Gary Lewis Posted May 7, 2020 Author Share Posted May 7, 2020 As for the plug wire routing, here's what's on Dad's engine: http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n59659/Rick_Installing_The_Engine.jpg Hey Gary, that guy looks enough like you to be your brother! Lol! Yep, but he got the good looks. 😉 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted May 7, 2020 Share Posted May 7, 2020 Lol! Yep, but he got the good looks. 😉 Go back up and look at my post, I edited it and added pictures (so it did happen) of the heat shields and where they attach. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted May 7, 2020 Share Posted May 7, 2020 Go back up and look at my post, I edited it and added pictures (so it did happen) of the heat shields and where they attach. And note I added studs for you... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted May 7, 2020 Share Posted May 7, 2020 Go back up and look at my post, I edited it and added pictures (so it did happen) of the heat shields and where they attach. And note I added studs for you... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted May 7, 2020 Author Share Posted May 7, 2020 And note I added studs for you... Jim & Bill - Am home and see that you've added a link for studs and pics of the shields. Thanks. Need to work on the joining process a while and then hope to get to the shop to see that the shields will work with the headers and that I can put studs where they are needed. If so I can order the studs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_S85 Posted May 7, 2020 Share Posted May 7, 2020 Happy belated birthday, Bill! Rusty, go snag yourself a van Saginaw from U-techcenter they're cheap. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F201653340417 Gary, you'll be buying some manifold studs to resolve all these issues. I hope the shields fit with the tight bends of those headers. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F163004298516 I might do that if I get a hydroboost conversion for my truck. But I am going to try and use what I have, I honestly don't believe my cam is too big that it should have less than stock 15 - 20 inches of vacuum Cam I have is 216*/224* @ 0.050" with 112* lsa and 107* intake center line. which gives it around 5* advance designed into the cam. All the calculators I have tried said my valve over lap is extremely high like for example using Wallace Racing calculators they want me to use advertised duration and lsa to get overlap, they cite my cam is 58* overlap. But yet using MGI Speedways calculator it comes up for me showing -4* overlap at 0.050" when I punch in advertised as well as @ 0.050. Its a roller cam with very aggressive ramps so I should be able to have the same vacuum as what my smog 302 had which was around 18" of vacuum which should allow my power brake to feel the same way it did with my stock engine. But in the off chance if I am wrong then I will switch over to hydroboost. I wont have a lack of power brakes cause it will be tiring unlike manual brakes on a car built that way that has leverage designed into it. On the headers when it comes time for my dipstick to be installed I will just use a spacer to make up the difference and bolt the OE dipstick to my headers like if I had manifolds. Just will need a spacer and I am going to see if I can get a longer bolt from ARP that has a similar head size to the header bolt set I have. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted May 7, 2020 Author Share Posted May 7, 2020 Jim & Bill - Am home and see that you've added a link for studs and pics of the shields. Thanks. Need to work on the joining process a while and then hope to get to the shop to see that the shields will work with the headers and that I can put studs where they are needed. If so I can order the studs. Ok, got y'all a proposal on the joining process and then took a look at the plug wire shields. Houston, we have a problem. Please read to the very bottom for a proposed solution on which I'd like your input. This pic shows the left shield laying in place. Looks like some minor bending will be needed to get it down in around the plugs, but no big deal. And, bolt just right of #5 plug clears the header enough that I can probably get the stud in there. However, what you can't see in the above pic you can see in the pic below. The bolt just left of the #7 plug is one of those that JUST clear the header, and there's absolutely no way that a stud is going in there. So, I have two ideas, and want your thoughts on them as well as additional ideas. Studs: I could buy the studs Jim provided a link to and turn down those that will hit down in the lathe. But that doesn't make much sense. Stainless: I have plenty of the 3/4" stainless and could turn four pieces down and thread them on each end. I'm leaning strongly to the stainless approach as I'll have to turn the studs down anyway to clear. And I doubt the studs are the right length as they were intended for the much thicker manifolds, so the threads on the inside end may be too long and there may not be enough length to get the shields where they need to be. So I might as well make what I need. Oh, and I plan to run a nut down on the stud to torque them down. Which means there needs to be a shoulder to run the nut down against. And I'll probably use red Loctite on the nut. Here's a rough sketch of what I'm talking about. Thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted May 7, 2020 Share Posted May 7, 2020 Ok, got y'all a proposal on the joining process and then took a look at the plug wire shields. Houston, we have a problem. Please read to the very bottom for a proposed solution on which I'd like your input. This pic shows the left shield laying in place. Looks like some minor bending will be needed to get it down in around the plugs, but no big deal. And, bolt just right of #5 plug clears the header enough that I can probably get the stud in there. However, what you can't see in the above pic you can see in the pic below. The bolt just left of the #7 plug is one of those that JUST clear the header, and there's absolutely no way that a stud is going in there. So, I have two ideas, and want your thoughts on them as well as additional ideas. Studs: I could buy the studs Jim provided a link to and turn down those that will hit down in the lathe. But that doesn't make much sense. Stainless: I have plenty of the 3/4" stainless and could turn four pieces down and thread them on each end. I'm leaning strongly to the stainless approach as I'll have to turn the studs down anyway to clear. And I doubt the studs are the right length as they were intended for the much thicker manifolds, so the threads on the inside end may be too long and there may not be enough length to get the shields where they need to be. So I might as well make what I need. Oh, and I plan to run a nut down on the stud to torque them down. Which means there needs to be a shoulder to run the nut down against. And I'll probably use red Loctite on the nut. Here's a rough sketch of what I'm talking about. Thoughts? I regularly see more than 550F at my exhaust ports (if my non-contact thermometer is to be believed) Maybe put the stud in a collet block and mill some flats directly on it? Possibly put a all-thread stud in the head and sneak the header and two nuts over it. You might be able to get the length you need and have a way to fix the insulator in place if you have an obstruction wrench that fits in there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted May 7, 2020 Author Share Posted May 7, 2020 I regularly see more than 550F at my exhaust ports (if my non-contact thermometer is to be believed) Maybe put the stud in a collet block and mill some flats directly on it? Possibly put a all-thread stud in the head and sneak the header and two nuts over it. You might be able to get the length you need and have a way to fix the insulator in place if you have an obstruction wrench that fits in there. I think you are saying the heat will cause the Loctite to release. Right? As for milling a hex on the stud, I have the equipment to do that, but have never done it. Basically you put the piece in a rotary table, mill a flat, turn it 60 degrees, etc. But that means a lot more work than just threading the ends of the stud as you also have to do more work on the lathe to create the ring that you then mill into a hex. How 'bout Plan C - I have stainless wire and the right gas. Why not weld a stainless nut on? Run the nut down and weld on the bottom side But I don't think I could get nuts down a piece of all-thread and clear the headers. The clearance is so small that it takes those special 12-point headed bolts to clear. I'm thinking the stainless nut and double-ended stainless stud is the way to go. I'll do more checking tomorrow to see if that approach looks like it'll work, and if better ideas don't come in I'll make one and see. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted May 7, 2020 Share Posted May 7, 2020 I think you are saying the heat will cause the Loctite to release. Right? As for milling a hex on the stud, I have the equipment to do that, but have never done it. Basically you put the piece in a rotary table, mill a flat, turn it 60 degrees, etc. But that means a lot more work than just threading the ends of the stud as you also have to do more work on the lathe to create the ring that you then mill into a hex. How 'bout Plan C - I have stainless wire and the right gas. Why not weld a stainless nut on? Run the nut down and weld on the bottom side But I don't think I could get nuts down a piece of all-thread and clear the headers. The clearance is so small that it takes those special 12-point headed bolts to clear. I'm thinking the stainless nut and double-ended stainless stud is the way to go. I'll do more checking tomorrow to see if that approach looks like it'll work, and if better ideas don't come in I'll make one and see. I've never tried using a spindexer or rotary table to put a head on a bolt. Used to have 4,6 &8 sided collet blocks. Capture the bolt in a 4C collet and just flip the block in the mill vise. Alright, if no room for a regular nut, do you think you're going to have room for the heat shield tab and an extra nut to hold it??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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