Big Blue's Transformation

[Gary Lewis]

There are three problems: it is hitting the tube coming off the A/C compressor; it is laying on the oil filler cap; and it is hitting the insulator for the spark plug wires. So, if I do make a dual-snorkel I will probably have to reduce the "droop", take the hot air inlet off, and possibly bring it off "a bit earlier on the clock". Or, change the angle. However, if I could bend that tube up just a bit it would make things easier. Think I can do that?

We've all seen evidence that you can do whatever you decide to do... And I vote for dual snorkels, once you have BB running though. Wouldn't want anything to delay the project now.

Jim - I won't "entirely discount" your suggestion on the spray adhesive. But I think I'll wait to use it on the roof and inside the doors as the rest of the sound deadening mats will be under carpet and, therefore, held down. However, see the bit about the rusted passenger's floor in a bit...

Rob - Yes, the dual-snorkel air cleaner would look great on there, but it'll have to wait to later so I can get this beast on the road.

However, I did do a bit of air cleaner work today. I added a snorkel to the HO base shown previously and then mounted that on the carb. Two things to point out in this pic showing the air cleaner: First, that I still have to hook up the fresh air hose for the PVC system, but can't until the 90 degree hose barb comes in. Second, I've lost the filler plug to the coolant expansion tank. Anyone have a spare or an idea where to get one?

Another thing I did today was to use Bill's cooling system filling process and got the system FULL! But my process was to pull the hose off the shutoff valve instead of the heater core. That let me turn the valve and the hose up a bit and I was able to see the coolant coming up in the valve as I added it to the hose. Worked a treat! Thanks, Bill.

And now for a less-happy note. The rust on the passenger's floor is worse than I thought. Not BAD, but not just surface rust. There are 5 "pin holes", as you'll see in the pics below, as well as the screw holes for the threshold that need to be repaired. So the question becomes how best to do that.

I'm thinking that I'll turn the welder WAY down and see if I can't weld the holes shut. Yes, I know that the floor is thin to start with, and even thinner where it has rusted, but I think I can do it. On the other hand, perhaps epoxy? Thoughts?

Here's a shot of the driver's side before I started working on it. The screw heads were so rusty I couldn't back the screws out and I had to drill them out. But the floor is in pretty good shape with essentially no rust.

And here's the passenger's side before I started.

As you can see, both of the covers were pretty rusty. And it doesn't look like they were ever properly sealed at the factory. So I media-blasted them and will POR-15 them when I paint the other things with it. They aren't pretty, but they'll work fine.

And now for the passenger's floor. This shot is after a lot of wire brushing and sanding. I circled the 5 holes as I doubt you could see them otherwise. But they aren't big at all, so I'm hoping that they'll be easy to seal.

However, I don't think epoxy is the way to seal the screw holes for the threshold. Here's one up close and you can see the rust damage:

So, as I think about it, I believe the thing to do is to see if I can weld one of the small pinholes. Then do the others, and then turn to the screw holes for the threshold. Unless y'all convince me otherwise, that's the plan for tomorrow.

And if that goes well I think I need to inspect the bottom side of the floor, which may mean I need to pull the heat shield that goes above the cat - which I don't have. At the very least the welds need to be protected, and there may be rust under there as well.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Jim - I won't "entirely discount" your suggestion on the spray adhesive. But I think I'll wait to use it on the roof and inside the doors as the rest of the sound deadening mats will be under carpet and, therefore, held down. However, see the bit about the rusted passenger's floor in a bit...

Rob - Yes, the dual-snorkel air cleaner would look great on there, but it'll have to wait to later so I can get this beast on the road.

However, I did do a bit of air cleaner work today. I added a snorkel to the HO base shown previously and then mounted that on the carb. Two things to point out in this pic showing the air cleaner: First, that I still have to hook up the fresh air hose for the PVC system, but can't until the 90 degree hose barb comes in. Second, I've lost the filler plug to the coolant expansion tank. Anyone have a spare or an idea where to get one?

Another thing I did today was to use Bill's cooling system filling process and got the system FULL! But my process was to pull the hose off the shutoff valve instead of the heater core. That let me turn the valve and the hose up a bit and I was able to see the coolant coming up in the valve as I added it to the hose. Worked a treat! Thanks, Bill.

And now for a less-happy note. The rust on the passenger's floor is worse than I thought. Not BAD, but not just surface rust. There are 5 "pin holes", as you'll see in the pics below, as well as the screw holes for the threshold that need to be repaired. So the question becomes how best to do that.

I'm thinking that I'll turn the welder WAY down and see if I can't weld the holes shut. Yes, I know that the floor is thin to start with, and even thinner where it has rusted, but I think I can do it. On the other hand, perhaps epoxy? Thoughts?

Here's a shot of the driver's side before I started working on it. The screw heads were so rusty I couldn't back the screws out and I had to drill them out. But the floor is in pretty good shape with essentially no rust.

And here's the passenger's side before I started.

As you can see, both of the covers were pretty rusty. And it doesn't look like they were ever properly sealed at the factory. So I media-blasted them and will POR-15 them when I paint the other things with it. They aren't pretty, but they'll work fine.

And now for the passenger's floor. This shot is after a lot of wire brushing and sanding. I circled the 5 holes as I doubt you could see them otherwise. But they aren't big at all, so I'm hoping that they'll be easy to seal.

However, I don't think epoxy is the way to seal the screw holes for the threshold. Here's one up close and you can see the rust damage:

So, as I think about it, I believe the thing to do is to see if I can weld one of the small pinholes. Then do the others, and then turn to the screw holes for the threshold. Unless y'all convince me otherwise, that's the plan for tomorrow.

And if that goes well I think I need to inspect the bottom side of the floor, which may mean I need to pull the heat shield that goes above the cat - which I don't have. At the very least the welds need to be protected, and there may be rust under there as well.

Would you consider brazing them shut Gary?

You don't have to worry about burning through the floor, and you're sure it won't rust again.

Just another of my ideas to save labor and chances...

[Gary Lewis]

Would you consider brazing them shut Gary?

You don't have to worry about burning through the floor, and you're sure it won't rust again.

Just another of my ideas to save labor and chances...

Jim - I'd thought about that, but wasn't sure how well it would work. I'd have to get it hotter than welding, but I'm going to paint it anyway so that's not a problem. I think I'll give it a try. Thanks.

[Gary Lewis]

Jim - I'd thought about that, but wasn't sure how well it would work. I'd have to get it hotter than welding, but I'm going to paint it anyway so that's not a problem. I think I'll give it a try. Thanks.

There's actually another advantage to brazing over welding. If I weld the screw holes shut the bead would be hard to drill. Not so brazing.

[Sac79]

Jim - I won't "entirely discount" your suggestion on the spray adhesive. But I think I'll wait to use it on the roof and inside the doors as the rest of the sound deadening mats will be under carpet and, therefore, held down. However, see the bit about the rusted passenger's floor in a bit...

Rob - Yes, the dual-snorkel air cleaner would look great on there, but it'll have to wait to later so I can get this beast on the road.

However, I did do a bit of air cleaner work today. I added a snorkel to the HO base shown previously and then mounted that on the carb. Two things to point out in this pic showing the air cleaner: First, that I still have to hook up the fresh air hose for the PVC system, but can't until the 90 degree hose barb comes in. Second, I've lost the filler plug to the coolant expansion tank. Anyone have a spare or an idea where to get one?

Another thing I did today was to use Bill's cooling system filling process and got the system FULL! But my process was to pull the hose off the shutoff valve instead of the heater core. That let me turn the valve and the hose up a bit and I was able to see the coolant coming up in the valve as I added it to the hose. Worked a treat! Thanks, Bill.

And now for a less-happy note. The rust on the passenger's floor is worse than I thought. Not BAD, but not just surface rust. There are 5 "pin holes", as you'll see in the pics below, as well as the screw holes for the threshold that need to be repaired. So the question becomes how best to do that.

I'm thinking that I'll turn the welder WAY down and see if I can't weld the holes shut. Yes, I know that the floor is thin to start with, and even thinner where it has rusted, but I think I can do it. On the other hand, perhaps epoxy? Thoughts?

Here's a shot of the driver's side before I started working on it. The screw heads were so rusty I couldn't back the screws out and I had to drill them out. But the floor is in pretty good shape with essentially no rust.

And here's the passenger's side before I started.

As you can see, both of the covers were pretty rusty. And it doesn't look like they were ever properly sealed at the factory. So I media-blasted them and will POR-15 them when I paint the other things with it. They aren't pretty, but they'll work fine.

And now for the passenger's floor. This shot is after a lot of wire brushing and sanding. I circled the 5 holes as I doubt you could see them otherwise. But they aren't big at all, so I'm hoping that they'll be easy to seal.

However, I don't think epoxy is the way to seal the screw holes for the threshold. Here's one up close and you can see the rust damage:

So, as I think about it, I believe the thing to do is to see if I can weld one of the small pinholes. Then do the others, and then turn to the screw holes for the threshold. Unless y'all convince me otherwise, that's the plan for tomorrow.

And if that goes well I think I need to inspect the bottom side of the floor, which may mean I need to pull the heat shield that goes above the cat - which I don't have. At the very least the welds need to be protected, and there may be rust under there as well.

I'm pretty sure I have a filler plug for you Gary. I'll check in the morning and let you know.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Jim - I'd thought about that, but wasn't sure how well it would work. I'd have to get it hotter than welding, but I'm going to paint it anyway so that's not a problem. I think I'll give it a try. Thanks.

How is that?

Brazing happens at about 1,000F

You don't get steel fusion until 2,500F.

You would have a larger HAZ, but not nearly as hot as welding, and no chance of melting through.

[ArdWrknTrk]

How is that?

Brazing happens at about 1,000F

You don't get steel fusion until 2,500F.

You would have a larger HAZ, but not nearly as hot as welding, and no chance of melting through.

Those of us that learned on gaz instead of electric (because it was portable) see things from a different (antiquated) perspective.....

It's a good thing to master if you intend to TIG.

[Gary Lewis]

How is that?

Brazing happens at about 1,000F

You don't get steel fusion until 2,500F.

You would have a larger HAZ, but not nearly as hot as welding, and no chance of melting through.

Rob - Thanks!!

Jim - Brazing will require me to get a large area red hot for a longer period of time than welding. Welding would get a smaller area to a higher temperature for a very short period of time.

Bill - I missed your post. And I know the spacer you are talking about. Think I had one on a Chevy van. That might be an option. Thanks.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Rob - Thanks!!

Jim - Brazing will require me to get a large area red hot for a longer period of time than welding. Welding would get a smaller area to a higher temperature for a very short period of time.

Bill - I missed your post. And I know the spacer you are talking about. Think I had one on a Chevy van. That might be an option. Thanks.

Like I said 'heat affected zone', but with a small tip and proper flux it needent be a carpet bombing approach.

Practice on a piece for scrap, filling holes.

A puddle half the size of a penny is all you need.

[salans7]

Do you mean the sound deadening mat? That's the stuff that they say 25% coverage will suffice, although more is better. But shouldn't the insulation have complete coverage?

Having said that, I ordered two 36 sq ft packages of each, so I should have plenty of even the sound deadening mat to cover most of it. But I want to do inside of the doors, so that will both take more as well as take plenty of time.

I had it backwards, the mat is what I'm thinking of. I didn't use any type of insulation on my Ranger.

I disagree with them when they say more is better, solely based on my personal assumption that the initial 25% takes care of the vibration, and anything else is just gonna start covering areas that aren't prone to vibration or heat. On my 2003 Ranger I have the entire floor covered, the back wall doubled up, the entire roof, and as much of the outer door sheet metal as I could cover. If I had to estimate, over 60% of the interior sheet metal in my truck is covered, and I feel it's way too much. If I could do it again, I would do maybe 40% at most in that truck. On my 2002 Ranger and the F350 I only plan to do around 25-30%. I can barely hear emergency vehicles in the 2003 Ranger, hence why I think more isn't necessarily better.

Here's my driver's door for reference: