Big Blue's Transformation

[salans7]

Bill - The connector at the PDB is only for convenience. I didn't put one on the PDB on the passenger's side and I've wanted to take it out already to make a change, and that's not easy. So I want to put a connector on this one just in case.

As for which connector, I don't know how many wires I'll have going through it yet. Let's wait until I get things detailed out, probably this Fall, before figuring out which connector to use. But, I'll want one that can carry enough current on some pins for the fog lights and backup lights.

On the 42-pin connectors, I have at least two sets, including the one on the '96 harness that Mark sent me from CA, which is a full engine harness with sequential firing. So I'm good to go there, but thanks.

As for what I did today, I gave Big Blue an attitude adjustment. He now has the proper stance - level.

I removed the 2" blocks and installed the 4" ones using the 13" u-bolts from RuffStuff. It was actually pretty easy using the safety stand under the axle. On the passenger's side it was a piece of cake, but on the driver's side I had to pull the axle vent to allow the brake block to float up and not hurt the brake hose.

Anyway, the rear sits maybe 1/4" higher at the top of the wheelwell opening than the front, which is right where I want it. And, for reference, the front is at 40" and the rear at 40 1/4".

Your truck has officially been F350'd. At least suspension wise.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Your truck has officially been F350'd. At least suspension wise.

Umm, it's been 150'd in the rear.

[salans7]

Umm, it's been 150'd in the rear.

How so?

[Gary Lewis]

How so?

I think he thinks that since I now have the same springs in the rear as your F350 has that it must be an F150.

I wonder how many leaves his rear springs have? And why he thinks a regular-cab SRW needs the same rear springs as Bill's crewcab DRW?

[Gary Lewis]

I think he thinks that since I now have the same springs in the rear as your F350 has that it must be an F150.

I wonder how many leaves his rear springs have? And why he thinks a regular-cab SRW needs the same rear springs as Bill's crewcab DRW?

Well, today I did what I should have done the other day - made a bracket for the battery isolator and attached it to the EFI air box bracket. That way it can be used now as well as later.

Yes, I'd already made a whizzbang bracket, and powder coated it, to hold the isolator. But then I discovered that two magnalugs won't fit on the studs for the isolator, and the temp solution of a connector nut put the hot battery terminal too close to the fender. So, if I was going to have to make another bracket why not do it right.

The bracket is made out of 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" stainless angle. I installed two nutserts to take the mounting screws for the isolator, and then drilled it five places and plug-welded it to the bottom of the EFI air box bracket.

Here's a shot of it looking at the back side of the air box bracket:

And here are the welds:

Then I made the third spacer to hold the air box bracket to the fender, and tried to mount the bracket. I lost count, but I know that I dropped each spacer at least once and one of them maybe three times. And, of course, each time they went into the bowels of the fender, usually into the front corner where it is really hard to get to. And, since I made the spacers out of stainless I couldn't pick them up with the magnet.

So, when the air box comes off next time I'll tack weld the spacers to it, media blast the whole thing, and then powder coat it. But, for now it is installed.

However, before getting to that pic there's another story. The EEC-V air box bottom didn't have any of the knurled nuts that hold the top to it. So I had to raid two EEC-IV air boxes to get enough of them, and then discovered that the ear of the EEC-V box is cracked, as shown below. I put the nut in with hot-melt glue, but I'm wondering about patching it somehow. Any suggestions? Maybe a piece of thin metal top and bottom held together with a nutsert?

But for now the EFI air box is in, and the battery isolator is installed, as you can see here:

[85lebaront2]

Well, today I did what I should have done the other day - made a bracket for the battery isolator and attached it to the EFI air box bracket. That way it can be used now as well as later.

Yes, I'd already made a whizzbang bracket, and powder coated it, to hold the isolator. But then I discovered that two magnalugs won't fit on the studs for the isolator, and the temp solution of a connector nut put the hot battery terminal too close to the fender. So, if I was going to have to make another bracket why not do it right.

The bracket is made out of 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" stainless angle. I installed two nutserts to take the mounting screws for the isolator, and then drilled it five places and plug-welded it to the bottom of the EFI air box bracket.

Here's a shot of it looking at the back side of the air box bracket:

And here are the welds:

Then I made the third spacer to hold the air box bracket to the fender, and tried to mount the bracket. I lost count, but I know that I dropped each spacer at least once and one of them maybe three times. And, of course, each time they went into the bowels of the fender, usually into the front corner where it is really hard to get to. And, since I made the spacers out of stainless I couldn't pick them up with the magnet.

So, when the air box comes off next time I'll tack weld the spacers to it, media blast the whole thing, and then powder coat it. But, for now it is installed.

However, before getting to that pic there's another story. The EEC-V air box bottom didn't have any of the knurled nuts that hold the top to it. So I had to raid two EEC-IV air boxes to get enough of them, and then discovered that the ear of the EEC-V box is cracked, as shown below. I put the nut in with hot-melt glue, but I'm wondering about patching it somehow. Any suggestions? Maybe a piece of thin metal top and bottom held together with a nutsert?

But for now the EFI air box is in, and the battery isolator is installed, as you can see here:

Nicely done sir!

[Gary Lewis]

Nicely done sir!

Thanks, Bill.

I wish I'd have thought of this bracket approach before as it would have saved me time. But I'm happy with the results this round and nothing will need to be changed re the isolator when I go EFI save for a short link from the isolator to the PDB, which will be where the ignition modules are now.

I needed to get everything nailed down as we are taking BB on another road trip on Wednesday. Both of us want to get out of the house, and I want to drive the truck and enjoy the speed control working correctly as well as the rear springs giving a bit on bumps.

And then I can move on to the next projects:

• Mission Control: Need to get the switches wired up

• Inverter: Need to wire it up now that I have the #2 wire run to the aux power relay

• OX Locker: Need to install the actuator and wire it up

• Air Compressor: Take it apart and install the tank below the bed and the compressor in the tool box

• Fog Lights: Install a relay and wire them up. May just do temp wiring so I'll have them for any driving we do this spring and summer, but will want to put the relay in the PDB if there's room later.

At that point the truck will be essentially ready for the outings we are hoping to do this spring and then the big trip this summer to Colorado.

 

[ArdWrknTrk]

Well, today I did what I should have done the other day - made a bracket for the battery isolator and attached it to the EFI air box bracket. That way it can be used now as well as later.

Yes, I'd already made a whizzbang bracket, and powder coated it, to hold the isolator. But then I discovered that two magnalugs won't fit on the studs for the isolator, and the temp solution of a connector nut put the hot battery terminal too close to the fender. So, if I was going to have to make another bracket why not do it right.

The bracket is made out of 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" stainless angle. I installed two nutserts to take the mounting screws for the isolator, and then drilled it five places and plug-welded it to the bottom of the EFI air box bracket.

Here's a shot of it looking at the back side of the air box bracket:

And here are the welds:

Then I made the third spacer to hold the air box bracket to the fender, and tried to mount the bracket. I lost count, but I know that I dropped each spacer at least once and one of them maybe three times. And, of course, each time they went into the bowels of the fender, usually into the front corner where it is really hard to get to. And, since I made the spacers out of stainless I couldn't pick them up with the magnet.

So, when the air box comes off next time I'll tack weld the spacers to it, media blast the whole thing, and then powder coat it. But, for now it is installed.

However, before getting to that pic there's another story. The EEC-V air box bottom didn't have any of the knurled nuts that hold the top to it. So I had to raid two EEC-IV air boxes to get enough of them, and then discovered that the ear of the EEC-V box is cracked, as shown below. I put the nut in with hot-melt glue, but I'm wondering about patching it somehow. Any suggestions? Maybe a piece of thin metal top and bottom held together with a nutsert?

But for now the EFI air box is in, and the battery isolator is installed, as you can see here:

Do you know what kind of plastic the airbox is made from?

I would probably solvent weld it, and maybe add some slurry to hold the nut in and reinforce the whole tab/boss.

It's real frustrating that chemicals like metheylene chloride are all but banned now.

 

[Gary Lewis]

Do you know what kind of plastic the airbox is made from?I would probably solvent weld it, and maybe add some slurry to hold the nut in and reinforce the whole tab/boss.It's real frustrating that chemicals like metheylene chloride are all but banned now.

Jim - I don't have any idea what the air box is made of. However, I have two other bases, both EEC-IV's, and from what I can tell the only difference in the base is that there's an extra fitting in the side of the IV's, probably for filtered air for the PVC. So, worst case is that I could use one of them if the EEC-V base isn't usable. But, I'm willing to sacrifice one of them to see what works on the plastic.

 

So, what would you recommend? What would I use to "solvent weld" it?

 

Also, I do have some of the adhesive you've recommended for plastic. The stuff that advertises that they glued a canoe back together, although I don't remember what that is. If it works on plastic and metal I could use it to glue a piece of metal to the bottom of the tab, and have a nutsert set in the piece of metal.

 

We aren't talking about a lot of force as it just holds the lid of the air box to the base, but I would like to reinforce it at some point to prevent further damage.

[85lebaront2]

Well, today I did what I should have done the other day - made a bracket for the battery isolator and attached it to the EFI air box bracket. That way it can be used now as well as later.

Yes, I'd already made a whizzbang bracket, and powder coated it, to hold the isolator. But then I discovered that two magnalugs won't fit on the studs for the isolator, and the temp solution of a connector nut put the hot battery terminal too close to the fender. So, if I was going to have to make another bracket why not do it right.

The bracket is made out of 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" stainless angle. I installed two nutserts to take the mounting screws for the isolator, and then drilled it five places and plug-welded it to the bottom of the EFI air box bracket.

Here's a shot of it looking at the back side of the air box bracket:

And here are the welds:

Then I made the third spacer to hold the air box bracket to the fender, and tried to mount the bracket. I lost count, but I know that I dropped each spacer at least once and one of them maybe three times. And, of course, each time they went into the bowels of the fender, usually into the front corner where it is really hard to get to. And, since I made the spacers out of stainless I couldn't pick them up with the magnet.

So, when the air box comes off next time I'll tack weld the spacers to it, media blast the whole thing, and then powder coat it. But, for now it is installed.

However, before getting to that pic there's another story. The EEC-V air box bottom didn't have any of the knurled nuts that hold the top to it. So I had to raid two EEC-IV air boxes to get enough of them, and then discovered that the ear of the EEC-V box is cracked, as shown below. I put the nut in with hot-melt glue, but I'm wondering about patching it somehow. Any suggestions? Maybe a piece of thin metal top and bottom held together with a nutsert?

But for now the EFI air box is in, and the battery isolator is installed, as you can see here:

Gary, from what I remember, the MAF air filter for the small engines is unique in having a snap clip retained top, the MAF on for the 460 still uses the same bottom half as the Dual hose for the SD systems You could simply swap lids rather than go through trying to repair cracked plastic.

If it is ABS, a slurry of chips, MEK and Acetone works well (from a Chemist friend at NNS).