Big Blue's Transformation

[85lebaront2]

LOL! You should have underlined and made bold the "nailheads had lots of low end torque" YES! My best friend's father was a used car salesman, and one day my buddy shows up with a '63 with that 425. We went for a drive and at about 30 MPH I said "Hit it" and reached over and pulled the shift lever all the way down.

Little did I know that 63's were PNDLR and the '64 my folks had was PRNDL. Yep, I yanked it into R and the secondaries opened. And the smoke rolled! I was afraid the tires would blow before he got it shut down.

And, speaking of the '64, it had the Super Turbine 300. And the tranny in the '66 you were working on was called a Super Turbine 400 and not a Turbo Hydro, but it was basically the same tranny save for having the switch-the-pitch feature. Driven correctly those things were FAST. But floored off the line they were dogs.

The trick was to turn to a non-existent station on the AM radio and practice giving it as much throttle as you could w/o switching the pitch, which put you in granny gear and you'd hear a click on the radio. Don't do that until you exit the intersection and you were GONE!

I know all about GM's Turbo-Hydramatics, having owned a few and modified a couple of Chevy ones to use the switch pitch converters that Buick, Cadillac and Oldsmobile used. One was a friend's Corvette autocross car, I just put a toggle switch on the console next to the shifter, put a valve body kit in that made it act like a Ford (1,2 the D) so it could be manually shifter in 1 and 2. He would leave it high angle 1 or 2 for a parking lot event, and use all 3 on our Solo II events at an unused airfield. At high angle it had roughly a 2500 rpm stall speed, low angle was around 1500.

Gm had them set up so that the car idled in high angle to reduce creep, went to low angle as soon as the throttle was touched, then back the high angle shortly before kickdown. That was the "click" you were listening for.

[Rusty_S85]

Olive Branch, MS. Janey's cousin, the owner of the two Chevy vehicles I've brought back here for restoration, lives there and we've visted.

Loved this pic from the article. No mistaking those valve covers, which would have fit on the engine that sat under the Will Carter Four Barrel that got me started on their carbs.

http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n87546/Edelbrock-409-engine-stand.jpg

Did you know that they are now making kits to make LS platform engines look like older GM engines for retrofits?

I wont flood with a bunch of photos but heres a couple of the items that are offered.

Such as this late 50s early 60s Rochester fuel injection setup

Or the Mark IV big block look

Or the 348/409 look

Some of the other things they offer are the lifter valley tray with a oil fill/breather tube, a mock distributor that bolts on the back of the engine and you mount your coil packs down low on the frame rail and the coil wires run up to the distributor on the inside then you have traditional plug wires from the distributor to the coils themselves.

I dont know why Ford hasnt done anything like that to make their late model engines look more retro for people that are installing them in older vehicles.

Me I am doing it the old fashion way by going with a newer block but back dating everything else to look early 80`s when internally its late 80s and newer.

[85lebaront2]

Olive Branch, MS. Janey's cousin, the owner of the two Chevy vehicles I've brought back here for restoration, lives there and we've visted.

Loved this pic from the article. No mistaking those valve covers, which would have fit on the engine that sat under the Will Carter Four Barrel that got me started on their carbs.

http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n87546/Edelbrock-409-engine-stand.jpg

Did you know that they are now making kits to make LS platform engines look like older GM engines for retrofits?

I wont flood with a bunch of photos but heres a couple of the items that are offered.

Such as this late 50s early 60s Rochester fuel injection setup

Or the Mark IV big block look

Or the 348/409 look

Some of the other things they offer are the lifter valley tray with a oil fill/breather tube, a mock distributor that bolts on the back of the engine and you mount your coil packs down low on the frame rail and the coil wires run up to the distributor on the inside then you have traditional plug wires from the distributor to the coils themselves.

I dont know why Ford hasnt done anything like that to make their late model engines look more retro for people that are installing them in older vehicles.

Me I am doing it the old fashion way by going with a newer block but back dating everything else to look early 80`s when internally its late 80s and newer.

Rusty, they have a kit to use a distributor on an LS if you don't want the computer and individual coils. The humorous part, it's a Ford distributor.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Olive Branch, MS. Janey's cousin, the owner of the two Chevy vehicles I've brought back here for restoration, lives there and we've visted.

Loved this pic from the article. No mistaking those valve covers, which would have fit on the engine that sat under the Will Carter Four Barrel that got me started on their carbs.

http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n87546/Edelbrock-409-engine-stand.jpg

Did you know that they are now making kits to make LS platform engines look like older GM engines for retrofits?

I wont flood with a bunch of photos but heres a couple of the items that are offered.

Such as this late 50s early 60s Rochester fuel injection setup

Or the Mark IV big block look

Or the 348/409 look

Some of the other things they offer are the lifter valley tray with a oil fill/breather tube, a mock distributor that bolts on the back of the engine and you mount your coil packs down low on the frame rail and the coil wires run up to the distributor on the inside then you have traditional plug wires from the distributor to the coils themselves.

I dont know why Ford hasnt done anything like that to make their late model engines look more retro for people that are installing them in older vehicles.

Me I am doing it the old fashion way by going with a newer block but back dating everything else to look early 80`s when internally its late 80s and newer.

Fords new engines are pretty wide, you know that.

It's a little absurd to dress a new engine up as old, dontcha think?

I understand repowering an older vehicle, but at some point (not far from that) you're better off body swapping a newer chassis or just building it from the ground up.

There's too much working around this, this and this to keep that.

Does the idea of a wipplecharged Godzilla crate engine sound appealing to me?

Sure. But the writings on the wall and I could have more performance from an AWD electric chassis if I wanted to drop that kind of coin.

[Gary Lewis]

Fords new engines are pretty wide, you know that.

It's a little absurd to dress a new engine up as old, dontcha think?

I understand repowering an older vehicle, but at some point (not far from that) you're better off body swapping a newer chassis or just building it from the ground up.

There's too much working around this, this and this to keep that.

Does the idea of a wipplecharged Godzilla crate engine sound appealing to me?

Sure. But the writings on the wall and I could have more performance from an AWD electric chassis if I wanted to drop that kind of coin.

Ok, I know that I threw the switch that took us off on this siding with the picture of the she's real fine my 409. Or, maybe we are parked, maaaan?

But I'm going to attempt get some help from y'all.

Got started on wiring the inverter. In fact I got the power and ground cables to it, as you'll see below, but I'm now stuck on finding either grommets or cable glands to fit. Or, maybe I should say find them that can get here tomorrow or Monday so I can keep working.

The opening in the cab corner that I'm running the wires through (one in each corner) is 1", and the #2 wires measure .45", but that can easily be increased to 1/2" with a piece of shrink tubing. But everything I'm finding from any vendor has a delivery date from 10 days to two weeks. Any suggestions?

As for what I got done, I did get the power and ground wires run under the "step" that the carpeted trucks get, the storage unit reinstalled, and the wires connected to the inverter with the inverter back in the storage unit. Then I coated the positive connection with two coats of liquid electrical tape, so I think it is pretty safe.

And, here's what it looks like:

[Gary Lewis]

Ok, I know that I threw the switch that took us off on this siding with the picture of the she's real fine my 409. Or, maybe we are parked, maaaan?

But I'm going to attempt get some help from y'all.

Got started on wiring the inverter. In fact I got the power and ground cables to it, as you'll see below, but I'm now stuck on finding either grommets or cable glands to fit. Or, maybe I should say find them that can get here tomorrow or Monday so I can keep working.

The opening in the cab corner that I'm running the wires through (one in each corner) is 1", and the #2 wires measure .45", but that can easily be increased to 1/2" with a piece of shrink tubing. But everything I'm finding from any vendor has a delivery date from 10 days to two weeks. Any suggestions?

As for what I got done, I did get the power and ground wires run under the "step" that the carpeted trucks get, the storage unit reinstalled, and the wires connected to the inverter with the inverter back in the storage unit. Then I coated the positive connection with two coats of liquid electrical tape, so I think it is pretty safe.

And, here's what it looks like:

Ok, I found them at Grainger: Rubber Grommet, 1/2 in I.D., 1 1/4 in O.D., 1/16 in Panel Thickness. And they'll be here Tuesday. That's not too bad since tomorrow I'll work on the website and watch the game, and Monday I'll work on the relay/charger box wiring.

I'd forgotten that I hadn't finished the wiring in that box, so I should be able to do that Monday and install it. Then I can start on the Mission Control wiring. Maybe this thing will come together!

[Rusty_S85]

Rusty, they have a kit to use a distributor on an LS if you don't want the computer and individual coils. The humorous part, it's a Ford distributor.

Yep and they have the dummy distributor that is just a rewire point. I dont like that idea as you are introducing multiple plug wires and then you got super long ones from the coils to the dummy distributor. That is just asking for trouble in my book.

Fords new engines are pretty wide, you know that.

It's a little absurd to dress a new engine up as old, dontcha think?

I understand repowering an older vehicle, but at some point (not far from that) you're better off body swapping a newer chassis or just building it from the ground up.

There's too much working around this, this and this to keep that.

Does the idea of a wipplecharged Godzilla crate engine sound appealing to me?

Sure. But the writings on the wall and I could have more performance from an AWD electric chassis if I wanted to drop that kind of coin.

With a 5.0 Coyote sure it is a big issue, the 5.0 Coyote is some 12 inches wider than a 351W due to the dual over head cam design. The 7.3 Godzilla motor how ever is a pushrod V8 and is only something like 2 - 3 inches wider than a 351W. I honestly believe a 7.3 Godzilla will fit in our trucks way easier than a 5.0 Coyote does which requires moving the firewall back as well as lowering the frame engine mount pads to lower the engine in the chassis and then you are stuck with a platform that requires the engine to be pulled to take the valve covers off cause the Coyote is so wide its up against the evaporator box and the brake booster lol.

I am very curious about the 7.3 Godzilla transplant cause I did the 5.0 Coyote at work and it was a chore. I want to see how easy the 7.3 Godzilla is, it has to be easy if there are guys dropping the 7.3 Godzilla in foxbody mustangs with no real modifications to the chassis.

[Rusty_S85]

Ok, I know that I threw the switch that took us off on this siding with the picture of the she's real fine my 409. Or, maybe we are parked, maaaan?

But I'm going to attempt get some help from y'all.

Got started on wiring the inverter. In fact I got the power and ground cables to it, as you'll see below, but I'm now stuck on finding either grommets or cable glands to fit. Or, maybe I should say find them that can get here tomorrow or Monday so I can keep working.

The opening in the cab corner that I'm running the wires through (one in each corner) is 1", and the #2 wires measure .45", but that can easily be increased to 1/2" with a piece of shrink tubing. But everything I'm finding from any vendor has a delivery date from 10 days to two weeks. Any suggestions?

As for what I got done, I did get the power and ground wires run under the "step" that the carpeted trucks get, the storage unit reinstalled, and the wires connected to the inverter with the inverter back in the storage unit. Then I coated the positive connection with two coats of liquid electrical tape, so I think it is pretty safe.

And, here's what it looks like:

http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n87745/Inverter_Installed_and_Wired.jpg

Is there a reason you are installing a power inverter?

Im kinda curious on that. I know when I was looking at the 4wd conversion I was looking at throwing a PTO driven airpump on mine so I can have a airhorn without the stupid electric pump but I have to limit myself I am adding way too much to what I want to add to my truck and its going to be more like a cluttered new truck than it is an old truck thats easy to work on.

[Gary Lewis]

Ok, I know that I threw the switch that took us off on this siding with the picture of the she's real fine my 409. Or, maybe we are parked, maaaan?

But I'm going to attempt get some help from y'all.

Got started on wiring the inverter. In fact I got the power and ground cables to it, as you'll see below, but I'm now stuck on finding either grommets or cable glands to fit. Or, maybe I should say find them that can get here tomorrow or Monday so I can keep working.

The opening in the cab corner that I'm running the wires through (one in each corner) is 1", and the #2 wires measure .45", but that can easily be increased to 1/2" with a piece of shrink tubing. But everything I'm finding from any vendor has a delivery date from 10 days to two weeks. Any suggestions?

As for what I got done, I did get the power and ground wires run under the "step" that the carpeted trucks get, the storage unit reinstalled, and the wires connected to the inverter with the inverter back in the storage unit. Then I coated the positive connection with two coats of liquid electrical tape, so I think it is pretty safe.

And, here's what it looks like:

http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n87745/Inverter_Installed_and_Wired.jpg

Is there a reason you are installing a power inverter?

Im kinda curious on that. I know when I was looking at the 4wd conversion I was looking at throwing a PTO driven airpump on mine so I can have a airhorn without the stupid electric pump but I have to limit myself I am adding way too much to what I want to add to my truck and its going to be more like a cluttered new truck than it is an old truck thats easy to work on.

Yes, there is a reason - to power the air compressor below. And the main need is to air the tires back up at the end of a trail. I'll air down to ~15 psi before hitting a trail, but the end of many of the trails in Colorado is back on the blacktop, so I'll have to air back up if I'm going very far/fast.

The compressor will be split up, with the tank going below the bed in front of the right rear tire. The compressor itself will go in the tool box in the bed. If I'm just topping the tank up, like towards the end of the trail, I can run it with the lid closed. But when I get to the end of the trail I'll open the lid, get the air hose and plug it in, and air the tires up. With the lid open the compressor will get plenty of air as it cycles on and off while I'm airing up.

[Rusty_S85]

Yes, there is a reason - to power the air compressor below. And the main need is to air the tires back up at the end of a trail. I'll air down to ~15 psi before hitting a trail, but the end of many of the trails in Colorado is back on the blacktop, so I'll have to air back up if I'm going very far/fast.

The compressor will be split up, with the tank going below the bed in front of the right rear tire. The compressor itself will go in the tool box in the bed. If I'm just topping the tank up, like towards the end of the trail, I can run it with the lid closed. But when I get to the end of the trail I'll open the lid, get the air hose and plug it in, and air the tires up. With the lid open the compressor will get plenty of air as it cycles on and off while I'm airing up.

http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n87796/HF_200_PSI_Compressor.jpg

But since you have a transfer case on the truck doesnt it have a PTO spot where you could throw in a PTO driven air compressor? This would remove the electrical load youd need for running a electric air compressor and you can be airing up the tank while you are wheeling off road.

That is what I was thinking of doing if I did the 4wd conversion, running a PTO driven aircompressor so all I would have to mount to the truck would be an air tank.