ArdWrknTrk Posted August 31, 2020 Share Posted August 31, 2020 As for what I did today, I got about half of the insulation on. Uh, I think you are applying the mass damping over the insulation (as a decoupler)... I mean, this is the right way to do it, but you have your terminology reversed... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted August 31, 2020 Author Share Posted August 31, 2020 As for what I did today, I got about half of the insulation on. Uh, I think you are applying the mass damping over the insulation (as a decoupler)... I mean, this is the right way to do it, but you have your terminology reversed... Jim - I'm not sure I follow. But I think we are together. I put the sound deadener down first, then a layer of closed cell foam "Noico RED 150 mil 36 sqft Сar Sound Insulation, Heat and Cool Liner" on top of it. Then I plan to put the mass backed ACC carpet on top of that. So the foam will act as both an insulation and a decoupler. Is that what you meant? Or am I being obtuse? As for the thickness under the pedal, you have a good point. But at this point it is down. So I may have to do what I've wondered about doing - lengthening the pedal's arm. I've not checked so I don't know how far I can go and still keep the cable happy, but I've thought that cutting the round part of the arm and adding a piece of tubing to lengthen it would work. Thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1986F150Six Posted August 31, 2020 Share Posted August 31, 2020 Bill - I missed your post. And I know the spacer you are talking about. Think I had one on a Chevy van. That might be an option. Thanks. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Air-Cleaner-Riser-Carb-Spacer-Quadrajet-Chevy-GMC-67-72-73-87-88-89-90-91-92-B/283557262771?hash=item42055475b3:g:vs0AAOSw2EZdNnTo https://www.ebay.com/itm/Air-Cleaner-Riser-Carb-Spacer-Quadrajet-Chevy-GMC-67-72-73-87-88-89-90-91-92/133478404727?hash=item1f13eed277:g:WaEAAOSwV2Nasagy https://www.ebay.com/itm/Air-Cleaner-Riser-Carb-Spacer-Quadrajet-Chevy-GMC-67-72-73-87-88-89-90-91-92-B/383563190679?hash=item594e25d197:g:6W0AAOSwEm1ezWcx https://www.ebay.com/itm/Quadra-jet-Chevy-GMC-Air-Cleaner-Riser-Carb-Spacer-Free-Shipping/274470826856?hash=item3fe7bc7368:g:2EcAAOSwvLJfQ~Ya Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted August 31, 2020 Share Posted August 31, 2020 Jim - I'm not sure I follow. But I think we are together. I put the sound deadener down first, then a layer of closed cell foam "Noico RED 150 mil 36 sqft Сar Sound Insulation, Heat and Cool Liner" on top of it. Then I plan to put the mass backed ACC carpet on top of that. So the foam will act as both an insulation and a decoupler. Is that what you meant? Or am I being obtuse? As for the thickness under the pedal, you have a good point. But at this point it is down. So I may have to do what I've wondered about doing - lengthening the pedal's arm. I've not checked so I don't know how far I can go and still keep the cable happy, but I've thought that cutting the round part of the arm and adding a piece of tubing to lengthen it would work. Thoughts? I'd probably just put a spacer beneath the pedal mount. You know those three screws are way long enough for that. Maybe I'm missing it. Insulation has foil so the reflective surface is effective. Gluing something directly to it is just going to negate that quality. My mass damped insulation has the thick,weighted, vinyl suspended between two layers of foam and covered with foil. But it's at least 1/2" thick. If you're adding foam on top of that and then adding more mass backed carpet on top of that I can't see the point, except the mistaken American attitude that if X is good, MOAR! is better. Honestly I think you've simply created a padded cell Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted August 31, 2020 Share Posted August 31, 2020 I'd probably just put a spacer beneath the pedal mount. You know those three screws are way long enough for that. Maybe I'm missing it. Insulation has foil so the reflective surface is effective. Gluing something directly to it is just going to negate that quality. My mass damped insulation has the thick,weighted, vinyl suspended between two layers of foam and covered with foil. But it's at least 1/2" thick. If you're adding foam on top of that and then adding more mass backed carpet on top of that I can't see the point, except the mistaken American attitude that if X is good, MOAR! is better. Honestly I think you've simply created a padded cell Jim, by the time BB is finished he may need a padded cell Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted August 31, 2020 Share Posted August 31, 2020 Jim, by the time BB is finished he may need a padded cell Soon, my pretty..... soon.... Gary's already taken absurd overkill to a new level. But it's his truck, and that seems just his character. Ours is not to wonder WHY? Ours is just to watch, and die. I would really like to see BB completed and roadworthy for the virtual GTG. Gary seems on target for that! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted August 31, 2020 Author Share Posted August 31, 2020 Soon, my pretty..... soon.... Gary's already taken absurd overkill to a new level. But it's his truck, and that seems just his character. Ours is not to wonder WHY? Ours is just to watch, and die. I would really like to see BB completed and roadworthy for the virtual GTG. Gary seems on target for that! BB's never going to be "finished". I'm sure of that. As for taking "absurd overkill to a new level", I'm not sure that's the case. I've seen lots of other people do the things I'm doing. But I may be doing all of them in one truck. As for what I did today to BB, I got the insulation in: Then I laid the carpet in, and it fits! But, I don't like the gray foam showing in the back so would like to put a piece of carpet there, like is used on the Bricknose trucks. Jim provided a pic of his in another thread, but here's the back wall and corner trim on Big Blue. Note how the trim is needing painted. Later! Now it is time to install the shifter boots. So I started with the ZF. The inner boot was bad, as shown below: So I installed a new one, as shown below. However, it wasn't as easy as it sounds. There's a snap ring that is difficult to get out, but even more difficult to get in. ZF's manual says to just put it in w/a screwdriver. It is NOT easy, and I tried for 30 minutes. But, if you push the boot through the collar, install the ring in the boot, and then pull the boot back into the collar it only takes a minute. But, note that there are actually three boots. Courtesy of David, I got a ZF replacement boot that has both an inner and an outer. Tomorrow I'll pull the carpet back out and drill the holes to install that boot pair. And I'll install the t-case shifter and set that boot up for installation as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted August 31, 2020 Share Posted August 31, 2020 BB's never going to be "finished". I'm sure of that. As for taking "absurd overkill to a new level", I'm not sure that's the case. I've seen lots of other people do the things I'm doing. But I may be doing all of them in one truck. As for what I did today to BB, I got the insulation in: Then I laid the carpet in, and it fits! But, I don't like the gray foam showing in the back so would like to put a piece of carpet there, like is used on the Bricknose trucks. Jim provided a pic of his in another thread, but here's the back wall and corner trim on Big Blue. Note how the trim is needing painted. Later! Now it is time to install the shifter boots. So I started with the ZF. The inner boot was bad, as shown below: So I installed a new one, as shown below. However, it wasn't as easy as it sounds. There's a snap ring that is difficult to get out, but even more difficult to get in. ZF's manual says to just put it in w/a screwdriver. It is NOT easy, and I tried for 30 minutes. But, if you push the boot through the collar, install the ring in the boot, and then pull the boot back into the collar it only takes a minute. But, note that there are actually three boots. Courtesy of David, I got a ZF replacement boot that has both an inner and an outer. Tomorrow I'll pull the carpet back out and drill the holes to install that boot pair. And I'll install the t-case shifter and set that boot up for installation as well. As long as he's 'finished' enough to drive to the muffler shop we will ALL be cheering you on! Looks great, Gary! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted August 31, 2020 Author Share Posted August 31, 2020 As long as he's 'finished' enough to drive to the muffler shop we will ALL be cheering you on! Looks great, Gary! I doubt the muffler shop will worry about the lack of the plastic trim, nor the rear "curtain". Here's kinda my thinking for the order: Shift levers installed and shift boots put in place, followed by the carpet being laid back in and the thresholds installed - ready for the seat when the time comes Fuel: Install the replacement FDM in the front tank and check its operation Lubes: Add the lube to the t-case, transmission, and power steering/hydroboost system and then grease the ball joints, tie rods, etc Engine: Pull the power steering/air conditioning belt, check the plug wires, check for TDC vs #1, and install the fresh air hose for the PCV system Roll Out: Roll the thing out of the shop, install the seat, and fire it up!!!!! After that it needs to go to the alignment shop before it goes to the muffler shop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted August 31, 2020 Share Posted August 31, 2020 I doubt the muffler shop will worry about the lack of the plastic trim, nor the rear "curtain". Here's kinda my thinking for the order: Shift levers installed and shift boots put in place, followed by the carpet being laid back in and the thresholds installed - ready for the seat when the time comes Fuel: Install the replacement FDM in the front tank and check its operation Lubes: Add the lube to the t-case, transmission, and power steering/hydroboost system and then grease the ball joints, tie rods, etc Engine: Pull the power steering/air conditioning belt, check the plug wires, check for TDC vs #1, and install the fresh air hose for the PCV system Roll Out: Roll the thing out of the shop, install the seat, and fire it up!!!!! After that it needs to go to the alignment shop before it goes to the muffler shop. Why not both?? 🙅 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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