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Big Blue's Transformation


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Yep. When I got his truck the front/outside bearing had been lubed that way.

But I didn't do that on this one. It is a NAPA replacement and runs very smoothly. But while I had the fan off I sat the motor in the vise so the shaft was vertical and put some light machine oil on the bearing and moved the shaft up and down. Then I let it sit on there to seep in and later wiped the excess off.

Anyway, thanks! When I get the side cover sealed I'll be ready to install it. Just have to get the gaskets from James at Detroit Muscle Technologies.

I guess I haven't related that story here. I had a particularly bad time communicating with James, which you can read about here. But that appears to be due to two things: First, he's swamped due to everyone staying home due to the virus and working on projects; second because he is relying on people ordering from the website, but I just wanted two pieces that he didn't have listed separately so I couldn't order them.

In the end he is sending them gratis. :nabble_smiley_good:

Not a lot to show for the day, but still chipping away. Got the evap unit in the plenum and the cover on with The Right Stuff sealing it all but with PAM ensuring TRS doesn't stick to the aluminum foil tape.

But, there was a downside I'd not thought of - TRS won't stick to the parts, so it is hard to get it in the right place. In fact, I had to put the plenum in a position where most of the joints were horizontal. But, I did get it in and the cover on and clamped, as shown here:

Plenum_Sealed.thumb.jpg.16725fd63584b34ab5e13157a087efab.jpg

Then I turned to the condenser, which had been hitting the radiator support. Had thought about cutting one or the other, but instead moved the brace up by re-drilling the screw holes as shown here:

Condenser_Clears_Radiator_Support.thumb.jpg.cd77a137ad055c5b0d1a763d342dd265.jpg

That let me put the condenser in, and then the radiator in. That clears the way for installing the shroud and fan, which then means I can install the belts. Maybe tomorrow.

Radiator_Is_In.thumb.jpg.c64a2a07fc4b8a6463079d32b5d216e9.jpg

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Not a lot to show for the day, but still chipping away. Got the evap unit in the plenum and the cover on with The Right Stuff sealing it all but with PAM ensuring TRS doesn't stick to the aluminum foil tape.

But, there was a downside I'd not thought of - TRS won't stick to the parts, so it is hard to get it in the right place. In fact, I had to put the plenum in a position where most of the joints were horizontal. But, I did get it in and the cover on and clamped, as shown here:

Then I turned to the condenser, which had been hitting the radiator support. Had thought about cutting one or the other, but instead moved the brace up by re-drilling the screw holes as shown here:

That let me put the condenser in, and then the radiator in. That clears the way for installing the shroud and fan, which then means I can install the belts. Maybe tomorrow.

To paraphrase many of us rocket geeks "Gravity is a harsh mistress!"

But, that's why I said 'coat one side.'

All that matters is that you don't glue your box shut for eternity.

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To paraphrase many of us rocket geeks "Gravity is a harsh mistress!"

But, that's why I said 'coat one side.'

All that matters is that you don't glue your box shut for eternity.

I didn't think about that aspect of it, Jim. :nabble_smiley_blush:

But I'm pretty sure it isn't glued together for eternity. However, it is glued together to some extent 'cause I pulled two of the screws down pretty tight and the rest of that side didn't suck down as much. So after a bit I loosened the screws and it didn't change anything at all. Given that, I put another c-clamp on to pull the rest of that side together.

It should be set up fairly well tomorrow, but the vacuum line grommet didn't set up completely for at least 24 hours. However, I checked it out closely today and it has turned into a chuck of rubber. Silicon rubber. Hard but resilient.

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I didn't think about that aspect of it, Jim. :nabble_smiley_blush:

But I'm pretty sure it isn't glued together for eternity. However, it is glued together to some extent 'cause I pulled two of the screws down pretty tight and the rest of that side didn't suck down as much. So after a bit I loosened the screws and it didn't change anything at all. Given that, I put another c-clamp on to pull the rest of that side together.

It should be set up fairly well tomorrow, but the vacuum line grommet didn't set up completely for at least 24 hours. However, I checked it out closely today and it has turned into a chuck of rubber. Silicon rubber. Hard but resilient.

Got the fan and shroud installed today. But in doing so I realized that the top flanges on the shroud have a recess that can cause it to crack when torqued down. In fact you can see that the one in the left did just that. But I added a washer in between to ensure it isn't damaged any more, as you can see on the right.

Shroud_without_Washer.thumb.jpg.f5ef96703076e1c659346113b20e7ca9.jpgShroud_with_Washer.thumb.jpg.e478b71823972abde860e1b32b6fb063.jpg

That let me then put the belts on, as shown here:

Radiator_Fan__Shroud_Are_In__Belts_On.thumb.jpg.ede2e6e34a1259f0dcecae80812f568a.jpg

And then I turned to the oil cooler. The first step was to straighten the fins, which took quite a while. Then I held it up to the condenser and realized I don't really know where to put it w/o the various brackets bolted to the radiator support. So I pulled out the hood latch support and cleaned it up, and as I did my paper towel ripped on something sharp. Can you pick out where :nabble_florida-man-42_orig: has been? Guess I'll be replacing yet another part as I want nothing remaining of his handiwork.

Hood_Latch_Brace_-_Florida_Man.thumb.jpg.2d4cef90a03c65e3c48915c2760b3924.jpg

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Got the fan and shroud installed today. But in doing so I realized that the top flanges on the shroud have a recess that can cause it to crack when torqued down. In fact you can see that the one in the left did just that. But I added a washer in between to ensure it isn't damaged any more, as you can see on the right.

That let me then put the belts on, as shown here:

And then I turned to the oil cooler. The first step was to straighten the fins, which took quite a while. Then I held it up to the condenser and realized I don't really know where to put it w/o the various brackets bolted to the radiator support. So I pulled out the hood latch support and cleaned it up, and as I did my paper towel ripped on something sharp. Can you pick out where :nabble_florida-man-42_orig: has been? Guess I'll be replacing yet another part as I want nothing remaining of his handiwork.

That's just the enhanced air flow version.:nabble_smiley_beam:

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That's just the enhanced air flow version.:nabble_smiley_beam:

LOL! Maybe I should trim some more?

Ok, I need to do some thinking/brainstorming so I can determine the order in which I need to do things. At first blush, here are the categories and the order in which I think I need to do things:

  • Electrical: This includes the wiring for the fuel pump, oil pressure sender, and the ignition. Given that some of it is on the firewall or back of the engine, I think it needs to be first.

  • HVAC: Assuming the gaskets are in, next I need to put the plenum on and change up the wiring.

  • Lower Plenum (Intake Manifold): I need to install the plugs for the injector bungs, the various vacuum fittings, and the carb adapter to the lower plenum.

  • Cooling System: I need to install the bypass hose before I get anything else in the way. Then, with the HVAC plenum on, it is time to install the heater hoses, the thermostat, and the radiator hoses. Plus the bulb for the aftermarket temp gauge and see if I can find a place to install the factory sending unit so I can run both gauges. Bill - What is the part # for the upper radiator hose that doesn't kick up?

  • Distributor: Have to get the dizzy to drop and ensure it is sitting on #1, then clamp it down.

  • Fuel System: Now may be the time to install the tanks, plural, and the FDM's, plumbing, and then the regulator, which I hope to put on the firewall. And with that done install the carb, throttle cable, and speed control.

  • Clutch: The clutch needs to be bled and the boot Jim sent installed. Or, maybe change out what's there with the whole system he sent, which has a stainless hose instead of the plastic that's on there.

  • Engine Oil Cooler: Finally, with all of the crawling up into the engine compartment over, it should be time to install the oil cooler. But to do that I need to also install the brackets for the hood latch and grille so I can properly position the cooler and route the hoses - without cutting the radiator support.

  • Exhaust: I have the glass packs, which are welded to the collectors, so they should bolt right on. But I don't want them on until after the fuel system is in place to ensure they won't get in the way.

  • Brakes: The calipers are new and the master cylinder and lines have been replaced, so a lot of bleeding needs to be done.

And after all that I need to add LOTS of fluids, inc power steering, front diff, transmission, transfer case, engine oil, and coolant. :nabble_smiley_oh:

So, what have I missed? What needs to change in the order?

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LOL! Maybe I should trim some more?

Ok, I need to do some thinking/brainstorming so I can determine the order in which I need to do things. At first blush, here are the categories and the order in which I think I need to do things:

  • Electrical: This includes the wiring for the fuel pump, oil pressure sender, and the ignition. Given that some of it is on the firewall or back of the engine, I think it needs to be first.

  • HVAC: Assuming the gaskets are in, next I need to put the plenum on and change up the wiring.

  • Lower Plenum (Intake Manifold): I need to install the plugs for the injector bungs, the various vacuum fittings, and the carb adapter to the lower plenum.

  • Cooling System: I need to install the bypass hose before I get anything else in the way. Then, with the HVAC plenum on, it is time to install the heater hoses, the thermostat, and the radiator hoses. Plus the bulb for the aftermarket temp gauge and see if I can find a place to install the factory sending unit so I can run both gauges. Bill - What is the part # for the upper radiator hose that doesn't kick up?

  • Distributor: Have to get the dizzy to drop and ensure it is sitting on #1, then clamp it down.

  • Fuel System: Now may be the time to install the tanks, plural, and the FDM's, plumbing, and then the regulator, which I hope to put on the firewall. And with that done install the carb, throttle cable, and speed control.

  • Clutch: The clutch needs to be bled and the boot Jim sent installed. Or, maybe change out what's there with the whole system he sent, which has a stainless hose instead of the plastic that's on there.

  • Engine Oil Cooler: Finally, with all of the crawling up into the engine compartment over, it should be time to install the oil cooler. But to do that I need to also install the brackets for the hood latch and grille so I can properly position the cooler and route the hoses - without cutting the radiator support.

  • Exhaust: I have the glass packs, which are welded to the collectors, so they should bolt right on. But I don't want them on until after the fuel system is in place to ensure they won't get in the way.

  • Brakes: The calipers are new and the master cylinder and lines have been replaced, so a lot of bleeding needs to be done.

And after all that I need to add LOTS of fluids, inc power steering, front diff, transmission, transfer case, engine oil, and coolant. :nabble_smiley_oh:

So, what have I missed? What needs to change in the order?

Gary, Ford has 3 different hoses listed from 1991-1997, first is F1TZ-B for 1991 only, then F2TZ-D for 1992-94 and finally F5TZ-A which is probably what I have on Darth, it was pulled off a 1995 F250 at Pik-n-Pull in VB. I can verify if there is a number on it tomorrow.

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Gary, Ford has 3 different hoses listed from 1991-1997, first is F1TZ-B for 1991 only, then F2TZ-D for 1992-94 and finally F5TZ-A which is probably what I have on Darth, it was pulled off a 1995 F250 at Pik-n-Pull in VB. I can verify if there is a number on it tomorrow.

Ok, Bill. I'll wait to see what you find. But if you don't find a number I'll go with F5TZ-A. Thanks!

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Ok, Bill. I'll wait to see what you find. But if you don't find a number I'll go with F5TZ-A. Thanks!

Got quite a bit done today, although some of it isn't easily seen.

I started with the coolant overflow hose, and the one that was on BB was pretty flimsy and liked to kink on the 180 turn to go into the expansion tank. So I found another one that was better, cleaned it up, and screwed one of the fancy stainless/rubber clamps on the side of the auxiliary battery bracket to hold the hose. And while I was "plumbing" I added the windshield washer hose and routed it neatly.

Then I turned to the "electrical" work, as described yesterday. But I quickly realized that as I put the various wires in place I was burying the lower plenum, thereby making access to the various things there difficult. So I turned to that stuff and got the injector bungs plugged, the vacuum fitting installed, and the excess vacuum ports plugged. And, while I was at it I discovered that there are two coolant sender ports in the EFI plenum, so one of them got the aftermarket fitting and the other got the Bullnose temp sender. And all of those things got treated with Jim's favorite thread sealant - PST.

Now, with the lower level stuff done I went back to the electrical. The oil pressure "manifold" screwed into the block at the back and the Bullnose oil pressure sender, the aftermarket gauge tube, and the oil pressure switch were re-installed in it, using PST. Then I laid the wiring harness from the ignition module's area over onto the engine and connected up the oil pressure switch and sender, added a horseshoe connector to the coil wiring instead of the eyelets that were there, and connected the coolant temp sender.

At that point it looked like it was time to move on to the carb. First came the EFI/carb adapter, then the carb itself. That went so well that I thought I'd try the dual-snorkel air cleaner, but then I realized that I needed to install the A/C lines to/from the compressor. Oops, I made the air cleaner to fit using the old style compressor. Here's a pic on the left with the driver's side snorkel going over the lines, and the one on the right is with it under. Neither work, but I might be able to make another one with the snorkel farther aft and go under.

Air_Cleaner_Snorkel_Over_AC_Line.thumb.jpg.565eddb48736a17e4617c0d0ddbf3490.jpgAir_Cleaner_Snorkel_Under_AC_Line.thumb.jpg.58ab09fa44fcd3a48b07f17367bb031d.jpg

And, here's what things looks like. Basically I got both the "electrical" and "lower plenum" tasks from yesterday's list done.

Carb_Is_On__Wiring_Is_Done.thumb.jpg.d0053b36fe8b59f28421eb9372228442.jpg

 

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Got quite a bit done today, although some of it isn't easily seen.

I started with the coolant overflow hose, and the one that was on BB was pretty flimsy and liked to kink on the 180 turn to go into the expansion tank. So I found another one that was better, cleaned it up, and screwed one of the fancy stainless/rubber clamps on the side of the auxiliary battery bracket to hold the hose. And while I was "plumbing" I added the windshield washer hose and routed it neatly.

Then I turned to the "electrical" work, as described yesterday. But I quickly realized that as I put the various wires in place I was burying the lower plenum, thereby making access to the various things there difficult. So I turned to that stuff and got the injector bungs plugged, the vacuum fitting installed, and the excess vacuum ports plugged. And, while I was at it I discovered that there are two coolant sender ports in the EFI plenum, so one of them got the aftermarket fitting and the other got the Bullnose temp sender. And all of those things got treated with Jim's favorite thread sealant - PST.

Now, with the lower level stuff done I went back to the electrical. The oil pressure "manifold" screwed into the block at the back and the Bullnose oil pressure sender, the aftermarket gauge tube, and the oil pressure switch were re-installed in it, using PST. Then I laid the wiring harness from the ignition module's area over onto the engine and connected up the oil pressure switch and sender, added a horseshoe connector to the coil wiring instead of the eyelets that were there, and connected the coolant temp sender.

At that point it looked like it was time to move on to the carb. First came the EFI/carb adapter, then the carb itself. That went so well that I thought I'd try the dual-snorkel air cleaner, but then I realized that I needed to install the A/C lines to/from the compressor. Oops, I made the air cleaner to fit using the old style compressor. Here's a pic on the left with the driver's side snorkel going over the lines, and the one on the right is with it under. Neither work, but I might be able to make another one with the snorkel farther aft and go under.

And, here's what things looks like. Basically I got both the "electrical" and "lower plenum" tasks from yesterday's list done.

Gary,

Did you see the F250 Bullnose that Christopher Lott just listed for sale? It reminded me of your truck. It's gorgeous!

https://austin.craigslist.org/cto/d/austin-1986-f250-4x4-lariat-460/7152657538.html

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