Gary Lewis Posted July 21, 2020 Author Share Posted July 21, 2020 And while I was looking at this pic of the back of the grille I saw the nuts holding the Ford emblem on, which reminded me of my thought of painting the grille black. It would be easy to remove the emblem, spray it black, and put it back. But I wonder how a blue Ford emblem will look in a fully-black grille? I gave away the old grille off Dad's truck, but the 80/81 grille might have looked better than an 82/86 grille. Thoughts, ya'll? It will look just fine! Thanks, David. I might just give it a try. I think the black would help mask the carnage done by . Ok, given that I had two 9/16" bolts, albeit too long, I installed the panhard bar using them and adjusted it. Didn't get it completely dialed in as I think I'm going to have to drive it a bit and let things settle before getting it nailed. But right now it looks like it is 1/4" too far to the passenger's side. Then I moved on to the clutch linkage. Jim sent me a slave cylinder and heat shield/boot, and my first thought was I'd install that slave as it has a braided steel line and mine is plastic. But, my master/slave combo doesn't appear to come apart, and there are no fittings where I could use my master and Jim's slave. So I'll use my slave and his boot. Thanks, Jim! But, somehow I'd gotten a lot of air in the system and I had absolutely no "pedal". After trying to use the old Mityvac (I've loaned out the new one) to pull fluid out of the bleeder screw on the slave I made a Rube Goldberg device. Turns out that the vent hole in the slave cap is just the right size for a basketball inflator needle. So I combined a low-pressure regulator and oil pressure gauge with the needle and stuck it through the cap. Initially I tried it w/o the bladder in the master, but since it serves as the gasket for the cap that didn't work at all. Instead I was getting brake fluid out around the threads. So I put the bladder in with the expectation that it would expand with the pressure and push fluid out. And at about 10 psi it appears to have worked, albeit very very slowly. I'd bleed just a bit and then run out of pressure. Add more fluid and go again. Finally I got what may be reasonable pressure on the pedal, but it is still softer than I expected for a HD clutch. I guess I'll have to wait until I have the engine started and see. Anyway, here's the contraption. I think I'm going to modify it as well as a cap to the brake master and use that combo to bleed the brakes. And, after that I installed Jim's slave boot. Thanks again, Jim! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted July 21, 2020 Share Posted July 21, 2020 And while I was looking at this pic of the back of the grille I saw the nuts holding the Ford emblem on, which reminded me of my thought of painting the grille black. It would be easy to remove the emblem, spray it black, and put it back. But I wonder how a blue Ford emblem will look in a fully-black grille? I gave away the old grille off Dad's truck, but the 80/81 grille might have looked better than an 82/86 grille. Thoughts, ya'll? It will look just fine! My Custom has a black grille and a blue emblem. I think it's fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted July 21, 2020 Share Posted July 21, 2020 Thanks, David. I might just give it a try. I think the black would help mask the carnage done by . Ok, given that I had two 9/16" bolts, albeit too long, I installed the panhard bar using them and adjusted it. Didn't get it completely dialed in as I think I'm going to have to drive it a bit and let things settle before getting it nailed. But right now it looks like it is 1/4" too far to the passenger's side. Then I moved on to the clutch linkage. Jim sent me a slave cylinder and heat shield/boot, and my first thought was I'd install that slave as it has a braided steel line and mine is plastic. But, my master/slave combo doesn't appear to come apart, and there are no fittings where I could use my master and Jim's slave. So I'll use my slave and his boot. Thanks, Jim! But, somehow I'd gotten a lot of air in the system and I had absolutely no "pedal". After trying to use the old Mityvac (I've loaned out the new one) to pull fluid out of the bleeder screw on the slave I made a Rube Goldberg device. Turns out that the vent hole in the slave cap is just the right size for a basketball inflator needle. So I combined a low-pressure regulator and oil pressure gauge with the needle and stuck it through the cap. Initially I tried it w/o the bladder in the master, but since it serves as the gasket for the cap that didn't work at all. Instead I was getting brake fluid out around the threads. So I put the bladder in with the expectation that it would expand with the pressure and push fluid out. And at about 10 psi it appears to have worked, albeit very very slowly. I'd bleed just a bit and then run out of pressure. Add more fluid and go again. Finally I got what may be reasonable pressure on the pedal, but it is still softer than I expected for a HD clutch. I guess I'll have to wait until I have the engine started and see. Anyway, here's the contraption. I think I'm going to modify it as well as a cap to the brake master and use that combo to bleed the brakes. And, after that I installed Jim's slave boot. Thanks again, Jim! Gary, fluid flows down and the air bubbles will rise. Best bleeding I did on hydraulic clutches was from a Mercedes-Benz manual. Their clutch master sits at about the angle the rod from pedal to cross shaft sits on the older trucks. Bleeding from the top is impossible. The procedure says "using a piece of rubber tubing connect the slave cylinder bleed screw to the left front caliper bleed screw. Loosen the clutch slave bleed one turn, using a brake bleeder (pressure) crack the caliper bleed until all bubbles in the reservoir are gone." Of course the MB clutch master is fed from a nipple on the master cyl reservoir. I have bled many a hydraulic clutch that way and helped my supervisor in the lab do his X19 that using one of the rear brakes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted July 21, 2020 Share Posted July 21, 2020 Gary, fluid flows down and the air bubbles will rise. Best bleeding I did on hydraulic clutches was from a Mercedes-Benz manual. Their clutch master sits at about the angle the rod from pedal to cross shaft sits on the older trucks. Bleeding from the top is impossible. The procedure says "using a piece of rubber tubing connect the slave cylinder bleed screw to the left front caliper bleed screw. Loosen the clutch slave bleed one turn, using a brake bleeder (pressure) crack the caliper bleed until all bubbles in the reservoir are gone." Of course the MB clutch master is fed from a nipple on the master cyl reservoir. I have bled many a hydraulic clutch that way and helped my supervisor in the lab do his X19 that using one of the rear brakes. I have the aforementioned Excedy slave with bleeder. I just run the hose up into the MC. It bleeds itself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted July 21, 2020 Author Share Posted July 21, 2020 I have the aforementioned Excedy slave with bleeder. I just run the hose up into the MC. It bleeds itself. Thanks, guys. I did things somewhat backwards as I don't yet have any fluid in the brake system, so I couldn't use the MB procedure. But I do think I have the clutch system bled as well as I can at the moment and it'll take bouncing the truck to get the bubbles out - as you told me a few year ago. But tomorrow I'm going to put a hose barb on the extra brake master cylinder cap and bleed the brakes. However, I'm going to create a multi-purpose tool with which to do it. I realized this evening that I have a plumbed-up low-pressure regulator and gauge that I use for the air feed to my powder coating gun. But it is affixed to the wall. So, if I'd just put a quick disconnect on the wall and a fitting on that setup I could use it not only for powder coating but for bleeding hydraulic systems. It has a quick-disconnect on the output, so with one on the input I can carry it to the vehicle, connect it to the air hose, and pop in the right fitting. I don't know why I didn't think of it earlier today, but I did exactly the same thing with the high-pressure regulator and I use it for leak-down testing. So this is going to work out well. I'll show the results tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted July 21, 2020 Author Share Posted July 21, 2020 Thanks, guys. I did things somewhat backwards as I don't yet have any fluid in the brake system, so I couldn't use the MB procedure. But I do think I have the clutch system bled as well as I can at the moment and it'll take bouncing the truck to get the bubbles out - as you told me a few year ago. But tomorrow I'm going to put a hose barb on the extra brake master cylinder cap and bleed the brakes. However, I'm going to create a multi-purpose tool with which to do it. I realized this evening that I have a plumbed-up low-pressure regulator and gauge that I use for the air feed to my powder coating gun. But it is affixed to the wall. So, if I'd just put a quick disconnect on the wall and a fitting on that setup I could use it not only for powder coating but for bleeding hydraulic systems. It has a quick-disconnect on the output, so with one on the input I can carry it to the vehicle, connect it to the air hose, and pop in the right fitting. I don't know why I didn't think of it earlier today, but I did exactly the same thing with the high-pressure regulator and I use it for leak-down testing. So this is going to work out well. I'll show the results tomorrow. Time to update the list of to-do's from a couple of weeks ago: Electrical: This includes the wiring for the fuel pump, oil pressure sender, and the ignition. Given that some of it is on the firewall or back of the engine, I think it needs to be first. DONE HVAC: Assuming the gaskets are in, next I need to put the plenum on and change up the wiring. Still awaiting the gaskets. Lower Plenum (Intake Manifold): I need to install the plugs for the injector bungs, the various vacuum fittings, and the carb adapter to the lower plenum. DONE Cooling System: I need to install the bypass hose before I get anything else in the way. Then, with the HVAC plenum on, it is time to install the heater hoses, the thermostat, and the radiator hoses. Plus the bulb for the aftermarket temp gauge and see if I can find a place to install the factory sending unit so I can run both gauges. Bill - What is the part # for the upper radiator hose that doesn't kick up? Done, save for heater hoses and upper radiator hose, which is on order. Distributor: Have to get the dizzy to drop and ensure it is sitting on #1, then clamp it down. Awaiting the oil so I can pressurize the system through the dizzy's hole. Fuel System: Now may be the time to install the tanks, plural, and the FDM's, plumbing, and then the regulator, which I hope to put on the firewall. And with that done install the carb, throttle cable, and speed control. SOON, but the carb and throttle cables are on. Clutch: The clutch needs to be bled and the boot Jim sent installed. Or, maybe change out what's there with the whole system he sent, which has a stainless hose instead of the plastic that's on there. DONE Engine Oil Cooler: Finally, with all of the crawling up into the engine compartment over, it should be time to install the oil cooler. But to do that I need to also install the brackets for the hood latch and grille so I can properly position the cooler and route the hoses - without cutting the radiator support. DONE Exhaust: I have the glass packs, which are welded to the collectors, so they should bolt right on. But I don't want them on until after the fuel system is in place to ensure they won't get in the way. Awaiting fuel system. Brakes: The calipers are new and the master cylinder and lines have been replaced, so a lot of bleeding needs to be done. TOMORROW! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted July 22, 2020 Share Posted July 22, 2020 Time to update the list of to-do's from a couple of weeks ago: Electrical: This includes the wiring for the fuel pump, oil pressure sender, and the ignition. Given that some of it is on the firewall or back of the engine, I think it needs to be first. DONE HVAC: Assuming the gaskets are in, next I need to put the plenum on and change up the wiring. Still awaiting the gaskets. Lower Plenum (Intake Manifold): I need to install the plugs for the injector bungs, the various vacuum fittings, and the carb adapter to the lower plenum. DONE Cooling System: I need to install the bypass hose before I get anything else in the way. Then, with the HVAC plenum on, it is time to install the heater hoses, the thermostat, and the radiator hoses. Plus the bulb for the aftermarket temp gauge and see if I can find a place to install the factory sending unit so I can run both gauges. Bill - What is the part # for the upper radiator hose that doesn't kick up? Done, save for heater hoses and upper radiator hose, which is on order. Distributor: Have to get the dizzy to drop and ensure it is sitting on #1, then clamp it down. Awaiting the oil so I can pressurize the system through the dizzy's hole. Fuel System: Now may be the time to install the tanks, plural, and the FDM's, plumbing, and then the regulator, which I hope to put on the firewall. And with that done install the carb, throttle cable, and speed control. SOON, but the carb and throttle cables are on. Clutch: The clutch needs to be bled and the boot Jim sent installed. Or, maybe change out what's there with the whole system he sent, which has a stainless hose instead of the plastic that's on there. DONE Engine Oil Cooler: Finally, with all of the crawling up into the engine compartment over, it should be time to install the oil cooler. But to do that I need to also install the brackets for the hood latch and grille so I can properly position the cooler and route the hoses - without cutting the radiator support. DONE Exhaust: I have the glass packs, which are welded to the collectors, so they should bolt right on. But I don't want them on until after the fuel system is in place to ensure they won't get in the way. Awaiting fuel system. Brakes: The calipers are new and the master cylinder and lines have been replaced, so a lot of bleeding needs to be done. TOMORROW! Gary, found the picture I was looking for with the NAPA hose bushing PN. it is 902, if your source hasn't found it yet maybe this will help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted July 22, 2020 Author Share Posted July 22, 2020 Gary, found the picture I was looking for with the NAPA hose bushing PN. it is 902, if your source hasn't found it yet maybe this will help. Thanks, Bill. But I got a Gates 26392, which is a 2" to 1 3/3" adapter, yesterday and installed it. Came in from Amazon in about 36 hours. So the lower hose is on. And the F5TZ-A upper hose should be in here soon. Oddly enough, someone on FB posted a pic of his hot-rod 460 today and it had the huge hump in the upper hose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted July 22, 2020 Author Share Posted July 22, 2020 Thanks, Bill. But I got a Gates 26392, which is a 2" to 1 3/3" adapter, yesterday and installed it. Came in from Amazon in about 36 hours. So the lower hose is on. And the F5TZ-A upper hose should be in here soon. Oddly enough, someone on FB posted a pic of his hot-rod 460 today and it had the huge hump in the upper hose. Well, I made the brake bleeder tool today. And I wrote it up here: Gary's Brake Bleeding Tool. Then I used it, and we have brakes! As said in that thread, I am going to get different tubing that fits the bleeder screws tightly and make sure that what I was seeing in the rear on the smaller bleeder screws was air being sucked in at a loose fitting. And, I need to get more brake fluid. Speaking of brake fluid, I went through half of a gallon of it today! The reservoir itself takes a full quart. And then I went through a bit more than another quart getting the bubbles out. But the system was dry, so I shouldn't have been surprised. In any event, we do have brakes! And they feel quite firm. However, as the engine isn't running there's no boost, and that will change the "feel". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted July 22, 2020 Share Posted July 22, 2020 Well, I made the brake bleeder tool today. And I wrote it up here: Gary's Brake Bleeding Tool. Then I used it, and we have brakes! As said in that thread, I am going to get different tubing that fits the bleeder screws tightly and make sure that what I was seeing in the rear on the smaller bleeder screws was air being sucked in at a loose fitting. And, I need to get more brake fluid. Speaking of brake fluid, I went through half of a gallon of it today! The reservoir itself takes a full quart. And then I went through a bit more than another quart getting the bubbles out. But the system was dry, so I shouldn't have been surprised. In any event, we do have brakes! And they feel quite firm. However, as the engine isn't running there's no boost, and that will change the "feel". Progress is GOOD! What's the over under on a drive date? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts