Big Blue's Transformation

[ArdWrknTrk]

Actually, with a bit more looking I found:

• Stainless Y: And while it is twice the price the $12 price isn't too bad to be here next week

• 3 Y's: This is even cheaper than the other one at $3 each.

But since I only need one the price isn't much different between the two. The stainless has a draw as I think it might be stronger. Thoughts?

This brass one is Prime.... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XDTTM6R/ref=sspa_dk_detail_5?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B07XDTTM6R&pd_rd_w=EZ9nG&pf_rd_p=48d372c1-f7e1-4b8b-9d02-4bd86f5158c5&pd_rd_wg=08IOn&pf_rd_r=6RYBJQTHZ9YV01G0WV77&pd_rd_r=f3ffeb02-b7f9-4f17-afd0-054313ce53e2&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFQQUQ1TVRYRDc5N1YmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA5OTU0MDMxMFdRVVZXM1I1SDkmZW5jcnlwdGVkQWRJZD1BMDUzMTcxN0JQVVVIMkk5N1AxOSZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2RldGFpbCZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

[Gary Lewis]

This brass one is Prime.... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XDTTM6R/ref=sspa_dk_detail_5?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B07XDTTM6R&pd_rd_w=EZ9nG&pf_rd_p=48d372c1-f7e1-4b8b-9d02-4bd86f5158c5&pd_rd_wg=08IOn&pf_rd_r=6RYBJQTHZ9YV01G0WV77&pd_rd_r=f3ffeb02-b7f9-4f17-afd0-054313ce53e2&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFQQUQ1TVRYRDc5N1YmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA5OTU0MDMxMFdRVVZXM1I1SDkmZW5jcnlwdGVkQWRJZD1BMDUzMTcxN0JQVVVIMkk5N1AxOSZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2RldGFpbCZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

Thanks, Jim. But I ordered the $12 stainless one. My reasoning was that a brass Y looks like something you'd get from the hardware store when you pick up more all-thread.

On another topic, the parts from Denny's Driveshafts came in today so I can now go through the front driveshaft.

And, I got several things done today. First, I got the lower steering shaft in, albeit the old one from Dad's truck which has a ripped boot. But I needed it in place to so I'd know where to bend the brake lines and power steering hoses so they'd miss it.

I did get the brake lines from the master cylinder down to the proportioning valve bent to clear the steering shaft. After that I got the hoses for the power steering and hydroboost systems installed. So now I'm in a position to fill the brake system and bleed it. And, I can also fill the power steering system, but since I'm not going to put the belt on the pump when I break the engine in, it'll be a while before I can use that system.

Here's a shot from the front showing the hose routing:

And here's a shot from the top. Note that the dip stick is in there. More about that in a minute.

And now to the dip stick. It is installed, but it is too long for the tab on it to connect to a header bolt. So I'm thinking about making a tab to go under the valve cover bolt you can see near the dip stick. Thoughts? Other suggestions?

[ArdWrknTrk]

Thanks, Jim. But I ordered the $12 stainless one. My reasoning was that a brass Y looks like something you'd get from the hardware store when you pick up more all-thread.

On another topic, the parts from Denny's Driveshafts came in today so I can now go through the front driveshaft.

And, I got several things done today. First, I got the lower steering shaft in, albeit the old one from Dad's truck which has a ripped boot. But I needed it in place to so I'd know where to bend the brake lines and power steering hoses so they'd miss it.

I did get the brake lines from the master cylinder down to the proportioning valve bent to clear the steering shaft. After that I got the hoses for the power steering and hydroboost systems installed. So now I'm in a position to fill the brake system and bleed it. And, I can also fill the power steering system, but since I'm not going to put the belt on the pump when I break the engine in, it'll be a while before I can use that system.

Here's a shot from the front showing the hose routing:

And here's a shot from the top. Note that the dip stick is in there. More about that in a minute.

And now to the dip stick. It is installed, but it is too long for the tab on it to connect to a header bolt. So I'm thinking about making a tab to go under the valve cover bolt you can see near the dip stick. Thoughts? Other suggestions?

I think that's going to be really awkward and sully the look of those beautiful valve covers.

You don't like the bungee cord?

If anything screams "Built, not Bought" (in a trailer park) it's those little makeshift touches.

Seriously, I don't know what the answer is, but I will think about it.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I think that's going to be really awkward and sully the look of those beautiful valve covers.

You don't like the bungee cord?

If anything screams "Built, not Bought" (in a trailer park) it's those little makeshift touches.

Seriously, I don't know what the answer is, but I will think about it.

What's happening with those two holes in the outer corners of the valve cover?

I think a powdercoated strap across them, with a tab reaching out from underneath, to the dipstick would look far better.

Maybe you could kind of mimic the radiused corners cascading down in that overhead shot with your finger?

I'd nibble it out around the baffle to hold a straight line to the inside.

Just a thought...

[ArdWrknTrk]

Thanks, Jim. But I ordered the $12 stainless one. My reasoning was that a brass Y looks like something you'd get from the hardware store when you pick up more all-thread.

On another topic, the parts from Denny's Driveshafts came in today so I can now go through the front driveshaft.

And, I got several things done today. First, I got the lower steering shaft in, albeit the old one from Dad's truck which has a ripped boot. But I needed it in place to so I'd know where to bend the brake lines and power steering hoses so they'd miss it.

I did get the brake lines from the master cylinder down to the proportioning valve bent to clear the steering shaft. After that I got the hoses for the power steering and hydroboost systems installed. So now I'm in a position to fill the brake system and bleed it. And, I can also fill the power steering system, but since I'm not going to put the belt on the pump when I break the engine in, it'll be a while before I can use that system.

Here's a shot from the front showing the hose routing:

And here's a shot from the top. Note that the dip stick is in there. More about that in a minute.

And now to the dip stick. It is installed, but it is too long for the tab on it to connect to a header bolt. So I'm thinking about making a tab to go under the valve cover bolt you can see near the dip stick. Thoughts? Other suggestions?

You know that double cardan joint in the shaft is a Marmon-Harrington design.

Shaun mentioned them the other day.

Up on Fishers Island they used to use a converted 6wd fire truck to plow the snow off the runway.

That thing was cool.

A huge swing blade off the side of the truck and a giant rotary plow on the front.

 

[Gary Lewis]

You know that double cardan joint in the shaft is a Marmon-Harrington design.

Shaun mentioned them the other day.

Up on Fishers Island they used to use a converted 6wd fire truck to plow the snow off the runway.

That thing was cool.

A huge swing blade off the side of the truck and a giant rotary plow on the front.

I don't think a straight strap would work between those two holes as the holes sit inboard a bit and a strap looks like it would hit the valve cover. But, a strap with tabs on the ends, which may be what you meant, would work. Or, a piece of the channel I used to make the battery hold downs could be milled in a wide U to fit between those holes. And it could have part of the lip hanging down to stiffen it.

Another approach would be to come up from the header's bolt with a bracket.

However, I just went out to look and the dip stick really needs to be something like 4" away from the left edge of the valve cover. That's because the dip stick has to curve out around the headers. So if the handle is take in closer to the valve cover it'll be pointing in at the top and pulling it out will be awkward.

It really needs to come straight up from that position roughly 4" outboard of the engine. And I'm thinking that a piece of angle down to the perch might be the best approach.

But, keep those ideas coming in, please!

[ArdWrknTrk]

I don't think a straight strap would work between those two holes as the holes sit inboard a bit and a strap looks like it would hit the valve cover. But, a strap with tabs on the ends, which may be what you meant, would work. Or, a piece of the channel I used to make the battery hold downs could be milled in a wide U to fit between those holes. And it could have part of the lip hanging down to stiffen it.

Another approach would be to come up from the header's bolt with a bracket.

However, I just went out to look and the dip stick really needs to be something like 4" away from the left edge of the valve cover. That's because the dip stick has to curve out around the headers. So if the handle is take in closer to the valve cover it'll be pointing in at the top and pulling it out will be awkward.

It really needs to come straight up from that position roughly 4" outboard of the engine. And I'm thinking that a piece of angle down to the perch might be the best approach.

But, keep those ideas coming in, please!

I don't think I'd want to locate it to something that doesn't move with the engine.

Too bad this wasn't all mocked up before the mount adapter plates were finalized.

Something from there might snake up around the headers just like the dipstick

[Gary Lewis]

I don't think I'd want to locate it to something that doesn't move with the engine.

Too bad this wasn't all mocked up before the mount adapter plates were finalized.

Something from there might snake up around the headers just like the dipstick

You have a good point. The outside of the dip stick is woven so is flexible. But, it is just a question of how long before it fails since the engine will always be moving on the mounts.

So I'm back to looking for a way to have a bracket from the engine. I'll sleep on it and see what I can come up with tomorrow. But keep the ideas coming.

[Rusty_S85]

Jim - You are absolutely correct. The Y looks to be a much better solution. It is a 3/8" line, and this one from Amazon would work but the delivery date is way too far out. So if anyone finds a brass 3/8" Y that's available "now" I need it.

With hydroboost if you are using a single return don't use a Y, use a T. Have the power steering return in a straight line on the T and have the hydroboost return through the T leg so the constant flowing steering fluid will direct the hydroboost return which only happens upon hitting and releasing the brakes into the pump.

Me if I run a hydroboost on my truck if there isn't enough vacuum with my cam I am going to be sourcing a newer style diesel powersteering pump reservoir can that has the hydroboost return built in and reuse my OE pump.

Ive done that numerous times with GM pumps when swaping to hydroboost. I know a 87 I believe it is on the F-super duty trucks had hydroboost and the pumps were the same pump with a different can as far as I can tell. I would source this pump as its cheaper than a aftermarket universal one and just source the can to use inplace of my OE can.

[Gary Lewis]

With hydroboost if you are using a single return don't use a Y, use a T. Have the power steering return in a straight line on the T and have the hydroboost return through the T leg so the constant flowing steering fluid will direct the hydroboost return which only happens upon hitting and releasing the brakes into the pump.

Me if I run a hydroboost on my truck if there isn't enough vacuum with my cam I am going to be sourcing a newer style diesel powersteering pump reservoir can that has the hydroboost return built in and reuse my OE pump.

Ive done that numerous times with GM pumps when swaping to hydroboost. I know a 87 I believe it is on the F-super duty trucks had hydroboost and the pumps were the same pump with a different can as far as I can tell. I would source this pump as its cheaper than a aftermarket universal one and just source the can to use inplace of my OE can.

So you are saying that the main flow will be from the steering gear and it should go through the straight part of the T and into the pump. And what little flow comes from the hydroboost system will get directed by the power steering fluid?

That makes sense with what I'm reading in the FSM, which says "With the Hydro-Boost at rest (engine (6007) on, brakes released) power steering fluid flows from the inlet port, across the number 3 land and through the outlet port to the steering gear."

Ok, I'll give it a try. I can do that plumbing tomorrow and then go to the Y if I have to. But, how will I know if I have a problem with the return?