Big Blue's Transformation

[Gary Lewis]

Seems to be in Stock Amazon Prime.

"3 left in stock."

They're showing me Apr 27th delivery

I don't think that is the right one. It is ED-5011 but not -24 which designates 24". According to Lokar's numbering scheme that makes it a 12"

And, the price of $75.42 is consistent with everyone's price for the 12". Instead, the 24" unit is ~$111.

But, it does say "23.2 x 6 x 1 inches".

[85lebaront2]

I don't think that is the right one. It is ED-5011 but not -24 which designates 24". According to Lokar's numbering scheme that makes it a 12"

And, the price of $75.42 is consistent with everyone's price for the 12". Instead, the 24" unit is ~$111.

But, it does say "23.2 x 6 x 1 inches".

Gary, that could be the stick length, not the tube length. I can measure the stick length on Darth's tomorrow, or maybe Jim could, his should be the same as the screw in style seems to have died with the carbureted engines.

[Bruce moose4x4]

Gary, that could be the stick length, not the tube length. I can measure the stick length on Darth's tomorrow, or maybe Jim could, his should be the same as the screw in style seems to have died with the carbureted engines.

Might find something on here. Dipsticks and tubes

https://mastaperformance.com/

[ArdWrknTrk]

I don't think that is the right one. It is ED-5011 but not -24 which designates 24". According to Lokar's numbering scheme that makes it a 12"

And, the price of $75.42 is consistent with everyone's price for the 12". Instead, the 24" unit is ~$111.

But, it does say "23.2 x 6 x 1 inches".

I think you're right Gary.

Got so excited to get a hit I mashed the post button without a second thought.

While I realize it's kinda a niche product, where the hell does 12" of tubing cost $35?!?!

I mean both ends are the same, right?

The same steps and machines go into making it.

[Gary Lewis]

I think you're right Gary.

Got so excited to get a hit I mashed the post button without a second thought.

While I realize it's kinda a niche product, where the hell does 12" of tubing cost $35?!?!

I mean both ends are the same, right?

The same steps and machines go into making it.

Bill - In this case the stick and the tube are very close in length as the stick only protrudes ~1". Anyway, I think Jim and I've come to the same conclusion - the Amazon listing is for a 12" tube.

Bruce - I'll call those folks. They don't seem to have an off-the-shelf product that fits the bill, but I'll contact them. Thanks!

Jim - Yes, I was excited as well when I found it. But the price and the part number seem to say it is a 12" model, and Amazon doesn't find a -24 when I search for it. And, I can't justify $35 for 12" of tubing, and that is the only difference.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Bill - In this case the stick and the tube are very close in length as the stick only protrudes ~1". Anyway, I think Jim and I've come to the same conclusion - the Amazon listing is for a 12" tube.

Bruce - I'll call those folks. They don't seem to have an off-the-shelf product that fits the bill, but I'll contact them. Thanks!

Jim - Yes, I was excited as well when I found it. But the price and the part number seem to say it is a 12" model, and Amazon doesn't find a -24 when I search for it. And, I can't justify $35 for 12" of tubing, and that is the only difference.

You can justify about anything when you need it done.

Seems a bit outrageous though.

[Gary Lewis]

You can justify about anything when you need it done.

Seems a bit outrageous though.

I just spoke with the guy at Masta Performance. He doesn't have a pre-built dip stick for this application. But he suggested one of two things:

• Kit: He sells a kit for $80 that has the tube, stick, o-ring, & locking handle.

• Made To Fit: If I want to bend up something, like copper tubing or whatever, with the right bracket on it, send it to him and he'll make one that will fit perfectly for $80.

So, I'm mulling this over. On the one hand I could play with the one I have and potentially get it to work. It'll take modifying the bracket some, maybe a lot, and a bit more bending. But in the end I think I can get it to work. However the tube isn't perfectly round because of previous damage, and the dip stick doesn't really want to go, but does and probably would go better if it were dripping with oil.

But, if I kink it I'll have a fall-back plan, either his kit or send him the results of my bending/welding/brazing and let him make me a new one.

On the other hand, for not much more I can just go ahead and order the Lokar one and busy myself with lots of other things while waiting for it to come in. I think I was just mad/frustrated yesterday when it turned out that they won't even SHIP until May 15th. But today that doesn't seem like it is a huge problem since there are a lot of other things to do in the interim.

And, the idea of a flexible tube has a lot of merit 'cause there are a LOT of other things down in that space, like brake and hydroboost lines. And I don't even have the steering shaft in yet. So having something that could weave around those sounds good. And, the extra $30 isn't that big of a deterrent.

Please give me your thoughts on this. And I'll think about it as well - while I install a t-case and a few other things.

[Gary Lewis]

I just spoke with the guy at Masta Performance. He doesn't have a pre-built dip stick for this application. But he suggested one of two things:

• Kit: He sells a kit for $80 that has the tube, stick, o-ring, & locking handle.

• Made To Fit: If I want to bend up something, like copper tubing or whatever, with the right bracket on it, send it to him and he'll make one that will fit perfectly for $80.

So, I'm mulling this over. On the one hand I could play with the one I have and potentially get it to work. It'll take modifying the bracket some, maybe a lot, and a bit more bending. But in the end I think I can get it to work. However the tube isn't perfectly round because of previous damage, and the dip stick doesn't really want to go, but does and probably would go better if it were dripping with oil.

But, if I kink it I'll have a fall-back plan, either his kit or send him the results of my bending/welding/brazing and let him make me a new one.

On the other hand, for not much more I can just go ahead and order the Lokar one and busy myself with lots of other things while waiting for it to come in. I think I was just mad/frustrated yesterday when it turned out that they won't even SHIP until May 15th. But today that doesn't seem like it is a huge problem since there are a lot of other things to do in the interim.

And, the idea of a flexible tube has a lot of merit 'cause there are a LOT of other things down in that space, like brake and hydroboost lines. And I don't even have the steering shaft in yet. So having something that could weave around those sounds good. And, the extra $30 isn't that big of a deterrent.

Please give me your thoughts on this. And I'll think about it as well - while I install a t-case and a few other things.

Made good progress today. The transfer case is in and the rear driveshaft is in. And the front driveshaft is in but I have a question - how do you measure to make sure the driveshaft is the right length?

In the pic below, which is when the truck is in the air and the front suspension is hanging, the end of the tape is on a black mark that is where the rear edge of the yoke comes to when the truck is on the ground. And the measurement is 1 5/8" of travel. But, there's more weight to be put on the front end (radiator, front bumper, and winch) so the front will come down a bit more, meaning that the shaft will go in more in a steady state, and a lot more when hitting a bump.

On the other hand, in this pic the splines are 1 1/2" out of the front yoke. I don't know how long the splines are so don't know how close to the end that is, so perhaps I need to pull the yoke off the diff and see?

Also, I put the shock in place, which fits perfectly with the temp position I have the tower in, and found that the shock would allow the axle to drop another 1 5/8". So maybe I need to figure out how much farther that would pull the splines out? I think I can approximate that based on the ratio of articulation vs driveshaft length changes.

And, maybe I could use the length of the shock's travel to then figure out how much farther in the shaft can go on a bump?

Or, if the shaft won't quite come out at full extension do I not worry about it? Maybe I need to call Erik at Sky?

Anyway, here's a shot of the t-case and rear driveshaft in. The 4wd indicator wire is connected but the speedo cable isn't in yet as I need to look at the routing around the speed control transducer since the cable is a bit short.

[salans7]

Made good progress today. The transfer case is in and the rear driveshaft is in. And the front driveshaft is in but I have a question - how do you measure to make sure the driveshaft is the right length?

In the pic below, which is when the truck is in the air and the front suspension is hanging, the end of the tape is on a black mark that is where the rear edge of the yoke comes to when the truck is on the ground. And the measurement is 1 5/8" of travel. But, there's more weight to be put on the front end (radiator, front bumper, and winch) so the front will come down a bit more, meaning that the shaft will go in more in a steady state, and a lot more when hitting a bump.

On the other hand, in this pic the splines are 1 1/2" out of the front yoke. I don't know how long the splines are so don't know how close to the end that is, so perhaps I need to pull the yoke off the diff and see?

Also, I put the shock in place, which fits perfectly with the temp position I have the tower in, and found that the shock would allow the axle to drop another 1 5/8". So maybe I need to figure out how much farther that would pull the splines out? I think I can approximate that based on the ratio of articulation vs driveshaft length changes.

And, maybe I could use the length of the shock's travel to then figure out how much farther in the shaft can go on a bump?

Or, if the shaft won't quite come out at full extension do I not worry about it? Maybe I need to call Erik at Sky?

Anyway, here's a shot of the t-case and rear driveshaft in. The 4wd indicator wire is connected but the speedo cable isn't in yet as I need to look at the routing around the speed control transducer since the cable is a bit short.

If I remember correctly, that's about 60-70% of the spline showing. But I would definitely verify.

[Gary Lewis]

If I remember correctly, that's about 60-70% of the spline showing. But I would definitely verify.

Yes, I think I'd better do that.

I'll measure the articulation and figure out how much farther the spline will move with the additional 1 5/8" of movement that the shocks will allow. And, I'll put the yoke and see how long the splines are. That should tell me how close to coming out the stub will be at full travel.

As I think about it, the best bet for the stub not bottoming in the yoke when the suspension bottoms is when the stub almost comes out at full extension. Right?