Big Blue's Transformation

[Gary Lewis]

$30 for 5 minutes?

I wish I could pull down that rate. 🤣

Doubt I'd get it done in 5 minutes. Anyway, this approach is gonna work.

[salans7]

Doubt I'd get it done in 5 minutes. Anyway, this approach is gonna work.

There's always a chance you'll have to mill down the Dorman one as well. Their quality has come up a little but they're still far from OEM.

[ArdWrknTrk]

There's always a chance you'll have to mill down the Dorman one as well. Their quality has come up a little but they're still far from OEM.

Piece of 120 wet-or-dry on a flat plate and a spritz of MMO or WD-40.

Figure eight and it's dead flat in a minute (with just enough tooth to hold the gasket)

[1986F150Six]

Turns out that the proper part number for a '95 F350 w/a 460 is F5TZ 8592-A. But that has been discontinued and I couldn't find one. But Dorman 902-1044 is the spitting image of the one I have, so I ordered one of those from Amazon. It is supposed to be here Saturday.

If this is the correct part [has an extra A at the end], then you could buy 5 Dormans.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-OEM-E-350-Econoline-Club-Wagon-Engine-Coolant-Thermostat-Housing-F5TZ8592AA/392798289199

[Gary Lewis]

Turns out that the proper part number for a '95 F350 w/a 460 is F5TZ 8592-A. But that has been discontinued and I couldn't find one. But Dorman 902-1044 is the spitting image of the one I have, so I ordered one of those from Amazon. It is supposed to be here Saturday.

If this is the correct part [has an extra A at the end], then you could buy 5 Dormans.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-OEM-E-350-Econoline-Club-Wagon-Engine-Coolant-Thermostat-Housing-F5TZ8592AA/392798289199

Yikes!!! I'll stick with the Dorman - even if I have to flatten it.

[Gary Lewis]

Yikes!!! I'll stick with the Dorman - even if I have to flatten it.

Well, where is the egg-on-face emoticon? Maybe this one will do:

I took Jim's advice and sanded the thermostat housing down. But instead of 120 grit I initially used 46 grit and ended up with 150 - cause that's what I had. And, it took me a whole 10 minutes.

Then I installed it with some RTV and let it sit for a while as I worked on other things, and then I tested it. And it leaked in the same spot. But, I then realized that it wasn't the thermostat housing that was leaking! Instead, it was the aftermarket temp gauge sender, shown below. And it dawned on me that I hadn't installed the fitting into which the sender is to go.

So, I pulled the sender, added the fitting, and put the sender back in. And then tested the cooling system. No leaks! It is sitting there at 10 psi with no air to it.

And, while I was waiting for the RTV to set up I did some testing of the voltage drop to the blower motor. (Looks like I installed the relay on the least-bad side of the circuit.) And in doing so I discovered that if I moved the connectors to the motor just right the connection failed. So I pulled it apart and was reminded that the connectors didn't really want to go together. Thinking the connectors might be different I pulled out Big Blue's original motor and compared the connectors. They are exactly the same, except that the Bricknose motor connector had the gasket shown below in it, which the Bullnose connector doesn't. So I pulled that out and the connectors went together as they should and the intermittent connection was no more.

[Gary Lewis]

Well, where is the egg-on-face emoticon? Maybe this one will do:

I took Jim's advice and sanded the thermostat housing down. But instead of 120 grit I initially used 46 grit and ended up with 150 - cause that's what I had. And, it took me a whole 10 minutes.

Then I installed it with some RTV and let it sit for a while as I worked on other things, and then I tested it. And it leaked in the same spot. But, I then realized that it wasn't the thermostat housing that was leaking! Instead, it was the aftermarket temp gauge sender, shown below. And it dawned on me that I hadn't installed the fitting into which the sender is to go.

So, I pulled the sender, added the fitting, and put the sender back in. And then tested the cooling system. No leaks! It is sitting there at 10 psi with no air to it.

And, while I was waiting for the RTV to set up I did some testing of the voltage drop to the blower motor. (Looks like I installed the relay on the least-bad side of the circuit.) And in doing so I discovered that if I moved the connectors to the motor just right the connection failed. So I pulled it apart and was reminded that the connectors didn't really want to go together. Thinking the connectors might be different I pulled out Big Blue's original motor and compared the connectors. They are exactly the same, except that the Bricknose motor connector had the gasket shown below in it, which the Bullnose connector doesn't. So I pulled that out and the connectors went together as they should and the intermittent connection was no more.

I forgot to say that I also ran the pressure up, and right at the 13 psi marked on the cap I started hearing air coming out of the overflow hose. Just a very very slight hiss at first that was difficult to even hear, but it grew as I increased the pressure. I took it on up to 15 psi where it was flowing pretty well out of the overflow, but backing off had it close up again at 13 psi.

And, as said, I left it at about 4:00 with 10 psi showing on the gauge. Just checked, 2 1/2 hours later and it is down to zero. But, I'm not sure that the regulator itself doesn't leak, so I don't know that I need to be worried. It would be nice if I had a ball valve between the gauge and the regulator so I could close the valve and still see the pressure.

[Gary Lewis]

I forgot to say that I also ran the pressure up, and right at the 13 psi marked on the cap I started hearing air coming out of the overflow hose. Just a very very slight hiss at first that was difficult to even hear, but it grew as I increased the pressure. I took it on up to 15 psi where it was flowing pretty well out of the overflow, but backing off had it close up again at 13 psi.

And, as said, I left it at about 4:00 with 10 psi showing on the gauge. Just checked, 2 1/2 hours later and it is down to zero. But, I'm not sure that the regulator itself doesn't leak, so I don't know that I need to be worried. It would be nice if I had a ball valve between the gauge and the regulator so I could close the valve and still see the pressure.

Got the rear FDM in yesterday and tried it in the 38 gallon Bronco tank. No go. In the orientation the tank calls for it was as if the FDM was 180 degrees out as the sender's float was hanging down and the filter was on the top side.

However, if you rotate the thing 180 degrees, meaning put the connections on the bottom rather than the top, it looks like it'll go but it hits the bottom 2" before the flange hits the tank.

So I'm lost. It looks like I'll need to return the FDM for the rear tank, but I'm not sure what to order to replace it. If I could find a 33 gallon Bronco tank with FDM I might go that way and sell this 38 gallon tank.

As for the mid-ship tank, we'll see how the FDM for it fits. As you'll see below I'll at least have to cut new slots in it. But then I worry that it'll rust there since I will have cut through the galvanizing. Perhaps I could paint the cuts? The tank is nice and clean inside, so I'm loathe to replace it.

Here's a comparison of the slots in the tanks. First row is the the 1985 mid-ship tank on the left and the 1990 mid-ship on the right. Notice the slots are 180 degrees off. And the second row has the 1985 Bronco rear tank on the left and the 1990 F-Series rear tank on the right:

[Gary Lewis]

Got the rear FDM in yesterday and tried it in the 38 gallon Bronco tank. No go. In the orientation the tank calls for it was as if the FDM was 180 degrees out as the sender's float was hanging down and the filter was on the top side.

However, if you rotate the thing 180 degrees, meaning put the connections on the bottom rather than the top, it looks like it'll go but it hits the bottom 2" before the flange hits the tank.

So I'm lost. It looks like I'll need to return the FDM for the rear tank, but I'm not sure what to order to replace it. If I could find a 33 gallon Bronco tank with FDM I might go that way and sell this 38 gallon tank.

As for the mid-ship tank, we'll see how the FDM for it fits. As you'll see below I'll at least have to cut new slots in it. But then I worry that it'll rust there since I will have cut through the galvanizing. Perhaps I could paint the cuts? The tank is nice and clean inside, so I'm loathe to replace it.

Here's a comparison of the slots in the tanks. First row is the the 1985 mid-ship tank on the left and the 1990 mid-ship on the right. Notice the slots are 180 degrees off. And the second row has the 1985 Bronco rear tank on the left and the 1990 F-Series rear tank on the right:

I fear I've lost everyone! But I have a new plan and want your input, so will try to keep this shortish.

First, I called Spectrum today and talked to Richard. Turns out they don't make a full fuel delivery module, meaning hanger/pump/sending unit for the Broncos. Just the pump. And I don't have a hanger or sending unit. In fact, no one but Motorcraft makes the complete fuel delivery module and those run about $400 each. Then I'd have to add a 33 gallon tank, which is another ~$100, so we are at $500. Given that, I think I'm going to ditch the idea of a 33 or 38 gallon rear tank from a Bronco.

So for the rear I'm going with a Spectra Premium F1G1FA, which is their 18 gallon rear tank with the full FDM installed. It is only $137 delivered from Amazon, so that's a no-brainer.

As for the front tank, the Spectra Premium tank/FDM combo is F6C1FA, but Amazon doesn't have them in stock and they run from $210 to $383 + shipping, depending on who you buy from. But I have the correct FDM coming in soon for ~$80 and can get the correct F6C Spectra tank delivered for $97.

This seems like the best way to go, and gives me a complete 1995 F350 fuel system. Does this make sense?

[kramttocs]

I fear I've lost everyone! But I have a new plan and want your input, so will try to keep this shortish.

First, I called Spectrum today and talked to Richard. Turns out they don't make a full fuel delivery module, meaning hanger/pump/sending unit for the Broncos. Just the pump. And I don't have a hanger or sending unit. In fact, no one but Motorcraft makes the complete fuel delivery module and those run about $400 each. Then I'd have to add a 33 gallon tank, which is another ~$100, so we are at $500. Given that, I think I'm going to ditch the idea of a 33 or 38 gallon rear tank from a Bronco.

So for the rear I'm going with a Spectra Premium F1G1FA, which is their 18 gallon rear tank with the full FDM installed. It is only $137 delivered from Amazon, so that's a no-brainer.

As for the front tank, the Spectra Premium tank/FDM combo is F6C1FA, but Amazon doesn't have them in stock and they run from $210 to $383 + shipping, depending on who you buy from. But I have the correct FDM coming in soon for ~$80 and can get the correct F6C Spectra tank delivered for $97.

This seems like the best way to go, and gives me a complete 1995 F350 fuel system. Does this make sense?

Sounds like the right moves to me. I really like the idea of the larger rear tank but the smaller one is nice when it comes to exhaust routing options and/or spare tire mounting. I believe you've already worked out those two things so likely not any consolation although the money savings is

Also, not sure if you have one already or not but if not you'd also need to factor in getting the shield especially with overlanding.

So all in all