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Big Blue's Transformation


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I think Tim's oil filter adapter is a non-starter on Big Blue. I'm happy he has the oil/air cooler rather than the oil/water cooler like Huck's engine has, so will go back stock with it - including the stock hose routing to clear the radiator support.

And, speaking of the radiator support, that reminds me. The radiator support Jonathan brought me almost two years ago has had its small cracks welded up and it has then been blasted and painted with an epoxy primer and then a chassis black top coat. It'll go back to replace the one that's on there now, which was butchered to allow routing the hoses in a bizarre way so they could get them to the cooler which was mounted in the wrong spot, which then caused them to butcher the back of the grille to get clearance. :nabble_smiley_cry:

But that grille may go back on - after being painted black. I think I like the blacked-out look, and I might as well paint the hacked-up grille to find out for sure.

A week or so ago I refrained from making a comment about what those crackers did to Vern.

But if you keep un-#@©£!π* what they did to him he'll be a virgin by the time you're done with Big Blue.

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A week or so ago I refrained from making a comment about what those crackers did to Vern.

But if you keep un-#@©£!π* what they did to him he'll be a virgin by the time you're done with Big Blue.

It is easy to see why Vern wanted to get out from under Big Blue. And imagine what his wife was thinking! They'd sunk countless thousands of dollars into what appeared to be a bottomless pit. So when the engine, that took 4 years to have built and which leaked oil profusely when "done", hydro-locked that was the last straw.

And what they probably didn't know is that the bypassed safety system on the fuel system, coupled with the bypassed resistor to the fuel pump, were a major problem. The oil leaks from the engine's main seals might have been caused by the gas in the oil, but the leak at the rear of the intake wasn't. The exhaust system was touching a tire occasionally and against a spring at all times, plus the welds are so porous that they leak exhaust from the front to the back. The headers are against the frame. The fuel system was dangerously close to the header. The crossmember, radiator support, and grille were all butchered.

I think I'd have bailed long before they did. But underneath there are good bones. So with some work and more money I think BB will be one stout and capable truck that will ride decently and can go 'most anywhere. :nabble_smiley_happy:

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It is easy to see why Vern wanted to get out from under Big Blue. And imagine what his wife was thinking! They'd sunk countless thousands of dollars into what appeared to be a bottomless pit. So when the engine, that took 4 years to have built and which leaked oil profusely when "done", hydro-locked that was the last straw.

And what they probably didn't know is that the bypassed safety system on the fuel system, coupled with the bypassed resistor to the fuel pump, were a major problem. The oil leaks from the engine's main seals might have been caused by the gas in the oil, but the leak at the rear of the intake wasn't. The exhaust system was touching a tire occasionally and against a spring at all times, plus the welds are so porous that they leak exhaust from the front to the back. The headers are against the frame. The fuel system was dangerously close to the header. The crossmember, radiator support, and grille were all butchered.

I think I'd have bailed long before they did. But underneath there are good bones. So with some work and more money I think BB will be one stout and capable truck that will ride decently and can go 'most anywhere. :nabble_smiley_happy:

Oh, I'm sure you will do it right.

I see this in my work every day.

It takes FAR longer to undo what has been done than to have done it right in the first place.

"There's never time to do it right, but there's always time to do it twice" was a motto in my union days.

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Oh, I'm sure you will do it right.

I see this in my work every day.

It takes FAR longer to undo what has been done than to have done it right in the first place.

"There's never time to do it right, but there's always time to do it twice" was a motto in my union days.

I hope I do it "right".

And now I have all of the parts with which to do the brakes as today the last two pistons and the rotors came in. So tomorrow I hope to powder coat the hubs and then put them together with the new rotors by pressing in the studs.

In addition I hope to assemble the calipers. But that raises a question: do I use brake fluid to lube the pistons and seals? Or is there a brake-fluid-soluble grease that should be used? I get mixed results from all the Googling I've done.

Anyway, here's one new and one old rotor:

New_and_Old_Rotors.thumb.jpg.e08438d9edcc1c2037a678480dae6eb5.jpg

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I hope I do it "right".

And now I have all of the parts with which to do the brakes as today the last two pistons and the rotors came in. So tomorrow I hope to powder coat the hubs and then put them together with the new rotors by pressing in the studs.

In addition I hope to assemble the calipers. But that raises a question: do I use brake fluid to lube the pistons and seals? Or is there a brake-fluid-soluble grease that should be used? I get mixed results from all the Googling I've done.

Anyway, here's one new and one old rotor:

I've always just used brake fluid.

Can't go wrong.

Like Marge the Palmolive lady said "You're soaking in it"

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Ok, that's what I'll do. Hopefully tomorrow. :nabble_anim_jump:

And, I did use brake fluid today to assemble the calipers. But I was suprised how much force it took to put the pistons in. Not a huge amount, but just more than I could do by hand. So I used a c-clamp and pushed them in.

I also discovered the the boots shouldn't be lubed with brake fluid when installing them. That's 'cause the first one I installed uninstalled itself. So I had to clean it with alcohol and re-install it. :nabble_smiley_sad:

Then I tried to install the pads along with the clips into the calipers. But I didn't get it figured out, so I guess I'll wait until it is time to install them on the truck.

Anyway, here's what they look like. Like the Ford Blue pads? :nabble_smiley_wink:

Calipers_Done.thumb.jpg.4a931852e95465042cc960d0e9c93eb9.jpg

And, I got the hubs powder coated and then mated with the rotors. Oddly enough, one rotor is painted black in some areas and the other isn't, but both are the same brand, Rabestos, and same model number.

Hubs_and_Rotors_Done.thumb.jpg.044b353fc959a40071b6cbcf0f944378.jpg

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And, I did use brake fluid today to assemble the calipers. But I was suprised how much force it took to put the pistons in. Not a huge amount, but just more than I could do by hand. So I used a c-clamp and pushed them in.

I also discovered the the boots shouldn't be lubed with brake fluid when installing them. That's 'cause the first one I installed uninstalled itself. So I had to clean it with alcohol and re-install it. :nabble_smiley_sad:

Then I tried to install the pads along with the clips into the calipers. But I didn't get it figured out, so I guess I'll wait until it is time to install them on the truck.

Anyway, here's what they look like. Like the Ford Blue pads? :nabble_smiley_wink:

And, I got the hubs powder coated and then mated with the rotors. Oddly enough, one rotor is painted black in some areas and the other isn't, but both are the same brand, Rabestos, and same model number.

I don't think the boots need to be lubed at all. In fact I don't know that they would be resistant to glycol.

They might swell.

They certainly should never be in contact with it under proper operating conditions.

The Raybestos rotors are probably all jobbed out, and as long as they meet spec....

Besides, you bought them from Rockauto, didn't you?

So that's going to be orphaned parts from any of the last four decades.

Looking good though!

Things are coming together for Big Blue.

Your planning and attention to detail really shows. :nabble_smiley_good:

 

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I don't think the boots need to be lubed at all. In fact I don't know that they would be resistant to glycol.

They might swell.

They certainly should never be in contact with it under proper operating conditions.

The Raybestos rotors are probably all jobbed out, and as long as they meet spec....

Besides, you bought them from Rockauto, didn't you?

So that's going to be orphaned parts from any of the last four decades.

Looking good though!

Things are coming together for Big Blue.

Your planning and attention to detail really shows. :nabble_smiley_good:

Good points.

And thanks. I want it to be "right", and I think that takes planning. Don't have much time with the g-twins here, but when I do get time it is nice to see things come together.

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Good points.

And thanks. I want it to be "right", and I think that takes planning. Don't have much time with the g-twins here, but when I do get time it is nice to see things come together.

They'll only be this age once.

Enjoy your time with them. (even if it can be frustrating when they don't listen)

I DO like the pads.

It's like the little bit of bling that just sets something apart.

(a woman whose shoes perfectly match her dress or the way the right band can make or break a watch)

**I wanted to add, the calipers came out great! I'm glad you decided to rebuild them yourself. :nabble_smiley_cool:

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