ArdWrknTrk Posted June 19, 2020 Share Posted June 19, 2020 Assuming that the hoses fit. I thought about that but decided I wasn't that interested. I want to be able to tell the kids "It is a 1990 F-Series A/C system lock, stock, and barrel." Not "It is a 1990 F-Series A/C system, but with a 1990 E-Series compressor." LOL! It is going to be confusing enough to say: 1996 California-spec 460 w/EFI 1995 Superduty hydroboost brake booster & master cylinder 1995 F-Series underhood electrical system inc alternator and PDB 1995 F350 front axle & ball joints 199X Superduty front springs 1995 E-Series Saginaw power steering pump What have I missed? There's a TON of changes. I sure hope they are for the better! "Superduty" didn't start until 1999. If you want to keep it in that millennia, 1999 is the only year it could be.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted June 19, 2020 Author Share Posted June 19, 2020 "Superduty" didn't start until 1999. If you want to keep it in that millennia, 1999 is the only year it could be.... Very true. I forget. And that was off the top of my head. But when it comes time to document all this I will make sure to look up what I have. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nothing Special Posted June 19, 2020 Share Posted June 19, 2020 Assuming that the hoses fit. I thought about that but decided I wasn't that interested. I want to be able to tell the kids "It is a 1990 F-Series A/C system lock, stock, and barrel." Not "It is a 1990 F-Series A/C system, but with a 1990 E-Series compressor." LOL! It is going to be confusing enough to say: 1996 California-spec 460 w/EFI 1995 Superduty hydroboost brake booster & master cylinder 1995 F-Series underhood electrical system inc alternator and PDB 1995 F350 front axle & ball joints 199X Superduty front springs 1995 E-Series Saginaw power steering pump What have I missed? There's a TON of changes. I sure hope they are for the better! To be a little more clear / correct (look for the bold font below): .... 1995 F-Superduty hydroboost brake booster & master cylinder 199X SuperDuty front springs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted June 19, 2020 Author Share Posted June 19, 2020 To be a little more clear / correct (look for the bold font below): .... 1995 F-Superduty hydroboost brake booster & master cylinder 199X SuperDuty front springs Thanks, Bob! I think I actually have most of the details captured in my Word document, but should go see. I'm hoping it can be the hand-off document for the kids. I was just talking w/my SiL about this sort of thing last week. Many years ago at their wedding my daughter and I walked up to him under an umbrella I was carrying. I handed him the umbrella and that was all the documentation he got. I promised to do better this time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted June 19, 2020 Author Share Posted June 19, 2020 Thanks, Bob! I think I actually have most of the details captured in my Word document, but should go see. I'm hoping it can be the hand-off document for the kids. I was just talking w/my SiL about this sort of thing last week. Many years ago at their wedding my daughter and I walked up to him under an umbrella I was carrying. I handed him the umbrella and that was all the documentation he got. I promised to do better this time. Ok, I gave up and ordered two of these: Metric M10 M10X1.5 Male to M8 M8X1.25 Female Reducer Headless Adapter Stainless Steel. You may ask why when I'd already sort of successfully made two of them. Well today wasn't quite as successful. The thread locker didn't, the larger drill bit didn't ease the tapping tightness enough and I still twisted one off, and I broke the tap. Other than that, the play was good. So I ordered those and moved on. But the old A/C system was in my way, so necessity is the mother of invention. No bulls were hurt filming these pictures. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted June 19, 2020 Share Posted June 19, 2020 Ok, I gave up and ordered two of these: Metric M10 M10X1.5 Male to M8 M8X1.25 Female Reducer Headless Adapter Stainless Steel. You may ask why when I'd already sort of successfully made two of them. Well today wasn't quite as successful. The thread locker didn't, the larger drill bit didn't ease the tapping tightness enough and I still twisted one off, and I broke the tap. Other than that, the play was good. So I ordered those and moved on. But the old A/C system was in my way, so necessity is the mother of invention. No bulls were hurt filming these pictures. Damn, Gary, should have said something, I would have split a 10 pack with you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sac79 Posted June 19, 2020 Share Posted June 19, 2020 Ok, I gave up and ordered two of these: Metric M10 M10X1.5 Male to M8 M8X1.25 Female Reducer Headless Adapter Stainless Steel. You may ask why when I'd already sort of successfully made two of them. Well today wasn't quite as successful. The thread locker didn't, the larger drill bit didn't ease the tapping tightness enough and I still twisted one off, and I broke the tap. Other than that, the play was good. So I ordered those and moved on. But the old A/C system was in my way, so necessity is the mother of invention. No bulls were hurt filming these pictures. Very inventive indeed! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted June 19, 2020 Author Share Posted June 19, 2020 Very inventive indeed! Bill - Sorry. I only needed two, so decided it would be cheaper to do that than split 10. But, I have a question for you re insulating the HVAC plenum. Did you say yours is insulated? From the factory? Would it be advantageous to put some on this one? Rob - When you are working alone you get creative. Ok, got a bit done this afternoon after striking out this morning. Specifically, I put the radiator and condenser in place, but need to put the nuts in the radiator support to secure them. And I pulled the underhood HVAC plenum. You'se guys that said "Yes, use the Bricknose plenum" were setting me up, I can tell. Removing those things is less fun than installing headers! There's one nut that you'd better use a sensitive 1/4" drive ratchet 'cause there's only room to move the handle about two clicks each time. And there's another that requires moving the fender liner out of the way to even find it, and good luck seeing it. But, I got it out and have compared it to the Bricknose unit and the gasket will interchange, so apparently the Bricknose will fit a Bullnose. But, there will have to be some changes. In the pics below, the Bricknose is on the left and the Bullnose on the right, and you can see a few differences. First, the Bricknose has the wires coming out of the plenum where the Bullnose has the vacuum hoses. Unfortunately it looks like the hole for the wiring is larger than that on the Bullnose plenum, so I'll have to come up with a way to bush the hole down. Another difference is the connection for the resistor pack. I'll show pics of the two resistor packs in a bit, but the connectors are quite different so I'll have to splice that connector in. Boy, let me tell you that connector won't fall off! I think they use them on the space shuttle. The third difference is the opening for the blower motor. Note the different shapes of the openings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted June 19, 2020 Share Posted June 19, 2020 Bill - Sorry. I only needed two, so decided it would be cheaper to do that than split 10. But, I have a question for you re insulating the HVAC plenum. Did you say yours is insulated? From the factory? Would it be advantageous to put some on this one? Rob - When you are working alone you get creative. Ok, got a bit done this afternoon after striking out this morning. Specifically, I put the radiator and condenser in place, but need to put the nuts in the radiator support to secure them. And I pulled the underhood HVAC plenum. You'se guys that said "Yes, use the Bricknose plenum" were setting me up, I can tell. Removing those things is less fun than installing headers! There's one nut that you'd better use a sensitive 1/4" drive ratchet 'cause there's only room to move the handle about two clicks each time. And there's another that requires moving the fender liner out of the way to even find it, and good luck seeing it. But, I got it out and have compared it to the Bricknose unit and the gasket will interchange, so apparently the Bricknose will fit a Bullnose. But, there will have to be some changes. In the pics below, the Bricknose is on the left and the Bullnose on the right, and you can see a few differences. First, the Bricknose has the wires coming out of the plenum where the Bullnose has the vacuum hoses. Unfortunately it looks like the hole for the wiring is larger than that on the Bullnose plenum, so I'll have to come up with a way to bush the hole down. Another difference is the connection for the resistor pack. I'll show pics of the two resistor packs in a bit, but the connectors are quite different so I'll have to splice that connector in. Boy, let me tell you that connector won't fall off! I think they use them on the space shuttle. The third difference is the opening for the blower motor. Note the different shapes of the openings. Speaking of motors, here is a shot of the two, with the Bricknose on the left and the Bullnose on the right. The Bricknose is a bit larger at 3.218" OD while the Bullnose is 3.025". And, the mounting plate has a different profile, so they won't interchange. But the connectors are the same. And here are the resistor packs, again with the Bricknose on the left and the Bullnose on the right. Not only will they not interchange due to them being of different shapes and sizes, but the connectors are completely different. So I'll be grafting that connector into the harness. So, there are some differences, but they don't look like a big problem. Gary, before you start cutting and grafting, look at the inside connector from the dash harness to the blower harness. It may be easier to do the connecting/grafting where it is inside the cab and protected. Your present harness comes out underneath the HVAC casing instead of through it. If you can use the 1990 harness and just disconnect the unused portions of the 1985 harness it might be easier. Resistor values may be different also. I seem to recall that at least the 1990 and newer have a fairly heavy connector where the underhood portion of the HVAC harness comes inside. I believe it is a 4 pin plug with .060" round pins. It is C203 on mine and has all 4 speeds passing through it. On the 1990 it is C203, but only has 3 wires, M1, M2 and Hi, Lo (ground) isn't wired through it. On the 1985 it is completely different, C602 goes to the switch and blower and C604 to ground, C603 is the blower connection. The reason those connectors are so hard to get apart, corrosion + heat = more corrosion + more heat. Once you get everything lined up, some grease to seal the connection from water will help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted June 19, 2020 Author Share Posted June 19, 2020 Gary, before you start cutting and grafting, look at the inside connector from the dash harness to the blower harness. It may be easier to do the connecting/grafting where it is inside the cab and protected. Your present harness comes out underneath the HVAC casing instead of through it. If you can use the 1990 harness and just disconnect the unused portions of the 1985 harness it might be easier. Resistor values may be different also. I seem to recall that at least the 1990 and newer have a fairly heavy connector where the underhood portion of the HVAC harness comes inside. I believe it is a 4 pin plug with .060" round pins. It is C203 on mine and has all 4 speeds passing through it. On the 1990 it is C203, but only has 3 wires, M1, M2 and Hi, Lo (ground) isn't wired through it. On the 1985 it is completely different, C602 goes to the switch and blower and C604 to ground, C603 is the blower connection. The reason those connectors are so hard to get apart, corrosion + heat = more corrosion + more heat. Once you get everything lined up, some grease to seal the connection from water will help Thanks, Bill. I'll check that out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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