Big Blue's Transformation

[Gary Lewis]

Ch, ch, ch, ch, CHERRY BOMB! 💥💥💥

Gary, I know you don't like used parts.

I intended you'd use the line and boot, get the Excedy bleedable slave and use whatever master you had.

A metal line with a braided stainless flex section would give me a LOT of piece of mind.

An aluminum slave cylinder with the reflective boot has to be better than a black plastic slave an inch from the headers.

There's nothing special about the O-rings. They just have to resist glycol if that is the fluid you'd use.

Yes guys, cherry bombs! That's what was on it when I got it. They aren't too loud - unless you have it under a load, like pulling a trailer. But for break-in they'll work. So I'm getting ready to install the gaskets and hang the back of the muffs to take the load off the headers.

Also, I got a note from Tasca Ford that they were refunding my money for the upper radiator hose because "Part #F5TZ-8260-A is currently on national backorder with the automotive manufacturer and has no estimated date of resupply. We do not currently have this item in stock at our warehouse and are unable to acquire it at this time."

So I went back to Rear Counter and called Bob Allen Ford who supposedly had one. But the nice guy there said he'd sold it since they updated their inventory. However, he looked in the Ford parts network and found another dealer that had one. So I called them and the hose is on its way.

Jim - On the line and slave cylinder, I'm going to drive the pin out of the master that's on Big Blue and see if the fitting on the line you sent will fit. If it does then I think I may run your slave/line combo as the pin is so rusty it does not want to come out of the slave. So I fear that if I try to force it out I may damage the slave. We shall see what happens.

But the slave itself is 4" from the header and the line doesn't get closer than 5". So I could run the leftover heat shield I got for the dip stick on the line. And with the boot you sent I think it would be ok. I didn't have any problem before and had essentially the same headers on. However, if I can get the line in that'll be that much more insurance. Thanks again!

 

[ArdWrknTrk]

Yes guys, cherry bombs! That's what was on it when I got it. They aren't too loud - unless you have it under a load, like pulling a trailer. But for break-in they'll work. So I'm getting ready to install the gaskets and hang the back of the muffs to take the load off the headers.

Also, I got a note from Tasca Ford that they were refunding my money for the upper radiator hose because "Part #F5TZ-8260-A is currently on national backorder with the automotive manufacturer and has no estimated date of resupply. We do not currently have this item in stock at our warehouse and are unable to acquire it at this time."

So I went back to Rear Counter and called Bob Allen Ford who supposedly had one. But the nice guy there said he'd sold it since they updated their inventory. However, he looked in the Ford parts network and found another dealer that had one. So I called them and the hose is on its way.

Jim - On the line and slave cylinder, I'm going to drive the pin out of the master that's on Big Blue and see if the fitting on the line you sent will fit. If it does then I think I may run your slave/line combo as the pin is so rusty it does not want to come out of the slave. So I fear that if I try to force it out I may damage the slave. We shall see what happens.

But the slave itself is 4" from the header and the line doesn't get closer than 5". So I could run the leftover heat shield I got for the dip stick on the line. And with the boot you sent I think it would be ok. I didn't have any problem before and had essentially the same headers on. However, if I can get the line in that'll be that much more insurance. Thanks again!

Gary, the pin will come out.

You just need a bigger hammer.

A gentle tap with a much larger hammer will shift things when slamming it with a 16 or 24oz hammer does nothing.

Glad you were able to find the correct hose.

I often search part numbers on eBay (specifically)

That's how I managed to find that triangle finger I need.

[Rusty_S85]

Yes guys, cherry bombs! That's what was on it when I got it. They aren't too loud - unless you have it under a load, like pulling a trailer. But for break-in they'll work. So I'm getting ready to install the gaskets and hang the back of the muffs to take the load off the headers.

Also, I got a note from Tasca Ford that they were refunding my money for the upper radiator hose because "Part #F5TZ-8260-A is currently on national backorder with the automotive manufacturer and has no estimated date of resupply. We do not currently have this item in stock at our warehouse and are unable to acquire it at this time."

So I went back to Rear Counter and called Bob Allen Ford who supposedly had one. But the nice guy there said he'd sold it since they updated their inventory. However, he looked in the Ford parts network and found another dealer that had one. So I called them and the hose is on its way.

Jim - On the line and slave cylinder, I'm going to drive the pin out of the master that's on Big Blue and see if the fitting on the line you sent will fit. If it does then I think I may run your slave/line combo as the pin is so rusty it does not want to come out of the slave. So I fear that if I try to force it out I may damage the slave. We shall see what happens.

But the slave itself is 4" from the header and the line doesn't get closer than 5". So I could run the leftover heat shield I got for the dip stick on the line. And with the boot you sent I think it would be ok. I didn't have any problem before and had essentially the same headers on. However, if I can get the line in that'll be that much more insurance. Thanks again!

You going to keep the mufflers?

Also are they cherry bombs or are they Thrush? I got a set of red powdercoated Thrush that are very mellow compared to actual cherry bombs. But I plan on replacing them with a OE looking Magnaflow XL3 chamber 6" round muffler for that OE look as well as for that nice sound that I hear so many cars with magnaflow exhaust sound. Not looking for drone or loud raspy I want a nice throaty idle that will become a decently loud growl when getting on the throttle. Hopefully this will provide me with that.

[Gary Lewis]

You going to keep the mufflers?

Also are they cherry bombs or are they Thrush? I got a set of red powdercoated Thrush that are very mellow compared to actual cherry bombs. But I plan on replacing them with a OE looking Magnaflow XL3 chamber 6" round muffler for that OE look as well as for that nice sound that I hear so many cars with magnaflow exhaust sound. Not looking for drone or loud raspy I want a nice throaty idle that will become a decently loud growl when getting on the throttle. Hopefully this will provide me with that.

These are just for break-in. They were on the truck when I got it, but they are not my cup of tea. Instead I'm going with Magnaflows. Don't know which ones, but the shop told me yesterday that they have an SUV muff and a truck muff. They think I want the truck one as they are smaller. Not sure I do, but we shall see.

I sure do NOT want drone. The intent is to wear this thing out using it. Long trips, off-road, etc. And I don't want to be exhausted by the exhaust at the end of the day. But, I do want to hear that 460 a bit.

[85lebaront2]

These are just for break-in. They were on the truck when I got it, but they are not my cup of tea. Instead I'm going with Magnaflows. Don't know which ones, but the shop told me yesterday that they have an SUV muff and a truck muff. They think I want the truck one as they are smaller. Not sure I do, but we shall see.

I sure do NOT want drone. The intent is to wear this thing out using it. Long trips, off-road, etc. And I don't want to be exhausted by the exhaust at the end of the day. But, I do want to hear that 460 a bit.

Darth isn't bad with EFI front pipes and the remainder of the system essentially the original dual to the muffler and out behind the axle. In the HRBT or CBBT if I have a or the windows down there is a nice deep drone from the tailpipe probably 12' behind me.

[ArdWrknTrk]

These are just for break-in. They were on the truck when I got it, but they are not my cup of tea. Instead I'm going with Magnaflows. Don't know which ones, but the shop told me yesterday that they have an SUV muff and a truck muff. They think I want the truck one as they are smaller. Not sure I do, but we shall see.

I sure do NOT want drone. The intent is to wear this thing out using it. Long trips, off-road, etc. And I don't want to be exhausted by the exhaust at the end of the day. But, I do want to hear that 460 a bit.

Yeah, I never want my own truck to drone or crack.

Though I went with what thought was going to last me the longest (16Ga. all welded, no packing)

It does have a sound I find pleasant, with a deep tone.

[Gary Lewis]

Yeah, I never want my own truck to drone or crack.

Though I went with what thought was going to last me the longest (16Ga. all welded, no packing)

It does have a sound I find pleasant, with a deep tone.

I think the Magnaflows will be mellow but quiet. But I'll probably opt for quieter rather than louder.

Anyway, I got a bit more done today. First, I added the gaskets between the headers and collectors and provided supports for the ends of the muffs. The passenger's side is touching the heat shield under the seat, but I don't think I'll be running or driving it long enough for that to be a problem.

Then I installed the skid plate under the transfer case since the muffler shop is going to need to know where it goes to make sure their exhaust clears it. But, mounting it wasn't as easy as it might first seem since there was a thick layer of grunge on the inside where the t-case must have been leaking. I took a putty knife and got most of that out, but there sure was a lot of it. Then I heated up the parts washer and ran it through.

Here it is:

Then I went out to get the FDM's but realized they are back in the tanks so I needed a tool to remove the keeper ring. But, the stone guard was in the way of getting to the tanks so I took it in and decided to install it. Again, that wasn't as easy as it sounds to get it where I wanted it. The issue was that it clears the engine oil cooler by only 1/8" and took a bit of shimming and tweaking to get that clearance.

And while I was looking things over I realized I hadn't put the ground on the alternator that Jim suggested. So I pulled out the left over wire and lugs, found a piece of #2 and the right connectors, and made one. It runs from the bolt hole on the back of the alternator down to the ground stud on the block where the #2 battery ground meets the #2 frame ground. I think we are now truly grounded.

[grumpin]

I think the Magnaflows will be mellow but quiet. But I'll probably opt for quieter rather than louder.

Anyway, I got a bit more done today. First, I added the gaskets between the headers and collectors and provided supports for the ends of the muffs. The passenger's side is touching the heat shield under the seat, but I don't think I'll be running or driving it long enough for that to be a problem.

Then I installed the skid plate under the transfer case since the muffler shop is going to need to know where it goes to make sure their exhaust clears it. But, mounting it wasn't as easy as it might first seem since there was a thick layer of grunge on the inside where the t-case must have been leaking. I took a putty knife and got most of that out, but there sure was a lot of it. Then I heated up the parts washer and ran it through.

Here it is:

Then I went out to get the FDM's but realized they are back in the tanks so I needed a tool to remove the keeper ring. But, the stone guard was in the way of getting to the tanks so I took it in and decided to install it. Again, that wasn't as easy as it sounds to get it where I wanted it. The issue was that it clears the engine oil cooler by only 1/8" and took a bit of shimming and tweaking to get that clearance.

And while I was looking things over I realized I hadn't put the ground on the alternator that Jim suggested. So I pulled out the left over wire and lugs, found a piece of #2 and the right connectors, and made one. It runs from the bolt hole on the back of the alternator down to the ground stud on the block where the #2 battery ground meets the #2 frame ground. I think we are now truly grounded.

That skid plate look like a scoop! You’re coming along!

[Gary Lewis]

That skid plate look like a scoop! You’re coming along!

Yes, it certainly does. I'd noticed that before so I checked to see if it might have been on backwards. Not a chance - the bolt holes are different from side to side.

And yes, it is coming along. Let me think a bit about what is needed to start the engine:

• Clutch: I want to incorporate the hose that Jim sent between my master and slave - which is made of aluminum. Granted this isn't absolutely necessary before starting the engine, but it may make moving the truck easier as it will require re-bleeding the system, and it could use it.

• Fuel System: Need to determine what to do with the FDM's and install the tanks, pumps, lines, etc.

  And order the regulator and install it. This will require some figuring out of how to connect things.

• Oil System: Got the Brad Penn break-in oil today and can now fill the engine, spin the oil pump, and see that the pressure comes up w/o leaks and the gauges work.

• HVAC: Have to install the plenum, make the wiring changes, and hook up the heater hoses.

• Cooling System: With the heater hoses connected and, hopefully, the upper radiator hose installed, I can fill the cooling system.

• Power Steering: Need to fill the P/S system and bleed it. But I'm thinking that I should remove the belt to the P/S pump to ensure I don't have any issues while breaking in the cam. Then I can deal with that system in a less-stressful time.

Anyway, I think I see light at the end of the tunnel.

[grumpin]

Yes, it certainly does. I'd noticed that before so I checked to see if it might have been on backwards. Not a chance - the bolt holes are different from side to side.

And yes, it is coming along. Let me think a bit about what is needed to start the engine:

• Clutch: I want to incorporate the hose that Jim sent between my master and slave - which is made of aluminum. Granted this isn't absolutely necessary before starting the engine, but it may make moving the truck easier as it will require re-bleeding the system, and it could use it.

• Fuel System: Need to determine what to do with the FDM's and install the tanks, pumps, lines, etc.

  And order the regulator and install it. This will require some figuring out of how to connect things.

• Oil System: Got the Brad Penn break-in oil today and can now fill the engine, spin the oil pump, and see that the pressure comes up w/o leaks and the gauges work.

• HVAC: Have to install the plenum, make the wiring changes, and hook up the heater hoses.

• Cooling System: With the heater hoses connected and, hopefully, the upper radiator hose installed, I can fill the cooling system.

• Power Steering: Need to fill the P/S system and bleed it. But I'm thinking that I should remove the belt to the P/S pump to ensure I don't have any issues while breaking in the cam. Then I can deal with that system in a less-stressful time.

Anyway, I think I see light at the end of the tunnel.

I’m wondering what mine looks like. Didn’t pay much attention to the skid plate I guess.

It’s looking good!