Big Blue's Transformation

[Gary Lewis]

A single LED festoon bulb is pulling that much?

There were other things on, inc the door-open buzzer, which got obnoxious so I closed the doors. I'll check to see what it pulls by itself.

Hooked up the starter battery through a fuse so I could test things.

Tried the starter relay, but someone put a clutch switch in the circuit, so it doesn't come in. And the same guy hasn't installed the slave cylinder, so he's a bit reluctant to push the pedal down for fear it'll over-extend the slave. I'll see if there's power to the switch and maybe jumper it.

Tried the headlights and the high and low beam outputs work perfectly, so I need to get the wire.

And will check the Key-On relay, which will be obvious via the voltmeter which replaced the ammeter.

Tried the blower motor, and no dice on any speed. Not sure what that means, but I'll check that out after this coffee/brownie break. Can't be the relay I put in as it only put it in the ..... wrong wire? Uh Oh! Gotta go look!

 

[Gary Lewis]

There were other things on, inc the door-open buzzer, which got obnoxious so I closed the doors. I'll check to see what it pulls by itself.

Hooked up the starter battery through a fuse so I could test things.

Tried the starter relay, but someone put a clutch switch in the circuit, so it doesn't come in. And the same guy hasn't installed the slave cylinder, so he's a bit reluctant to push the pedal down for fear it'll over-extend the slave. I'll see if there's power to the switch and maybe jumper it.

Tried the headlights and the high and low beam outputs work perfectly, so I need to get the wire.

And will check the Key-On relay, which will be obvious via the voltmeter which replaced the ammeter.

Tried the blower motor, and no dice on any speed. Not sure what that means, but I'll check that out after this coffee/brownie break. Can't be the relay I put in as it only put it in the ..... wrong wire? Uh Oh! Gotta go look!

Do wires know what colors they wear? Looks like I put the relay in the brown/orange wire instead of the orange/black wire.

So instead of the relay, should it pull in, grounding the motor it'll ground the 30a fuse.

Gotta go........

[ArdWrknTrk]

There were other things on, inc the door-open buzzer, which got obnoxious so I closed the doors. I'll check to see what it pulls by itself.

Hooked up the starter battery through a fuse so I could test things.

Tried the starter relay, but someone put a clutch switch in the circuit, so it doesn't come in. And the same guy hasn't installed the slave cylinder, so he's a bit reluctant to push the pedal down for fear it'll over-extend the slave. I'll see if there's power to the switch and maybe jumper it.

Tried the headlights and the high and low beam outputs work perfectly, so I need to get the wire.

And will check the Key-On relay, which will be obvious via the voltmeter which replaced the ammeter.

Tried the blower motor, and no dice on any speed. Not sure what that means, but I'll check that out after this coffee/brownie break. Can't be the relay I put in as it only put it in the ..... wrong wire? Uh Oh! Gotta go look!

Remember, you can always jumper the clutch safety with a spare fuse..

[Gary Lewis]

Remember, you can always jumper the clutch safety with a spare fuse..

Ok, I'll admit it, I messed up. Orange/black, brown/orange, black/orange. Man, did I have it wrong. But it is right now and everything but the starter and fuel pump relay are working.

More 'bout that in a minute, but I did find a problem in my design - the blower relay is pulled in all the time if the blower switch is in high, whether the key is off or on. So I have to change the blower relay such that its coil is powered by the Key-On relay - instead of the 30a fuse I currently have powering the coil.

Now for the Start relay. I did as you suggested, Jim, and put a mini-fuse in the clutch switch. No go, literally. So I checked and I have 12v to both sides of the fuse, but it doesn't get to my Start relay. Then I checked between the ignition model and my relay and the red/light blue wire does connect the two, just like it should. But, there's no connection from under the hood to inside the cab, meaning to the clutch switch.

I think this is the problem I was having intermittently before the transformation, but it has come back in spades. And apparently it wasn't the tilt column. In any event, the first diagram below shows that I have power from the ignition switch to the clutch switch. The second diagram shows where I don't have power. In both diagrams I've circled the connectors where I think the problem might lie.

So tomorrow I hope to figure out where the problem is, and those connectors are where I'll start.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Ok, I'll admit it, I messed up. Orange/black, brown/orange, black/orange. Man, did I have it wrong. But it is right now and everything but the starter and fuel pump relay are working.

More 'bout that in a minute, but I did find a problem in my design - the blower relay is pulled in all the time if the blower switch is in high, whether the key is off or on. So I have to change the blower relay such that its coil is powered by the Key-On relay - instead of the 30a fuse I currently have powering the coil.

Now for the Start relay. I did as you suggested, Jim, and put a mini-fuse in the clutch switch. No go, literally. So I checked and I have 12v to both sides of the fuse, but it doesn't get to my Start relay. Then I checked between the ignition model and my relay and the red/light blue wire does connect the two, just like it should. But, there's no connection from under the hood to inside the cab, meaning to the clutch switch.

I think this is the problem I was having intermittently before the transformation, but it has come back in spades. And apparently it wasn't the tilt column. In any event, the first diagram below shows that I have power from the ignition switch to the clutch switch. The second diagram shows where I don't have power. In both diagrams I've circled the connectors where I think the problem might lie.

So tomorrow I hope to figure out where the problem is, and those connectors are where I'll start.

Where is circuit 33 (white/pink) if you're not using EFI at this time?

Shouldn't connector 128 just be plugged together, eliminating all of that?

What happens if 33 finds ground?

Wont it just blow a fuse?

[ArdWrknTrk]

Where is circuit 33 (white/pink) if you're not using EFI at this time?

Shouldn't connector 128 just be plugged together, eliminating all of that?

What happens if 33 finds ground?

Wont it just blow a fuse?

I keep forgetting how much of this wiring is 'temporary' so you're not going to eliminate that splice, but if it were me (and I had a bunch of harnii) I'd be making a jumper and taking 33 out of the equation entirely.

190 direct to 128

 

[Gary Lewis]

I keep forgetting how much of this wiring is 'temporary' so you're not going to eliminate that splice, but if it were me (and I had a bunch of harnii) I'd be making a jumper and taking 33 out of the equation entirely.

190 direct to 128

The neutral safety switch came into being in '84, I think, and the various EVTM's show the wiring to it differently and, I think, none show it correctly. But it appears that Ckt 32 comes from the ignition switch to the clutch switch, then out of the cab and down the frame rail to C128, which is said to be "near the dual brake warning switch on LH side of crossmember." At C128 it either wraps back if the vehicle has a manual trans or goes to the neutral safety switch on an auto. From there it goes back through C128 and up the frame rail to C121, which is "below the junction block" on the firewall near the steering column, where it splits with one side going to the start relay on the passenger's side and the other going to the ignition module on the driver's side.

Yesterday I couldn't find either of those connectors. Which is strange because C128 is said to be an 18-pin connector, so should be pretty obvious. But if I get to the shop today I'm going to go over it very closely and trace the circuit. Somewhere there's a disconnect in it and I'm going to find it.

Then, I may do some "simplification", but not 'til I figure out what is going on.

For reference, here's where the EVTM's show the connectors"

[85lebaront2]

The neutral safety switch came into being in '84, I think, and the various EVTM's show the wiring to it differently and, I think, none show it correctly. But it appears that Ckt 32 comes from the ignition switch to the clutch switch, then out of the cab and down the frame rail to C128, which is said to be "near the dual brake warning switch on LH side of crossmember." At C128 it either wraps back if the vehicle has a manual trans or goes to the neutral safety switch on an auto. From there it goes back through C128 and up the frame rail to C121, which is "below the junction block" on the firewall near the steering column, where it splits with one side going to the start relay on the passenger's side and the other going to the ignition module on the driver's side.

Yesterday I couldn't find either of those connectors. Which is strange because C128 is said to be an 18-pin connector, so should be pretty obvious. But if I get to the shop today I'm going to go over it very closely and trace the circuit. Somewhere there's a disconnect in it and I'm going to find it.

Then, I may do some "simplification", but not 'til I figure out what is going on.

For reference, here's where the EVTM's show the connectors"

C128 is the one I remember on Darth, it has both halves of the starter circuit (32) and both halves of the reverse lamps, the transfer case switches (4WD and Lo), possibly a portion of the "fasten seat belts" circuit. Probably some other things too.

[Gary Lewis]

C128 is the one I remember on Darth, it has both halves of the starter circuit (32) and both halves of the reverse lamps, the transfer case switches (4WD and Lo), possibly a portion of the "fasten seat belts" circuit. Probably some other things too.

Bill - You triggered a thought and perhaps identified the connector.

I wondered how many times and where C128 is mentioned in the '85 EVTM. Then I remembered that I have a copy of that EVTM in PDF and it has been OCR'd. So I opened it up and searched. It is shown in both the start circuit awa the backup light circuit, but nowhere else in circuits.

But then why is it an 18-pin connector? The key was that while on Page 32 it is said to have 18 pins, which is what I was looking for last night, on Page 82 it is said to have 4 pins. And I know where that connector is, I just didn't pay any attention yesterday as it couldn't be the one as it wasn't big enough.

Page 32 on the left and Page 82 on the right:

[85lebaront2]

Bill - You triggered a thought and perhaps identified the connector.

I wondered how many times and where C128 is mentioned in the '85 EVTM. Then I remembered that I have a copy of that EVTM in PDF and it has been OCR'd. So I opened it up and searched. It is shown in both the start circuit awa the backup light circuit, but nowhere else in circuits.

But then why is it an 18-pin connector? The key was that while on Page 32 it is said to have 18 pins, which is what I was looking for last night, on Page 82 it is said to have 4 pins. And I know where that connector is, I just didn't pay any attention yesterday as it couldn't be the one as it wasn't big enough.

Page 32 on the left and Page 82 on the right:

4 pins makes sense, start and reverse lamps.