Big Blue's Transformation

[ArdWrknTrk]

I wasn't talking about taking much off with the 45. Just enough to allow the coil bracket leg to neatly miss - after I trim the width a bit. So there's actually going to be a lot of meat in the corner.

In fact, the aluminum will be turned around. In the pic below the flange of the channel has been milled (spot-faced) to be flat where the bolt passes through. That was necessary so the piece was parallel.

But when I do this for the final piece I'll turn it so the flat part of the center of the channel will be what goes on top of the valve cover. That way I won't have to spot-face it and there won't be a sharp transition which focuses the loads in one spot. But there will still be a lot of meat in the corner to which a stud can easily be affixed.

However, I've not used a router bit on aluminum. I can see how it would work thought. Instead, what I was hoping to do was to put the piece on the angle table at a 45 and just nip off the sharp corner. Then use a file and round it. Or, if I find the angle table trick to work well I may take a pass at 23 and 68 degrees and then round that. But, in reality, I'd probably be better off to take the flap wheel to it.

You're gonna do what you want, I know that Gary.

Please reconsider using a flap wheel on a long, straight surface *in aluminum*

At the very least try it on scrap first.

A chip breaking file is going to be much more controllable and will leave you a straight line.

1/2" shank router bits work fine in aluminum in the mill

I'm assuming yours is R8?

Rubbing wax on the workpiece helps keep the carbide from gumming up.

[Gary Lewis]

You're gonna do what you want, I know that Gary.

Please reconsider using a flap wheel on a long, straight surface *in aluminum*

At the very least try it on scrap first.

A chip breaking file is going to be much more controllable and will leave you a straight line.

1/2" shank router bits work fine in aluminum in the mill

I'm assuming yours is R8?

Rubbing wax on the workpiece helps keep the carbide from gumming up.

Jim - In the light of day I think the router bit idea looks good. Amazon has this kit which has several different bits for $20. And the corner round one should do what I want to do - right?

The beauty of this approach is that I can put the part in the vise and keep the head vertical. To do my 45 degree idea I'd have to use the angle table and even then I've not figured out how to secure the part in the orientation needed. That's because the head on my mill tilts but doesn't nod.

But you said a can of WD40 and you mentioned wax. So both? Any special kind of wax?

As for RPM, I'll have to look but I think my max may be 2000. Is that enough?

And my mill is R8, but I have a full set of collets, inc the 1/4" needed for those bits.

What else? If I order in the next 8 hours I'll have it tomorrow Amazon says, which is earlier than I need it 'cause I have to cut out the to-be material since I've been working on scrap.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Jim - In the light of day I think the router bit idea looks good. Amazon has this kit which has several different bits for $20. And the corner round one should do what I want to do - right?

The beauty of this approach is that I can put the part in the vise and keep the head vertical. To do my 45 degree idea I'd have to use the angle table and even then I've not figured out how to secure the part in the orientation needed. That's because the head on my mill tilts but doesn't nod.

But you said a can of WD40 and you mentioned wax. So both? Any special kind of wax?

As for RPM, I'll have to look but I think my max may be 2000. Is that enough?

And my mill is R8, but I have a full set of collets, inc the 1/4" needed for those bits.

What else? If I order in the next 8 hours I'll have it tomorrow Amazon says, which is earlier than I need it 'cause I have to cut out the to-be material since I've been working on scrap.

Either, or, both.

The wax is less messy and might be enough to keep the bit from building up aluminum.

Beeswax or paraffin both work

You really should use a 1/2" shank bit.

They're exponentially stiffer.

Yonico 13174 3/8-Inch Radius Round Over Bead Edge Forming Router Bit 1/2-Inch Shank https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CBJK38C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_taa_g2uUEbPQHE7A5

Just start off slow (feed rate)

Even with multiple passes each pass is going to have more engagement that the last.

[Gary Lewis]

Either, or, both.

The wax is less messy and might be enough to keep the bit from building up aluminum.

Beeswax or paraffin both work

You really should use a 1/2" shank bit.

They're exponentially stiffer.

Yonico 13174 3/8-Inch Radius Round Over Bead Edge Forming Router Bit 1/2-Inch Shank https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CBJK38C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_taa_g2uUEbPQHE7A5

Just start off slow (feed rate)

Even with multiple passes each pass is going to have more engagement that the last.

Ordered. Thanks!

I was finding a 1/2" shank & 1/2" radius but thought the radius a bit much. Your find of 3/8" radius is better and less money. And it'll be here tomorrow.

And you are absolutely right on the shaft size. I'm going to guess that the stiffness goes up with the square of the diameter. So 1/2" should be 4 times stiffer than 1/4".

[ArdWrknTrk]

Ordered. Thanks!

I was finding a 1/2" shank & 1/2" radius but thought the radius a bit much. Your find of 3/8" radius is better and less money. And it'll be here tomorrow.

And you are absolutely right on the shaft size. I'm going to guess that the stiffness goes up with the square of the diameter. So 1/2" should be 4 times stiffer than 1/4".

Here's a set of various radii for $25.

Yakamoz 6Pcs 1/2 Inch Shank Round-Over Router Bits Corner Rounding Edge-forming Roundover Beading Router Bit Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07G5YDN9R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_taa_tAvUEb34AH63D

You still have time to change the order....

[ArdWrknTrk]

Ordered. Thanks!

I was finding a 1/2" shank & 1/2" radius but thought the radius a bit much. Your find of 3/8" radius is better and less money. And it'll be here tomorrow.

And you are absolutely right on the shaft size. I'm going to guess that the stiffness goes up with the square of the diameter. So 1/2" should be 4 times stiffer than 1/4".

Cross sectional area is pi R squared.

Plus there's the much deeper beam, so while the area is more you have to consider the modulus of steel as well.

 

[Gary Lewis]

Here's a set of various radii for $25.

Yakamoz 6Pcs 1/2 Inch Shank Round-Over Router Bits Corner Rounding Edge-forming Roundover Beading Router Bit Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07G5YDN9R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_taa_tAvUEb34AH63D

You still have time to change the order....

I like that better! Order changed. Thanks.

Won't be here 'til the 16th, but I have plenty to do 'twixt now and then. Can finalize the design on the actual part, get the coil bracket done save for bending the leg and cutting to length, and even cut out the new part and get all of the other bits done.

And should I get all that done before the 16th I can rebuild the front driveshaft. I have LOTS to do!

[ArdWrknTrk]

I like that better! Order changed. Thanks.

Won't be here 'til the 16th, but I have plenty to do 'twixt now and then. Can finalize the design on the actual part, get the coil bracket done save for bending the leg and cutting to length, and even cut out the new part and get all of the other bits done.

And should I get all that done before the 16th I can rebuild the front driveshaft. I have LOTS to do!

Your motivation never ceases to amaze me, Gary!

[Gary Lewis]

Your motivation never ceases to amaze me, Gary!

Thanks, Jim.

This seems to be the never-ending project. But every once in a while I get a glimpse of a light at the end of the tunnel. I have many of the parts to-hand and can make hay installing them. Then a "little" thing like the dip stick pops up and I have to work with vendors and suppliers to get it, then figure out how to use it.

But with the help of you and the others on here I can find a way to do those things, and do them well. And get encouragement to keep on keeping on. Dunno how a lone wolf does something like this on his own.

[Gary Lewis]

Thanks, Jim.

This seems to be the never-ending project. But every once in a while I get a glimpse of a light at the end of the tunnel. I have many of the parts to-hand and can make hay installing them. Then a "little" thing like the dip stick pops up and I have to work with vendors and suppliers to get it, then figure out how to use it.

But with the help of you and the others on here I can find a way to do those things, and do them well. And get encouragement to keep on keeping on. Dunno how a lone wolf does something like this on his own.

Got the EEC coil bracket done, at least as far as I can go now. Can't finish it until I have the final stay in place and I bend the bracket's leg to fit.

Anyway, I drilled and tapped for the 1/4-20 bolts that will be the studs on which to mount the coil. (Yes, the factory brackets use 1/4-20's.) And I welded those in as well as ran the beads on the bottom to finish the welding. Here's what that looks like:

And here's a shot of the top side, along with its bigger brother:

So now it is time to move on to the stay........