Big Blue's Transformation

[Gary Lewis]

I think they truly meant glove as singular for these trucks.

Good one!

[Nothing Special]

.... And speaking of Amazon, the new PCV valve and fuel tank cap are due in tomorrow. That will let me finalize the PCV plumbing as I got the needed 3/8" 90 degree hose barb today. And the cap will let me seal up the tank to some extent - I didn't know that later trucks used a different cap....

You're talking about the cap you take off at the gas station to fill the tank, right? I know my '85 F-250HD was exempt from the catalyst requirement, so it could burn regular leaded gas (remember that stuff?). But "later" trucks (as well as under 8400 GVWR trucks starting sometime in the '70s) had a catalytic converter and had to burn unleaded gas. Catalyst equipped trucks had a restrictor in the fill neck that wouldn't let you put a leaded-fuel nozzle in, and they used different caps. So that might be what you're looking at.

Another change (but I don't think this change changed anything), OBD2 vehicles will set a code if the fuel tank cap is off (the cap is literally a part of the emissions control system). So "later" (OBD2) vehicles would need a cap that would seal appropriately to avoid setting that code. However I don't think there was a new design cap for that, I think it was just using the same caps used in the earlier catalyst-equipped vehicles.

[85lebaront2]

I think the PDB is bigger than the glove box.

Actually, it is close. I printed it at 7.6 x 9" instead of 8 x 10", which I'd done originally, and that made it just small enough that when I trimmed and folded it I was easily able to get it in the PDB. But, the 8 x 10 version just fits on the right/big side of the glove box.

Here's a shot of what the thing looks like after folding:

And here's how it fits in the PDB. Note that the folded side is on the left, as that's where the catch is and that makes it shut evenly. But I'm guessing that after time the plastic will give a bit and it'll lay flatter.

By me using 1996 harnesses and PDB all I have to do is look in the owner's manual and if, as I did the other day need to go further, I pull out my 1996 EVTM.

The konvertible will be another story, it has a 1996 Dodge Stratus PDC so I could do away with all the fusible links and I am working on a 1990 J body inside harness.

[ArdWrknTrk]

All of the above is true. Inc your statement, Scott.

On the vacation, we are going SOMEWHERE in late Sept/early Oct. But we aren't sure where yet. We just need to get away.

Now, back to our regularly-scheduled programming. Just got a note from Herko Automotive via Amazon, and the new front FDM has shipped. That's amazing as the lady said yesterday that they, Herko, would contact me in a day or two. So this is great service.

And speaking of Amazon, the new PCV valve and fuel tank cap are due in tomorrow. That will let me finalize the PCV plumbing as I got the needed 3/8" 90 degree hose barb today. And the cap will let me seal up the tank to some extent - I didn't know that later trucks used a different cap.

And Scott's question about fusing reminded me - I don't have a schematic showing the new PDB wiring other than on the screen. So I printed one at 600 dpi and laminated it. I need to decide where and how to put that. I say that 'cause there's nothing in the PDB that tells what relay or fuse is what, and if I blow something it would sure be nice to know what is what.

I'm trying to come up with a way to make it small enough to actually put in the PDB. But I need some suggestions. The PDB measures 4 1/2" x 6 1/2", so it needs to be no bigger than that. And the laminate sheet measures 9" x 11 1/2". At first blush it looks like folding that laminated sheet in quarters would work, but it is just a smidge too big.

I think I'll print it a bit smaller, laminate that, trim the laminated sheet, and see if that fits. But, if you have suggestions I'd appreciate it. Here's what it looks like:

If it were me I would just put the fuse sizes the circuit purpose and their slot number in the biggest legible characters I could, and glue that it the inside of the cover.

Save this for the glove box.

I don't want to be struggling to read hieroglyphs on the side of the highway, at night, in the sleet, with semis tearing by at 70.

But then, I tow cars and know too well what that's like -on my back, trying to hook them-

 

[ArdWrknTrk]

If it were me I would just put the fuse sizes the circuit purpose and their slot number in the biggest legible characters I could, and glue that it the inside of the cover.

Save this for the glove box.

I don't want to be struggling to read hieroglyphs on the side of the highway, at night, in the sleet, with semis tearing by at 70.

But then, I tow cars and know too well what that's like -on my back, trying to hook them-

No one can see wire colors, the alternator, or any of those other details from inside the power distribution center lid.

Not, would they really care. (from there)

 

[ArdWrknTrk]

.... And speaking of Amazon, the new PCV valve and fuel tank cap are due in tomorrow. That will let me finalize the PCV plumbing as I got the needed 3/8" 90 degree hose barb today. And the cap will let me seal up the tank to some extent - I didn't know that later trucks used a different cap....

You're talking about the cap you take off at the gas station to fill the tank, right? I know my '85 F-250HD was exempt from the catalyst requirement, so it could burn regular leaded gas (remember that stuff?). But "later" trucks (as well as under 8400 GVWR trucks starting sometime in the '70s) had a catalytic converter and had to burn unleaded gas. Catalyst equipped trucks had a restrictor in the fill neck that wouldn't let you put a leaded-fuel nozzle in, and they used different caps. So that might be what you're looking at.

Another change (but I don't think this change changed anything), OBD2 vehicles will set a code if the fuel tank cap is off (the cap is literally a part of the emissions control system). So "later" (OBD2) vehicles would need a cap that would seal appropriately to avoid setting that code. However I don't think there was a new design cap for that, I think it was just using the same caps used in the earlier catalyst-equipped vehicles.

My brick takes a different cap from Bullnose, but still has the unleaded hole size in the neck.

I bought two new Motorcraft caps (with a pop-in lanyard) instead of the plastic hinge from Amazon for ~$10 each.

In Connecticut they used to test the cap itself for OBD-1 and earlier vehicles.

At over 30 I've aged out of that now.

[Gary Lewis]

If it were me I would just put the fuse sizes the circuit purpose and their slot number in the biggest legible characters I could, and glue that it the inside of the cover.

Save this for the glove box.

I don't want to be struggling to read hieroglyphs on the side of the highway, at night, in the sleet, with semis tearing by at 70.

But then, I tow cars and know too well what that's like -on my back, trying to hook them-

Bob - Here's a shot of the caps. The Bullnose caps have wings that go in slots, and the later caps screw in.

Bill - As you know, BB is a mix of '85 and '95. But, I'm not sure I'll do Dad's truck that way.

Jim - The schematic folds out big enough to read, so it won't hurt to have it in the PDB. But your idea of creating a sheet that has the fuses and relay uses is a good one. That could be glued in the lid and still have the schematic folded up in there. (And in the glove box, like it also is at present.)

Now for what else I've done. I got the PCV hose set up, as shown below. The new PCV valve should be in tomorrow and I can install it, but at least the hose is ready.

Then I turned to the fresh air for the PCV system. Here's a air cleaner base showing how the hose will go, but I'll need to get some 5/8" hose and a barbed 90 to make the connections.

Last, I tried to fit the dual-snorkel air cleaner I made for Dad's truck - to no avail. I'll probably just put a snorkel on the one in the pic above to drive the truck for a bit. But depending on how long I'm going to run the carb I might decide to turn that base into another dual-snorkel.

There are three problems: it is hitting the tube coming off the A/C compressor; it is laying on the oil filler cap; and it is hitting the insulator for the spark plug wires. So, if I do make a dual-snorkel I will probably have to reduce the "droop", take the hot air inlet off, and possibly bring it off "a bit earlier on the clock". Or, change the angle. However, if I could bend that tube up just a bit it would make things easier. Think I can do that?

[ArdWrknTrk]

Bob - Here's a shot of the caps. The Bullnose caps have wings that go in slots, and the later caps screw in.

Bill - As you know, BB is a mix of '85 and '95. But, I'm not sure I'll do Dad's truck that way.

Jim - The schematic folds out big enough to read, so it won't hurt to have it in the PDB. But your idea of creating a sheet that has the fuses and relay uses is a good one. That could be glued in the lid and still have the schematic folded up in there. (And in the glove box, like it also is at present.)

Now for what else I've done. I got the PCV hose set up, as shown below. The new PCV valve should be in tomorrow and I can install it, but at least the hose is ready.

Then I turned to the fresh air for the PCV system. Here's a air cleaner base showing how the hose will go, but I'll need to get some 5/8" hose and a barbed 90 to make the connections.

Last, I tried to fit the dual-snorkel air cleaner I made for Dad's truck - to no avail. I'll probably just put a snorkel on the one in the pic above to drive the truck for a bit. But depending on how long I'm going to run the carb I might decide to turn that base into another dual-snorkel.

There are three problems: it is hitting the tube coming off the A/C compressor; it is laying on the oil filler cap; and it is hitting the insulator for the spark plug wires. So, if I do make a dual-snorkel I will probably have to reduce the "droop", take the hot air inlet off, and possibly bring it off "a bit earlier on the clock". Or, change the angle. However, if I could bend that tube up just a bit it would make things easier. Think I can do that?

I have the Motorcraft FC-920 cap and it's up to $16 now...

[85lebaront2]

Bob - Here's a shot of the caps. The Bullnose caps have wings that go in slots, and the later caps screw in.

Bill - As you know, BB is a mix of '85 and '95. But, I'm not sure I'll do Dad's truck that way.

Jim - The schematic folds out big enough to read, so it won't hurt to have it in the PDB. But your idea of creating a sheet that has the fuses and relay uses is a good one. That could be glued in the lid and still have the schematic folded up in there. (And in the glove box, like it also is at present.)

Now for what else I've done. I got the PCV hose set up, as shown below. The new PCV valve should be in tomorrow and I can install it, but at least the hose is ready.

Then I turned to the fresh air for the PCV system. Here's a air cleaner base showing how the hose will go, but I'll need to get some 5/8" hose and a barbed 90 to make the connections.

Last, I tried to fit the dual-snorkel air cleaner I made for Dad's truck - to no avail. I'll probably just put a snorkel on the one in the pic above to drive the truck for a bit. But depending on how long I'm going to run the carb I might decide to turn that base into another dual-snorkel.

There are three problems: it is hitting the tube coming off the A/C compressor; it is laying on the oil filler cap; and it is hitting the insulator for the spark plug wires. So, if I do make a dual-snorkel I will probably have to reduce the "droop", take the hot air inlet off, and possibly bring it off "a bit earlier on the clock". Or, change the angle. However, if I could bend that tube up just a bit it would make things easier. Think I can do that?

Since I had to get new filler necks anyway for the newer tanks (something about the 1986 necks not working on the 1990 tanks and styleside filler necks not fitting dually fenders) So I grabbed the ones from the Diesel Dually Donnie had because all the gas ones had the hosed cut. Since all gas is unleaded (except Avgas) the lack of the restrictors isn't important, besides Darth never had them anyway.

I forgot that most AFBs have a front PCV nipple, too used to either Holleys or Autolites with spacers where in connects.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Since I had to get new filler necks anyway for the newer tanks (something about the 1986 necks not working on the 1990 tanks and styleside filler necks not fitting dually fenders) So I grabbed the ones from the Diesel Dually Donnie had because all the gas ones had the hosed cut. Since all gas is unleaded (except Avgas) the lack of the restrictors isn't important, besides Darth never had them anyway.

I forgot that most AFBs have a front PCV nipple, too used to either Holleys or Autolites with spacers where in connects.

Brick and later necks run the fuel down the center, and vent from the circumference.

Opposite of the Bullnose fillers and with less burping.