Big Blue's Transformation

[ArdWrknTrk]

I agree the metal/braided hose is better. No doubt. I'm just wondering how best to protect even it as well as the slave cylinder.

I think I'll leave the hose coming in from the side and put the heat wrap on it. That will keep the line as far away from the header as is possible, and provide a bit more protection to the line itself. And since I didn't have any problems before and I now have ceramic-coated headers, it ought to be even better.

On the oil, at your suggestion I did send Scotty a note. We'll see what he says, but I'm guessing that I should fill it with 6 quarts, spin the oil pump up, and then let it sit for 15 minutes and check the level. I'm going to bet that it'll be a pint low given the size of that oil cooler.

However, if I remember correctly the adapter is a temp-controlled unit. Will it send oil to the cooler in my test?

I'm not familiar with the Ford cooler adapter.

But I'd be amazed if there wasn't a way to override it.

My old BMW I pictured the other day was upgraded to have an RT oil cooler and i would tighten in a bolt to force the thermostat open for oil changes.

[Gary Lewis]

I'm not familiar with the Ford cooler adapter.

But I'd be amazed if there wasn't a way to override it.

My old BMW I pictured the other day was upgraded to have an RT oil cooler and i would tighten in a bolt to force the thermostat open for oil changes.

That makes sense, but having had that adapter off and turned 12 way from Sunday in my hands, I sure didn't see any extra bolt holes or controls that might bypass it. I think I'm just going to add the oil, spin the pump up, and see what happens.

And I'll put my DVM across the oil pressure switch so I can watch it as I spin the pump. Then I may put my phone in the cab to video the aftermarket oil pressure gauge to see what kind of pressure it goes to.

Anyway, I should then know that all of the fittings are tight. And I can get the dizzy dropped down and clamped down - lightly so I can rotate it if need be.

The HVAC gaskets are due in tomorrow so Thursday I should be able to button up the HVAC system, finish the heater hose installation, and pour in the coolant. Which brings me to my next thought - testing the cooling system.

There's a fitting on the radiator neck for a small hose to go somewhere. I've assumed it was for the preheat for the EFI system, but it is capped on Big Blue. I've thought about using my new "bleeding tool" to put 15 psi on that fitting and checking to see if I have a leak somewhere.

I once lost a newly-rebuilt engine 'cause I blew a hose off when the pressure came up. So I'm just being cautious. I don't want any problems when I fire the engine to break in that cam.

[85lebaront2]

That makes sense, but having had that adapter off and turned 12 way from Sunday in my hands, I sure didn't see any extra bolt holes or controls that might bypass it. I think I'm just going to add the oil, spin the pump up, and see what happens.

And I'll put my DVM across the oil pressure switch so I can watch it as I spin the pump. Then I may put my phone in the cab to video the aftermarket oil pressure gauge to see what kind of pressure it goes to.

Anyway, I should then know that all of the fittings are tight. And I can get the dizzy dropped down and clamped down - lightly so I can rotate it if need be.

The HVAC gaskets are due in tomorrow so Thursday I should be able to button up the HVAC system, finish the heater hose installation, and pour in the coolant. Which brings me to my next thought - testing the cooling system.

There's a fitting on the radiator neck for a small hose to go somewhere. I've assumed it was for the preheat for the EFI system, but it is capped on Big Blue. I've thought about using my new "bleeding tool" to put 15 psi on that fitting and checking to see if I have a leak somewhere.

I once lost a newly-rebuilt engine 'cause I blew a hose off when the pressure came up. So I'm just being cautious. I don't want any problems when I fire the engine to break in that cam.

Gary, for some reason the E4OD equipt trucks are listed as having a special bypass line from one of the heater hoses to the filler neck. On the very early EFI 460s (probably 1988-89) it went to the throttle body and there was a supply nipple on the intake, probably on the heater fitting. I can't find a picture of it but here is how it runs on Darth:

[Gary Lewis]

Gary, for some reason the E4OD equipt trucks are listed as having a special bypass line from one of the heater hoses to the filler neck. On the very early EFI 460s (probably 1988-89) it went to the throttle body and there was a supply nipple on the intake, probably on the heater fitting. I can't find a picture of it but here is how it runs on Darth:

I knew of the one to the throttle body, which is what I assumed this was for. In fact, IIRC one of my throttle bodies has the places for the fittings cast into it, although not drilled nor tapped.

But didn't know about the one for the early E4OD's. I wonder why they did that?

[ArdWrknTrk]

That makes sense, but having had that adapter off and turned 12 way from Sunday in my hands, I sure didn't see any extra bolt holes or controls that might bypass it. I think I'm just going to add the oil, spin the pump up, and see what happens.

And I'll put my DVM across the oil pressure switch so I can watch it as I spin the pump. Then I may put my phone in the cab to video the aftermarket oil pressure gauge to see what kind of pressure it goes to.

Anyway, I should then know that all of the fittings are tight. And I can get the dizzy dropped down and clamped down - lightly so I can rotate it if need be.

The HVAC gaskets are due in tomorrow so Thursday I should be able to button up the HVAC system, finish the heater hose installation, and pour in the coolant. Which brings me to my next thought - testing the cooling system.

There's a fitting on the radiator neck for a small hose to go somewhere. I've assumed it was for the preheat for the EFI system, but it is capped on Big Blue. I've thought about using my new "bleeding tool" to put 15 psi on that fitting and checking to see if I have a leak somewhere.

I once lost a newly-rebuilt engine 'cause I blew a hose off when the pressure came up. So I'm just being cautious. I don't want any problems when I fire the engine to break in that cam.

I'd probably go until the cap opens up.

That really stinks to have a new engine melt down.

Definitely need to go back over the clamps after a few heat cycles.

[Gary Lewis]

I'd probably go until the cap opens up.

That really stinks to have a new engine melt down.

Definitely need to go back over the clamps after a few heat cycles.

Yes, I may just keep cranking the pressure until it pops the vent. And, I'll certainly check the clamps after a few heat cycles.

Now for the final, I think, shots of the clutch slave. I put the heat shield on the hose and then got creative with aluminum tape on the boot you sent. And, before you ask, the distance from the end of the boot to the header is 2 1/2".

[ArdWrknTrk]

Yes, I may just keep cranking the pressure until it pops the vent. And, I'll certainly check the clamps after a few heat cycles.

Now for the final, I think, shots of the clutch slave. I put the heat shield on the hose and then got creative with aluminum tape on the boot you sent. And, before you ask, the distance from the end of the boot to the header is 2 1/2".

I don't need to ask.

There is no alternative.

But I do think the boot and metal line are a lot better than exposed plastic in that application.

You're getting SO close Gary!

I REALLY hope you take the time to fully enjoy your creation. 😉

You've taken the mottos: 'Make it Yours' and 'Built not Bought' to a whole new level.

[Gary Lewis]

I don't need to ask.There is no alternative.But I do think the boot and metal line are a lot better than exposed plastic in that application.You're getting SO close Gary!I REALLY hope you take the time to fully enjoy your creation. 😉You've taken the mottos: 'Make it Yours' and 'Built not Bought' to a whole new level.

LOL! Yes, this may be a new level. But I certainly do plan to take some time "off" to enjoy the truck - and time with my wife.

 

Got the oil in and the pump spun - probably four times. The first time I watched the oil pressure switch go from closed to open on the NC contacts. Then I switched contacts and watched the NO contacts, the ones that run the fuel pump, close as the pressure came up. Then I put the camera on the aftermarket gauge and got the video below.

 

But, Scotty answered my note and asked what brand & model the cooler is. Told him that I don't know as it was on the truck when I got it, but it is 7" wide by 18" long and I provided a pic. And, that the best I can tell, the oil level is sitting just about Full on the dipstick, although that's really hard to tell with a new engine and oil.

 

Then I moved on to trying to get the dizzy to drop. Can't do it, so I guess I'm going to have to bump the starter. Shame as I have it sitting at 20 BTDC, which is where Scotty told me to set the timing for the initial startup.

 

[Gary Lewis]

LOL! Yes, this may be a new level. But I certainly do plan to take some time "off" to enjoy the truck - and time with my wife.

 

Got the oil in and the pump spun - probably four times. The first time I watched the oil pressure switch go from closed to open on the NC contacts. Then I switched contacts and watched the NO contacts, the ones that run the fuel pump, close as the pressure came up. Then I put the camera on the aftermarket gauge and got the video below.

 

But, Scotty answered my note and asked what brand & model the cooler is. Told him that I don't know as it was on the truck when I got it, but it is 7" wide by 18" long and I provided a pic. And, that the best I can tell, the oil level is sitting just about Full on the dipstick, although that's really hard to tell with a new engine and oil.

 

Then I moved on to trying to get the dizzy to drop. Can't do it, so I guess I'm going to have to bump the starter. Shame as I have it sitting at 20 BTDC, which is where Scotty told me to set the timing for the initial startup.

 

Scotty confirmed that he starts them the first time on 20 BTDC and that spinning the engine is the best way to drop the dizzy. So I spun the engine over with the starter and the dizzy dropped - pointed at #8. :nabble_smiley_sad:But, after a couple more tries it is now sitting at 20 BTDC and pointing at #1. And the clamp is snugged down, but not tight. Plus, the dizzy is now plugged into the electrical system.Now, if I just had coolant and fuel.....

[Gary Lewis]

Scotty confirmed that he starts them the first time on 20 BTDC and that spinning the engine is the best way to drop the dizzy. So I spun the engine over with the starter and the dizzy dropped - pointed at #8.

But, after a couple more tries it is now sitting at 20 BTDC and pointing at #1. And the clamp is snugged down, but not tight. Plus, the dizzy is now plugged into the electrical system.

Now, if I just had coolant and fuel.....

Speaking of fuel, I pulled out the FDM's as well as the pump and sending unit out of BB's mid-ship tank. As explained in the School Me On Fuel Deliver Module thread, I succeeded in getting one FDM apart. But it was a royal battle and one I'm not interested in doing again. So I'm pretty sure I'm going to order in two new FDMs. But first I'll put these FDM's in the tanks and make sure the orientation is correct as they are tabbed.

However, I have a conundrum. The new FDMs will come with new sending units, and my plan has been to build the Arduino and convert the later sender's output to work with the Bullnose gauges. However, I've realized that the sending units on the FDMs screw on the side of the module. So I could easily make a bracket to hold a Bullnose sending unit on the side of an FDM. And, I think I actually have the sending units, courtesy of Vernon.

While that wasn't the plan, I believe I should consider it. But I'm looking for your input.