Big Blue's Transformation

[kramttocs]

I'd never "use part of a sheet metal nut".

They are flimsy enough, and if it's not clipped over an edge it's bound to spin.

I would have said stud welder, but you went and drilled all the meat out...

Are you sure you can't go ALL the way through the rad support?

A carriage bolt would work if you used a nibbler or file to square up the back side hole.

A flange nut to the front (loctited) and another nut to hold the P-clamp off where you want it.

What is 8x1?

That's an oddball fine metric thread.

Going all the way through seems the easiest. I assume there's not enough room for a nutsert?

What about a piece of flat stock that spans the center upright bolt to the condenser bolt? Have it platform out in the middle to bring it closer to the cooler and thread a hole in it or nut/bolt.

[Gary Lewis]

I'd never "use part of a sheet metal nut".

They are flimsy enough, and if it's not clipped over an edge it's bound to spin.

I would have said stud welder, but you went and drilled all the meat out...

Are you sure you can't go ALL the way through the rad support?

A carriage bolt would work if you used a nibbler or file to square up the back side hole.

A flange nut to the front (loctited) and another nut to hold the P-clamp off where you want it.

What is 8x1?

That's an oddball fine metric thread.

Thanks, guys.

The drawing below attempts to depict what I'm seeing/feeling. The part in the middle has a radius to it on the edges, and while the hole is too close to it to get a regular nut on, I'm wondering if the sheet metal nut might get in because of the radius. But if that works the sheet metal nut couldn't spin because it would be up against the piece inside the radiator support. I'll give it a try tomorrow.

If not, the idea of a piece of metal bridged across that hole is a good one. But if that doesn't work I might be able to go all the way through as I think I'm far enough below the red piece to get through. And yes, there's no room for a nutsert.

As for the thread, I think I was wrong. I'll bet that was 6 x 1mm. It is the smaller of the two thread sizes used all over the radiator support.

On a positive note, I did in get the assortment of rubber-lined stainless hose clamps and I'm using three of the 5/8" ones for the oil cooler. And this evening the new hose came in. So when I get the route figured out I'll be ready to install it.

Speaking of that, the check I did today said that if I put 90s on I could come straight forward with the hoses just above the oil filter. But there wasn't any obvious way to support the hoses when running that way. So I'm leaning to going over toward the frame since that will give me a way to support the lines. But I'm still thinking about it.

[85lebaront2]

Thanks, guys.

The drawing below attempts to depict what I'm seeing/feeling. The part in the middle has a radius to it on the edges, and while the hole is too close to it to get a regular nut on, I'm wondering if the sheet metal nut might get in because of the radius. But if that works the sheet metal nut couldn't spin because it would be up against the piece inside the radiator support. I'll give it a try tomorrow.

If not, the idea of a piece of metal bridged across that hole is a good one. But if that doesn't work I might be able to go all the way through as I think I'm far enough below the red piece to get through. And yes, there's no room for a nutsert.

As for the thread, I think I was wrong. I'll bet that was 6 x 1mm. It is the smaller of the two thread sizes used all over the radiator support.

On a positive note, I did in get the assortment of rubber-lined stainless hose clamps and I'm using three of the 5/8" ones for the oil cooler. And this evening the new hose came in. So when I get the route figured out I'll be ready to install it.

Speaking of that, the check I did today said that if I put 90s on I could come straight forward with the hoses just above the oil filter. But there wasn't any obvious way to support the hoses when running that way. So I'm leaning to going over toward the frame since that will give me a way to support the lines. But I'm still thinking about it.

Mine just run forward and under the radiator support with the double clamp there, but mine are the factory Aeroquip style lines. BTW, the center joint seen in some of the pictures swivels along with the ones on the cooler. That way there is no stress on them.

[Gary Lewis]

I'd never "use part of a sheet metal nut".

They are flimsy enough, and if it's not clipped over an edge it's bound to spin.

I would have said stud welder, but you went and drilled all the meat out...

Are you sure you can't go ALL the way through the rad support?

A carriage bolt would work if you used a nibbler or file to square up the back side hole.

A flange nut to the front (loctited) and another nut to hold the P-clamp off where you want it.

What is 8x1?

That's an oddball fine metric thread.

Once the bottom of the cooler is secured I'll see if I can rotate the "stay" up on the crossmember to start the curve of the hoses earlier. That may allow them to be secured to the bottom of the radiator support with a couple more clamps, which might make the jump back to the engine reasonable. We shall see.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Thanks, guys.

The drawing below attempts to depict what I'm seeing/feeling. The part in the middle has a radius to it on the edges, and while the hole is too close to it to get a regular nut on, I'm wondering if the sheet metal nut might get in because of the radius. But if that works the sheet metal nut couldn't spin because it would be up against the piece inside the radiator support. I'll give it a try tomorrow.

If not, the idea of a piece of metal bridged across that hole is a good one. But if that doesn't work I might be able to go all the way through as I think I'm far enough below the red piece to get through. And yes, there's no room for a nutsert.

As for the thread, I think I was wrong. I'll bet that was 6 x 1mm. It is the smaller of the two thread sizes used all over the radiator support.

On a positive note, I did in get the assortment of rubber-lined stainless hose clamps and I'm using three of the 5/8" ones for the oil cooler. And this evening the new hose came in. So when I get the route figured out I'll be ready to install it.

Speaking of that, the check I did today said that if I put 90s on I could come straight forward with the hoses just above the oil filter. But there wasn't any obvious way to support the hoses when running that way. So I'm leaning to going over toward the frame since that will give me a way to support the lines. But I'm still thinking about it.

My rad support is different, but it has a LOT of 6x1.

So many, that I went and bought a box because some were in bad shape.

I think this way.

6mm, 1/4" (x1)

8mm, 5/16" (x1.25)

10mm, 3/8" (x1.5)

I lean toward simplicity and serviceability.

Which leads me away from extra anything, chips of spring steel hidden up inside things (unsecured) that shouldn't have things inside them, almost anything "custom" (that I can't get off the shelf at a Hardware or Auto Parts store)

Honestly, it's enough of a challenge without making work for myself or hurting my brain trying to figure out a more complicated way to accomplish my goal.

But I know how much you enjoy this.

I hope you understand this as observation, not criticism.

 

[Gary Lewis]

My rad support is different, but it has a LOT of 6x1.

So many, that I went and bought a box because some were in bad shape.

I think this way.

6mm, 1/4" (x1)

8mm, 5/16" (x1.25)

10mm, 3/8" (x1.5)

I lean toward simplicity and serviceability.

Which leads me away from extra anything, chips of spring steel hidden up inside things (unsecured) that shouldn't have things inside them, almost anything "custom" (that I can't get off the shelf at a Hardware or Auto Parts store)

Honestly, it's enough of a challenge without making work for myself or hurting my brain trying to figure out a more complicated way to accomplish my goal.

But I know how much you enjoy this.

I hope you understand this as observation, not criticism.

I understand. But my reasoning is that the stud is not meant to be removed. It is there to provide a firm attachment point for the hose clamp. So if I find a way to get a nut of any kind in there and it is sturdy, then I'm not worried about it serviceability as it isn't coming off. In fact, it'll probably be Loctited on.

I did come up with another option during the night - a square nut. There's an access hole not far away that I can get through to put the nut in position. So if I can secure the nut in the end of a small wrench using paper towel then I might be able to put it in place.

We shall see - after while.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I understand. But my reasoning is that the stud is not meant to be removed. It is there to provide a firm attachment point for the hose clamp. So if I find a way to get a nut of any kind in there and it is sturdy, then I'm not worried about it serviceability as it isn't coming off. In fact, it'll probably be Loctited on.

I did come up with another option during the night - a square nut. There's an access hole not far away that I can get through to put the nut in position. So if I can secure the nut in the end of a small wrench using paper towel then I might be able to put it in place.

We shall see - after while.

I understand too.

That's why a said that since the one hole is already there why not go all the way, and then loctite a flange nut up against the front side of the rad support.

[Gary Lewis]

I understand too.

That's why a said that since the one hole is already there why not go all the way, and then loctite a flange nut up against the front side of the rad support.

Well, the square nut worked. Here are a couple of shots. First a closeup and you can see the Loctite on the nut - just like there is on the square nut. It isn't coming off.

And this one shows, as best as I can capture, the 1/4" space between the cooler and the condensor.

Now the cooler and stay are coming off to be painted/powder coated. And a whole bunch of the 6 x 1mm fasteners as well as some of the parts for the grille mounting......

[Gary Lewis]

Well, the square nut worked. Here are a couple of shots. First a closeup and you can see the Loctite on the nut - just like there is on the square nut. It isn't coming off.

And this one shows, as best as I can capture, the 1/4" space between the cooler and the condensor.

Now the cooler and stay are coming off to be painted/powder coated. And a whole bunch of the 6 x 1mm fasteners as well as some of the parts for the grille mounting......

After getting the stud installed I pulled all the parts, media-blasted them, and powder coated them. Here's the hose stay and clamp after PC'ing:

And I got tired of PC'ing fasteners one or two at a time, so these are the ones left over after installing a few things:

And here are a few of the other things that got PC'd, including the hood latch bracket and the two grille brackets on either side. Oh, and the oil cooler got a couple of coats of BBQ paint.

Here is the hose stay installed as well as the lower oil cooler mount:

And now that you've seen all the nice, shiny stuff, here's the filler panel. Ugly! But it is too long to go in the blast cabinet. I'm seriously considering using the one for Dad's truck, which has been painted, and have this one painted for Dad's truck. Thoughts?

[Gary Lewis]

After getting the stud installed I pulled all the parts, media-blasted them, and powder coated them. Here's the hose stay and clamp after PC'ing:

And I got tired of PC'ing fasteners one or two at a time, so these are the ones left over after installing a few things:

And here are a few of the other things that got PC'd, including the hood latch bracket and the two grille brackets on either side. Oh, and the oil cooler got a couple of coats of BBQ paint.

Here is the hose stay installed as well as the lower oil cooler mount:

And now that you've seen all the nice, shiny stuff, here's the filler panel. Ugly! But it is too long to go in the blast cabinet. I'm seriously considering using the one for Dad's truck, which has been painted, and have this one painted for Dad's truck. Thoughts?

Got the oil filter/cooler adapter and hose routing figured out. Turns out that routing the hoses outboard toward the frame gets them w/in an inch of the header, so I decided to go straight forward. Given that I pulled the adapter and played with fittings until I got what I wanted.

It looks a bit bizarre, but by using 45's the turns are much more gentle and the position works out just right. Here it is out of the truck:

And here it is installed in the truck:

But just before I started to install the hoses I thought I'd better put the lower radiator hose on to see where it goes. Glad I did 'cause that determines where the oil cooler hoses can go.

However, you can't tell from that pic but the hose is not the right one. Turns out that the 1993+ water pumps have a smaller outlet than the earlier pumps, so the old hose won't fit. That got me to wondering about the upper hose, so I checked. Yuk!

So I called Skiatook Auto Parts, where our guy DeWayne works, and talked to David. He thinks he has the F5TZ-A hose that Bill thinks is the one w/o the kickup. And, he thinks he has the '93+ lower hose. So Monday I'm headed there with the old hoses. And I'll pick up new heater hose, a thermostat, thermostat housing gasket, and coolant.

Last, I emailed with Scotty about break-in oil. Here's what he said:

Use a break in specific oil. 10 / 30 or 40 depending on your bearing clearances.

Penn, amsoil, gibbs are all fine.

You will need to use a hot rod oil for flat tappet cams for the life of the engine.

Do NOT USE shelf oil with ZDDP additive. You will void your cam warranty.

So, what do y'all think about oil? I'm thinking I'll order the Brad Penn Break-In Oil since I have 8 quarts of Brad Penn 30W-40 to use after that.