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Big Blue's Transformation


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Yes, but the adapter on Huck's block is the "grenade" one with the oil to water cooler. Huck and Big Blue should have a male/female bushing in the block that the hollow bolt from the adapter screws into.

What about the one from the '96 450?

BTW that bushing has a C8 prefix so it goes WAY back to shoehorning 429's into cars that were never made for them (like the Mustang)

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What about the one from the '96 450?

BTW that bushing has a C8 prefix so it goes WAY back to shoehorning 429's into cars that were never made for them (like the Mustang)

That would also have the "grenade". 1988-early 1990 models used an oil to air cooler like I put on Darth, the adapter for it is cast aluminum and has a bypass valve and threaded ports for the oil lines.

All 1983-1997 F series with a 460 have some adapter for the filter, not just 4WD, remember Darth is 2WD and the dually was not available in a 4WD except as a cab and chassis in 1986.

Here is the adapter for the remote oil cooler, small piece at bottom is part of the AC hose set.

IMGP0805.jpg.7d124ac90b54078e4dbd48f19f121d7e.jpg

Here it is seen from the top.

IMG_1641.thumb.jpg.a97c19030eb9d9dc0412cad2601a17f7.jpg

Here are some pictures of the "grenade" adapter.

DSCN1297.thumb.jpg.84d425c73a29e9e937e209015dd559db.jpg

DSCN1304.thumb.jpg.5a70721d95d232eafeb06d07e3341926.jpg

DSCN1305.thumb.jpg.ea2dffc0ef280299a01da1d508caef06.jpg

Here is the block bushing.

DSCN1243.thumb.jpg.610dc9864af801d749d89d08d4bdfedd.jpg

 

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Well, at 5.21 x 3.6" the 51268R doesn't seem bigger that the standard filter.

The 1 1/8-16 thread might allow additional flow, but that adapts to the stock passage..... so?

But the 'R' is "racing only" according to Wix, since it doesn't have a drainback or bypass valve.

Maybe fine for a Trackboss but doesn't seem like an option for a vehicle you actually drive.

http://www.wixfilters.com/Lookup/PartDetails.aspx?Part=15054

Jim - The intent wasn't to use the R filter. Here's what Tim's page says:

The purpose to use this adapter is to use the Wix 51268 oil filter. You will see in the documents here, the the 51268 has almost the same flow as the 51515R, and almost the same filtering as the 51515. So really the purpose to choose to use this adapter is you can have the filtering quality and flow ability

And the spec's on the 51268 are here.

But, with Bill's pic of the male/female adapter then Tim's adapter isn't going to work. :nabble_smiley_cry:

DSCN1243.thumb.jpg.e3bf598a207278349391ab04716ad797.jpg

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Jim - The intent wasn't to use the R filter. Here's what Tim's page says:

The purpose to use this adapter is to use the Wix 51268 oil filter. You will see in the documents here, the the 51268 has almost the same flow as the 51515R, and almost the same filtering as the 51515. So really the purpose to choose to use this adapter is you can have the filtering quality and flow ability

And the spec's on the 51268 are here.

But, with Bill's pic of the male/female adapter then Tim's adapter isn't going to work. :nabble_smiley_cry:

Well, it would if you wanted to cut a big chunk out of the front cross member so the filter could stick straight out the side of the block! :nabble_anim_blbl: :nabble_anim_crazy:

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Jim - The intent wasn't to use the R filter. Here's what Tim's page says:

The purpose to use this adapter is to use the Wix 51268 oil filter. You will see in the documents here, the the 51268 has almost the same flow as the 51515R, and almost the same filtering as the 51515. So really the purpose to choose to use this adapter is you can have the filtering quality and flow ability

And the spec's on the 51268 are here.

But, with Bill's pic of the male/female adapter then Tim's adapter isn't going to work. :nabble_smiley_cry:

If you remove that fitting, Tim's adapter might fit in place of it, can you get the thread size on both ends of his adapter and then remove the Ford adapter from Huck's block and check the thread size on it? This would tell you if it would work, however, as cramped as that area is on a 460, I am not sure I would want to do a filter change on it.

Remember, the 351M/400 block is (a) shorter than a 429/460 and (b) narrower at the pan flange area. This allows a 351M/400 to use a standard FL1A when installed in a Bullnose frame, the preceding frames had the engine sitting higher over the crossmember and used front sump pans on all except 4WD models.

This is why the 460 in a Bullnose requires either a very short filter or some method of relocation, either by an angled adapter or actual remote location.

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If you remove that fitting, Tim's adapter might fit in place of it, can you get the thread size on both ends of his adapter and then remove the Ford adapter from Huck's block and check the thread size on it? This would tell you if it would work, however, as cramped as that area is on a 460, I am not sure I would want to do a filter change on it.

Remember, the 351M/400 block is (a) shorter than a 429/460 and (b) narrower at the pan flange area. This allows a 351M/400 to use a standard FL1A when installed in a Bullnose frame, the preceding frames had the engine sitting higher over the crossmember and used front sump pans on all except 4WD models.

This is why the 460 in a Bullnose requires either a very short filter or some method of relocation, either by an angled adapter or actual remote location.

What would be the advantage of using Tim's adapter? Isn't it better because it takes the other filter? And it doesn't have internal threads like the one for the 460, so how would the 460 piece fit on?

I think I've lost something here. :nabble_anim_confused:

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What would be the advantage of using Tim's adapter? Isn't it better because it takes the other filter? And it doesn't have internal threads like the one for the 460, so how would the 460 piece fit on?

I think I've lost something here. :nabble_anim_confused:

I don't have a car or early 385 series block and filter adapter to look at, but they had a screw in filter adapter that had an internal hex like Tim's adapter. Maybe Steve83 or someone else who has an earlier 460 truck or a car with a 429/460 has some pictures of it and the thread size it uses. If it will come out, I can remove the one from the new engine and see what the inside end looks like. Or maybe the one on huck's block will come out.

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If you remove that fitting, Tim's adapter might fit in place of it, can you get the thread size on both ends of his adapter and then remove the Ford adapter from Huck's block and check the thread size on it? This would tell you if it would work, however, as cramped as that area is on a 460, I am not sure I would want to do a filter change on it.

Remember, the 351M/400 block is (a) shorter than a 429/460 and (b) narrower at the pan flange area. This allows a 351M/400 to use a standard FL1A when installed in a Bullnose frame, the preceding frames had the engine sitting higher over the crossmember and used front sump pans on all except 4WD models.

This is why the 460 in a Bullnose requires either a very short filter or some method of relocation, either by an angled adapter or actual remote location.

Angled adapter AND a dented cross member....

The 460 block is threaded 1 1/16-12.

But how much more flow are you really going to get if it has to go though the adapter and banjo bolt?

I think it might work if the filter sealed directly to the block.

Tim's a little high if he thinks 20 gpm= 'almost' 30 gpm......

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Angled adapter AND a dented cross member....

The 460 block is threaded 1 1/16-12.

But how much more flow are you really going to get if it has to go though the adapter and banjo bolt?

I think it might work if the filter sealed directly to the block.

Tim's a little high if he thinks 20 gpm= 'almost' 30 gpm......

I think Tim's oil filter adapter is a non-starter on Big Blue. I'm happy he has the oil/air cooler rather than the oil/water cooler like Huck's engine has, so will go back stock with it - including the stock hose routing to clear the radiator support.

And, speaking of the radiator support, that reminds me. The radiator support Jonathan brought me almost two years ago has had its small cracks welded up and it has then been blasted and painted with an epoxy primer and then a chassis black top coat. It'll go back to replace the one that's on there now, which was butchered to allow routing the hoses in a bizarre way so they could get them to the cooler which was mounted in the wrong spot, which then caused them to butcher the back of the grille to get clearance. :nabble_smiley_cry:

But that grille may go back on - after being painted black. I think I like the blacked-out look, and I might as well paint the hacked-up grille to find out for sure.

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