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Big Blue's Transformation


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As a data point, I'm just saying that my cube relay is entirely functional.

Yep, I understood that, Jim. But we are running different starters. I have the Powermaster unit, so emailed them to see how much current it takes to pull their relay/solenoid in.

As for what I did today, I got the power wired up for the security system. Actually I added two wires. Was going to use the "tap" that Scott sent me but realized that it is for the power windows and those aren't hot at all times, which is what I need for a security system. But I had the harness from a truck with power windows and locks which had both the windows and locks taps, and installed those. (So I'll return yours, Scott. Thanks again.)

So now I have the always-hot power for the security system and switched power, which I think I'll use for the USB charger in the ash tray. (It was installed quite some time ago but hasn't been connected since I didn't want to have a continuous draw from its LEDs.)

And I got a start on the mount for the security system. The plan is to attach a 5 x 8" piece of aluminum to the HVAC duct with double-stick tape, which will go right below the center speaker mount. I'll then screw the Code Alarm module to it, which means I can take it out later if I need to do so. And, it'll get it up enough that the stubby antenna can be up next to the dash cover and not completely masked by the grounded metal of the speaker mount.

Then I need to run 4 more wires through the firewall for the siren, hood and tool box pin switches, and the control wires for the bed cover. Put the lock motor in the passenger's door. And connect up several wires in the cab like the dome light circuit, parking lights, horn, and valet switch.

But I think I'm going to get there - one of these days! :nabble_smiley_wink:

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Yep, I understood that, Jim. But we are running different starters. I have the Powermaster unit, so emailed them to see how much current it takes to pull their relay/solenoid in.

As for what I did today, I got the power wired up for the security system. Actually I added two wires. Was going to use the "tap" that Scott sent me but realized that it is for the power windows and those aren't hot at all times, which is what I need for a security system. But I had the harness from a truck with power windows and locks which had both the windows and locks taps, and installed those. (So I'll return yours, Scott. Thanks again.)

So now I have the always-hot power for the security system and switched power, which I think I'll use for the USB charger in the ash tray. (It was installed quite some time ago but hasn't been connected since I didn't want to have a continuous draw from its LEDs.)

And I got a start on the mount for the security system. The plan is to attach a 5 x 8" piece of aluminum to the HVAC duct with double-stick tape, which will go right below the center speaker mount. I'll then screw the Code Alarm module to it, which means I can take it out later if I need to do so. And, it'll get it up enough that the stubby antenna can be up next to the dash cover and not completely masked by the grounded metal of the speaker mount.

Then I need to run 4 more wires through the firewall for the siren, hood and tool box pin switches, and the control wires for the bed cover. Put the lock motor in the passenger's door. And connect up several wires in the cab like the dome light circuit, parking lights, horn, and valet switch.

But I think I'm going to get there - one of these days! :nabble_smiley_wink:

You know, if you ever get done with this one you can move on to the 'French' truck..... or the Bee.

It's not like you don't have more in the wings to feed your addiction... :nabble_smiley_evil:

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You know, if you ever get done with this one you can move on to the 'French' truck..... or the Bee.

It's not like you don't have more in the wings to feed your addiction... :nabble_smiley_evil:

How 'bout Dad's truck? :nabble_smiley_wink:

This one has to be done for the trip to Colorado in about July. 'Tween now and then the security system installation needs to be finished, the bed gets lined and the bed cover installed, and the compressed air system installed. Then the A/C system needs charged and some minor things done, like the hangars for the mike cord painted and installed.

But, Janey and I have other trips planned. For instance, we intend to make the whole of the ~490 miles of the Greencountry Offroad Adventure Trail - GOAT. That's in northeast OK, and will take about 3 days. We'll spend 2 or 3 nights in hotels, probably 1 night in Tahlequah where we met at school, and 2 nights in Grove, where she lived and we were married. In fact, the "trail" goes in front of the church building where we were married, in front of the house where she was living then, and in front of the cemetery where her parents are buried. In other words, this will be a trip back in time for us.

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How 'bout Dad's truck? :nabble_smiley_wink:

This one has to be done for the trip to Colorado in about July. 'Tween now and then the security system installation needs to be finished, the bed gets lined and the bed cover installed, and the compressed air system installed. Then the A/C system needs charged and some minor things done, like the hangars for the mike cord painted and installed.

But, Janey and I have other trips planned. For instance, we intend to make the whole of the ~490 miles of the Greencountry Offroad Adventure Trail - GOAT. That's in northeast OK, and will take about 3 days. We'll spend 2 or 3 nights in hotels, probably 1 night in Tahlequah where we met at school, and 2 nights in Grove, where she lived and we were married. In fact, the "trail" goes in front of the church building where we were married, in front of the house where she was living then, and in front of the cemetery where her parents are buried. In other words, this will be a trip back in time for us.

Hey Gary,

Sorry to point ya to "that other forum," but I came across a thread you seriously might be interested in, at least from an idea standpoint. I say this because of your recent discussion about coming out here to CO again, this guy is going to dang near the North Pole! :nabble_smiley_cool:

4gary.png.627e936ecbd79f184223f6f3da091cf8.png

Check this out:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1654820-1994-bronco-overland-expedition-to-the-arctic-ocean.html#post19769543

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Hey Gary,

Sorry to point ya to "that other forum," but I came across a thread you seriously might be interested in, at least from an idea standpoint. I say this because of your recent discussion about coming out here to CO again, this guy is going to dang near the North Pole! :nabble_smiley_cool:

Check this out:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1654820-1994-bronco-overland-expedition-to-the-arctic-ocean.html#post19769543

Thanks, Chris. I've now read that thread and will go watch the videos. That is REALLY quite an adventure!

JJF20 is right, people are going away from CB and even ham. I assume the VHF he recommends is GMRS, which is what I have. And the other suggestions are good as well.

Hope he gets it together and puts some miles on before leaving. I'm finding teething problems with Big Blue as I shake him down, literally.

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Thanks, Chris. I've now read that thread and will go watch the videos. That is REALLY quite an adventure!

JJF20 is right, people are going away from CB and even ham. I assume the VHF he recommends is GMRS, which is what I have. And the other suggestions are good as well.

Hope he gets it together and puts some miles on before leaving. I'm finding teething problems with Big Blue as I shake him down, literally.

Showed Janey the pics on that thread, Chris, and she wants to go. But they we talked about bears and tent camping and she started looking for hotels along the way. And finding none she's cooling off a bit. :nabble_smiley_wink:

Just talked to Ed at Powermaster about the starter, and he said I should NOT use a Bosch relay. Use the fender-mounted relay to pull in their relay/solenoid. Guess I'll change. :nabble_smiley_cry:

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Showed Janey the pics on that thread, Chris, and she wants to go. But they we talked about bears and tent camping and she started looking for hotels along the way. And finding none she's cooling off a bit. :nabble_smiley_wink:

Just talked to Ed at Powermaster about the starter, and he said I should NOT use a Bosch relay. Use the fender-mounted relay to pull in their relay/solenoid. Guess I'll change. :nabble_smiley_cry:

Gary, I must have missed the portion on why you are using a Powermaster starter. What is wrong with the late factory PMGR? Solenoid too close to the headers? BTW, the Powermaster looks like it is derived from a late Mopar one.

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Gary, I must have missed the portion on why you are using a Powermaster starter. What is wrong with the late factory PMGR? Solenoid too close to the headers? BTW, the Powermaster looks like it is derived from a late Mopar one.

BB came with a Powermaster starter and alternator. The alternator was bad from the start but someone had left the 1G harness and regulator in place so I fixed that quickly. Then I contacted Powermaster for parts and they said I'd have to send it in, that they don't sell parts. So I was done with their alternators then and there.

But the starter works, so while it does I'll use it. Then go with a later model PMGR as I think it'll fit fine.

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BB came with a Powermaster starter and alternator. The alternator was bad from the start but someone had left the 1G harness and regulator in place so I fixed that quickly. Then I contacted Powermaster for parts and they said I'd have to send it in, that they don't sell parts. So I was done with their alternators then and there.

But the starter works, so while it does I'll use it. Then go with a later model PMGR as I think it'll fit fine.

There's a question below for y'all. http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/uploads/6/5/8/7/65879365/waving_orig.gif

I got the security system mounted today. I cut a sheet of aluminum to fit, put a couple of screw holes in it, and then stuck it on the HVAC duct with Gorilla double-stick tape.

In the pic below you can see a white spot on the back side of the module, and that's the connector for the LED. I put the LED in the front/center hole of the speaker grille of the dash cover after determining that it is possible to connect the LEDs wires to the module with the cover laying in place. You get it in about the right position, tilt the back of the cover up, and there's just enough room to plug it in.

And right by the white connector is the little bitty antenna wire. It'll be standing mostly up when I put the dash cover on and as I lower the cover it is supposed to bend forward but stay up against the cover. The idea is to have it above the rusty speaker bracket so it isn't shielded by it.

In addition, I got the valet switch installed, and that's its wire is laying on the speaker bracket on the left.

Now for the question: See all those fuse holders? There are 4:

  • 15A: Door Lock

  • 15A: Door Unlock

  • 15A: Light Flash

  • 10A: Security Module

I don't like having them hidden, so I'm thinking I'll cut them off and just use a 15A fuse in the fuse block for the circuit that powers them. Granted that's more than the module itself needs, but the wire to it is more than rated for 15A. And you can't be locking and unlocking at the same time. Plus the lights should never be flashing when the doors are being locked or unlocked.

Thoughts?

Security_System_Screwed_Down_-_A_Few_Wires_Showing.thumb.jpg.654b4ac0d06a2f5b3564989fa8e1e99e.jpg

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There's a question below for y'all. http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/uploads/6/5/8/7/65879365/waving_orig.gif

I got the security system mounted today. I cut a sheet of aluminum to fit, put a couple of screw holes in it, and then stuck it on the HVAC duct with Gorilla double-stick tape.

In the pic below you can see a white spot on the back side of the module, and that's the connector for the LED. I put the LED in the front/center hole of the speaker grille of the dash cover after determining that it is possible to connect the LEDs wires to the module with the cover laying in place. You get it in about the right position, tilt the back of the cover up, and there's just enough room to plug it in.

And right by the white connector is the little bitty antenna wire. It'll be standing mostly up when I put the dash cover on and as I lower the cover it is supposed to bend forward but stay up against the cover. The idea is to have it above the rusty speaker bracket so it isn't shielded by it.

In addition, I got the valet switch installed, and that's its wire is laying on the speaker bracket on the left.

Now for the question: See all those fuse holders? There are 4:

  • 15A: Door Lock

  • 15A: Door Unlock

  • 15A: Light Flash

  • 10A: Security Module

I don't like having them hidden, so I'm thinking I'll cut them off and just use a 15A fuse in the fuse block for the circuit that powers them. Granted that's more than the module itself needs, but the wire to it is more than rated for 15A. And you can't be locking and unlocking at the same time. Plus the lights should never be flashing when the doors are being locked or unlocked.

Thoughts?

Gary, not knowing how that particular system is set up, I would be inclined to keep the fuses where they use them, definitely relocate them for access. I would personally get a 4 fuse block and mount it where it can be reached easily but isn't in the way. An FYI, my Taurus had a drop down fuse block, it sat horizontally on the left side of the steering column, and could be unlatched and swung down vertically to change or check fuses.

Here is where I had my Design Tech security system/remote start and lock/unlock including trunk and Sirius receiver:

P1200066.thumb.jpg.279edee832345dcfd73d0a2f84ca69d2.jpg

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