Big Blue's Transformation

[Gary Lewis]

I have yet to even touch the outers on my D60 due to my lack of an appropriate socket for the lock nuts. However, I have the older style manual hubs, so I either have a conversion kit or factory manual hubs.

Shaun - One thing I read said that the lockouts held on with three screws are the auto style. But mine are held on by three screws and clearly have a knob. Is that a conversion?

[ArdWrknTrk]

Shaun - One thing I read said that the lockouts held on with three screws are the auto style. But mine are held on by three screws and clearly have a knob. Is that a conversion?

Both auto and manual override.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I'm already into the springs to the tune of $150, so I'll at least try to get at least the V-codes if not the X-codes from the salvage. But, in retrospect, new springs might have been a better idea.

I've put together this table based on the ATS table shown below. Does this properly capture what the table says?

Don't have Excel on my Android phone.I'll try and check it later.

[salans7]

Both auto and manual override.

Auto hubs will have two options, Auto and Lock.

Manual Hubs will also have two options, Lock and Free.

[Nothing Special]

Both auto and manual override.

Auto hubs will have two options, Auto and Lock.

Manual Hubs will also have two options, Lock and Free.

But that's the auto hubs from a SuperDuty. (my '02 F-350 had them)

In '95 the options were manual with two options: Lock and Free

and auto with two options: working and broken

[salans7]

Shaun - One thing I read said that the lockouts held on with three screws are the auto style. But mine are held on by three screws and clearly have a knob. Is that a conversion?

After doing a little more research, those were commonly used on the 95-97 F350's and are original.

My D60 has Warn Black Hubs, but I am unsure of whether they're replacements or original since my knowledge of what came stock on OBS trucks is limited.

[Gary Lewis]

Both auto and manual override.

Auto hubs will have two options, Auto and Lock.

Manual Hubs will also have two options, Lock and Free.

But that's the auto hubs from a SuperDuty. (my '02 F-350 had them)

In '95 the options were manual with two options: Lock and Free

and auto with two options: working and broken

Jim - I got a 2 3/4" socket today for $15 that fits perfectly. Thanks anyway.

And that video is of a very different lockout than mine. I'll look tomorrow and see what it says on it. But I think it is Lock and Free. And there's no place for a connection of any kind to these axles.

Bob - That's funny! And, I agree. My 2015 has the vacuum-operated "integrated wheel ends" and they broke very early on. I do not like the auto stuff, except that Blue does have an auto 4wd position and that's great for wet or slippery conditions - assuming the IWE's work.

So, I'm happy Big Blue is manual.

[Nothing Special]

Jim - I got a 2 3/4" socket today for $15 that fits perfectly. Thanks anyway.

And that video is of a very different lockout than mine. I'll look tomorrow and see what it says on it. But I think it is Lock and Free. And there's no place for a connection of any kind to these axles.

Bob - That's funny! And, I agree. My 2015 has the vacuum-operated "integrated wheel ends" and they broke very early on. I do not like the auto stuff, except that Blue does have an auto 4wd position and that's great for wet or slippery conditions - assuming the IWE's work.

So, I'm happy Big Blue is manual.

The '80s and '90s vintage auto hubs had no manual selection process. However they were completely mechanical and engaged when the axle turned. I think their biggest weakness is that they disengage whenever you reverse direction. If you are in 4WD when you do that they reengage soon after, but in that time between disengaging and reengaging you were only driving the rear tires and if you spun them you'd hammer the hubs when they reengaged.

The auto hubs on the SuperDuties were a "Better Idea" (to coin a phrase), but not necessarily a great implementation. They could be engaged and disengaged manually just like manual hubs, or they would engage by vacuum when you shift the transfer case into 4WD. But when I bought my '02 with 61K miles on it both hubs were jammed engaged. Someone told me that wasn't uncommon with them, but I only have my one truck with two permanently locked hubs as my data point. I thought about getting them replaced, but they weren't cheap and I didn't like the truck anyway. So I just lived with them and was glad that at least they failed in a way that 4WD still worked.

[Gary Lewis]

The '80s and '90s vintage auto hubs had no manual selection process. However they were completely mechanical and engaged when the axle turned. I think their biggest weakness is that they disengage whenever you reverse direction. If you are in 4WD when you do that they reengage soon after, but in that time between disengaging and reengaging you were only driving the rear tires and if you spun them you'd hammer the hubs when they reengaged.

The auto hubs on the SuperDuties were a "Better Idea" (to coin a phrase), but not necessarily a great implementation. They could be engaged and disengaged manually just like manual hubs, or they would engage by vacuum when you shift the transfer case into 4WD. But when I bought my '02 with 61K miles on it both hubs were jammed engaged. Someone told me that wasn't uncommon with them, but I only have my one truck with two permanently locked hubs as my data point. I thought about getting them replaced, but they weren't cheap and I didn't like the truck anyway. So I just lived with them and was glad that at least they failed in a way that 4WD still worked.

Bob - It is depressing that in the 40ish years they've been experimenting with auto hubs they haven't gotten it right yet. Your stories plus what I've seen and heard indicate to me that even by 2015 they weren't bullet-proof. Not when two out of two of mine failed in the early days.

But, speaking of hubs, my "new" ones are manual. (Note the 3 screw holes that are apparently different than all others. )

And, here's the socket I bought, which worked perfectly to get the spindle nut off. But, that's about all I'll get done today as we are running errands.

However, no one commented on my table, above, on spring parameters. Note the ever-so-slight difference in the thickness of the U and V-code springs. I don't know how Brent will be able to tell the difference if the springs are off the truck. Looks like I need to add a column and include the arch, although he can't tell that w/o pulling the springs.

Speaking of springs, I've been doing some reading and I'm not as convinced now that I need V-Code springs. Would some of y'all read through this thread on Powerstroke Nation, please? They seem to really like the U-codes, even with the diesel engine.

[Nothing Special]

.... Speaking of springs, I've been doing some reading and I'm not as convinced now that I need V-Code springs. Would some of y'all read through this thread on Powerstroke Nation, please? They seem to really like the U-codes, even with the diesel engine.

I skimmed through it. It looks to be consistent with what I've read before: the U code springs for the (lighter) gas version of the (heavier) SuperDuty work well on the (lighter) '80 - '97 trucks with the (heavier) diesel. You have the lighter 460, but a heavier bumper and winch. I'd guess that puts you a little heavier than a diesel with stock bumper and no winch, so you are sort of in a no-man's land. But I don't thik you're that far out of the norm (stock '80 - '97 with a diesel being the high end of what I'm calling the norm). Which is why I was thinking I'd start with U code springs if I were in your position.

And for what it's worth, "Bradbuilt" from that forum is "Diesel_Brad" on FTE. Same guy, different screen name.