Big Blue's Transformation

[Gary Lewis]

And, as I think about it, I'll see what driven gear is in the transfer case and if I have the right replacement. It reads about 8% slow. Maybe I can make that better as well.

Hmmm? 11 mpg becomes 11.88 mpg!

Well, I let the tires down - from 40 to 35 psi. Will that help?

As for the "improved" MPG, not going to happen, at least not now. I have a red/16-toothed gear in it and our handy dandy calculator says I need a 15-toothed right-hand gear. I don't have one and a quick look says Ford didn't use one and I didn't see anything with a Google search.

Besides, last I checked the odometer was very accurate. So it appears that the speedometer is the issue. If I remember correctly the speedo can be calibrated and the magic # is 1000 RPM = 60 MPH. My lathe has several speeds and while none is exactly 1000, I think I can do the math to inter/extrapolate. So, when I'm next into that area, which will be when I replace the instrument bezel, I think I'll try that. Or, maybe I'll try in the interim w/a spare speedo.

On a related speed (), I swapped out the speed control transducer and lubed the one I put in. And, I re-lubed the lower speedo cable. Last time I used some graphite lube meant for that purpose, but it didn't do the job. This time I used Sta-Lube's Synthetic Brake Caliper Grease, which says it contains moly b'dern, graphite, and Teflon. May work for a speedo cable.

So it is off to the alignment shop in a bit, then the gas station to fill up the rear tank and calibrate the Meter Match, and then to ship a few things.

[Nothing Special]

.... So it is off to the alignment shop in a bit, then the gas station to fill up the rear tank and calibrate the Meter Match, and then to ship a few things.

How does the MeterMatch work with two fuel level sensors and one gage? Does it have the ability to handle that? Or do you need a separate MeterMatch for each tank?

I ask because the fuel gage on my Bronco is really hard to use, especially on the main tank. The aux tank is only 9 gallons and when it gets to "E" there's maybe 3 gallons left, which is a reasonable safety margin. But neither on either tank the gage doesn't go all the way to "F". And the 23 gallon(?) main tank reads 3/4 when it's full, and hits "E" with about 15 gallons remaining. That makes the gage pretty unusable!

[Gary Lewis]

.... So it is off to the alignment shop in a bit, then the gas station to fill up the rear tank and calibrate the Meter Match, and then to ship a few things.

How does the MeterMatch work with two fuel level sensors and one gage? Does it have the ability to handle that? Or do you need a separate MeterMatch for each tank?

I ask because the fuel gage on my Bronco is really hard to use, especially on the main tank. The aux tank is only 9 gallons and when it gets to "E" there's maybe 3 gallons left, which is a reasonable safety margin. But neither on either tank the gage doesn't go all the way to "F". And the 23 gallon(?) main tank reads 3/4 when it's full, and hits "E" with about 15 gallons remaining. That makes the gage pretty unusable!

Bob - The way I did it was to put the switch ahead of the Meter Match so I switched the senders. But you could put in two Meter Matches and switch the gauge.

However, if both senders have roughly the same resistance at empty and full then you could program one Meter Match to work for you. Neither gauge is likely to be "right" but I'd think they'd be close.

If you know the resistance of the senders at empty and full you can use resistors to calibrate the unit initially. That's what I did and it got me pretty close, but empty on the rear tank was well past the E until yesterday. So now I'm calibrating with the tank empty and then at 1/3, 2/3, and full.

On yours, E represents 1/3 of the aux tank and more like 2/3 of the main tank. So you could set it up for E to be truly empty on the Aux and you might have a few gallons left on the main tank. And you can certainly get one of the tanks to read Full on the gauge when full, and the other would be close. So I think you'd like it.

Now, to shed some light () on the positioning of the fog lights, I adjusted the choke today and needed to stand on the bumper to do it. So I put some tape on the bumper to simulate where I thought I could put my foot and climbed up there. Then it dawned on me that the lights stick out farther than I thought so I put the driver's side fog light in the inboard position. And I can't get my foot there to do anything under the hood. So I'm pretty sure I'll put the lights in the outboard position.

[Rusty_S85]

Well, I let the tires down - from 40 to 35 psi. Will that help?

As for the "improved" MPG, not going to happen, at least not now. I have a red/16-toothed gear in it and our handy dandy calculator says I need a 15-toothed right-hand gear. I don't have one and a quick look says Ford didn't use one and I didn't see anything with a Google search.

Besides, last I checked the odometer was very accurate. So it appears that the speedometer is the issue. If I remember correctly the speedo can be calibrated and the magic # is 1000 RPM = 60 MPH. My lathe has several speeds and while none is exactly 1000, I think I can do the math to inter/extrapolate. So, when I'm next into that area, which will be when I replace the instrument bezel, I think I'll try that. Or, maybe I'll try in the interim w/a spare speedo.

On a related speed (), I swapped out the speed control transducer and lubed the one I put in. And, I re-lubed the lower speedo cable. Last time I used some graphite lube meant for that purpose, but it didn't do the job. This time I used Sta-Lube's Synthetic Brake Caliper Grease, which says it contains moly b'dern, graphite, and Teflon. May work for a speedo cable.

So it is off to the alignment shop in a bit, then the gas station to fill up the rear tank and calibrate the Meter Match, and then to ship a few things.

You have 40 in your tires? Dang I only run the OE 35 psi front and rear like my door tag says on my 31x10.50-15 BFG KO2s.

When I got them on discount aired them up to 50 psi which is what the tire said but my back tire was egg shaped with just a pizza cutter width center contact patch with the road. I reduced all tires back to 35 PSI and nice full contact patch that isnt under inflated.

I can go as low as 10 psi and the tires are still standing up enough to be rode on.

[Gary Lewis]

You have 40 in your tires? Dang I only run the OE 35 psi front and rear like my door tag says on my 31x10.50-15 BFG KO2s.

When I got them on discount aired them up to 50 psi which is what the tire said but my back tire was egg shaped with just a pizza cutter width center contact patch with the road. I reduced all tires back to 35 PSI and nice full contact patch that isnt under inflated.

I can go as low as 10 psi and the tires are still standing up enough to be rode on.

I had 40 in them, but it made them like steel wheels on gravel roads. I put them back to the 35 I've been running before taking it in for alignment.

And, speaking of that, the big wig there assured me that if it drives fine on a flat concrete road that changing the toe-in won't make any difference. But, they'd check it out. Turns out it was toed out .16 degrees, so they set it to the .06 toe in the FSM called for. And it certainly drives better. We hope to take it out again later this week for another outing and will find out more then.

Also, I stopped by the filling station and calibrated the gauge. Took some time but have it set up to read correctly at empty, 1/3, 2/3, and full. And speaking of full, it would only take 16 gallons. So apparently it runs out with 3 gallons left in the rear tank.

And I tried the speed control. The switches on the Bricknose pad work perfectly. Thanks again, Scott! But there is still some unevenness in the operation of the speed control. At speed the speedometer is rock steady, but at low speeds like in the neighborhood at 15 - 20 MPH I can see the needle flicker.

So, y'all, where do I go next on getting the speed control smoothed out?

I don't think it is the speedo cables as both cables are well lubed. And the transducer has been changed out with no effect. These systems don't have a vacuum reservoir do they? I can't see one in the documentation. But I can sure see the throttle action on the vacuum gauge. So I'm at a loss as to what to do next.

On another subject, one week to the day after ordering the switches they came in. I popped them in, save for the locker switch as the old one was already in, for a photo opportunity:

[Machspeed]

I had 40 in them, but it made them like steel wheels on gravel roads. I put them back to the 35 I've been running before taking it in for alignment.

And, speaking of that, the big wig there assured me that if it drives fine on a flat concrete road that changing the toe-in won't make any difference. But, they'd check it out. Turns out it was toed out .16 degrees, so they set it to the .06 toe in the FSM called for. And it certainly drives better. We hope to take it out again later this week for another outing and will find out more then.

Also, I stopped by the filling station and calibrated the gauge. Took some time but have it set up to read correctly at empty, 1/3, 2/3, and full. And speaking of full, it would only take 16 gallons. So apparently it runs out with 3 gallons left in the rear tank.

And I tried the speed control. The switches on the Bricknose pad work perfectly. Thanks again, Scott! But there is still some unevenness in the operation of the speed control. At speed the speedometer is rock steady, but at low speeds like in the neighborhood at 15 - 20 MPH I can see the needle flicker.

So, y'all, where do I go next on getting the speed control smoothed out?

I don't think it is the speedo cables as both cables are well lubed. And the transducer has been changed out with no effect. These systems don't have a vacuum reservoir do they? I can't see one in the documentation. But I can sure see the throttle action on the vacuum gauge. So I'm at a loss as to what to do next.

On another subject, one week to the day after ordering the switches they came in. I popped them in, save for the locker switch as the old one was already in, for a photo opportunity:

That switch set up is sweet, Gary! Really like what you did with that. Looks factory. Curious, who did the front end alignment on your truck?

[ArdWrknTrk]

Well, I let the tires down - from 40 to 35 psi. Will that help?

As for the "improved" MPG, not going to happen, at least not now. I have a red/16-toothed gear in it and our handy dandy calculator says I need a 15-toothed right-hand gear. I don't have one and a quick look says Ford didn't use one and I didn't see anything with a Google search.

Besides, last I checked the odometer was very accurate. So it appears that the speedometer is the issue. If I remember correctly the speedo can be calibrated and the magic # is 1000 RPM = 60 MPH. My lathe has several speeds and while none is exactly 1000, I think I can do the math to inter/extrapolate. So, when I'm next into that area, which will be when I replace the instrument bezel, I think I'll try that. Or, maybe I'll try in the interim w/a spare speedo.

On a related speed (), I swapped out the speed control transducer and lubed the one I put in. And, I re-lubed the lower speedo cable. Last time I used some graphite lube meant for that purpose, but it didn't do the job. This time I used Sta-Lube's Synthetic Brake Caliper Grease, which says it contains moly b'dern, graphite, and Teflon. May work for a speedo cable.

So it is off to the alignment shop in a bit, then the gas station to fill up the rear tank and calibrate the Meter Match, and then to ship a few things.

Mission control is SWEET!

I wouldn't hesitate to drill holes to mount the lights outboard.

It's YOUR truck...

I use Cable Life and their injector to lube my speedo.

[kramttocs]

I had 40 in them, but it made them like steel wheels on gravel roads. I put them back to the 35 I've been running before taking it in for alignment.

And, speaking of that, the big wig there assured me that if it drives fine on a flat concrete road that changing the toe-in won't make any difference. But, they'd check it out. Turns out it was toed out .16 degrees, so they set it to the .06 toe in the FSM called for. And it certainly drives better. We hope to take it out again later this week for another outing and will find out more then.

Also, I stopped by the filling station and calibrated the gauge. Took some time but have it set up to read correctly at empty, 1/3, 2/3, and full. And speaking of full, it would only take 16 gallons. So apparently it runs out with 3 gallons left in the rear tank.

And I tried the speed control. The switches on the Bricknose pad work perfectly. Thanks again, Scott! But there is still some unevenness in the operation of the speed control. At speed the speedometer is rock steady, but at low speeds like in the neighborhood at 15 - 20 MPH I can see the needle flicker.

So, y'all, where do I go next on getting the speed control smoothed out?

I don't think it is the speedo cables as both cables are well lubed. And the transducer has been changed out with no effect. These systems don't have a vacuum reservoir do they? I can't see one in the documentation. But I can sure see the throttle action on the vacuum gauge. So I'm at a loss as to what to do next.

On another subject, one week to the day after ordering the switches they came in. I popped them in, save for the locker switch as the old one was already in, for a photo opportunity:

Looks excellent!

Are you talking about the speed control or the speedometer as being uneven? I didn't think speed control worked below 30. Mine is sporadic at best right now but I believe I read 30 minimum in the manual a few months ago.

They are tied into the vacuum system.

[Gary Lewis]

That switch set up is sweet, Gary! Really like what you did with that. Looks factory. Curious, who did the front end alignment on your truck?

Thanks, guys! I'm really pleased with it as well. And I think it'll look awesome when lit up at night.

Now I need to figure out what to do with that opening above the switches. Could put a black piece of plastic back there to close it off.

John - The alignment was done at Tate Boys.

Jim - I'll think about drilling a new hole on the driver's side to line the lights up with the headlights and turn signals. It would only be one extra hole 'cause I obviously have to drill a hole some place on the passenger's side.

[Rembrant]

I had 40 in them, but it made them like steel wheels on gravel roads. I put them back to the 35 I've been running before taking it in for alignment.

And, speaking of that, the big wig there assured me that if it drives fine on a flat concrete road that changing the toe-in won't make any difference. But, they'd check it out. Turns out it was toed out .16 degrees, so they set it to the .06 toe in the FSM called for. And it certainly drives better. We hope to take it out again later this week for another outing and will find out more then.

Also, I stopped by the filling station and calibrated the gauge. Took some time but have it set up to read correctly at empty, 1/3, 2/3, and full. And speaking of full, it would only take 16 gallons. So apparently it runs out with 3 gallons left in the rear tank.

And I tried the speed control. The switches on the Bricknose pad work perfectly. Thanks again, Scott! But there is still some unevenness in the operation of the speed control. At speed the speedometer is rock steady, but at low speeds like in the neighborhood at 15 - 20 MPH I can see the needle flicker.

So, y'all, where do I go next on getting the speed control smoothed out?

I don't think it is the speedo cables as both cables are well lubed. And the transducer has been changed out with no effect. These systems don't have a vacuum reservoir do they? I can't see one in the documentation. But I can sure see the throttle action on the vacuum gauge. So I'm at a loss as to what to do next.

On another subject, one week to the day after ordering the switches they came in. I popped them in, save for the locker switch as the old one was already in, for a photo opportunity:

I like the cockpit switches on the center bezel Gary. Looking good.