Big Blue's Transformation

[kramttocs]

Apparently I should have purchased the same ones.

About that... now I feel like a heel. You saying that yours didn't have any 'snap', triggered a memory that I am embarrassed to say was already forgotten.

Turns out one of mine was the same way so I swapped boots and used a jy one as well.

http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/The-Camano-Experience-tp35327p63488.html

So both of us are rocking pricey boots. Really sorry about that.

I am going to go update my post in the other thread where I linked to these showing 3 out of 4 not working.

 

[Gary Lewis]

Apparently I should have purchased the same ones.

About that... now I feel like a heel. You saying that yours didn't have any 'snap', triggered a memory that I am embarrassed to say was already forgotten.

Turns out one of mine was the same way so I swapped boots and used a jy one as well.

http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/The-Camano-Experience-tp35327p63488.html

So both of us are rocking pricey boots. Really sorry about that.

I am going to go update my post in the other thread where I linked to these showing 3 out of 4 not working.

Scott - No problem! You got lucky that one of yours worked.

Seriously, I'm not worried. I should have saved the $15 and ordered the same as you, then my boots would have been less expensive. But I'm confident that the Ford units will work, and have absolutely NO confidence in the ones from China.

[85lebaront2]

Scott - No problem! You got lucky that one of yours worked.

Seriously, I'm not worried. I should have saved the $15 and ordered the same as you, then my boots would have been less expensive. But I'm confident that the Ford units will work, and have absolutely NO confidence in the ones from China.

Gary, now you know why I am cautious about ordering auto parts from Amazon. Unless I can verify it is a reputable source and not contaminated with Wuhan Flu, I will pay the extra for OEM or, visit my favorite parts source, Pete's Used Parts in Newport News VA.

[Gary Lewis]

Gary, now you know why I am cautious about ordering auto parts from Amazon. Unless I can verify it is a reputable source and not contaminated with Wuhan Flu, I will pay the extra for OEM or, visit my favorite parts source, Pete's Used Parts in Newport News VA.

Yep, there are times when you have to bite the bullet and get good stuff. I probably should have in this case, but in actuality I'm coming out pretty well since the Ford lock motors I have work well but just needed some protection from the elements.

So, with a good cleanup and lubrication, plus the boots and grommets, I think we are good to go. And the overall cost was less than new motors. But it is frustrating to get absolute JUNK!

[Gary Lewis]

Yep, there are times when you have to bite the bullet and get good stuff. I probably should have in this case, but in actuality I'm coming out pretty well since the Ford lock motors I have work well but just needed some protection from the elements.

So, with a good cleanup and lubrication, plus the boots and grommets, I think we are good to go. And the overall cost was less than new motors. But it is frustrating to get absolute JUNK!

Don't have a lot to report for today. Did a few other things besides working on Big Blue, but I did get the driver's side lock motor installed, the wiring run from it to the location where the security system will be, and everything put back together on the driver's side. And there were lots of things that were apart, including the door panel, map pocket, moisture barrier, and kick panel vent.

While I'm on the driver's side I still need to run power from the fuse box for the security system. And a new ground as they are adamant that you should not use a ground that anything else is using.

[Gary Lewis]

Don't have a lot to report for today. Did a few other things besides working on Big Blue, but I did get the driver's side lock motor installed, the wiring run from it to the location where the security system will be, and everything put back together on the driver's side. And there were lots of things that were apart, including the door panel, map pocket, moisture barrier, and kick panel vent.

While I'm on the driver's side I still need to run power from the fuse box for the security system. And a new ground as they are adamant that you should not use a ground that anything else is using.

Question for y'all. I've been having a "clunk" or a "clang" as I start Big Blue from time to time. It kinda sounds like something hitting the fan, but it is a bit more solid than that. Doesn't happen often, but when it does it gets my attention. And I wake up at night thinking about it.

I'm wondering if the little Ford relay I'm using as the starter relay is making and then breaking and then making contact, causing the starter to engage, dis-engage, and re-engage. It seems like that would account for the sound.

It doesn't happen often enough that if I replaced the relay I'd know that was it - at least for a while. But I carry two spares in the glove box so I could and see if that makes a difference.

Or, I've been thinking about installing one of the big fender-style relays somewhere out of the way and being done with the worry about it. Either replace the little Ford relay completely or use the little Ford relay to pull in the larger relay/solenoid.

Thoughts? Suggestions? Other ideas on what is happening?

 

[kramttocs]

Question for y'all. I've been having a "clunk" or a "clang" as I start Big Blue from time to time. It kinda sounds like something hitting the fan, but it is a bit more solid than that. Doesn't happen often, but when it does it gets my attention. And I wake up at night thinking about it.

I'm wondering if the little Ford relay I'm using as the starter relay is making and then breaking and then making contact, causing the starter to engage, dis-engage, and re-engage. It seems like that would account for the sound.

It doesn't happen often enough that if I replaced the relay I'd know that was it - at least for a while. But I carry two spares in the glove box so I could and see if that makes a difference.

Or, I've been thinking about installing one of the big fender-style relays somewhere out of the way and being done with the worry about it. Either replace the little Ford relay completely or use the little Ford relay to pull in the larger relay/solenoid.

Thoughts? Suggestions? Other ideas on what is happening?

It makes the noise 1 time and that's it?

Hot start, cold start, or both? Can you feel it in the clutch pedal or shifter or is it noise only? I'd think the starter trying to engage again would be more identifiable though I've only ever had it not disengage. Putting in an fmr seems worthwhile as a test.

Does the zf5 have an inspection plate you can take off?

 

[ArdWrknTrk]

Question for y'all. I've been having a "clunk" or a "clang" as I start Big Blue from time to time. It kinda sounds like something hitting the fan, but it is a bit more solid than that. Doesn't happen often, but when it does it gets my attention. And I wake up at night thinking about it.

I'm wondering if the little Ford relay I'm using as the starter relay is making and then breaking and then making contact, causing the starter to engage, dis-engage, and re-engage. It seems like that would account for the sound.

It doesn't happen often enough that if I replaced the relay I'd know that was it - at least for a while. But I carry two spares in the glove box so I could and see if that makes a difference.

Or, I've been thinking about installing one of the big fender-style relays somewhere out of the way and being done with the worry about it. Either replace the little Ford relay completely or use the little Ford relay to pull in the larger relay/solenoid.

Thoughts? Suggestions? Other ideas on what is happening?

I've seen where PMGR's that are incorrectly wired with a jumper continue to stay engaged, because of backfeeding.

But honestly I've never heard that in my truck (and I have a little 40A cube relay in my distribution box as well)

Are you sure it isn't just bad mesh, and the starter gear is clanging into the flywheel?

I have many tales of woe going back a decade.

Does it happen as you disengage the key?

[Gary Lewis]

I've seen where PMGR's that are incorrectly wired with a jumper continue to stay engaged, because of backfeeding.

But honestly I've never heard that in my truck (and I have a little 40A cube relay in my distribution box as well)

Are you sure it isn't just bad mesh, and the starter gear is clanging into the flywheel?

I have many tales of woe going back a decade.

Does it happen as you disengage the key?

Scott - Sometimes it is one time, only. But sometimes it is multiple. And hot or cold. But I can't feel it save for an overall shudder, much like a kick back on starting. But I don't think there's an inspection plate to remove, although I'll look.

Jim - It doesn't stay engaged. It is only during cranking. You are cranking, get the noise and a bit of shudder, and it keeps cranking. And since it doesn't seem to happen on the initial engagement I don't think it is bad mesh. It happens during the cranking, not as you let up on the key.

If I go with a fender-style relay I'll just pull the trigger wire off the starter and run that as well as power to the new relay, and then a new wire down to the starter. But if the cube relay is now failing and it would do the same to the larger relay and I won't have learned anything. So I guess the first step should be to replace the cube relay and see if it goes away for a while and then comes back. If so then I need to consider rewiring and just use a fender-mounted relay.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Scott - Sometimes it is one time, only. But sometimes it is multiple. And hot or cold. But I can't feel it save for an overall shudder, much like a kick back on starting. But I don't think there's an inspection plate to remove, although I'll look.

Jim - It doesn't stay engaged. It is only during cranking. You are cranking, get the noise and a bit of shudder, and it keeps cranking. And since it doesn't seem to happen on the initial engagement I don't think it is bad mesh. It happens during the cranking, not as you let up on the key.

If I go with a fender-style relay I'll just pull the trigger wire off the starter and run that as well as power to the new relay, and then a new wire down to the starter. But if the cube relay is now failing and it would do the same to the larger relay and I won't have learned anything. So I guess the first step should be to replace the cube relay and see if it goes away for a while and then comes back. If so then I need to consider rewiring and just use a fender-mounted relay.

As a data point, I'm just saying that my cube relay is entirely functional.