Big Blue's Transformation

[Machspeed]

I think I'll be running the carb for some time, far beyond break-in. And I want to put some miles on it. In fact, I have a dream that I've not typed nor voiced, and that is to take Big Blue to Colorado this fall. So speed control would be a big help.

As for the EFI cables, yes I saw that. And I should have those cables as well.

Gary, your road trip to Colorado got me thinking about what kind of fuel mileage you think you'll be getting with Big Blue? Noted that you have a ZF5 transmission in that truck, wondering if that was original? Sorry, but I've only skimmed your build.

I ask these questions, as I've considered ways to lower the RPM's and improve fuel mileage in my own truck. I don't have a tac in my truck but above 55 mph fuel consumption really dips. The transmission is an automatic with no overdrive and I too have 3.55 gear ratio.

 

[Gary Lewis]

I think I'll be running the carb for some time, far beyond break-in. And I want to put some miles on it. In fact, I have a dream that I've not typed nor voiced, and that is to take Big Blue to Colorado this fall. So speed control would be a big help.

As for the EFI cables, yes I saw that. And I should have those cables as well.

Gary, your road trip to Colorado got me thinking about what kind of fuel mileage you think you'll be getting with Big Blue? Noted that you have a ZF5 transmission in that truck, wondering if that was original? Sorry, but I've only skimmed your build.

I ask these questions, as I've considered ways to lower the RPM's and improve fuel mileage in my own truck. I don't have a tac in my truck but above 55 mph fuel consumption really dips. The transmission is an automatic with no overdrive and I too have 3.55 gear ratio.

 

John - In my estimation the C6 is the worst of all the transmissions for MPG. The lack of an overdrive and a lockup torque converter make it a poor choice for economy.

Big Blue had a T-19 and a badly worn out engine, but at 65 MPH I could almost get 12 MPG. Almost, but not quite. Usually more like 11.5 to 11.7. But with the fresh engine, albeit with a carb, and the overdrive I think I may be able to squeeze out 13 to 13.5. And when the EFI goes on I'm hoping for 14.0 - on the road at 65 MPH.

Anyway, I'm glad the ICVR thing worked out for you. I think there are now purpose-made ones for sale, but I recently made another of those for Big Blue 'cause they work so well.

[Machspeed]

Anyway, I'm glad the ICVR thing worked out for you. I think there are now purpose-made ones for sale, but I recently made another of those for Big Blue 'cause they work so well.

Not sure I'm following you on the above, Gary. What did you make?

Yeah, everything I've read regarding my transmission configuration concurs with what you said. The transmission is a good trans but I'm so limited with it. My truck was built for the 55 MPH speed limit of its day.

Say, recommendations for salvage yards in our area that may have parts for our trucks? I'm off for a few days and wish to look for a couple of things.

[Gary Lewis]

Anyway, I'm glad the ICVR thing worked out for you. I think there are now purpose-made ones for sale, but I recently made another of those for Big Blue 'cause they work so well.

Not sure I'm following you on the above, Gary. What did you make?

Yeah, everything I've read regarding my transmission configuration concurs with what you said. The transmission is a good trans but I'm so limited with it. My truck was built for the 55 MPH speed limit of its day.

Say, recommendations for salvage yards in our area that may have parts for our trucks? I'm off for a few days and wish to look for a couple of things.

Oops, my bad. I thought you asked about the ICVR, but it was someone else.

But if you want to see what I did there's a page at Documentation/Electrical/ICVR. I recently made one for Big Blue, but there may be commercial ones available now.

As for the transmission, I paid $500 for a ZF5-42, BW1356, and associated driveshafts and clutch. But that was several years ago and the prices have gone up. However, that tranny had some problems, like the 3rd gear synchros were toast and the reverse gear was broken, which caused it to absolutely refuse to go into reverse at certain points on the gear. So you made sure to not stop up against something 'cause there were times you absolutely had to roll forward in order to get into reverse.

And I've heard that many people have had at least synchro problems and frequently reverse gear problems. So I think if I were to do it again I'd buy a rebuilt. Midwest Transmissions is where I bought my parts and they really seem to know their stuff. They offer a completely rebuilt ZF5 for $1860 plus shipping. But I don't know if that is with a core or not. If not, I'd go that way next time as it cost me $1000 for parts and labor for a rebuild on mine, with no warranty.

[salans7]

Oops, my bad. I thought you asked about the ICVR, but it was someone else.

But if you want to see what I did there's a page at Documentation/Electrical/ICVR. I recently made one for Big Blue, but there may be commercial ones available now.

As for the transmission, I paid $500 for a ZF5-42, BW1356, and associated driveshafts and clutch. But that was several years ago and the prices have gone up. However, that tranny had some problems, like the 3rd gear synchros were toast and the reverse gear was broken, which caused it to absolutely refuse to go into reverse at certain points on the gear. So you made sure to not stop up against something 'cause there were times you absolutely had to roll forward in order to get into reverse.

And I've heard that many people have had at least synchro problems and frequently reverse gear problems. So I think if I were to do it again I'd buy a rebuilt. Midwest Transmissions is where I bought my parts and they really seem to know their stuff. They offer a completely rebuilt ZF5 for $1860 plus shipping. But I don't know if that is with a core or not. If not, I'd go that way next time as it cost me $1000 for parts and labor for a rebuild on mine, with no warranty.

All Ford manual transmissions seem to struggle with 3rd gear synchros, including the M5OD in my Ranger. But then again it has about 200k, and it will still go into 3rd if I rev match, and if it's cold. So it hasn't gotten that bad yet.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Oops, my bad. I thought you asked about the ICVR, but it was someone else.

But if you want to see what I did there's a page at Documentation/Electrical/ICVR. I recently made one for Big Blue, but there may be commercial ones available now.

As for the transmission, I paid $500 for a ZF5-42, BW1356, and associated driveshafts and clutch. But that was several years ago and the prices have gone up. However, that tranny had some problems, like the 3rd gear synchros were toast and the reverse gear was broken, which caused it to absolutely refuse to go into reverse at certain points on the gear. So you made sure to not stop up against something 'cause there were times you absolutely had to roll forward in order to get into reverse.

And I've heard that many people have had at least synchro problems and frequently reverse gear problems. So I think if I were to do it again I'd buy a rebuilt. Midwest Transmissions is where I bought my parts and they really seem to know their stuff. They offer a completely rebuilt ZF5 for $1860 plus shipping. But I don't know if that is with a core or not. If not, I'd go that way next time as it cost me $1000 for parts and labor for a rebuild on mine, with no warranty.

Popping out of reverse is a classic Zf sign.

Mine isn't doing that yet, but it rattles in neutral and is lugged.

(and I don't have a diesel)

[Gary Lewis]

Popping out of reverse is a classic Zf sign.

Mine isn't doing that yet, but it rattles in neutral and is lugged.

(and I don't have a diesel)

Ok guys, I need some help thinking through this. I have the speed control cable bracket mocked up, as shown below, and before I weld it up I want several others to look it over, please.

Two questions:

1. Is there a better way to do this? Like other metal shapes that would make it cleaner?

2. Does the layout seem to work for you? It does for me, but...

I ask because I'm not placing the speed control bracket in the same position relative to the throttle bracket as the factory does. Here are the differences:

ITEM FACTORY GARY

Distance to rear: 2 7/8" 1 3/4"

Distance to side: 1 3/8" 7/8"

Height difference: .042" .000"

But, it really appears to work. It will pull the throttle to where the secondaries are ready to open and not go farther, but that is just because it runs out of travel. And since I have the required amount of slack in it, which is 1/16 to 1/8", there's nothing more to be done.

Here it is mocked up:

And here's a comparison of mine vs the factory bracket, where you can see the difference in the speed control brackets:

[Gary Lewis]

Ok guys, I need some help thinking through this. I have the speed control cable bracket mocked up, as shown below, and before I weld it up I want several others to look it over, please.

Two questions:

1. Is there a better way to do this? Like other metal shapes that would make it cleaner?

2. Does the layout seem to work for you? It does for me, but...

I ask because I'm not placing the speed control bracket in the same position relative to the throttle bracket as the factory does. Here are the differences:

ITEM FACTORY GARY

Distance to rear: 2 7/8" 1 3/4"

Distance to side: 1 3/8" 7/8"

Height difference: .042" .000"

But, it really appears to work. It will pull the throttle to where the secondaries are ready to open and not go farther, but that is just because it runs out of travel. And since I have the required amount of slack in it, which is 1/16 to 1/8", there's nothing more to be done.

Here it is mocked up:

And here's a comparison of mine vs the factory bracket, where you can see the difference in the speed control brackets:

Well, apparently I stumped the chumps, as Click & Clack would have said. So I assumed that no response means you agree and proceeded on with my plans. However, I had noticed that in a previous pic the throttle cable was bent tightly and coming to the throttle linkage at an angle. You can see it here:

With a bit of testing I found that the throttle cable needed to go inboard at least 1/4" on the bracket, which would relieve the bend a bit and bring the cable directly to the carb's throttle. So I decided to make a new bracket. That took most of the day, but I did get it done and then positioned the speed control bracket and got it where I wanted it.

Here is a pic of the bracket from the back on the carb on the bench showing that the linkages go directly to the carb's linkage. And in this pic I've tacked the brackets together.

And here's a shot from the side showing that they line up that way as well.

And here are a couple of pics of the tacked-up bracket by itself. Tomorrow I may get to finish the welding and then, one of these days, I'll blast and powder-coat it.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Well, apparently I stumped the chumps, as Click & Clack would have said. So I assumed that no response means you agree and proceeded on with my plans. However, I had noticed that in a previous pic the throttle cable was bent tightly and coming to the throttle linkage at an angle. You can see it here:

With a bit of testing I found that the throttle cable needed to go inboard at least 1/4" on the bracket, which would relieve the bend a bit and bring the cable directly to the carb's throttle. So I decided to make a new bracket. That took most of the day, but I did get it done and then positioned the speed control bracket and got it where I wanted it.

Here is a pic of the bracket from the back on the carb on the bench showing that the linkages go directly to the carb's linkage. And in this pic I've tacked the brackets together.

And here's a shot from the side showing that they line up that way as well.

And here are a couple of pics of the tacked-up bracket by itself. Tomorrow I may get to finish the welding and then, one of these days, I'll blast and powder-coat it.

No chump stumping here.

I know you saw it too.

We're it me I probably would have made a kerf with a whizz wheel in the forward flange and folded it closed.

Check for angle and done it again if need be.

MIG up the slot and Robert's your mom's sibling.

[grumpin]

No chump stumping here.

I know you saw it too.

We're it me I probably would have made a kerf with a whizz wheel in the forward flange and folded it closed.

Check for angle and done it again if need be.

MIG up the slot and Robert's your mom's sibling.

Looks good!