Big Blue's Transformation

[Gary Lewis]

Gary, from what I remember, the MAF air filter for the small engines is unique in having a snap clip retained top, the MAF on for the 460 still uses the same bottom half as the Dual hose for the SD systems You could simply swap lids rather than go through trying to repair cracked plastic.

If it is ABS, a slurry of chips, MEK and Acetone works well (from a Chemist friend at NNS).

Bill - The bottom half on the dual hose 460 units I have has a port that looks perfect for the fresh air hose for the PVC, just like on the side of a carb-style air cleaner. So it would be easy to plug that and use one of those - of which I have two.

But I'd like to repair this one if it is easy enough. And, I just found that the adhesive I have is WEST SYSTEM 655k G/Flex Epoxy Adhesive Repair Kit. And the writeup says, among other things:

• REPAIR SPLITS, CRACKS and small holes in plastic canoes, kayaks and other small boats made from HDPE, LDPE, ABS, PVC or polycarbonate plastic with the contents of this kit.

• GREATER FLEXIBILITY than traditional epoxies or polyester resins. Yet it is much stiffer than adhesive sealants. With a modulus of elasticity of 150,000 PSI, this epoxy bonds tenaciously to plastics, glass, masonry, metals, and fiberglass. Makes structural bonds that can absorb the stress of expansion, contraction, shock, and vibration.

So, I'm wondering about cutting a piece of metal to the size and shape of the tab and placing the serrated nut in it, then using the G/Flex to glue it to the bottom of the existing tab, pulling them together with a bolt in the serrated nut. That would surely put some of the epoxy into the crack.

Or, I could cut a tab off of a dual-hose base and use it instead of a piece of metal. But I prefer the piece of metal approach as it sounds stronger.

Thoughts, y'all?

[ArdWrknTrk]

Gary, from what I remember, the MAF air filter for the small engines is unique in having a snap clip retained top, the MAF on for the 460 still uses the same bottom half as the Dual hose for the SD systems You could simply swap lids rather than go through trying to repair cracked plastic.

If it is ABS, a slurry of chips, MEK and Acetone works well (from a Chemist friend at NNS).

Gary,

I'm pretty sure that would be G-flex from West Systems epoxy.

They are the ones who cut a kayak in half.

It is useful for plastics that are 'waxy' or have inert surfaces.

ABS is no problem. You can get cement in the plumbing aisle.

That is much handier than what Bill describes.

It's ready-made, with a brush, and probably some ethers on top of the ketones mentioned.

DCM is an incredible solvent, but now restricted to things like decaffeinating coffee.

Used to be easy to find as paint stripper.

A good solvent weld doesn't need reinforcement any more than a TIG weld does.

 

[Gary Lewis]

Gary,

I'm pretty sure that would be G-flex from West Systems epoxy.

They are the ones who cut a kayak in half.

It is useful for plastics that are 'waxy' or have inert surfaces.

ABS is no problem. You can get cement in the plumbing aisle.

That is much handier than what Bill describes.

It's ready-made, with a brush, and probably some ethers on top of the ketones mentioned.

DCM is an incredible solvent, but now restricted to things like decaffeinating coffee.

Used to be easy to find as paint stripper.

A good solvent weld doesn't need reinforcement any more than a TIG weld does.

Thanks, Jim. Yes, I did discover after Bill's post that it is the G-flex, and then asked a question about how best to use it.

The split in the tab allows the insert to turn. I fixed that temporarily with hot melt run on the insert before installing it. But I know that someone down the line is going to tighten that too much and cause the insert to spin.

So it seems to me that a better approach than just gluing the insert in with G-flex is to install the insert in a flat piece and glue that piece to the bottom of the tab. And the question becomes what type of material?

I can easily cut a piece of the stainless that I used to make the bracket for the isolator, and that will have the benefit of not rusting. Or, I could cut the ear off of one of the other bottom air boxes I have and use it. But the metal piece seems best since G-flex says that it "bonds tenaciously to plastics, glass, masonry, metals, and fiberglass", and that approach would ensure the insert won't turn and not destroy another box bottom.

Thoughts?

[ArdWrknTrk]

Thanks, Jim. Yes, I did discover after Bill's post that it is the G-flex, and then asked a question about how best to use it.

The split in the tab allows the insert to turn. I fixed that temporarily with hot melt run on the insert before installing it. But I know that someone down the line is going to tighten that too much and cause the insert to spin.

So it seems to me that a better approach than just gluing the insert in with G-flex is to install the insert in a flat piece and glue that piece to the bottom of the tab. And the question becomes what type of material?

I can easily cut a piece of the stainless that I used to make the bracket for the isolator, and that will have the benefit of not rusting. Or, I could cut the ear off of one of the other bottom air boxes I have and use it. But the metal piece seems best since G-flex says that it "bonds tenaciously to plastics, glass, masonry, metals, and fiberglass", and that approach would ensure the insert won't turn and not destroy another box bottom.

Thoughts?

I think we're parked, man.

Metals and most plastics have very different expansion coefficients.

I think your biggest challenge now is getting all trace of hotmelt off both parts.

If you want something for reinforcement consider 'glass or aramid scrim.

 

[Gary Lewis]

I think we're parked, man.

Metals and most plastics have very different expansion coefficients.

I think your biggest challenge now is getting all trace of hotmelt off both parts.

If you want something for reinforcement consider 'glass or aramid scrim.

Thanks, Jim. I've been rethinking my aversion to using the EEC-IV air box bottom and cannot find a good reason for not doing so. From what I can tell there's only one difference, and that's to do with the PCV filter hole.

Below are pics with and without the PCV fitting, and all I'd have to do is to plug that hole. I have two of those box bottoms and they have good tabs, so it seems like I should find a plug for the 1" hole and be done with it.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Thanks, Jim. I've been rethinking my aversion to using the EEC-IV air box bottom and cannot find a good reason for not doing so. From what I can tell there's only one difference, and that's to do with the PCV filter hole.

Below are pics with and without the PCV fitting, and all I'd have to do is to plug that hole. I have two of those box bottoms and they have good tabs, so it seems like I should find a plug for the 1" hole and be done with it.

So where does the EEC-V get its filtered air for the crankcase breather?

Is there a valid reason not to use the EEC-IV location?

[Gary Lewis]

So where does the EEC-V get its filtered air for the crankcase breather?

Is there a valid reason not to use the EEC-IV location?

I think the EEC-V system takes the filtered air off the bottom of the hose after the MAF sensor, where the hose splits into two for the throttle body, as shown below. And I'd guess that the reason is so the MAF sensor sees all the air flow.

I have all of the EEC-V intake hoses and they are very different to the EEC-IV stuff. The IV air box top has two openings where the V has one opening with studs for the MAF sensor. So I want to use the EEC-V plumbing as it should "bolt" in.

[85lebaront2]

So where does the EEC-V get its filtered air for the crankcase breather?

Is there a valid reason not to use the EEC-IV location?

From a nipple on the inlet hose behind the MAF sensor. Jim, the MAF system has to see all air that enters the engine, even the older EEC-IV systems did this. The PCV valve is a small "leak", but at idle is a noticeable percentage of the total volume.

[Gary Lewis]

From a nipple on the inlet hose behind the MAF sensor. Jim, the MAF system has to see all air that enters the engine, even the older EEC-IV systems did this. The PCV valve is a small "leak", but at idle is a noticeable percentage of the total volume.

Thanks, Bill. Looks like I'm thinking correctly.

[ArdWrknTrk]

From a nipple on the inlet hose behind the MAF sensor. Jim, the MAF system has to see all air that enters the engine, even the older EEC-IV systems did this. The PCV valve is a small "leak", but at idle is a noticeable percentage of the total volume.

Understood now.

I wasn't thinking of the MAF sensors placement.