Big Blue's Transformation

[Gary Lewis]

Can't believe he managed to do that with a straight face...

LOL! He certainly had fun with that one. I counted 15 extraneous instances of the use of the word "bear" or "bare", as the case may be, in that, and I'm sure I missed some.

Now, how would you like to be behind that Jeep when he starts it up? Jeepers!

[ArdWrknTrk]

LOL! He certainly had fun with that one. I counted 15 extraneous instances of the use of the word "bear" or "bare", as the case may be, in that, and I'm sure I missed some.

Now, how would you like to be behind that Jeep when he starts it up? Jeepers!

I think herring are greasy enough already.

Thanks.

I'd rather be slapped with a mackerel (I think)

[Gary Lewis]

I think herring are greasy enough already.

Thanks.

I'd rather be slapped with a mackerel (I think)

Jim - I think it was a red herring. Maybe they aren't as bad.

And while I have you, could you post a pic of one of your black thresholds in place, please? Is the tab that goes down into the channel in the front or the back?

Now for what I got done today. Not nearly as much as I'd hoped to do. But I did get the t-case shifter installed. I put the original one from Big Blue back in, but then realized it was very sloppy. So I pulled out the others I have and discovered that they have plastic bushings that Big Blue's didn't have but should have. So I put a pair in and that firmed it up nicely.

Then I discovered what I'd expected to find - the t-case linkage was too long. (You would think that since the ZF5 is longer than a T-19 the linkage would be too short, but that's not the case.) So I made an adjustable one by cutting this one in two and welding a 1/2" bolt to one side and a matching nut on the other. Add another nut to lock it and you have a linkage that is adjustable from 7 1/4" to 8 1/4".

And, here it is installed. It fit nicely at 7 5/8", and a bit of heat got the bushings to go on fairly nicely.

That allowed me to put the t-case boot on, and then I turned to the transmission shift boot - and got stuck. The inner boot lines up with the holes in the transmission cover nicely by itself, but keeping it there when you bring the top boot down is the trick - and I've not mastered it.

At one point I thought I'd glue it down, but it needs the top boot's stiffness to get down against the floor pan all the way around. So that's not going to work. I'm thinking that using two pieces of stiff wire to get two corners lined up and then put the screws in the other two might do it.

Thoughts and ideas, please.

[Sac79]

And while I have you, could you post a pic of one of your black thresholds in place, please? Is the tab that goes down into the channel in the front or the back?

You'll find they only go on one way when you have the footwell trim in place... (tab at the back)

I did wonder the same thing as I was putting mine together.

[86 12 Brutus]

I think herring are greasy enough already.

Thanks.

I'd rather be slapped with a mackerel (I think)

Gary Lookin good, lookin real good. What are you going to do for the speaker grill's?

[Gary Lewis]

Gary Lookin good, lookin real good. What are you going to do for the speaker grill's?

Rob - Thanks. Good to know. But my problem is that I would like to put the thresholds down before I put the corner trim and kick panels in. And I've filled the holes, although that doesn't matter much since the metal thresholds have the holes in different places than the later plastic ones. So I'm not sure where to put them. Perhaps I need to put the trim panels in just long enough to position the thresholds.

George - Thanks! I will ultimately replace the door panels and won't put the speakers in the "new" ones. I didn't put them there, I suspect did. And, personally, it is a silly place to put speakers. As you know, having tweeters firing into your hip doesn't work very well.

As for the shifter boot, I think I know how to get everything aligned. I'll put stiff wire through two corner holes, which will align the inner boot and then the outer boot. And then I'll put screws in the other two corners, remove the wires one at a time and replace them with screws.

[86 12 Brutus]

Rob - Thanks. Good to know. But my problem is that I would like to put the thresholds down before I put the corner trim and kick panels in. And I've filled the holes, although that doesn't matter much since the metal thresholds have the holes in different places than the later plastic ones. So I'm not sure where to put them. Perhaps I need to put the trim panels in just long enough to position the thresholds.

George - Thanks! I will ultimately replace the door panels and won't put the speakers in the "new" ones. I didn't put them there, I suspect did. And, personally, it is a silly place to put speakers. As you know, having tweeters firing into your hip doesn't work very well.

As for the shifter boot, I think I know how to get everything aligned. I'll put stiff wire through two corner holes, which will align the inner boot and then the outer boot. And then I'll put screws in the other two corners, remove the wires one at a time and replace them with screws.

Ok, i was wondering, the speaker is firing right into the door arm rest

[Gary Lewis]

Ok, i was wondering, the speaker is firing right into the door arm rest

Actually, it is mounted "in" the arm rest's bump-out, and is below the arm rest itself. I don't have a pic of exactly where the speaker hits with the door closed, but in this pic you can kind of see that with the door closed it either fires into the seat or at the very least into your hip.

But, I do see the threshold in the pic, so that kind of helps me.

[Gary Lewis]

Actually, it is mounted "in" the arm rest's bump-out, and is below the arm rest itself. I don't have a pic of exactly where the speaker hits with the door closed, but in this pic you can kind of see that with the door closed it either fires into the seat or at the very least into your hip.

But, I do see the threshold in the pic, so that kind of helps me.

Got several things done today. But first, what is the best way to secure the transfer case shift knob on the splined shifter in a way that I can still get it off if I need to do so?

Ok, with that question out of the way let's move on to the transmission's shift boot. Yesterday I tried plans A & B, and today I tried C - the stiff wire. And none of them worked.

So I came up with Plan D - longer screws to align things. But that didn't work as the screw holes in the upper shift boot were just the right size to make the screws thread through it and it wouldn't slip down on the screws, regardless of how long they were. So I drilled out the holes and then the longer screws aligned it. Done!

However, there are several other things in that pic to point out. First, there's new weatherstripping for the doors. (Rob, there are two 8 1/2" pieces of extra weatherstripping. Do you want both?) Second, the thresholds are on. And third, I put the block-off plates back in the kick panel areas.

The weatherstripping and kick panel plates are so the truck can sit out if needed and not have water coming into the cab. And the thresholds were installed so the carpet will stay in place.

And to finish up I finished the fresh air feed to the PVC system, as you can see in the pic. But, you can also see that there's no reason that I can put the spacer Bill suggested between the carb and the air cleaner. But, then I'll have to re-do the fresh air hose and it'll be a bit short. No prob, I have more.

So, tomorrow it is time to install the replacement FDM.

[salans7]

Got several things done today. But first, what is the best way to secure the transfer case shift knob on the splined shifter in a way that I can still get it off if I need to do so?

Ok, with that question out of the way let's move on to the transmission's shift boot. Yesterday I tried plans A & B, and today I tried C - the stiff wire. And none of them worked.

So I came up with Plan D - longer screws to align things. But that didn't work as the screw holes in the upper shift boot were just the right size to make the screws thread through it and it wouldn't slip down on the screws, regardless of how long they were. So I drilled out the holes and then the longer screws aligned it. Done!

However, there are several other things in that pic to point out. First, there's new weatherstripping for the doors. (Rob, there are two 8 1/2" pieces of extra weatherstripping. Do you want both?) Second, the thresholds are on. And third, I put the block-off plates back in the kick panel areas.

The weatherstripping and kick panel plates are so the truck can sit out if needed and not have water coming into the cab. And the thresholds were installed so the carpet will stay in place.

And to finish up I finished the fresh air feed to the PVC system, as you can see in the pic. But, you can also see that there's no reason that I can put the spacer Bill suggested between the carb and the air cleaner. But, then I'll have to re-do the fresh air hose and it'll be a bit short. No prob, I have more.

So, tomorrow it is time to install the replacement FDM.

What are your opinions on the differences in the shift levers? I'm gonna end up with two different shift knobs on mine and I know it's gonna bug me.

As for the shift knob, blue loctite? Don't gorille glue it like the transfer case knob on my BW1356. Although for what it's worth, it wasn't that hard to remove. Neither were the gorilla glued emblems from my fenders, although I'm now missing some paint there.