bushing was as I started installing it. So I stopped just shy of the locking tabs engaging. So, my eccentric is not installed fully, I figured I would get the suspension back together and put all the weight back on the wheels before driving those eccentrics all the way in.

I too broke an eccentric trying to pull it out.

Maybe try my puller trick in my youtube video. These moog bushings dont look too stout to be pulling on though. Hopefully you wont need to drop the knuckles like I will on my drivers side.

[Ray Cecil]

WOW. Sounds like you and I are going through a similar scenario.

I noticed how tight the moog bushing was as I started installing it. So I stopped just shy of the locking tabs engaging. So, my eccentric is not installed fully, I figured I would get the suspension back together and put all the weight back on the wheels before driving those eccentrics all the way in.

I too broke an eccentric trying to pull it out.

Maybe try my puller trick in my youtube video. These moog bushings dont look too stout to be pulling on though. Hopefully you wont need to drop the knuckles like I will on my drivers side.

By the way, what are the specs on caster and chamber angles?

[ArdWrknTrk]

By the way, what are the specs on caster and chamber angles?

For your D44?

Gary shows the screen of the machine in a previous post.

But that is for a solid D60 axle in a '95 F350

[ArdWrknTrk]

Good point, Jim.

Any tips on getting the eccentrics loose? I've banged on the knuckle, put the nut on the ball joint and banged on it, and even tried to pry it up by driving a chisel under one of the tabs - but broke the tab off.

I'm sorry Gary.

Heat and beat is all I know.

Sometimes they're just sacrificial, but I'd hate to see you there with brand new components.

I've been told by more than one shop not to install them before it's on the rack.

[85lebaront2]

Good point, Jim.

Any tips on getting the eccentrics loose? I've banged on the knuckle, put the nut on the ball joint and banged on it, and even tried to pry it up by driving a chisel under one of the tabs - but broke the tab off.

And you wonder why I like my nice 2WD with it's "old fashioned" king pins. Aligned once in 1994, only adjustments since have been toe-in when the tie rods were replaced. Front tyres wear nice and evenly.

 

[Ray Cecil]

For your D44?

Gary shows the screen of the machine in a previous post.

But that is for a solid D60 axle in a '95 F350

Yes. The specs for the D44 TTB, sorry. I should be more specific.

What does "screen of the machine" mean?