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Big Blue's Transformation


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I think the Magnaflows will be mellow but quiet. But I'll probably opt for quieter rather than louder.

Anyway, I got a bit more done today. First, I added the gaskets between the headers and collectors and provided supports for the ends of the muffs. The passenger's side is touching the heat shield under the seat, but I don't think I'll be running or driving it long enough for that to be a problem.

Then I installed the skid plate under the transfer case since the muffler shop is going to need to know where it goes to make sure their exhaust clears it. But, mounting it wasn't as easy as it might first seem since there was a thick layer of grunge on the inside where the t-case must have been leaking. I took a putty knife and got most of that out, but there sure was a lot of it. Then I heated up the parts washer and ran it through.

Here it is:

Then I went out to get the FDM's but realized they are back in the tanks so I needed a tool to remove the keeper ring. But, the stone guard was in the way of getting to the tanks so I took it in and decided to install it. Again, that wasn't as easy as it sounds to get it where I wanted it. The issue was that it clears the engine oil cooler by only 1/8" and took a bit of shimming and tweaking to get that clearance.

And while I was looking things over I realized I hadn't put the ground on the alternator that Jim suggested. So I pulled out the left over wire and lugs, found a piece of #2 and the right connectors, and made one. It runs from the bolt hole on the back of the alternator down to the ground stud on the block where the #2 battery ground meets the #2 frame ground. I think we are now truly grounded. :nabble_smiley_wink:

Progress Gary! :nabble_smiley_good:

That skid plate looks great, and the cable is reassuring.

Hard to imagine how close you're getting.

What do you do when you reach the center of the onion??? 😉

 

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Progress Gary! :nabble_smiley_good:

That skid plate looks great, and the cable is reassuring.

Hard to imagine how close you're getting.

What do you do when you reach the center of the onion??? 😉

I never thought about a separate alternator ground cable on a bolted solid to metal alternator mount. My Chrysler has one that goes from the alternator to the ground point on the cylinder head and then to the battery but that alternator is mounted on polyurethane bushings and even the tensioner arm has a polyurethane center.

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Progress Gary! :nabble_smiley_good:

That skid plate looks great, and the cable is reassuring.

Hard to imagine how close you're getting.

What do you do when you reach the center of the onion??? 😉

Thanks, Jim. Notice I didn't chase the powder coating rabbit when dealing with the skid plate? My theory is that it'll get banged on, so why PC it? But I do want it clean.

As for the center of the onion, I dunno. Haven't been there in a looooong time, and I forget. Perhaps have a Bloomin' Onion?

On the wire, now I'm pretty sure the system can handle all the current the alternator can deliver. And with the inverter and winch, it may just get a chance to do so.

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I never thought about a separate alternator ground cable on a bolted solid to metal alternator mount. My Chrysler has one that goes from the alternator to the ground point on the cylinder head and then to the battery but that alternator is mounted on polyurethane bushings and even the tensioner arm has a polyurethane center.

Did you paint and powder coat a whole bunch of the brackets and fasteners? That's the impetus for the ground cable.

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These are just for break-in. They were on the truck when I got it, but they are not my cup of tea. Instead I'm going with Magnaflows. Don't know which ones, but the shop told me yesterday that they have an SUV muff and a truck muff. They think I want the truck one as they are smaller. Not sure I do, but we shall see.

I sure do NOT want drone. The intent is to wear this thing out using it. Long trips, off-road, etc. And I don't want to be exhausted by the exhaust at the end of the day. But, I do want to hear that 460 a bit. :nabble_smiley_wink:

I dont know how they sound but this is the one I got.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mpe-13645

its the Magnaflow XL 3 chamber 6" round muffler, 27" case, 33" overall length with off set/off set 2 1/4" inlet/outlet. I figured it would be easier to put a 2 1/2" to 2 1/4" reducer on the front side or have a local muffler shop stretch the stainless steel inlet from 2 1/4" to 2 1/2".

But I got this cause I compared it to a walker OE replacement muffler and the dimensions are almost exact.

The walker for a '82 F150 is a 25" case with a 31" overall length. So it is fairly close and being a truck can always shift the muffler forward and shorten the pipe from the Y pipe to the muffler to offset the size.

I also know from experience larger the muffler the quieter and more mellow it is.

This is a video of a Magnaflow XL 3 chamber on a 390 big block.

One on a 66 mustang

This is the one that helped me to decide on it especially since I will be running fuel injection as well which tends to smooth out exhaust chop.

And a comparison of Flowmaster vs Magnaflow video, its why I never recommend a flowmaster nor would ever use one.

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I dont know how they sound but this is the one I got.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mpe-13645

its the Magnaflow XL 3 chamber 6" round muffler, 27" case, 33" overall length with off set/off set 2 1/4" inlet/outlet. I figured it would be easier to put a 2 1/2" to 2 1/4" reducer on the front side or have a local muffler shop stretch the stainless steel inlet from 2 1/4" to 2 1/2".

But I got this cause I compared it to a walker OE replacement muffler and the dimensions are almost exact.

The walker for a '82 F150 is a 25" case with a 31" overall length. So it is fairly close and being a truck can always shift the muffler forward and shorten the pipe from the Y pipe to the muffler to offset the size.

I also know from experience larger the muffler the quieter and more mellow it is.

This is a video of a Magnaflow XL 3 chamber on a 390 big block.

One on a 66 mustang

This is the one that helped me to decide on it especially since I will be running fuel injection as well which tends to smooth out exhaust chop.

And a comparison of Flowmaster vs Magnaflow video, its why I never recommend a flowmaster nor would ever use one.

Bill - The valve cover did turn out nicely. Hope you get the car together soon.

Rusty - The Magnaflow is much better than the Flowmaster in the video, but it is still too loud for my tastes. I'm wanting something a little quieter. But thanks for posting those links.

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Bill - The valve cover did turn out nicely. Hope you get the car together soon.

Rusty - The Magnaflow is much better than the Flowmaster in the video, but it is still too loud for my tastes. I'm wanting something a little quieter. But thanks for posting those links.

I dont blame you for wanting something quieter.

Me I will have to see how the Magnaflow XL 3 chamber sounds. It may be too quiet for me with how my exhaust is set up or it may be too loud. I know I want fairly quiet I want the exhaust at idle and cruise to sound like late model vehicles do where they have a nice tone that isnt too loud. But I also want it to come to life and become decently loud and aggressive sounding.

Basically if it sounds like my Thrust glasspack volume wise I will be happy.

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I dont blame you for wanting something quieter.

Me I will have to see how the Magnaflow XL 3 chamber sounds. It may be too quiet for me with how my exhaust is set up or it may be too loud. I know I want fairly quiet I want the exhaust at idle and cruise to sound like late model vehicles do where they have a nice tone that isnt too loud. But I also want it to come to life and become decently loud and aggressive sounding.

Basically if it sounds like my Thrust glasspack volume wise I will be happy.

Got a bit done today. First, the upper radiator hose came in. Here's a pic of the original hose and the new one, which is F5TZ 8260-A. See if you can tell which is which. :nabble_smiley_wink:

Comparison_Of_Upper_Radiator_Hoses.thumb.jpg.f227feae39001680127d43ebe72293b5.jpg

And here's the F5 hose installed:

Upper_Radiator_Hose_Is_On.thumb.jpg.5b506bed39b461ae9eebd27cf26200ea.jpg

While raising and lowering the truck I spied the huck replacement bolt and remembered that the TSB says you are supposed to turn the wheels lock-to-lock several times then tighten the bolt down and tack weld it. So I did, and then tacked it, although my welding skills are even worse upside down than right side up. :nabble_smiley_blush:

I subsequently painted it with POR-15 to ensure it won't rust. And, by the way, I was amazed at how far the front wheels turn!

Huck_Replacement_Bolt_Is_Tack_Welded.thumb.jpg.060f44becff5b53545be70204a8674a8.jpg

Last, I put the shorter 9/16" bolts in on the track bar. But, adjusting it is interesting. In the neutral position, meaning there's no pressure on the track bar when I have the truck in the air, the driver's-side tire sticks out 2" and the passenger's side tire sticks out 3" from the fenders. In other words, it is 1/2" off.

But when I tighten the track bar to get closer to even the truck crab-walks to the driver's side every time I raise and lower it with the lift. Today I had to reposition it 'cause it had gotten so far over.

So, I'm wondering how "correct" it needs to be. Sky's installation instructions say "Factory Fords we have seen up to a 3/4 inch." Thoughts?

Track_Bar_Is_On.thumb.jpg.cbd48337a06a285bde8c0a032f009470.jpg

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