Gary Lewis Posted August 9, 2020 Author Share Posted August 9, 2020 ..... So I'm not going to worry about it.I've heard you say that twice in the past couple of days. And I'm a bit concerned about your mental health! Yeah, I can understand. But in this case I think I'd go more insane trying to figure out why I have all of the extraneous pieces than just going with the flow. The all-nylon lines from Huck fit, and I have no clue where the stainless lines came from. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted August 9, 2020 Share Posted August 9, 2020 Ah you are talking about the nylon/plastic braided lines for high pressure applications such as power steering and brakes. I think that would be a bit over kill for a fuel vent or fuel pressure, those lines are supposed to be good to some 5,000 psi I think. Line pressures are dictated by hoop strength. With the race bikes we used to run teeny 3mm lines because the system pressure was so high. Nylon is a non-starter for brakes. It's very hygroscopic, and doesn't stand up well to glycol. But most rubber cased hydraulic lines (equipment like backhoes) are around 3500 psi line pressure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_S85 Posted August 10, 2020 Share Posted August 10, 2020 Line pressures are dictated by hoop strength. With the race bikes we used to run teeny 3mm lines because the system pressure was so high. Nylon is a non-starter for brakes. It's very hygroscopic, and doesn't stand up well to glycol. But most rubber cased hydraulic lines (equipment like backhoes) are around 3500 psi line pressure. Not sure what material it is, but the silver braded high pressure flex line that you get for powersteering and brakes it has a clear plastic line with the steel braid for strength. I know that cause I have used that stuff to make brake lines as ccp, hydratech, baer, and wilwood that offer the brake hose kit in the steel braid you have to custom make that stuff up some times and when you cut it you can see the plastic tube that makes the line up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted August 10, 2020 Share Posted August 10, 2020 Not sure what material it is, but the silver braded high pressure flex line that you get for powersteering and brakes it has a clear plastic line with the steel braid for strength. I know that cause I have used that stuff to make brake lines as ccp, hydratech, baer, and wilwood that offer the brake hose kit in the steel braid you have to custom make that stuff up some times and when you cut it you can see the plastic tube that makes the line up. But basically it has clear shrink tube on the outside so it doesn't chew up anything it contacts. Yeah, Teflon for brakes and anything else that flows evil fluids. Neoprene or something similar *for hydraulics. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted August 10, 2020 Author Share Posted August 10, 2020 But basically it has clear shrink tube on the outside so it doesn't chew up anything it contacts. Yeah, Teflon for brakes and anything else that flows evil fluids. Neoprene or something similar *for hydraulics. Are these relays really waterproof? Tight enough to endure the rigors of life down on the frame? I ask because I was just looking at the tank switching valve that sits on the frame and realized that it has a motorized switch in it that determines which fuel sender gets connected to the gauge. So it would sure be slick if I could put a relay down there in place of the valve, which I won't have. The alternative is to extend the wires from the two sending units to the area on the firewall near the fuel pump cutout relay and the fuel tank selection relay and add the relay there. But everything I need is down on the frame, so it would sure be slick to just mount the relay there. Just cut off the connector for the switching valve, wire in the relay, and be done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kramttocs Posted August 10, 2020 Share Posted August 10, 2020 Are these relays really waterproof? Tight enough to endure the rigors of life down on the frame? I ask because I was just looking at the tank switching valve that sits on the frame and realized that it has a motorized switch in it that determines which fuel sender gets connected to the gauge. So it would sure be slick if I could put a relay down there in place of the valve, which I won't have. The alternative is to extend the wires from the two sending units to the area on the firewall near the fuel pump cutout relay and the fuel tank selection relay and add the relay there. But everything I need is down on the frame, so it would sure be slick to just mount the relay there. Just cut off the connector for the switching valve, wire in the relay, and be done. No personal experience but reviews mentioning the waterproof aspect seem to lean towards the positive. I would ensure where the wires go in are satisfactorily sealed (since I didn't see a photo of that part) and use one. You could also mount it inside a weatherproof box like used for trailer wiring. At first blush though, I think I would extend the wires and put the relay with the others. That way you don't have to worry about water/stuff but mainly because that location makes more sense to me when doing future diagnostics. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted August 10, 2020 Share Posted August 10, 2020 No personal experience but reviews mentioning the waterproof aspect seem to lean towards the positive. I would ensure where the wires go in are satisfactorily sealed (since I didn't see a photo of that part) and use one. You could also mount it inside a weatherproof box like used for trailer wiring. At first blush though, I think I would extend the wires and put the relay with the others. That way you don't have to worry about water/stuff but mainly because that location makes more sense to me when doing future diagnostics. I'm of the same mind as Scott. No personal experience, but if on the undercarriage of an overlanding vehicle often used to ford streams and swamp I wouldn't have high hopes. No knock on the product or the poorly translated listing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted August 10, 2020 Author Share Posted August 10, 2020 I'm of the same mind as Scott. No personal experience, but if on the undercarriage of an overlanding vehicle often used to ford streams and swamp I wouldn't have high hopes. No knock on the product or the poorly translated listing. Yes, in the light of day the only reasonable solution is extending the lines up to the same area as the fuel pump and tank selector relays and placing the relay there. Fortunately all the wires but those two are in C127, which is in that same area, so it shouldn't be too hard. Thanks. So wiring is my quest today. I need to graft the new tank connectors on, wire in that relay, and find the dropping resistor and bypass it. It appears the dropping resistor is also in the same area as those relay, so I know where I'll be working today. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted August 10, 2020 Share Posted August 10, 2020 Are these relays really waterproof? Tight enough to endure the rigors of life down on the frame? I ask because I was just looking at the tank switching valve that sits on the frame and realized that it has a motorized switch in it that determines which fuel sender gets connected to the gauge. So it would sure be slick if I could put a relay down there in place of the valve, which I won't have. The alternative is to extend the wires from the two sending units to the area on the firewall near the fuel pump cutout relay and the fuel tank selection relay and add the relay there. But everything I need is down on the frame, so it would sure be slick to just mount the relay there. Just cut off the connector for the switching valve, wire in the relay, and be done. Gary, look at the wiring used on the 1986 EFI 302 for the tank selector system, I believe it was all in the switch changing which in-tank pump was powered and which sender was connected to the gauge. Compare that to the 1996 system, relay, if needed, can be up on the firewall or inside the cab. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted August 10, 2020 Author Share Posted August 10, 2020 Gary, look at the wiring used on the 1986 EFI 302 for the tank selector system, I believe it was all in the switch changing which in-tank pump was powered and which sender was connected to the gauge. Compare that to the 1996 system, relay, if needed, can be up on the firewall or inside the cab. Bill - Yes, the 5.0L EFI's wiring is nice as simple, as shown below: Not so the 7.5L's, which is what I have. And this is only half of the wiring diagram as it takes another page to show the pump circuits. So I'm going to replace the Tank Selector Valve in the diagram below with a relay. What is disappointing is that at first glance it looked like every one of the circuits is available in C127. But on closer inspection I found the "F150-350 only" note that shows that Big Blue's sender wiring goes straight to the tank selector valve. So I'll extend the wires up to the firewall area. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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