Big Blue's Transformation

[Gary Lewis]

Glad to hear the hose arrangement worked out the 'right' way

You may already have a tee but Dorman 47415 works well for this.

That's a cool tee! But it appears to take the 1/8" OD hard line. Not sure I have any that isn't brittle, but I do have 1/8" ID vacuum hose, so am going with regular brass tees, as shown on the left, with the Dorman on the right.

I'll use those pics and part numbers in what I write up. Thanks!

[kramttocs]

That's a cool tee! But it appears to take the 1/8" OD hard line. Not sure I have any that isn't brittle, but I do have 1/8" ID vacuum hose, so am going with regular brass tees, as shown on the left, with the Dorman on the right.

I'll use those pics and part numbers in what I write up. Thanks!

Ah, I should have paid more attention to the hose you are using. I am using the factory hose and yes, it was very tough finding some extra that wasn't brittle!

[Gary Lewis]

Ah, I should have paid more attention to the hose you are using. I am using the factory hose and yes, it was very tough finding some extra that wasn't brittle!

I looked my stash over today and found that I have two complete sets of supple HVAC vacuum lines. And it will take both sets for Dad's truck since I want to have the third hose going from the control head I modified to control the shutoff valve. That way I'll have the heater shut off in both Vent and in Max A/C.

Unfortunately I didn't think about that when I ran the vacuum lines on the '90 HVAC system I installed in Big Blue. There was plenty of room to run the 3rd line and I could have modified another early control head to replace this one. But I didn't think about it so now I'm going the easy way and just using the Recirc vacuum to control the valve.

But, I guess with the kick panel vents I still have cool air available.

[Gary Lewis]

I looked my stash over today and found that I have two complete sets of supple HVAC vacuum lines. And it will take both sets for Dad's truck since I want to have the third hose going from the control head I modified to control the shutoff valve. That way I'll have the heater shut off in both Vent and in Max A/C.

Unfortunately I didn't think about that when I ran the vacuum lines on the '90 HVAC system I installed in Big Blue. There was plenty of room to run the 3rd line and I could have modified another early control head to replace this one. But I didn't think about it so now I'm going the easy way and just using the Recirc vacuum to control the valve.

But, I guess with the kick panel vents I still have cool air available.

Two steps forward and one back is still progress, right?

The short story is that the old hose that I used is larger in the middle than 3/8" and blew off the fitting on the test run. So I have to buy new hose and replace the old stuff.

The long story begins with the re-bending of the copper tubing. I reused the tubing that came with the compressor and got it shaped pretty much how I wanted it, but then discovered that the new fitting wouldn't fit. Nor would other 3/8" compression fittings.

Turns out that the old tubing measures .395" OD instead of .375". And that's just enough so it won't go into the 3/8" fitting nor will a 3/8" ferrule fit over it. After calling around I found some new copper tubing and bought 2' of it as well as a new 3/8" NPT/90/3/8" compression fitting. When I got the old compression fitting out of the head of the compressor I discovered that it has metric threads on it. So I reused it and hope that the .020" difference won't cause problems with the copper tubing and new ferrule.

Here's a shot of the new copper tubing in place:

Then I plumbed everything else up, put the covers on the compressor (not easily done), and took a pic:

Next I pulled the tank and put the new fittings in it, put it back under the truck, and connected up the hoses. That's when I discovered that the hoses are somehow larger than 3/8" in the middle where I cut them from, and are a very loose fit on the barbs. Anyway, here's the pic:

But I tightened the FI hose clamps down tightly, turned the inverter on, and then the compressor on. I kind of expected something to blow and sure enough, when we hit 150 psi the input hose to the tank blew off the tank. So it is time for new hose. I'm hoping I can use a connector between the old and new hose and use the old hose to pull the new hose into place.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Two steps forward and one back is still progress, right?

The short story is that the old hose that I used is larger in the middle than 3/8" and blew off the fitting on the test run. So I have to buy new hose and replace the old stuff.

The long story begins with the re-bending of the copper tubing. I reused the tubing that came with the compressor and got it shaped pretty much how I wanted it, but then discovered that the new fitting wouldn't fit. Nor would other 3/8" compression fittings.

Turns out that the old tubing measures .395" OD instead of .375". And that's just enough so it won't go into the 3/8" fitting nor will a 3/8" ferrule fit over it. After calling around I found some new copper tubing and bought 2' of it as well as a new 3/8" NPT/90/3/8" compression fitting. When I got the old compression fitting out of the head of the compressor I discovered that it has metric threads on it. So I reused it and hope that the .020" difference won't cause problems with the copper tubing and new ferrule.

Here's a shot of the new copper tubing in place:

Then I plumbed everything else up, put the covers on the compressor (not easily done), and took a pic:

Next I pulled the tank and put the new fittings in it, put it back under the truck, and connected up the hoses. That's when I discovered that the hoses are somehow larger than 3/8" in the middle where I cut them from, and are a very loose fit on the barbs. Anyway, here's the pic:

But I tightened the FI hose clamps down tightly, turned the inverter on, and then the compressor on. I kind of expected something to blow and sure enough, when we hit 150 psi the input hose to the tank blew off the tank. So it is time for new hose. I'm hoping I can use a connector between the old and new hose and use the old hose to pull the new hose into place.

10mm is 0.394"

And since this compressor is made in China it probably has 10mm threads on the fitting too.

You can get 10mm olives (or whatever you want to call that ferrule)

I think you'd be better off with an Ottiker clamp on that hose going to the tank.

At least you'd be sure it isn't going to come loose.

Many years ago I'd have to have adapters made for when people would import grey market European faucets and bath fittings.

Thankfully grohe, franke and other companies retooled for the American market when they decided to sell direct.

The metric act was adopted by Congress in 1866 and the metric conversion act of 1975 still didn't determine a date for full adoption.

Ultimately, this nation is going to have to get with the program.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Two steps forward and one back is still progress, right?

The short story is that the old hose that I used is larger in the middle than 3/8" and blew off the fitting on the test run. So I have to buy new hose and replace the old stuff.

The long story begins with the re-bending of the copper tubing. I reused the tubing that came with the compressor and got it shaped pretty much how I wanted it, but then discovered that the new fitting wouldn't fit. Nor would other 3/8" compression fittings.

Turns out that the old tubing measures .395" OD instead of .375". And that's just enough so it won't go into the 3/8" fitting nor will a 3/8" ferrule fit over it. After calling around I found some new copper tubing and bought 2' of it as well as a new 3/8" NPT/90/3/8" compression fitting. When I got the old compression fitting out of the head of the compressor I discovered that it has metric threads on it. So I reused it and hope that the .020" difference won't cause problems with the copper tubing and new ferrule.

Here's a shot of the new copper tubing in place:

Then I plumbed everything else up, put the covers on the compressor (not easily done), and took a pic:

Next I pulled the tank and put the new fittings in it, put it back under the truck, and connected up the hoses. That's when I discovered that the hoses are somehow larger than 3/8" in the middle where I cut them from, and are a very loose fit on the barbs. Anyway, here's the pic:

But I tightened the FI hose clamps down tightly, turned the inverter on, and then the compressor on. I kind of expected something to blow and sure enough, when we hit 150 psi the input hose to the tank blew off the tank. So it is time for new hose. I'm hoping I can use a connector between the old and new hose and use the old hose to pull the new hose into place.

Horrid Fate is really good about parts, and their shipping is incredibly cheap.

If you need an olive or even the whole fitting you just need to look up the model and item number, then give them a call.

https://www.harborfreight.com/parts

[Gary Lewis]

Horrid Fate is really good about parts, and their shipping is incredibly cheap.

If you need an olive or even the whole fitting you just need to look up the model and item number, then give them a call.

https://www.harborfreight.com/parts

Jim - You are probably right, the copper tubing and the fitting in the compressor are likely 10mm. But I think the 3/8" ferrule is going to hold in the 10mm fitting. It looked to be a good fit when I checked it and tightened up nicely. So I want to give it a chance, meaning I need to get the hose fittings to hold so I can see if I have any other leaks.

Which leads me to the hose. For whatever reason this old HF hose was a good fit on the hose barbs at one spot in its run, but where I cut into it for the connections to the tank it was way too large. Almost like it was 3/8" hose on 1/4" fittings, but not quite that bad. I'm guessing that is because it has been used and abused a bunch, and probably has been driven over several times.

So I ordered a Flexzilla Pro Air Hose, 3/8 in. x 50 ft. It has the field-repairable ends you guys recommended previously, so I'll use a section of it to replace the old HF hose and put that end back on. Should be a good hose to have in the truck given the light weight and ability to coil nicely.

Which leads me to the clamps. I sure hope the EFI clamps will do the trick. I have 6 barbed connections, one on each end of the runs from: cooler to tank; tank to manifold; manifold to high pressure switch. I have new stainless EFI clamps for each of those connections.

But are these the kind of clamps you were talking about: Oetiker Zinc-Plated Steel Hose Clamp, Double Ear. (That's not the size, but I'm just trying to make sure I know what you are talking about.) That's actually the type of clamp that HF had on the manifold to high pressure switch hose, so apparently will hold at that pressure. It would be a shame to have to go to that 'cause they aren't "field repairable". But are they better for high pressure?

[ArdWrknTrk]

Jim - You are probably right, the copper tubing and the fitting in the compressor are likely 10mm. But I think the 3/8" ferrule is going to hold in the 10mm fitting. It looked to be a good fit when I checked it and tightened up nicely. So I want to give it a chance, meaning I need to get the hose fittings to hold so I can see if I have any other leaks.

Which leads me to the hose. For whatever reason this old HF hose was a good fit on the hose barbs at one spot in its run, but where I cut into it for the connections to the tank it was way too large. Almost like it was 3/8" hose on 1/4" fittings, but not quite that bad. I'm guessing that is because it has been used and abused a bunch, and probably has been driven over several times.

So I ordered a Flexzilla Pro Air Hose, 3/8 in. x 50 ft. It has the field-repairable ends you guys recommended previously, so I'll use a section of it to replace the old HF hose and put that end back on. Should be a good hose to have in the truck given the light weight and ability to coil nicely.

Which leads me to the clamps. I sure hope the EFI clamps will do the trick. I have 6 barbed connections, one on each end of the runs from: cooler to tank; tank to manifold; manifold to high pressure switch. I have new stainless EFI clamps for each of those connections.

But are these the kind of clamps you were talking about: Oetiker Zinc-Plated Steel Hose Clamp, Double Ear. (That's not the size, but I'm just trying to make sure I know what you are talking about.) That's actually the type of clamp that HF had on the manifold to high pressure switch hose, so apparently will hold at that pressure. It would be a shame to have to go to that 'cause they aren't "field repairable". But are they better for high pressure?

I'm thinking more like the single ear style.

I pointed a John toward a Vigrue set on Amazon for about $20 IIRC.

I'm of no mind for "field repairable"

If you tear that hose loose on the trail you're going to need a new bed, not a new hose clamp.

[Gary Lewis]

I'm thinking more like the single ear style.

I pointed a John toward a Vigrue set on Amazon for about $20 IIRC.

I'm of no mind for "field repairable"

If you tear that hose loose on the trail you're going to need a new bed, not a new hose clamp.

You are right, those hoses aren't going to be torn loose without a major catastrophe. So I'm not worried about that. More from the possibility of a leak.

I want to try the EFI clamps that I have before changing. But if it takes the other style clamp then I'll do it.

[Gary Lewis]

You are right, those hoses aren't going to be torn loose without a major catastrophe. So I'm not worried about that. More from the possibility of a leak.

I want to try the EFI clamps that I have before changing. But if it takes the other style clamp then I'll do it.

While waiting on the new Flexzilla hose to come in I received the new Four Seasons 74612 heater control valve from Amazon. This is the correct one as it is normally open and closes with vacuum.

It took me maybe 30 minutes to install it as I already had a shut off valve there. But here 'tis with a view from the front. I used a 3/16" x 3 tee and 3/16" vacuum line. The factory fitting that normally goes on the recirculate vacuum motor goes onto the tee perfectly and the vacuum lines then run out to the recirc motor and the shut off valve.

And here's a shot before I put the wiring back down in place, and then a shot with the wiring: