Big Blue's Transformation

[Gary Lewis]

Well, I'm not sure "hot" applies, but progress is being made.

 

Anyway, I think I got to the bottom of things on the wiring. I think I did. But at one point today I was about to pull the column and C305A harness and go back with the originals. But that would take fixing the probably-broken tilt column awa swapping out the lower bearing, and certainly take repairing the C305A harness that was hacked.

 

I've put the spreadsheet here for discussion purposes, although it automagically is updated in the previous post. But I modified it to show the 4 versions of C305(A) and the wire colors in each.

 

At first I was quite concerned about all of the differences in colors in the middle of the s/s, but then I thought that perhaps the differences were in the darkness of colors, like the blues, the vendors chose and decided to just test the circuits. Sure enough, all of the stop/turn/hazard circuits work, so I colored those cells green.

 

That let me focus on the two rows top and bottom, and I soon realized that the buzzer issue is on the top row, what I'm calling Pin 1 of the C305 connectors. (I haven't found any illustrations with official pin numbering, so I made my own.) What is happening is that the wire that is supposed to provide power to the speed control, the white/purple wire, is getting connected to the buzzer's input, and the speed control provides just enough "sink" to turn the buzzer on. I proved that by pulling the connector off the speed control itself and the buzzer doesn't sound.

 

And there's also the potential issue of the instrument illumination wiring, the last row with the blue/red wire. The gauges on the dash light up, but I've not checked anything else. Will do tomorrow.

 

As for fixing the power feed issue to the speed control, I think I must have missed something in the last C305 connector's wires. Surely that power feed is there, but just in the wrong spot. If so I can move the pin in the 3rd connector to that position and the speed control should be happy. But, I won't have any key-in-ignition warning when the door is opened as this column doesn't have that feature in it. However, I think I can live with that.

 

Looks like there was another change 'twixt 1981 and 1985. In '81 the PRNDL indicator was illuminated, and it doesn't appear to have been in '85. :nabble_anim_confused:The '81 schematic on the left shows the C305 connectors and the bulb, but the '85 schematic on the right doesn't. So there's no problem with the last row of the spreadsheet. Now to figure out the first row......

[salans7]

Looks like there was another change 'twixt 1981 and 1985. In '81 the PRNDL indicator was illuminated, and it doesn't appear to have been in '85.

The '81 schematic on the left shows the C305 connectors and the bulb, but the '85 schematic on the right doesn't. So there's no problem with the last row of the spreadsheet. Now to figure out the first row......

Why is there a bulb shown for Defrost Control AND Heater/AC control on the 85 schematic? Or is that for Broncos for the rear defrost switch?

[kramttocs]

Why is there a bulb shown for Defrost Control AND Heater/AC control on the 85 schematic? Or is that for Broncos for the rear defrost switch?

Yes - Bronco.

The 86 shows it correctly

http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/instrument-illumination1.html

 

[Gary Lewis]

Yes - Bronco.

The 86 shows it correctly

http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/instrument-illumination1.html

Good question, Shaun. Good explanation, Scott.

And note that even the '86 doesn't show the PRNDL indicator as being lit. However, in spite of the '81 EVTM showing it the 1981 Owner's Guide does not list a shift indicator in the Light Bulb Spec's - unless I'm missing it.

So, is this one of those things that was meant to be but didn't happen?

[kramttocs]

Good question, Shaun. Good explanation, Scott.

And note that even the '86 doesn't show the PRNDL indicator as being lit. However, in spite of the '81 EVTM showing it the 1981 Owner's Guide does not list a shift indicator in the Light Bulb Spec's - unless I'm missing it.

So, is this one of those things that was meant to be but didn't happen?

I feel like I read something once about that light. I am trying to find the post but it was something along the lines of someone getting a new turn signal that had an extra wire and someone else saying the wire was for a van that had the gear indicator lit up on the column itself (one of those see through things). It may be completely unrelated but your post just triggered that memory.

[Gary Lewis]

I feel like I read something once about that light. I am trying to find the post but it was something along the lines of someone getting a new turn signal that had an extra wire and someone else saying the wire was for a van that had the gear indicator lit up on the column itself (one of those see through things). It may be completely unrelated but your post just triggered that memory.

I haven't found anything about the light, but I did get quite a few details worked out today.

First, I checked out the C305(A) situation. Sure enough, there was a white/purple in the connector going to the truck, and it had power on it for the speed control. So in the connector going to the speed control I pulled the red retainer, removed the blue/red wire in Pin 11's slot and put the white/purple wire there. And then I covered the blue/red wire with heat shrink, although it doesn't appear to connect to anything.

Then I checked and the buzzer no longer buzzes when the door is opened, and the speed control gets power when the key is turned to Run. So I'm calling that problem SOLVED!

Next was the original aux battery relay. You'll remember that the plan was to pull the trigger wire to it as well as the trigger wire to the key-on relay off the aux battery relay and put a screw through them. That would prevent the aux battery relay from coming on, but allow the key-on relay to still function. Well, in the pic below the trigger wire is the one with the molded connector, and I thought it would be a pain to secure the wire below it to it and get that insulated with heat shrink. So instead I pulled the grounds off the empty stud, tied them together with a screw and nut, put heat-shrink on them, and tied the combo with a red zip tie to the adjacent wire. Problem solved: the aux battery relay doesn't come in but all of the other wires are still getting power, and the key-on relay does come on and shows the aux battery voltage on the aftermarket voltmeter. (Well, it didn't appear to be working when I first got done until I realized I'd not connected the aux battery up so the voltmeter was showing exactly what was on that circuit - nada. )

Then I pulled the hot lead to the starter and turned the key to Start. Sure enough, the relay in the starter itself came in with a loud clunk. Then I pulled the trigger lead off the starter, tied my test light to it, turned the key to Start, and used a bungee to hold it there. The light came on, brightly, although it is kinda hard to see in the pic so I gave you a bit of help.

Then I worked under the truck for about two hours neatening up the wiring and speedo cable, all the while watching the light. And nothing I did caused it to blink, and I moved and stretched all the wiring and associated connectors, so I'm confident that the Start circuit is solid.

So, what did I do while working under there? First I cleaned off the grease that was all over the speedo cable, only to find it damaged. So I replaced the cable with one from the attic. And I lubed the cable before I put it on.

Then I tied the wiring on the frame rail down, covered some of it with convolute, and generally neatened it up and ensured it won't move. Here's a shot of it ahead of the transmission crossmember. Note that the clutch slave cylinder is now installed. (I'm not sure you are supposed to open the bleeder valve to compress the piston, but that's what I did and it worked.)

And here's a shot of the wiring aft of the crossmember.

With that, all I need to do to call the electrical system done is to tie the batteries down. Hopefully that will easily happen tomorrow after church and I'll be ready for the headers.

Oh, wait! I still have a fuse in the clutch start switch connector. So I will pull the hot lead off the starter again, pull the fuse, connect the wire to the switch, and see if the start circuit actually works.

 

[Sac79]

I haven't found anything about the light, but I did get quite a few details worked out today.

First, I checked out the C305(A) situation. Sure enough, there was a white/purple in the connector going to the truck, and it had power on it for the speed control. So in the connector going to the speed control I pulled the red retainer, removed the blue/red wire in Pin 11's slot and put the white/purple wire there. And then I covered the blue/red wire with heat shrink, although it doesn't appear to connect to anything.

Then I checked and the buzzer no longer buzzes when the door is opened, and the speed control gets power when the key is turned to Run. So I'm calling that problem SOLVED!

Next was the original aux battery relay. You'll remember that the plan was to pull the trigger wire to it as well as the trigger wire to the key-on relay off the aux battery relay and put a screw through them. That would prevent the aux battery relay from coming on, but allow the key-on relay to still function. Well, in the pic below the trigger wire is the one with the molded connector, and I thought it would be a pain to secure the wire below it to it and get that insulated with heat shrink. So instead I pulled the grounds off the empty stud, tied them together with a screw and nut, put heat-shrink on them, and tied the combo with a red zip tie to the adjacent wire. Problem solved: the aux battery relay doesn't come in but all of the other wires are still getting power, and the key-on relay does come on and shows the aux battery voltage on the aftermarket voltmeter. (Well, it didn't appear to be working when I first got done until I realized I'd not connected the aux battery up so the voltmeter was showing exactly what was on that circuit - nada. )

Then I pulled the hot lead to the starter and turned the key to Start. Sure enough, the relay in the starter itself came in with a loud clunk. Then I pulled the trigger lead off the starter, tied my test light to it, turned the key to Start, and used a bungee to hold it there. The light came on, brightly, although it is kinda hard to see in the pic so I gave you a bit of help.

Then I worked under the truck for about two hours neatening up the wiring and speedo cable, all the while watching the light. And nothing I did caused it to blink, and I moved and stretched all the wiring and associated connectors, so I'm confident that the Start circuit is solid.

So, what did I do while working under there? First I cleaned off the grease that was all over the speedo cable, only to find it damaged. So I replaced the cable with one from the attic. And I lubed the cable before I put it on.

Then I tied the wiring on the frame rail down, covered some of it with convolute, and generally neatened it up and ensured it won't move. Here's a shot of it ahead of the transmission crossmember. Note that the clutch slave cylinder is now installed. (I'm not sure you are supposed to open the bleeder valve to compress the piston, but that's what I did and it worked.)

And here's a shot of the wiring aft of the crossmember.

With that, all I need to do to call the electrical system done is to tie the batteries down. Hopefully that will easily happen tomorrow after church and I'll be ready for the headers.

Oh, wait! I still have a fuse in the clutch start switch connector. So I will pull the hot lead off the starter again, pull the fuse, connect the wire to the switch, and see if the start circuit actually works.

Progress is good. Is it still your plan to take a break from the truck(s) for a while?

[Gary Lewis]

Progress is good. Is it still your plan to take a break from the truck(s) for a while?

Yes, I still plan to take a break, but the date for that has shifted roughly a month. Our daughter, SiL, and grandtwins were to arrive today. But they recently informed us that they are not going to do that, instead staying where they are in the Houston area for another month to, hopefully, get past the peak of the virus.

So I'll continue working on Big Blue and as we get closer to their arrival, maybe in late April, I'll figure out a new check-point. Maybe I'll get the headers, t-case, and driveshafts installed. Then the carb adapter and fuel system. And then I could start it!

[Gary Lewis]

Yes, I still plan to take a break, but the date for that has shifted roughly a month. Our daughter, SiL, and grandtwins were to arrive today. But they recently informed us that they are not going to do that, instead staying where they are in the Houston area for another month to, hopefully, get past the peak of the virus.

So I'll continue working on Big Blue and as we get closer to their arrival, maybe in late April, I'll figure out a new check-point. Maybe I'll get the headers, t-case, and driveshafts installed. Then the carb adapter and fuel system. And then I could start it!

Well, I didn't get the batteries secured today, for two reasons. First, the main battery doesn't have the ledge on the bottom against which the later style wedges secure the battery. So, I'll have to use the old-school style. And the plastic arm/bracket/holder I have is the wrong size. So I'm considering making something to secure both batteries.

And what I'm thinking about is using aluminum channel. The j-hooks are offset, so the hold-down has to angle across. But I have plenty of 3" aluminum channel and could cut it at the right angle, drill holes in it for the j-hooks, powder coat them, and be done. Thoughts?

Second, because I realized that I needed to make the brace/bracket for the outside end of the coolant reservoir before I put the aux battery in as the bracket will bolt to a hole under the battery. So I made the bracket.

It is made from 1 1/2" angle and is in the shape of an L with the foot of the L going under the battery tray and being held by the washer-headed screw right at the bottom of the pic. The bracket itself is tapped 1/4-20 and there's a nut tack-welded to the underside of the foot of the L as well. And the top of the bracket is tapped 8 x 1.25 mm to accept on of the common bolts used on the front of the truck.

The bracket works, as you can see below, but I need to round some corners, shorten that bolt, and media-blast and powder coat both.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Well, I didn't get the batteries secured today, for two reasons. First, the main battery doesn't have the ledge on the bottom against which the later style wedges secure the battery. So, I'll have to use the old-school style. And the plastic arm/bracket/holder I have is the wrong size. So I'm considering making something to secure both batteries.

And what I'm thinking about is using aluminum channel. The j-hooks are offset, so the hold-down has to angle across. But I have plenty of 3" aluminum channel and could cut it at the right angle, drill holes in it for the j-hooks, powder coat them, and be done. Thoughts?

Second, because I realized that I needed to make the brace/bracket for the outside end of the coolant reservoir before I put the aux battery in as the bracket will bolt to a hole under the battery. So I made the bracket.

It is made from 1 1/2" angle and is in the shape of an L with the foot of the L going under the battery tray and being held by the washer-headed screw right at the bottom of the pic. The bracket itself is tapped 1/4-20 and there's a nut tack-welded to the underside of the foot of the L as well. And the top of the bracket is tapped 8 x 1.25 mm to accept on of the common bolts used on the front of the truck.

The bracket works, as you can see below, but I need to round some corners, shorten that bolt, and media-blast and powder coat both.

I wouldn't use aluminum.

It will eventually fail if subjected to load cycling.

Holding a 60#(?) battery in place while bouncing down a trail is just asking for trouble.

And then there's the corrosive nature of most batteries.

Just my thoughts,