Big Blue's Transformation

[ArdWrknTrk]

Wait! By "inner side" you didn't mean inside the casing. Right? But, ........

Gary, by "inner side" I think Bill means 'engine' side.

I would go to a site like Engineers Toolbox and have a look at the temperature limits for polypropylene and/or polyethylene.

I know the bubble wrap you speak of, and while it might be great at heat levels a human can stand it might not work in an engine bay.

Sidenote: could you use this slave cylinder reflective boot, or not?

Because it's going somewhere, one way or another.

B) I've done the resistor plug swap on my truck, so let me get some pictures of the splices in the first dawn of summer. 😉

[Gary Lewis]

Gary, by "inner side" I think Bill means 'engine' side.

I would go to a site like Engineers Toolbox and have a look at the temperature limits for polypropylene and/or polyethylene.

I know the bubble wrap you speak of, and while it might be great at heat levels a human can stand it might not work in an engine bay.

Sidenote: could you use this slave cylinder reflective boot, or not?

Because it's going somewhere, one way or another.

B) I've done the resistor plug swap on my truck, so let me get some pictures of the splices in the first dawn of summer. 😉

Jim - Yes, I thought "inner side" meant the side towards the engine.

As for the temp for the poly, I've found several and the lowest of them is 180. With the foil facing I doubt it'll get to that. But, it is the "double bubble" type that is inexpensive, so I'm not sure I should use it and am looking for something better. Suggestions welcome.

Yes, I could use the clutch slave cylinder boot. Thanks!

And pics would be welcome.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Jim - Yes, I thought "inner side" meant the side towards the engine.

As for the temp for the poly, I've found several and the lowest of them is 180. With the foil facing I doubt it'll get to that. But, it is the "double bubble" type that is inexpensive, so I'm not sure I should use it and am looking for something better. Suggestions welcome.

Yes, I could use the clutch slave cylinder boot. Thanks!

And pics would be welcome.

Okay, this is what I have, using a yellow board resistor and the E-350 relay harness for high.

Harness yellow to plug green

Harness red to plug Or/Bk

Harness green to plug yellow

Harness Or/Bk to plug black

 

[ArdWrknTrk]

Okay, this is what I have, using a yellow board resistor and the E-350 relay harness for high.

Harness yellow to plug green

Harness red to plug Or/Bk

Harness green to plug yellow

Harness Or/Bk to plug black

Here's the relay, behind the jack.

Here's the relay harness routing, around the back of the blower motor:

And here's where I tapped for trigger, and power back TO the blower.

[85lebaront2]

Wait! By "inner side" you didn't mean inside the casing. Right? But, ........

Inner side = side toward the center of the truck, engine side for you overthinkers.

[Gary Lewis]

Inner side = side toward the center of the truck, engine side for you overthinkers.

Jim - Thanks for the pics. They will help.

Bill - That was my initial understanding, but then I "over-thought it".

All - Doing research on "insulation" to add to the HVAC plenum. Here's what I'm finding:

• Thermo-Tec 13575 Adhesive Backed Aluminized Heat Barrier: No insulation but good reflectivity. Heat to 2000 and direct contact to 300 degrees. $26.30 for 2 sq ft and is available tomorrow.

• Design Engineering 010462 Reflect-A-Cool Heat Reflective Adhesive Backed Sheets: Still reflective with no insulation. Heat to 2000 and direct contact to 400 degrees. $21.99 for 4 sq ft, and available tomorrow.

• Second Skin Thermal Block™ - Radiant Heat Shield: $24.99 for 1.5 sq ft. However, it is 1/8" thick and has "organic fibers" so should have some insulating properties as well as reflectivity. And it is good to 800 degrees. HOWEVER, I just called Second Skin and it isn't available. They can't get the materials due to the COVID-19 virus and it'll be several weeks, if then, before it is ready.

• Second Skin Mega Block™ - Foam + Reinforced Heat Shield. This is an insulation with reflective barrier, but the insulation is only R2 (R4/inch) so not a lot of insulating value. Normally $94.99 for 8 sq ft, but over the phone they'll sell me 4 sq ft for $47.50. However, it is 1/2" thick and while he really thinks it'll wrap tightly enough to go around the bend of the plenum, he said they'll take it back if it won't. And it would ship tomorrow.

So, I'm still thinking and looking. I haven't found a true insulation with reflective cover that appears to be designed for underhood use save for the Second Skin products. I need to look at the plenum to see if I think the Mega Block will work. But I'm leaning towards the DEI Reflect-A-Cool.

Thoughts? Suggestions?

[ArdWrknTrk]

Jim - Thanks for the pics. They will help.

Bill - That was my initial understanding, but then I "over-thought it".

All - Doing research on "insulation" to add to the HVAC plenum. Here's what I'm finding:

• Thermo-Tec 13575 Adhesive Backed Aluminized Heat Barrier: No insulation but good reflectivity. Heat to 2000 and direct contact to 300 degrees. $26.30 for 2 sq ft and is available tomorrow.

• Design Engineering 010462 Reflect-A-Cool Heat Reflective Adhesive Backed Sheets: Still reflective with no insulation. Heat to 2000 and direct contact to 400 degrees. $21.99 for 4 sq ft, and available tomorrow.

• Second Skin Thermal Block™ - Radiant Heat Shield: $24.99 for 1.5 sq ft. However, it is 1/8" thick and has "organic fibers" so should have some insulating properties as well as reflectivity. And it is good to 800 degrees. HOWEVER, I just called Second Skin and it isn't available. They can't get the materials due to the COVID-19 virus and it'll be several weeks, if then, before it is ready.

• Second Skin Mega Block™ - Foam + Reinforced Heat Shield. This is an insulation with reflective barrier, but the insulation is only R2 (R4/inch) so not a lot of insulating value. Normally $94.99 for 8 sq ft, but over the phone they'll sell me 4 sq ft for $47.50. However, it is 1/2" thick and while he really thinks it'll wrap tightly enough to go around the bend of the plenum, he said they'll take it back if it won't. And it would ship tomorrow.

So, I'm still thinking and looking. I haven't found a true insulation with reflective cover that appears to be designed for underhood use save for the Second Skin products. I need to look at the plenum to see if I think the Mega Block will work. But I'm leaning towards the DEI Reflect-A-Cool.

Thoughts? Suggestions?

I think I'd use some of the foil faced neoprene self adhesive foam I have for sound deadening my cab firewall.

If I wanted to go 'factory' I'd ask one of the HVAC guys for some foil duct wrap, but I think I'd have to peel off some of the fiberglass to get it to conform.

Or, you could do something like this: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Frost-King-E-O-12-in-x-15-ft-Foil-and-Fiberglass-Duct-Insulation-SP55-6/100185601

[Gary Lewis]

I think I'd use some of the foil faced neoprene self adhesive foam I have for sound deadening my cab firewall.

If I wanted to go 'factory' I'd ask one of the HVAC guys for some foil duct wrap, but I think I'd have to peel off some of the fiberglass to get it to conform.

Or, you could do something like this: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Frost-King-E-O-12-in-x-15-ft-Foil-and-Fiberglass-Duct-Insulation-SP55-6/100185601

Jim - Thanks. I went to Home Depot and instead of the fiberglass/foil insulation I got this foam/foil insulation. And that roll of "Flexfix" tape. The insulation worked well, as I'll explain in a bit, but that tape didn't. So I went back to the local hardware store and got some good aluminum tape.

And here's as far as I've gotten - the cover is almost done. I'm glad I went with the foam/foil combo as the 1/8" thickness made it easier to deal with than if it had been thicker. And since the foam has adhesive on it I went ahead and used that w/o adding the spray adhesive. Now I'm using the aluminum tape to tie it all together as well as secure the edges to the plenum to ensure it won't come loose. You can see that I didn't get quite done today with the cover, but should finish it in the morning and move on to the plenum itself. And since I have the insulation and tape, I might as well do it all.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Jim - Thanks. I went to Home Depot and instead of the fiberglass/foil insulation I got this foam/foil insulation. And that roll of "Flexfix" tape. The insulation worked well, as I'll explain in a bit, but that tape didn't. So I went back to the local hardware store and got some good aluminum tape.

And here's as far as I've gotten - the cover is almost done. I'm glad I went with the foam/foil combo as the 1/8" thickness made it easier to deal with than if it had been thicker. And since the foam has adhesive on it I went ahead and used that w/o adding the spray adhesive. Now I'm using the aluminum tape to tie it all together as well as secure the edges to the plenum to ensure it won't come loose. You can see that I didn't get quite done today with the cover, but should finish it in the morning and move on to the plenum itself. And since I have the insulation and tape, I might as well do it all.

I know for some guys it's important to have it 'like factory' which would mean foil/fiberglass stapled on.

But I think the self adhesive foil/neoprene combo is a better solution, in this case. And you shouldn't have adhesion problems after the plenum has gotten the dishwasher-scrub treatment.

You seem to have done a great job getting it fitted.

Glad it's working out for you 👍

[Gary Lewis]

I know for some guys it's important to have it 'like factory' which would mean foil/fiberglass stapled on.

But I think the self adhesive foil/neoprene combo is a better solution, in this case. And you shouldn't have adhesion problems after the plenum has gotten the dishwasher-scrub treatment.

You seem to have done a great job getting it fitted.

Glad it's working out for you 👍

Thanks, Jim. Fitting it wasn't too hard. But I made SURE it was clean first and used brake cleaner to wipe it down. That meant I could lay a piece on lightly, make an impression where I needed to cut, and then get it off to cut and put it back. And then after a bit of pressure it was well and truly ON.

But, as you can tell, originality isn't quite my thing. Let's see, it doesn't have the original engine, nor electrical system, nor transmission, nor front axle, nor front springs, nor A/C system. Nor will it have the original fuel system. In fact, this F250 is really an F350 save for the VIN and badging, and if you average out all the parts its probably closer to a 1990 than an '85.