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Big Blue's Transformation


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Sweet!

Thanks, Dane!

Well, now that Big Blue is nearing "completion", at least for this phase of his transformation, the trips are starting to be scheduled. I just started two new threads about upcoming trips:

I'll keep the planning and all for those trips out of this thread, but do want to detail some of the things I do to the truck 'twixt now and then that will be common to all the trips.

For instance, I really need to spend some time fixing the rattles. I think there are two major sources - the stuff in the storage unit and the coax to the GMRS antenna. So I'm going to cut some of the left over Noico self-adhesive foam insulation and pad the storage unit with it and see if that doesn't help with the rattles. And removing the GMRS antenna should solve the problem of the coax slapping the roof on bumps.

Plus I need to do something to let me put the mike for the GMRS radio in place w/o it hanging down in the way. And then there's more set-up to do with the Sony radio as the speakers near the ears are giving way too many highs.

And, I'm sure there will be other things that come up along the way. But, we are getting there!

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Thanks, Dane!

Well, now that Big Blue is nearing "completion", at least for this phase of his transformation, the trips are starting to be scheduled. I just started two new threads about upcoming trips:

I'll keep the planning and all for those trips out of this thread, but do want to detail some of the things I do to the truck 'twixt now and then that will be common to all the trips.

For instance, I really need to spend some time fixing the rattles. I think there are two major sources - the stuff in the storage unit and the coax to the GMRS antenna. So I'm going to cut some of the left over Noico self-adhesive foam insulation and pad the storage unit with it and see if that doesn't help with the rattles. And removing the GMRS antenna should solve the problem of the coax slapping the roof on bumps.

Plus I need to do something to let me put the mike for the GMRS radio in place w/o it hanging down in the way. And then there's more set-up to do with the Sony radio as the speakers near the ears are giving way too many highs.

And, I'm sure there will be other things that come up along the way. But, we are getting there!

The other day I didn't think the starter cranked as fast as it should have after the truck sat for a few days, so today I pulled the positive battery cable and checked for dark current draw. What I found was interesting in that several things in the truck apparently wake up when you turn the power back on, and it takes a while for them to settle into their steady state draw. But when they did the draw was .131A.

That's more than I think it should be, so I started checking fuse by fuse, and I've not found it. Here's what I've found:

Fuse 8: Courtesy Lights = .003A

Fuse 10: Bed Cover = .003A

Fuse 11: Sony Radio = .000A

Fuse 12: Lock Relays = .018A

Fuse 13: Security Sys = .000A

That's only .024A and is pretty much what I expected. So I think I'm going to have to pull all the fuses and measure the dark current. Then I can add things back and see what happens.

Thoughts?

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The other day I didn't think the starter cranked as fast as it should have after the truck sat for a few days, so today I pulled the positive battery cable and checked for dark current draw. What I found was interesting in that several things in the truck apparently wake up when you turn the power back on, and it takes a while for them to settle into their steady state draw. But when they did the draw was .131A.

That's more than I think it should be, so I started checking fuse by fuse, and I've not found it. Here's what I've found:

Fuse 8: Courtesy Lights = .003A

Fuse 10: Bed Cover = .003A

Fuse 11: Sony Radio = .000A

Fuse 12: Lock Relays = .018A

Fuse 13: Security Sys = .000A

That's only .024A and is pretty much what I expected. So I think I'm going to have to pull all the fuses and measure the dark current. Then I can add things back and see what happens.

Thoughts?

Did you disconnect the alternator???

The only thing between a dead short and the battery is the diode board.

There is always some power lost there.

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Did you disconnect the alternator???

The only thing between a dead short and the battery is the diode board.

There is always some power lost there.

No, I didn't. Good point. I'll check that out before I start pulling fuses. Or, actually, before I pull fuses in the cab. I will pull the maxifuse to the alternator.

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The other day I didn't think the starter cranked as fast as it should have after the truck sat for a few days, so today I pulled the positive battery cable and checked for dark current draw. What I found was interesting in that several things in the truck apparently wake up when you turn the power back on, and it takes a while for them to settle into their steady state draw. But when they did the draw was .131A.

That's more than I think it should be, so I started checking fuse by fuse, and I've not found it. Here's what I've found:

Fuse 8: Courtesy Lights = .003A

Fuse 10: Bed Cover = .003A

Fuse 11: Sony Radio = .000A

Fuse 12: Lock Relays = .018A

Fuse 13: Security Sys = .000A

That's only .024A and is pretty much what I expected. So I think I'm going to have to pull all the fuses and measure the dark current. Then I can add things back and see what happens.

Thoughts?

Curious as to how this plays out. Got my new alternator in and installed today. It is charging at 14.6 volts. My converted voltmeter is reading high again, which I'm convinced is calibration. I attempted to check for parasitic draw but my meter appears to have taken a dump. Voltage and resistance works, but no amperage.

Curious, why did you pull the positive cable to check this and not the negative? I pulled the neg. Does it matter?

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The other day I didn't think the starter cranked as fast as it should have after the truck sat for a few days, so today I pulled the positive battery cable and checked for dark current draw. What I found was interesting in that several things in the truck apparently wake up when you turn the power back on, and it takes a while for them to settle into their steady state draw. But when they did the draw was .131A.

That's more than I think it should be, so I started checking fuse by fuse, and I've not found it. Here's what I've found:

Fuse 8: Courtesy Lights = .003A

Fuse 10: Bed Cover = .003A

Fuse 11: Sony Radio = .000A

Fuse 12: Lock Relays = .018A

Fuse 13: Security Sys = .000A

That's only .024A and is pretty much what I expected. So I think I'm going to have to pull all the fuses and measure the dark current. Then I can add things back and see what happens.

Thoughts?

Curious as to how this plays out. Got my new alternator in and installed today. It is charging at 14.6 volts. My converted voltmeter is reading high again, which I'm convinced is calibration. I attempted to check for parasitic draw but my meter appears to have taken a dump. Voltage and resistance works, but no amperage.

Curious, why did you pull the positive cable to check this and not the negative? I pulled the neg. Does it matter?

Technically it doesn't matter which you pull. But in my case I have several grounds on the negative terminal but only one on the positive post, so it is easier to pull the positive rather than the negative.

On your converted voltmeter, I'm thinking that the best we can do is to note what they show at given voltages and go with that. In my case 12.8 is dead center and the high mark is 14.0. So that probably means the low mark is 11.6 if the thing is linear.

What is your gauge showing at 14.6? Mine would show essentially pegged. (I say "would" 'cause apparently my regulator is holding the alternator's output at 13.9v. That's what my DVM said when I tested it earlier, that's what my aftermarket voltmeter says the aux battery is running at, and that's what my Sony radio says it is seeing.)

On your DVM, mine has a fuse for the current portion of it in the battery compartment. I thought today that mine was blown 'cause I couldn't get the thing to work, but then I realized it was me. I'd not moved the leads to the appropriate taps to show current. Once I did that it worked perfectly. :nabble_smiley_blush:

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Technically it doesn't matter which you pull. But in my case I have several grounds on the negative terminal but only one on the positive post, so it is easier to pull the positive rather than the negative.

On your converted voltmeter, I'm thinking that the best we can do is to note what they show at given voltages and go with that. In my case 12.8 is dead center and the high mark is 14.0. So that probably means the low mark is 11.6 if the thing is linear.

What is your gauge showing at 14.6? Mine would show essentially pegged. (I say "would" 'cause apparently my regulator is holding the alternator's output at 13.9v. That's what my DVM said when I tested it earlier, that's what my aftermarket voltmeter says the aux battery is running at, and that's what my Sony radio says it is seeing.)

On your DVM, mine has a fuse for the current portion of it in the battery compartment. I thought today that mine was blown 'cause I couldn't get the thing to work, but then I realized it was me. I'd not moved the leads to the appropriate taps to show current. Once I did that it worked perfectly. :nabble_smiley_blush:

Pulled the alternator lead off the Megafuse and the dark current stayed at 130 ma, so it isn't the alternator. And while that's about 100 ma higher than I expected, I guess for now I'm not going to worry about it.

So I moved on to the storage unit. I pulled everything out and put the self-adhesive Noico foam insulation on the backs, fronts, and bottoms of each compartment. Hopefully that will quieten things down a bit 'cause we had quite a few things making noise on the last trip.

Speaking of that, my nephew said there are isolators for the SuperDuty springs to keep them from slapping together. Anyone know of them?

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Pulled the alternator lead off the Megafuse and the dark current stayed at 130 ma, so it isn't the alternator. And while that's about 100 ma higher than I expected, I guess for now I'm not going to worry about it.

So I moved on to the storage unit. I pulled everything out and put the self-adhesive Noico foam insulation on the backs, fronts, and bottoms of each compartment. Hopefully that will quieten things down a bit 'cause we had quite a few things making noise on the last trip.

Speaking of that, my nephew said there are isolators for the SuperDuty springs to keep them from slapping together. Anyone know of them?

Well it was a place to start.... 🙄

If it's not a concern for you, it's not a concern.

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Well it was a place to start.... 🙄If it's not a concern for you, it's not a concern.
Yes, it was a good place to start. And I'm not sure I'd have thought of it, so thanks again.

 

But I said "I guess for now I'm not going to worry about it." That means I might worry about it later. But right now I want to get a number of little things done for the GOAT trip. And then it'll be time to install the compressor and tank. Then the bed lighting and outlets. Then it'll be time for the Colorado trip. Then the show. And another trip we are planning. And then EFI.

 

So, maybe I'll never worry about it? :nabble_thinking-26_orig:
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