Big Blue's Transformation

[85lebaront2]

Thanks, Bill. But I got a Gates 26392, which is a 2" to 1 3/3" adapter, yesterday and installed it. Came in from Amazon in about 36 hours. So the lower hose is on.

And the F5TZ-A upper hose should be in here soon. Oddly enough, someone on FB posted a pic of his hot-rod 460 today and it had the huge hump in the upper hose.

I have a question, why would you need a 2" to 1 3/3" adapter, aren't the the same size?

[Gary Lewis]

I have a question, why would you need a 2" to 1 3/3" adapter, aren't the the same size?

Bill - Although I have a degree in Math it is over 50 years old and I think it has worn out.

Jim - That's a good question. I'm shooting for August. Or at least before the show on Sept 19th. So let's set Sept 19th as the date. Why? Because Janey is getting cabin fever and she's already told the kids we are taking a road trip in Big Blue. Didn't say when, but I mentioned Colorado and after the show, and she bought in.

Thinking about it, here are the major things to do:

• Fuel System: I need to mount the tanks, add the FDM's, fuel lines, and regulator. And remove the resistor in the wiring to the pumps.

• Interior: I need to clean, sand, and paint the floor. Then add sound deadening and the carpet. Add a couple of shift levers and a seat. But preferably, paint the plastic before installing it.

• Engine: Start it and break it in.

• Driveline: Put the u-joints in the front shaft and install it.

• Exhaust: I'll bolt the old glass packs on, but I want a whole new system installed inc Magnaflows.

Does that seem doable in that time?

[ArdWrknTrk]

Bill - Although I have a degree in Math it is over 50 years old and I think it has worn out.

Jim - That's a good question. I'm shooting for August. Or at least before the show on Sept 19th. So let's set Sept 19th as the date. Why? Because Janey is getting cabin fever and she's already told the kids we are taking a road trip in Big Blue. Didn't say when, but I mentioned Colorado and after the show, and she bought in.

Thinking about it, here are the major things to do:

• Fuel System: I need to mount the tanks, add the FDM's, fuel lines, and regulator. And remove the resistor in the wiring to the pumps.

• Interior: I need to clean, sand, and paint the floor. Then add sound deadening and the carpet. Add a couple of shift levers and a seat. But preferably, paint the plastic before installing it.

• Engine: Start it and break it in.

• Driveline: Put the u-joints in the front shaft and install it.

• Exhaust: I'll bolt the old glass packs on, but I want a whole new system installed inc Magnaflows.

Does that seem doable in that time?

Gary,

That seems absolutely doable in that time.

As long as you don't head down too many new rabbit holes.

Heck I changed my U-joints in the NAPA parking lot Friday afternoon.

You have the fuel system components.

You even have a lift.

That shouldn't take too long.

Start prepping the interior plastic now.

I think your Garagemahal is air conditioned, so ridiculous humidity shouldn't get in your way.

I'm going to do a rough job with the floor of my truck when I get back.

Roloc or flap disc any corrosion (I KNOW the drivers side is all new)

Prep with phosphoric acid and rattle can Rustoleum Cherry Red.

Install new heat/sound insulation, amplifier & speaker wires, new mat

New seatbelt bolts.

I'm thinking that may turn into a weekend project with drying time.

Does the insulation care what the floor looks like as long as it's smooth and clean????

You have the MagnaFlows, correct?

Just bring it to a competent muffler shop to get the bends and hangers you want welded up.

Break-in is 20 minutes at 2,000 and 600 miles of putting pressure on the rings before you drop the oil.

You have almost two months and the clock is ticking......

 

[ArdWrknTrk]

Thanks, David. I might just give it a try. I think the black would help mask the carnage done by .

Ok, given that I had two 9/16" bolts, albeit too long, I installed the panhard bar using them and adjusted it. Didn't get it completely dialed in as I think I'm going to have to drive it a bit and let things settle before getting it nailed. But right now it looks like it is 1/4" too far to the passenger's side.

Then I moved on to the clutch linkage. Jim sent me a slave cylinder and heat shield/boot, and my first thought was I'd install that slave as it has a braided steel line and mine is plastic. But, my master/slave combo doesn't appear to come apart, and there are no fittings where I could use my master and Jim's slave. So I'll use my slave and his boot. Thanks, Jim!

But, somehow I'd gotten a lot of air in the system and I had absolutely no "pedal". After trying to use the old Mityvac (I've loaned out the new one) to pull fluid out of the bleeder screw on the slave I made a Rube Goldberg device. Turns out that the vent hole in the slave cap is just the right size for a basketball inflator needle. So I combined a low-pressure regulator and oil pressure gauge with the needle and stuck it through the cap.

Initially I tried it w/o the bladder in the master, but since it serves as the gasket for the cap that didn't work at all. Instead I was getting brake fluid out around the threads. So I put the bladder in with the expectation that it would expand with the pressure and push fluid out. And at about 10 psi it appears to have worked, albeit very very slowly. I'd bleed just a bit and then run out of pressure. Add more fluid and go again. Finally I got what may be reasonable pressure on the pedal, but it is still softer than I expected for a HD clutch. I guess I'll have to wait until I have the engine started and see.

Anyway, here's the contraption. I think I'm going to modify it as well as a cap to the brake master and use that combo to bleed the brakes.

And, after that I installed Jim's slave boot. Thanks again, Jim!

I missed this Gary, but where does your master line connect?

It doesn't have a roll pin???

Can you show a pic?

I want to see this.

[Gary Lewis]

Gary,

That seems absolutely doable in that time.

As long as you don't head down too many new rabbit holes.

Heck I changed my U-joints in the NAPA parking lot Friday afternoon.

You have the fuel system components.

You even have a lift.

That shouldn't take too long.

Start prepping the interior plastic now.

I think your Garagemahal is air conditioned, so ridiculous humidity shouldn't get in your way.

I'm going to do a rough job with the floor of my truck when I get back.

Roloc or flap disc any corrosion (I KNOW the drivers side is all new)

Prep with phosphoric acid and rattle can Rustoleum Cherry Red.

Install new heat/sound insulation, amplifier & speaker wires, new mat

New seatbelt bolts.

I'm thinking that may turn into a weekend project with drying time.

Does the insulation care what the floor looks like as long as it's smooth and clean????

You have the MagnaFlows, correct?

Just bring it to a competent muffler shop to get the bends and hangers you want welded up.

Break-in is 20 minutes at 2,000 and 600 miles of putting pressure on the rings before you drop the oil.

You have almost two months and the clock is ticking......

Jim - I'll see if I can get a pic today of the clutch master. But I'll confess that I saw the fitting on the line to your slave and when I couldn't find a fitting on the line to mine I assumed they don't come apart. I guess you are saying that there may be an o-ring that the line is held into by a roll pin?

For the cab floor, I have POR-15 so won't be using a rattle can. There's some surface rust, but the most of it is on the driver's side access plate to the front cab mount. So I can pull it, blast it, and either powder coat it or use POR. But at that point powder is much faster. The rest I'll hit with a wire brush in the drill to ensure anything loose is off, blow the dust off, and hit with POR.

But I don't have the Magnaflows. There's a muffler shop in Collinsville that is supposed to be really good, and I think I've seen a Magnaflow sign on the wall. We are headed to Owasso today to get groceries and doing some errands along the way. I think I'll stop and talk to the guy and see what he can do.

Yes, the clock is ticking. I'll try to ignore the rabbits that keep hopping by.

[Gary Lewis]

Jim - I'll see if I can get a pic today of the clutch master. But I'll confess that I saw the fitting on the line to your slave and when I couldn't find a fitting on the line to mine I assumed they don't come apart. I guess you are saying that there may be an o-ring that the line is held into by a roll pin?

For the cab floor, I have POR-15 so won't be using a rattle can. There's some surface rust, but the most of it is on the driver's side access plate to the front cab mount. So I can pull it, blast it, and either powder coat it or use POR. But at that point powder is much faster. The rest I'll hit with a wire brush in the drill to ensure anything loose is off, blow the dust off, and hit with POR.

But I don't have the Magnaflows. There's a muffler shop in Collinsville that is supposed to be really good, and I think I've seen a Magnaflow sign on the wall. We are headed to Owasso today to get groceries and doing some errands along the way. I think I'll stop and talk to the guy and see what he can do.

Yes, the clock is ticking. I'll try to ignore the rabbits that keep hopping by.

Early report today. First, while we were out I stopped at the muffler shop. They will do a custom install using Magnaflows when I get to that, so that's decided.

And, the brakes are D.O.N.E. I got a piece of 3/16" ID clear tube today and checked the rear brakes - no bubbles with hose that fit the bleeder screws. And I rechecked the front. Got a few bubbles out but then the bubbles were gone.

Meanwhile I got an email from Detroit Muscle Technologies and the HVAC gaskets are on their way - although not expected until next Wednesday.

Last, I did check the clutch master cylinder and there is a roll pin, as shown on the left. So, Jim, are you saying that the fitting on the right for the slave you sent will fit in there? And that the braided steel line is the way to go?

[ArdWrknTrk]

Early report today. First, while we were out I stopped at the muffler shop. They will do a custom install using Magnaflows when I get to that, so that's decided.

And, the brakes are D.O.N.E. I got a piece of 3/16" ID clear tube today and checked the rear brakes - no bubbles with hose that fit the bleeder screws. And I rechecked the front. Got a few bubbles out but then the bubbles were gone.

Meanwhile I got an email from Detroit Muscle Technologies and the HVAC gaskets are on their way - although not expected until next Wednesday.

Last, I did check the clutch master cylinder and there is a roll pin, as shown on the left. So, Jim, are you saying that the fitting on the right for the slave you sent will fit in there? And that the braided steel line is the way to go?

I'm no authority, but Ford decided to put a stainless braid, Teflon line with a reflective boot over the slave cylinder in that '95 Superduty, and they didn't do it without reason.

When you tap the pin out with a punch -be sure- you don't leave the old O-ring in there.

[Gary Lewis]

I'm no authority, but Ford decided to put a stainless braid, Teflon line with a reflective boot over the slave cylinder in that '95 Superduty, and they didn't do it without reason.

When you tap the pin out with a punch -be sure- you don't leave the old O-ring in there.

So, you think the Superduty line will fit that master cylinder? But, I don't have another o-ring. Or, was there one in the box that I missed?

Also, will that line fit my slave? The pin that holds the line in the slave is so rusted it doesn't want to come. Maybe I should just use that slave? Or, was that your intent?

As for what else I did, I said I wasn't going to install the exhaust until after the fuel system went in, but I realized that exhaust runs down the passenger's side and the fuel system down the driver's side. So I put the exhaust in place. Fortunately it fits ok, as you can see here.

I don't have the gaskets in, nor do I have the supports in place. But it is progress!

[1986F150Six]

So, you think the Superduty line will fit that master cylinder? But, I don't have another o-ring. Or, was there one in the box that I missed?

Also, will that line fit my slave? The pin that holds the line in the slave is so rusted it doesn't want to come. Maybe I should just use that slave? Or, was that your intent?

As for what else I did, I said I wasn't going to install the exhaust until after the fuel system went in, but I realized that exhaust runs down the passenger's side and the fuel system down the driver's side. So I put the exhaust in place. Fortunately it fits ok, as you can see here.

I don't have the gaskets in, nor do I have the supports in place. But it is progress!

Zoom zoom, boom boom!!! Ear plugs?

[ArdWrknTrk]

Zoom zoom, boom boom!!! Ear plugs?

Ch, ch, ch, ch, CHERRY BOMB! 💥💥💥

Gary, I know you don't like used parts.

I intended you'd use the line and boot, get the Excedy bleedable slave and use whatever master you had.

A metal line with a braided stainless flex section would give me a LOT of piece of mind.

An aluminum slave cylinder with the reflective boot has to be better than a black plastic slave an inch from the headers.

There's nothing special about the O-rings. They just have to resist glycol if that is the fluid you'd use.