Big Blue's Transformation

[Bruce moose4x4]

In reverse order:

 

Bill - I do remember you saying that, but I assumed that the regulator would handle it. Obviously not.

 

Jim - "No solenoid and no 'actual' regulator." Got it.

 

Shaun - That kind of RPM's on the highway was what Dad's truck was turning with the 3.50's and a C6 @ 65. And that was one of the big reasons I put in the ZF5 - this same ZF5 in fact. But if your 460/T19 combo has 3.55's and 33's it'll turn right at 2500. That's what BB turns in 4th.

 

Rob - I think I can JUST see the camber with my eye on the passenger's side tire. I'd thought before taking it in that it looked slightly out at the top. But it is hard to see.

 

And just for you:

 

Not sure what both pumps look like, but is there any way to just pull out the regulator or unhook and let it just return the fuel , then when you go EFI just hook them back up ???????

[Gary Lewis]

Not sure what both pumps look like, but is there any way to just pull out the regulator or unhook and let it just return the fuel , then when you go EFI just hook them back up ???????

I think that's a question for Jim as he's playing with the FDM I sent him, below.

But that may not be necessary. I have two regulators on and that's got the pressure damped down to a nice 5 1/2 psi using the rear pump. So the question is, what happens if I try the front pump? And that is very easy to find out. All I have to do is to plug the front pump's wiring in, flip the switch to Front, and with the hood open start the truck. I'll know very quickly by running around and checking the gauge.

Or, better yet, I could easily prop the iPhone up where it is looking at the gauge, fire up the Camera app on my Apple watch and I'll be able to watch the gauge from the driver's seat. Start it up, flip the switch, and if it goes sky high either go back to the rear tank or shut it down.

[Bruce moose4x4]

I think that's a question for Jim as he's playing with the FDM I sent him, below.

But that may not be necessary. I have two regulators on and that's got the pressure damped down to a nice 5 1/2 psi using the rear pump. So the question is, what happens if I try the front pump? And that is very easy to find out. All I have to do is to plug the front pump's wiring in, flip the switch to Front, and with the hood open start the truck. I'll know very quickly by running around and checking the gauge.

Or, better yet, I could easily prop the iPhone up where it is looking at the gauge, fire up the Camera app on my Apple watch and I'll be able to watch the gauge from the driver's seat. Start it up, flip the switch, and if it goes sky high either go back to the rear tank or shut it down.

But if you loose a diaphram in one of those out in the wilderness. Your liable to fill the engine with fuel.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I think that's a question for Jim as he's playing with the FDM I sent him, below.

But that may not be necessary. I have two regulators on and that's got the pressure damped down to a nice 5 1/2 psi using the rear pump. So the question is, what happens if I try the front pump? And that is very easy to find out. All I have to do is to plug the front pump's wiring in, flip the switch to Front, and with the hood open start the truck. I'll know very quickly by running around and checking the gauge.

Or, better yet, I could easily prop the iPhone up where it is looking at the gauge, fire up the Camera app on my Apple watch and I'll be able to watch the gauge from the driver's seat. Start it up, flip the switch, and if it goes sky high either go back to the rear tank or shut it down.

I think all you need to do is put the deadhead regulator on a T, with the other side returning to the tank.

The FDM will be happy and the carb will be happy.

[ArdWrknTrk]

But if you loose a diaphram in one of those out in the wilderness. Your liable to fill the engine with fuel.

Can you explain, Bruce?

[Bruce moose4x4]

Can you explain, Bruce?

If I'm not mistaken the regulator is just a diaphram and a spring. The adjustable ones have a screw to vary spring pressure. With that much pressure and pulsing on the diaphram if it cracks or get a hole the fuel will bypass the return. Overpowering the float in the carb. Of course the engine will stop running fairly quickly with that much fuel pressure. Not sure what the pressure ranges of the Regulators Bill is using. The Holley book just shows the pressures the regulator will work for. Not showing an inlet pressure. Most of the regulators (I Think) are rated for the small electric pump pressures 7-15 psi on the holley ones. by pushing 45psi into them not sure how long they will last.

None of this is by experience, just my thoughts of how the stuff works. Or How I think it works.

[ArdWrknTrk]

If I'm not mistaken the regulator is just a diaphram and a spring. The adjustable ones have a screw to vary spring pressure. With that much pressure and pulsing on the diaphram if it cracks or get a hole the fuel will bypass the return. Overpowering the float in the carb. Of course the engine will stop running fairly quickly with that much fuel pressure. Not sure what the pressure ranges of the Regulators Bill is using. The Holley book just shows the pressures the regulator will work for. Not showing an inlet pressure. Most of the regulators (I Think) are rated for the small electric pump pressures 7-15 psi on the holley ones. by pushing 45psi into them not sure how long they will last.

None of this is by experience, just my thoughts of how the stuff works. Or How I think it works.

Yeah, I was thinking you meant to diaphragm in the FDM.

I definitely think tapping into a fuel loop is better than a return regulator in this case.

Almost like British 'ring mains' where every circuit is switched from the full current available in the home.

[Bruce moose4x4]

Yeah, I was thinking you meant to diaphragm in the FDM.

I definitely think tapping into a fuel loop is better than a return regulator in this case.

Almost like British 'ring mains' where every circuit is switched from the full current available in the home.

Holley is showing a couple of regulators that should work. I can see one of Bills is a Holley. 12-845 and 12-847 both show they are made for use with High pressure electric pumps and would reduce to 4.5 to 9 psi. I am pretty sure Bill picked the correct ones.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Holley is showing a couple of regulators that should work. I can see one of Bills is a Holley. 12-845 and 12-847 both show they are made for use with High pressure electric pumps and would reduce to 4.5 to 9 psi. I am pretty sure Bill picked the correct ones.

Given that he owned and ran a carburetor and tune-up shop I wouldn't doubt he knows what's needed.

I definitely think the wild gauge oscillations are an artifact of the residual pressure valve in this FDM.

[Nothing Special]

I think all you need to do is put the deadhead regulator on a T, with the other side returning to the tank.

The FDM will be happy and the carb will be happy.

I might be missing something, but it seems to me that if Gary uses an unrestricted return line it would mean he isn't using the switching valves that Ford used to make sure fuel returned to the tank it was being pulled from. So if (for instance) the return went to the rear tank. If the rear tank was full and he runs on the front tank it would overfill the rear and dump gas on the ground.

Still, that's not the end of the world. Run the rear tank first, then switch to the front tank when the rear is empty, then switch back to the rear when the front is empty (which would probably be pretty quick with a regulator trying to dump that much pressure).

Or plumb the front tank to feed directly into the rear and use the front fuel pump as a transfer pump.

OK, I know, these are ideas. But it's only short-term until the EFI comes anyway, right?