Big Blue's Transformation

[Machspeed]

Jim - Which Sony app? I don't need Music Center, but do need Advanced Car Sound. And, as said, don't understand the "new" Google Maps app.

Well, that is interesting! I just fired up Google Maps on my iPhone. Then I fired up Music Center and then selected Google Maps from it. When I did it neatly slid over to the already-open Google Maps app.

So I used the trick of going from one app to another on the iPhone and went back to Music Center w/o killing Google Maps, and clicked on the pick in Music Center for Google Maps. Yep, it neatly slides over to the already-open Google Maps, showing wherever I'd left it on the map. IOW, it is the same app.

So that raises several questions. First, did clicking "install Google Maps" in Music Center just create a link or did it truly load a different Google Maps? Second, now that I've done that, what is different about the way the radio interacts with it.

All I have is the Google Maps on my phone, none of that other mess. I have an iPhone 11 and it links easily with my Sony stereo for both the music and Google maps. I love it! I'm thinking you've got too much junk causing issues and complicating things. I know you have an iPhone, what model?

[Gary Lewis]

All I have is the Google Maps on my phone, none of that other mess. I have an iPhone 11 and it links easily with my Sony stereo for both the music and Google maps. I love it! I'm thinking you've got too much junk causing issues and complicating things. I know you have an iPhone, what model?

I have an iPhone X (10). As for "junk", I am not having any problems with what I have. I just don't quite know what adding Google Maps to Sony's Music Center did for me.

I'm thinking it may display on the radio the next turn, like "Turn left in 500 feet". I know it shows Google Maps on the display when I first fire it up. But I haven't gone for a drive and played with it yet, so haven't had a route in it for it to display.

If so it will be interesting to see how accurate it is. I say that because several times of late Janey's been reading Google Maps and saying "I don't think we are to the turn yet." But as soon as we pass the turn she says "That was it!" So apparently there's a delay in getting the bubble showing our position moved on the screen. But I wonder if that is true of the "Turn left in 500 feet"?

[ArdWrknTrk]

Jim - Which Sony app? I don't need Music Center, but do need Advanced Car Sound. And, as said, don't understand the "new" Google Maps app.

Well, that is interesting! I just fired up Google Maps on my iPhone. Then I fired up Music Center and then selected Google Maps from it. When I did it neatly slid over to the already-open Google Maps app.

So I used the trick of going from one app to another on the iPhone and went back to Music Center w/o killing Google Maps, and clicked on the pick in Music Center for Google Maps. Yep, it neatly slides over to the already-open Google Maps, showing wherever I'd left it on the map. IOW, it is the same app.

So that raises several questions. First, did clicking "install Google Maps" in Music Center just create a link or did it truly load a different Google Maps? Second, now that I've done that, what is different about the way the radio interacts with it.

I've found no real purpose for advanced car sound.

It's only been since summer. If I figure out a need I suppose I can download it.

I'm never going to load some radio company's "music" app.

They've got no reason to access anything on my phone and don't need any more demographic information from me.

 

[Gary Lewis]

I've found no real purpose for advanced car sound.

It's only been since summer. If I figure out a need I suppose I can download it.

I'm never going to load some radio company's "music" app.

They've got no reason to access anything on my phone and don't need any more demographic information from me.

I'm not trying to sell you on Music Center. I don't think I use it. But I think you need it to have Advanced Sound, and in my setup with the "rear" speakers right above and behind you the DSP makes a huge difference. HUGE.

As for "don't think I use Music Center", I'm not sure what is pushing the song, artist, and album info to the radio. Perhaps that is Apple's app?

Also, I'm not sure where all of the settings are stored. The instructions imply that if you lose the keep-alive signal to the radio you lose the settings. But I've had the radio disconnected for an hour or more and they come back. Is that due to a capacitor or NVM in the radio or might they be saved in the Sony apps?

And, as said, the jury is still out on whether or not Google Maps pushes the turn info to the Sony's display via Music Center.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I'm not trying to sell you on Music Center. I don't think I use it. But I think you need it to have Advanced Sound, and in my setup with the "rear" speakers right above and behind you the DSP makes a huge difference. HUGE.

As for "don't think I use Music Center", I'm not sure what is pushing the song, artist, and album info to the radio. Perhaps that is Apple's app?

Also, I'm not sure where all of the settings are stored. The instructions imply that if you lose the keep-alive signal to the radio you lose the settings. But I've had the radio disconnected for an hour or more and they come back. Is that due to a capacitor or NVM in the radio or might they be saved in the Sony apps?

And, as said, the jury is still out on whether or not Google Maps pushes the turn info to the Sony's display via Music Center.

This head unit has non-volatile memory.

Though it may have some kind of cap or battery on the board I've not used any app that synchs with it.

 

[Gary Lewis]

This head unit has non-volatile memory.

Though it may have some kind of cap or battery on the board I've not used any app that synchs with it.

Gonna be a long report, so I'll start with the question so y'all won't have to read everything.

The last thing I did today was to work on the installation of the electric shifter for the OX locker. During that I had a question so called them, again, and talked to Chip. Again. Man, is he helpful! If you are looking for a locker and want customer support I can recommend OX.

With Chip's help I got the Drive Away Lock removed and the cable installed to the diff. The DAL is a device you put in the tool box for use if your electric shifter fails. It threads in where the cable goes in the diff and lets you engage manually. Then I played with where to put the shifter mechanism, and I think this one is the best.

You can see the 2 1/2" thick aluminum block between the mechanism and the frame. That gets the shifter flush with the edge of the frame and allows the cable to just miss the frame at the top red arrow. But it does touch the shock at the bottom red arrow. In both cases I'll split a piece of hose and put it over the cable for protection.

As for clearance to the header, that's 7".

Thoughts?

Now for the report I gave Janey: Do you want the good, the gooder, or the poor? Let's start with the good. First, I tapped into the BK/PK wire after the transmission's reverse switch and ran that to the switch in Mission Contron. Then I ran the #12 wire from the connection to the lights and trailer connector at the rear of the truck up to the relay and soldered in. And, I put convolute over both of those wires and secured it.

Which brings me to the "gooder". While running the #12 along the frame I found a hose hanging between the frame and the midship tank. Turns out it was the vent hose and it had come off the fitting on the tank, which probably explains the leak. So I pulled it off the metal vent line on the truck, confirmed that it was 3/16", and got some new hose out. It went on the vent tubing on the truck nicely, but refused to go on the vent on the tank. Turns out that is 1/4" on the new tanks, and while I'd gotten the old 3/16" line to go on there, it gradually worked its way off. But a piece of 1/4" fuel line did go on the tank and the 3/16" fuel line went inside it snugly, so I think that problem is fixed and I won't have to lower the tank to replace the gasket.

And now for the "poor". It was finally time to test the backup lights. Sure enough, when I clicked the switch into the "always on" position the lights came on and I heard the relay click under the hood. But when I turned the key on and put the tranny in Reverse they didn't come on nor did the relay click.

Back under the truck I found that the backup light connector wasn't fully on the switch, but when I pushed it on the relay clicked and the lights came on. At least they did until I let go of the connector. But when I let go the lights went off.

Turns out that the connector is bad, as shown below. Anybody have a good source for that connector? (I'll look in the pigtails catalog, but thought someone might know where to get it.)

[ArdWrknTrk]

Gonna be a long report, so I'll start with the question so y'all won't have to read everything.

The last thing I did today was to work on the installation of the electric shifter for the OX locker. During that I had a question so called them, again, and talked to Chip. Again. Man, is he helpful! If you are looking for a locker and want customer support I can recommend OX.

With Chip's help I got the Drive Away Lock removed and the cable installed to the diff. The DAL is a device you put in the tool box for use if your electric shifter fails. It threads in where the cable goes in the diff and lets you engage manually. Then I played with where to put the shifter mechanism, and I think this one is the best.

You can see the 2 1/2" thick aluminum block between the mechanism and the frame. That gets the shifter flush with the edge of the frame and allows the cable to just miss the frame at the top red arrow. But it does touch the shock at the bottom red arrow. In both cases I'll split a piece of hose and put it over the cable for protection.

As for clearance to the header, that's 7".

Thoughts?

Now for the report I gave Janey: Do you want the good, the gooder, or the poor? Let's start with the good. First, I tapped into the BK/PK wire after the transmission's reverse switch and ran that to the switch in Mission Contron. Then I ran the #12 wire from the connection to the lights and trailer connector at the rear of the truck up to the relay and soldered in. And, I put convolute over both of those wires and secured it.

Which brings me to the "gooder". While running the #12 along the frame I found a hose hanging between the frame and the midship tank. Turns out it was the vent hose and it had come off the fitting on the tank, which probably explains the leak. So I pulled it off the metal vent line on the truck, confirmed that it was 3/16", and got some new hose out. It went on the vent tubing on the truck nicely, but refused to go on the vent on the tank. Turns out that is 1/4" on the new tanks, and while I'd gotten the old 3/16" line to go on there, it gradually worked its way off. But a piece of 1/4" fuel line did go on the tank and the 3/16" fuel line went inside it snugly, so I think that problem is fixed and I won't have to lower the tank to replace the gasket.

And now for the "poor". It was finally time to test the backup lights. Sure enough, when I clicked the switch into the "always on" position the lights came on and I heard the relay click under the hood. But when I turned the key on and put the tranny in Reverse they didn't come on nor did the relay click.

Back under the truck I found that the backup light connector wasn't fully on the switch, but when I pushed it on the relay clicked and the lights came on. At least they did until I let go of the connector. But when I let go the lights went off.

Turns out that the connector is bad, as shown below. Anybody have a good source for that connector? (I'll look in the pigtails catalog, but thought someone might know where to get it.)

That reverse switch connector is available, but it's stupid expensive (IIRC from a decade ago)

Let me see if I can find the number in one of my old posts.

[Gary Lewis]

That reverse switch connector is available, but it's stupid expensive (IIRC from a decade ago)

Let me see if I can find the number in one of my old posts.

Thanks, Jim. I've been looking for it as well and have found these:

• JBG: Says it is for 1978-79 Ford Bronco & 1973-79 Ford F100, F150, F250, F350. But it looks right, and is only $15.

• Clips & Fasteners via Amazon: Basically $15 also, but would be here March 5th - 10th. It, too, looks correct.

Both of them look like this, which appears to be correct. Yes?

[Gary Lewis]

Thanks, Jim. I've been looking for it as well and have found these:

• JBG: Says it is for 1978-79 Ford Bronco & 1973-79 Ford F100, F150, F250, F350. But it looks right, and is only $15.

• Clips & Fasteners via Amazon: Basically $15 also, but would be here March 5th - 10th. It, too, looks correct.

Both of them look like this, which appears to be correct. Yes?

Jim - I pulled the trigger on this one: Standard Motor Products S743 Pigtail/Socket. It'll be ~$15 and should be here Thursday. Thanks anyway.

[Gary Lewis]

Jim - I pulled the trigger on this one: Standard Motor Products S743 Pigtail/Socket. It'll be ~$15 and should be here Thursday. Thanks anyway.

Got the electric OX locker actuator installed today. First, here's the bracket I made to move the actuator out 3" from the inside of the frame. The right side of it goes up against the inside of the frame and the bolts secure it. And the actuator goes through the round hole on the angle bracket, which came from OX:

That gave the cable a straight enough shot forward to miss the frame, although it is hard to tell that in the pic below. However, it does rest against the bottom of the shock, and there just isn't much way around that. But I did split a rubber hose and slip it over the cable to protect it.

And, it works. When you flip the switch in Mission Control you can hear the actuator work and then after a couple of seconds the indicator lights on the switch to say it is locked in. Sure enough, with the hubs locked in both wheels spin together. Then flip the switch and it whirs a bit, the indicator goes out, and the tires spin independently. (The truck was on the lift.)

Here are shots to show how it routes from both directions, but even then it is hard to tell what you are looking at.