Big Blue's Transformation

[Gary Lewis]

Got the EEC coil bracket done, at least as far as I can go now. Can't finish it until I have the final stay in place and I bend the bracket's leg to fit.

Anyway, I drilled and tapped for the 1/4-20 bolts that will be the studs on which to mount the coil. (Yes, the factory brackets use 1/4-20's.) And I welded those in as well as ran the beads on the bottom to finish the welding. Here's what that looks like:

And here's a shot of the top side, along with its bigger brother:

So now it is time to move on to the stay........

Got the prototype stay pretty well done today, as shown below. This is the same piece of scrap that I used before, but I turned it so the "leg" of the channel is pointing down. That puts more meat in the corner where I'm tapping it to take the dip stick and coil mount.

In this pic the coil mount is not quite touching the stay, maybe clearing about 1/64". So when a radius is put on that corner of the stay I can bend the leg of the coil mount to go around the corner and hit a stud there.

What'cha think? What changes need to be made, other than lengthening it and rounding corners? Maybe make the dip stick stand up vertically? I hope to make the real stay tomorrow, so keep those cards and letters coming it!

And, speaking of studs, here's the backside of the stay showing where the hole for the dip stick stud comes out. I drilled the hole w/a #7 bit, which is a bit undersized as it calls for a #3, and tapped it 1/4-28. That's because I think the fine threads will hold up better. But, I want to use 1/4-20 nuts as that's what several other things there take and I don't want to chance using the right nut on the wrong stud. So I found a neat stud with 1/4-28 on one end and 20 tpi threads on the other. I put it in using a 1/4-20 nut on the top, and thought it was odd that the nut was able to drive the stud all the way in. Then I discovered it isn't a 1/4" stud. What do y'all think it is?

So, I ran a 1/4-20 die down it and it is now just right.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Got the prototype stay pretty well done today, as shown below. This is the same piece of scrap that I used before, but I turned it so the "leg" of the channel is pointing down. That puts more meat in the corner where I'm tapping it to take the dip stick and coil mount.

In this pic the coil mount is not quite touching the stay, maybe clearing about 1/64". So when a radius is put on that corner of the stay I can bend the leg of the coil mount to go around the corner and hit a stud there.

What'cha think? What changes need to be made, other than lengthening it and rounding corners? Maybe make the dip stick stand up vertically? I hope to make the real stay tomorrow, so keep those cards and letters coming it!

And, speaking of studs, here's the backside of the stay showing where the hole for the dip stick stud comes out. I drilled the hole w/a #7 bit, which is a bit undersized as it calls for a #3, and tapped it 1/4-28. That's because I think the fine threads will hold up better. But, I want to use 1/4-20 nuts as that's what several other things there take and I don't want to chance using the right nut on the wrong stud. So I found a neat stud with 1/4-28 on one end and 20 tpi threads on the other. I put it in using a 1/4-20 nut on the top, and thought it was odd that the nut was able to drive the stud all the way in. Then I discovered it isn't a 1/4" stud. What do y'all think it is?

So, I ran a 1/4-20 die down it and it is now just right.

6x1 on the other end.

You need to use the mill to waste where the fill baffle is in the valve cover.

Aluminum hates stress risers, so a radiused inside corner is the WTG.

[Gary Lewis]

6x1 on the other end.

You need to use the mill to waste where the fill baffle is in the valve cover.

Aluminum hates stress risers, so a radiused inside corner is the WTG.

Actually, I think it was 14-20. I ran a 20-toothed thread file over it and it didn't mark it at all. And I have a 14-20 die that fit it. So I ran a 1/4-20 die down it and it just deepened the threads and took the tops off.

But, you are absolutely right about the stress risers. My plan is to use the mill to radius the corners, but this way was faster for the prototype.

[Gary Lewis]

Actually, I think it was 14-20. I ran a 20-toothed thread file over it and it didn't mark it at all. And I have a 14-20 die that fit it. So I ran a 1/4-20 die down it and it just deepened the threads and took the tops off.

But, you are absolutely right about the stress risers. My plan is to use the mill to radius the corners, but this way was faster for the prototype.

Got the prototype stay done this morn, and will now be working on the "production" one. The learning was that I can't mount the coil bracket over two studs, even with both mounting "holes" being slotted. So the lower leg of the mount will be held to the stay with a bolt, as shown below.

And, while I like to use 1/4-28 threads on the studs, the other fasteners in the area are 1/4-20, so I'll tap the production stay for 1/4-20 to prevent confusion

[Gary Lewis]

Got the prototype stay done this morn, and will now be working on the "production" one. The learning was that I can't mount the coil bracket over two studs, even with both mounting "holes" being slotted. So the lower leg of the mount will be held to the stay with a bolt, as shown below.

And, while I like to use 1/4-28 threads on the studs, the other fasteners in the area are 1/4-20, so I'll tap the production stay for 1/4-20 to prevent confusion

Production stay is done save for drilling and tapping the holes for the dip stick and the EEC coil mount and milling a bullnose on it. But I can't do that latter until Sunday at the earliest as the router bits don't come in until Saturday. Maybe I can mill and finish it on Sunday.

I need to find a good check point as it now looks like our kids that were in Nicaragua and then Houston are going to move in with us in about two weeks. And when that happens I'll be playing with grandtwins rather than the truck.

So I'm thinking I'll get the dip stick stay and coil mounts done and installed, and then clean the shop. And if there's time left before they get here maybe I can get the front driveshaft rebuilt and installed. If there's more time then I could do some odds and ends, like:

• Install the passenger's side spark plug heat shield

• Figure out why the speedo cable isn't long enough and get it connected. Probably just too much of it up under the hood where I installed the transducer for the speed control.

• Install the oil pressure switch, sending unit, and connection to the aftermarket gauge

• Connect the aftermarket temp gauge and figure out how to install the original sender as well so I can have both gauges working.

• Install the various vacuum fittings and plugs in the lower plenum

• Install the injector port plugs that came with the carb adapter from Scotty. He said to use some sealer on them. I wonder if Loctite PST would be good for that or Permatex #2?

• Fill the brake system and bleed it

• Figure out why the dizzy hasn't dropped all the way in

Man, there's still a lot to do!

[ArdWrknTrk]

Production stay is done save for drilling and tapping the holes for the dip stick and the EEC coil mount and milling a bullnose on it. But I can't do that latter until Sunday at the earliest as the router bits don't come in until Saturday. Maybe I can mill and finish it on Sunday.

I need to find a good check point as it now looks like our kids that were in Nicaragua and then Houston are going to move in with us in about two weeks. And when that happens I'll be playing with grandtwins rather than the truck.

So I'm thinking I'll get the dip stick stay and coil mounts done and installed, and then clean the shop. And if there's time left before they get here maybe I can get the front driveshaft rebuilt and installed. If there's more time then I could do some odds and ends, like:

• Install the passenger's side spark plug heat shield

• Figure out why the speedo cable isn't long enough and get it connected. Probably just too much of it up under the hood where I installed the transducer for the speed control.

• Install the oil pressure switch, sending unit, and connection to the aftermarket gauge

• Connect the aftermarket temp gauge and figure out how to install the original sender as well so I can have both gauges working.

• Install the various vacuum fittings and plugs in the lower plenum

• Install the injector port plugs that came with the carb adapter from Scotty. He said to use some sealer on them. I wonder if Loctite PST would be good for that or Permatex #2?

• Fill the brake system and bleed it

• Figure out why the dizzy hasn't dropped all the way in

Man, there's still a lot to do!

I think almost any sealer is ok.

There isn't much heat there.

Have you tried a dab of grease on the oil pump shaft and then pushing it down with a 5/16 1/4" drive deep socket?

If you can get the shaft to stay centered in the block boss it's much easier to get the dizzy to drop.

Get the kids out in the Mahal with you.

They can learn safety and basic principles.

They will be very grateful later in life.

I watch a guy on YouTube who has his three year old daughter welding. (Real welding!)

Cute as a button and already has the basics down pat.

[Gary Lewis]

I think almost any sealer is ok.

There isn't much heat there.

Have you tried a dab of grease on the oil pump shaft and then pushing it down with a 5/16 1/4" drive deep socket?

If you can get the shaft to stay centered in the block boss it's much easier to get the dizzy to drop.

Get the kids out in the Mahal with you.

They can learn safety and basic principles.

They will be very grateful later in life.

I watch a guy on YouTube who has his three year old daughter welding. (Real welding!)

Cute as a button and already has the basics down pat.

Haven't tried to do anything with the dizzy other than turn the engine over manually a couple of turns. I'll try the grease approach. Thanks.

On the sealer, I want to use something that easy to get out as I have the injectors to go in there eventually. So the Loctite PST seems like a good approach rather than something that sets up and would have to be chipped out.

[Gary Lewis]

Get the kids out in the Mahal with you.

They can learn safety and basic principles.

They will be very grateful later in life.

I watch a guy on YouTube who has his three year old daughter welding. (Real welding!)

Cute as a button and already has the basics down pat.

Somehow I missed that. And I hope now to be able to get them out there with me. I'll have to be careful how I say this, but our granddaughter has never met a button she didn't push. And she didn't take kindly to being told no. She once did exactly what she was told not to do, and when asked why said "Because you told me not to."

Case-in-point: Her other grandfather called a few months ago and couldn't get the Subie started. It'd been setting for a few months at their house and he was sure the battery couldn't be dead. I suggested that he open the right rear door and check the dome light. He asked why there, and I said "That's where your granddaughter sits and she plays with the dome light switch like it is a toy - in spite of being told not to." He called back to say the switch was on and the battery was dead.

Her brother is less obvious about it, but we had a serious discussion a year ago when using the winch on Big Blue to pull the mower out of the "swamp". I handed him the remote and told him not to push the button, but he did anyway. I told him that I was going to give him one more chance - if he didn't do E.X.A.C.T.L.Y what I told him then we were done. He'd go in the house and not touch the truck or the mower again. He listened and obeyed.

So I've been waiting until they mature a bit. I'm hoping that now is the time since they are almost nine. I'll have to have a serious discussion with them when they go in the shop. It is my way or the highway, and there are no second chances. There are buttons, knobs, and levers in there that can hurt someone badly. I really would like to teach them how to make things, how to fix things, and how to use tools - safely. And maybe now is the time.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Get the kids out in the Mahal with you.

They can learn safety and basic principles.

They will be very grateful later in life.

I watch a guy on YouTube who has his three year old daughter welding. (Real welding!)

Cute as a button and already has the basics down pat.

Somehow I missed that. And I hope now to be able to get them out there with me. I'll have to be careful how I say this, but our granddaughter has never met a button she didn't push. And she didn't take kindly to being told no. She once did exactly what she was told not to do, and when asked why said "Because you told me not to."

Case-in-point: Her other grandfather called a few months ago and couldn't get the Subie started. It'd been setting for a few months at their house and he was sure the battery couldn't be dead. I suggested that he open the right rear door and check the dome light. He asked why there, and I said "That's where your granddaughter sits and she plays with the dome light switch like it is a toy - in spite of being told not to." He called back to say the switch was on and the battery was dead.

Her brother is less obvious about it, but we had a serious discussion a year ago when using the winch on Big Blue to pull the mower out of the "swamp". I handed him the remote and told him not to push the button, but he did anyway. I told him that I was going to give him one more chance - if he didn't do E.X.A.C.T.L.Y what I told him then we were done. He'd go in the house and not touch the truck or the mower again. He listened and obeyed.

So I've been waiting until they mature a bit. I'm hoping that now is the time since they are almost nine. I'll have to have a serious discussion with them when they go in the shop. It is my way or the highway, and there are no second chances. There are buttons, knobs, and levers in there that can hurt someone badly. I really would like to teach them how to make things, how to fix things, and how to use tools - safely. And maybe now is the time.

There are also breakers to flip and cords to unplug.

If they want to live in direct opposition to what they're told, you have two options.

Tell them not to do exactly what you want, or allow them to learn a painful (but not fatal) lesson.

I learned how a capacitor stings at a very young age.

Just how hot a soldering iron gets.

And how hard a revolver kicks. (Also what happens to what you point it at)

If they want to be rebellious like teenagers it's best they get it out of their system in a controlled environment.

Not that I should offer child rearing tips.

But I can tell you how to grow up with respect for consequences.

[Gary Lewis]

There are also breakers to flip and cords to unplug.

If they want to live in direct opposition to what they're told, you have two options.

Tell them not to do exactly what you want, or allow them to learn a painful (but not fatal) lesson.

I learned how a capacitor stings at a very young age.

Just how hot a soldering iron gets.

And how hard a revolver kicks. (Also what happens to what you point it at)

If they want to be rebellious like teenagers it's best they get it out of their system in a controlled environment.

Not that I should offer child rearing tips.

But I can tell you how to grow up with respect for consequences.

The lift has a safety to lower it they probably won't figure out, and going up usually doesn't hurt anyone. So as long as they don't have their hand on the chuck when they turn the lathe on, or don't have a good grip on the end mill when they start that, maybe it'll be ok.

They've already learned how to run the mower while sitting in my lap, so they are progressing. So it is time to go into the shop and learn some things there. I've been looking forward to this, and hope the time is right.