Big Blue's Transformation

[ArdWrknTrk]

That's from Lokar. It is the 24" variety, and cost ~$110. Yep, expensive. But it is flexible and I couldn't find anything else that looked like it would get out around the headers. It does, but it is CLOSE where it goes between the perch and the header. So Jim suggested the insulation that I added today.

And one of the things that Jim pointed out, and rightly so, is that the stainless braid on the outside of the tube is like a rasp. As it turns out, it lays against the perch, so as the engine shakes it would quickly wear through the powder coating and start chewing up the perch. So while the insulation will help, I put a piece of convolute over the insulation to prevent wear. I'm hoping it is far enough from the header so it won't melt. We shall see.

I'm concerned that it might melt, but I'm more concerned that that brake line is not secured in that clip.

[Gary Lewis]

I'm concerned that it might melt, but I'm more concerned that that brake line is not secured in that clip.

Jim - That brake line is about 3" from that clip, and wasn't designed to go there. But what you can't see is that there's another clip on the outside of the frame that is tightly holding that line.

Now, for what I suspect is the last update for a while on Big Blue. Today I saw the Holley fuel pressure regulator I have, which is a 12-803BP, and thought I ought to check the specs on inlet fuel pressure to see if I can use it with the EFI pump. But the literature that came with the regulator doesn't have that. So I called Tech Support.

Turns out that the 12-803BP is designed for low-pressure pumps, like what a carb'd 460 would have. So it is a good replacement for the hot fuel handling system's orifice.

But, to do what I want to do, which is to use the EFI pumps in the fuel delivery modules, I really ought to go with their 12-887 (black) or 12-881 (polished) regulator. He said they are both by-pass style regulators and they are designed to be used with EFI fuel pumps.

That way I can put the EFI fuel system in save for the fuel injectors and fuel rail/regulator combo. And if I use the Ford EFI connectors then when the time comes I can just install the injectors, rail, etc and connect it right up.

The instructions are here.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Jim - That brake line is about 3" from that clip, and wasn't designed to go there. But what you can't see is that there's another clip on the outside of the frame that is tightly holding that line.

Now, for what I suspect is the last update for a while on Big Blue. Today I saw the Holley fuel pressure regulator I have, which is a 12-803BP, and thought I ought to check the specs on inlet fuel pressure to see if I can use it with the EFI pump. But the literature that came with the regulator doesn't have that. So I called Tech Support.

Turns out that the 12-803BP is designed for low-pressure pumps, like what a carb'd 460 would have. So it is a good replacement for the hot fuel handling system's orifice.

But, to do what I want to do, which is to use the EFI pumps in the fuel delivery modules, I really ought to go with their 12-887 (black) or 12-881 (polished) regulator. He said they are both by-pass style regulators and they are designed to be used with EFI fuel pumps.

That way I can put the EFI fuel system in save for the fuel injectors and fuel rail/regulator combo. And if I use the Ford EFI connectors then when the time comes I can just install the injectors, rail, etc and connect it right up.

The instructions are here.

Wow, camera lenses can make things look flat.

Seems crazy it just runs under the rail like that.

Almost like asking for it to get crushed or snagged.

I need to go check out my truck.

[Gary Lewis]

Wow, camera lenses can make things look flat.

Seems crazy it just runs under the rail like that.

Almost like asking for it to get crushed or snagged.

I need to go check out my truck.

I think because it is so close to the axle they figure you can't hit it. And it does have the spiral reinforcement around it.

Anyway, on another topic, I got the stainless button-head screws in and installed several of them on the bumper today. But then I realized that while most of the screws in the bumper are 1/4" there are several 5/16" and they are seriously rusted as well. So I'll order matching button-head screws in 5/16".

While I'm at it there are two bolts in the front, circled in red below, that are rusty as well. And McMaster-Carr has them in stainless for ~$1/ea. However, like all their stainless these bolts have a tensile strength of 70,000 psi. That's basically equivalent to a G2 bolt. And these bolts secure internal bracing to the bumper, or vice versa. So I'm thinking I shouldn't go with stainless. Right?

If so I'll either find a couple of bumper bolts, which I might have, or just powder coat these black.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I think because it is so close to the axle they figure you can't hit it. And it does have the spiral reinforcement around it.

Anyway, on another topic, I got the stainless button-head screws in and installed several of them on the bumper today. But then I realized that while most of the screws in the bumper are 1/4" there are several 5/16" and they are seriously rusted as well. So I'll order matching button-head screws in 5/16".

While I'm at it there are two bolts in the front, circled in red below, that are rusty as well. And McMaster-Carr has them in stainless for ~$1/ea. However, like all their stainless these bolts have a tensile strength of 70,000 psi. That's basically equivalent to a G2 bolt. And these bolts secure internal bracing to the bumper, or vice versa. So I'm thinking I shouldn't go with stainless. Right?

If so I'll either find a couple of bumper bolts, which I might have, or just powder coat these black.

I can see that maybe those two bolts holding the fairlead might be in tension, but most bolts will be loaded in shear, or just holding chrome in place.

I don't have a classic winch bumper to look into.

EDIT: UTS is a poor factor for bolt choice.

NONE of these bolts are aerospace components, or even rod bolts.

None of them are being torqued to where they need be for stretch to come into play.

They're just holding crap together.

The Young's Modulus is pretty universal for carbon steel

But higher strength bolts are likely FAR more notch and shock sensitive.

And usually more prone to corrosion as well.

(I use the qualifiers because there are some titanium and nickle high temp superalloys that definitely sulfuric off corrosion)

[Gary Lewis]

I can see that maybe those two bolts holding the fairlead might be in tension, but most bolts will be loaded in shear, or just holding chrome in place.

I don't have a classic winch bumper to look into.

EDIT: UTS is a poor factor for bolt choice.

NONE of these bolts are aerospace components, or even rod bolts.

None of them are being torqued to where they need be for stretch to come into play.

They're just holding crap together.

The Young's Modulus is pretty universal for carbon steel

But higher strength bolts are likely FAR more notch and shock sensitive.

And usually more prone to corrosion as well.

(I use the qualifiers because there are some titanium and nickle high temp superalloys that definitely sulfuric off corrosion)

So I'd be fine to use stainless I think you are saying?

I did find bumper bolts, and while they are the ones for Dad's truck I wouldn't mind having new ones for that. So I need to pull one of the existing bolt out and see what size the square hole is in the bumper. But, I do know that the bumper bolts from Dad's truck are metric, as are the bolts in Big Blue's bumper. So I think the shank of the bumper bolts will fit.

And, while I was looking for the hot-air tube for Joe I found not one, but two lower steering shafts! The later kind with the universal joint. So when the time comes, probably after the kids leave, I'll swap out the shaft that's in there.

But, speaking of the kids, they aren't here yet, so I'm going back out to the shop and check that bolt.......

[ArdWrknTrk]

So I'd be fine to use stainless I think you are saying?

I did find bumper bolts, and while they are the ones for Dad's truck I wouldn't mind having new ones for that. So I need to pull one of the existing bolt out and see what size the square hole is in the bumper. But, I do know that the bumper bolts from Dad's truck are metric, as are the bolts in Big Blue's bumper. So I think the shank of the bumper bolts will fit.

And, while I was looking for the hot-air tube for Joe I found not one, but two lower steering shafts! The later kind with the universal joint. So when the time comes, probably after the kids leave, I'll swap out the shaft that's in there.

But, speaking of the kids, they aren't here yet, so I'm going back out to the shop and check that bolt.......

I can't say anything.

I said above 'i don't have a vintage winch bumper to look at'

If a steel bolt isn't already torqued well into its elastic range it isn't providing any clamping force to speak of.

A 1/2-13 or 1/2-20 bolt is going to need to be lubed and torqued pretty far to provide resistance to lift.

And if almost all steel has the same mE, just different UTS, then (IMHO) the suitability of a grade "butter" bolt that handles shock, lessens corrosion and is not prone to creating beachhead stress risers works to my advantage.

Are you going to go out and torque your bumper bolts to 125 ftlbs?

 

[Gary Lewis]

I can't say anything.

I said above 'i don't have a vintage winch bumper to look at'

If a steel bolt isn't already torqued well into its elastic range it isn't providing any clamping force to speak of.

A 1/2-13 or 1/2-20 bolt is going to need to be lubed and torqued pretty far to provide resistance to lift.

And if almost all steel has the same mE, just different UTS, then (IMHO) the suitability of a grade "butter" bolt that handles shock, lessens corrosion and is not prone to creating beachhead stress risers works to my advantage.

Are you going to go out and torque your bumper bolts to 125 ftlbs?

As it turns out, the bumper bolts from Dad's truck are 12mm but the bolts in BB's bumper are 7/16". And the 12mm bolts won't fit. So I'll order 7/16" stainless carriage bolts and bet they'll fit.

Oops, they don't have 7/16". Think I may just powder coat the ones I have.

 

[ArdWrknTrk]

As it turns out, the bumper bolts from Dad's truck are 12mm but the bolts in BB's bumper are 7/16". And the 12mm bolts won't fit. So I'll order 7/16" stainless carriage bolts and bet they'll fit.

Oops, they don't have 7/16". Think I may just powder coat the ones I have.

(Who) don't?

MMC?

[Gary Lewis]

(Who) don't?

MMC?

McMaster-Carr