Big Blue's Transformation

[Gary Lewis]

And if that wasn't too long already...

Often "fog lights" come with amber lenses. That helps to reduce glare back from the lights bouncing off fog. But in my opinion it mostly helps because lights through an amber lens aren't as bright. If you want to reduce glare get lower wattage bulbs, or drop the voltage and you get the same benefit in fog. So I strongly prefer clear lenses. They're still often called "fog lights", but sometimes I've seen them called "cornering lights" as well.

And then this might just be me, but I don't like LED lighting on older trucks. They draw less power which is great, especially when parked in camp. But I just think they look out of place. It's getting harder to find halogen lights, but I really prefer that for fogs. The one's I'm currently using are these.

For floods I usually get utility lights at a tractor supply store. They are pretty cheap and have a good look (in my opinion) for old trucks. The only challenge is that they often have a trapezoidal beam (not quite as wide horizontally, but wider vertically than a fog light). That's not terrible, but I really prefer the flood pattern when I can find it.

Oh, and on being That Guy... Like you've noticed, "overlanders" have lights EVERYWHERE! A couple on the front bumper, upgraded headlights, a couple on the A-pillars, 6 - 8 across the top of the windshield, several along each side, a couple in the rear bumper, and a few more high in the back. Plus "rock lights" underneath. That's one of the reasons I refuse to ever be an overlander. I'll camp out of my truck (that's what it used to be called). But I'm not going to conform to the standard that "overlanders" seem to have.

And have you ever watched videos of trucks with lights like that at night? Man I'd hate to be in a group like that! The only person who can actually see anything is the guy in back who doesn't have several million candlepower hitting his mirrors.

So I applaud your thoughts on keeping it reasonable.

Having briefly mentioned rock lights, I've never had them, but I have thought about getting them. If you ever get caught out on a trail in the dark (I was, once), it can be impossible to see what you're tires and diffs will be hitting. I was reduced to turning off my headlights and having the spotter hold a flashlight. Rock lights would be much better there. And I could see rock lights being nice in camp, making it easier to see right around the truck, but not hurting the ambience of the campfire too much.

And there is one other light we haven't talked about. People who run in a group on dusty roads often have bright (but often amber) lights on the back. Often these lights flash like a strobe. That is to help people coming up behind you realize that there's a truck in the middle of the dust cloud. Not a bad idea if you're doing stuff like that. I've never done stuff like that though, so it's not something I often think about.

Bob - I agree about LED lighting on these trucks. I don't think it looks right. So what I'd really like to do is what others have done and cut into the bumper and put lights in there. But I'm afraid it would be sacrilege to cut into a Warn bumper.

As for "fog" light, I always think they are yellow and I don't want that. But I do want a wide spread.

Then there's all the other lights. I'll pass. I doubt I'll do a whole lot of this, so I can take lanterns, headlights, etc for the other things. Plus, my son got me the party light string that will help in a camp.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Bob - I agree about LED lighting on these trucks. I don't think it looks right. So what I'd really like to do is what others have done and cut into the bumper and put lights in there. But I'm afraid it would be sacrilege to cut into a Warn bumper.

As for "fog" light, I always think they are yellow and I don't want that. But I do want a wide spread.

Then there's all the other lights. I'll pass. I doubt I'll do a whole lot of this, so I can take lanterns, headlights, etc for the other things. Plus, my son got me the party light string that will help in a camp.

I don't think fog lights are always selective yellow, it's just tradition.

As for placement, obviously the lower the better. But you're never going to get that with a lifted truck, and if you did, they would get creamed off road.

-Daniel Stern has a lot of thoughts and facts about all kinds of down road auxiliary lighting-

I'm totally NOT a fan of LED lightbars across the hood or visor like Ridgid sells.

But it seems to complete the Bruh look that many are going for.

I have a couple of tiny work lights on my rack just behind my cab.

They work great for seeing things in my bed or the general area around the rear of my truck.

But not much good for close in (like checking tire pressure or plugging in a trailer)

"Ground effects" lighting would be better for that.

 

[Nothing Special]

I don't think fog lights are always selective yellow, it's just tradition.

As for placement, obviously the lower the better. But you're never going to get that with a lifted truck, and if you did, they would get creamed off road....

For fog light placement I like on top of the bumper. Personally I like the look (assuming the lights have the right old-school look). And while they could be lower, they're still pretty low and definitely well protected.

I aim them so the top of the beam is horizontal and the same height off the ground as the top of the lights. So they don't shine up at all to blind other drivers. And I aim them out so there is just a little overlap between the two lights in the middle. It ends up looking a little odd with the lights pointing out so far. But it gets really good side-to-side coverage.

http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n13104/DSC_7617_EngMtRd.jpg

 

[Gary Lewis]

I don't think fog lights are always selective yellow, it's just tradition.

As for placement, obviously the lower the better. But you're never going to get that with a lifted truck, and if you did, they would get creamed off road....

For fog light placement I like on top of the bumper. Personally I like the look (assuming the lights have the right old-school look). And while they could be lower, they're still pretty low and definitely well protected.

I aim them so the top of the beam is horizontal and the same height off the ground as the top of the lights. So they don't shine up at all to blind other drivers. And I aim them out so there is just a little overlap between the two lights in the middle. It ends up looking a little odd with the lights pointing out so far. But it gets really good side-to-side coverage.

http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n13104/DSC_7617_EngMtRd.jpg

On the lighting, I agree about the light bars, and especially up high. Everything I've read says that's a bad place for them. However, down low they can be pretty effective.

So, I've actually thought about placing one across that flat spot above the winch lead. It is 3 1/4" up/down and 25" left/right, so a 20" one would fit. And, the height of one of the Rigid ones is only 2", so it would fit. But, I'm not sure I like the look and they are EXPENSIVE!

So, I'm also thinking about recessing lights like you did, Jim, and Dave did as well. And the concern there is do I want to cut the Warn bumper? And, if I have to weld to it that will ruin the chrome, which is already quite thin. And that would probably mean I should powder coat it as the chrome is flaking in some places.

But the bumper angles 14 degrees on both sides. Bob - Do you know how much you angled your lights?

As for what I did today, I got the power box "installed", although it needs to come back off to wire it up. Anyway, here 'tis. Note that I had to space it out to be able to get one of the plug-in chargers in. And with that I can now turn the caps back around.

[ArdWrknTrk]

On the lighting, I agree about the light bars, and especially up high. Everything I've read says that's a bad place for them. However, down low they can be pretty effective.

So, I've actually thought about placing one across that flat spot above the winch lead. It is 3 1/4" up/down and 25" left/right, so a 20" one would fit. And, the height of one of the Rigid ones is only 2", so it would fit. But, I'm not sure I like the look and they are EXPENSIVE!

So, I'm also thinking about recessing lights like you did, Jim, and Dave did as well. And the concern there is do I want to cut the Warn bumper? And, if I have to weld to it that will ruin the chrome, which is already quite thin. And that would probably mean I should powder coat it as the chrome is flaking in some places.

But the bumper angles 14 degrees on both sides. Bob - Do you know how much you angled your lights?

As for what I did today, I got the power box "installed", although it needs to come back off to wire it up. Anyway, here 'tis. Note that I had to space it out to be able to get one of the plug-in chargers in. And with that I can now turn the caps back around.

I've been thinking (always dangerous) and recall that inverter has remote on.

IIRC, I didn't have that harness, but saw it as available.

To that end, it probably doesn't need to be their harness either.

Just the plug that fits and jumpering the correct terminals.

Ridgid lighting is high quality stuff and very efficient by current standards.

I don't think it is any detraction placed as you show.

Obviously there are dozens of knockoffs that range from absolute garbage to whatever the Chinese kept running off the line during third shift.

My fog lights are not attached to the bumper itself in any way.

I've got them mounted in the Bricknose bumper stays.

I think Dave resorted to painting his bumper.

[kramttocs]

On the lighting, I agree about the light bars, and especially up high. Everything I've read says that's a bad place for them. However, down low they can be pretty effective.

So, I've actually thought about placing one across that flat spot above the winch lead. It is 3 1/4" up/down and 25" left/right, so a 20" one would fit. And, the height of one of the Rigid ones is only 2", so it would fit. But, I'm not sure I like the look and they are EXPENSIVE!

So, I'm also thinking about recessing lights like you did, Jim, and Dave did as well. And the concern there is do I want to cut the Warn bumper? And, if I have to weld to it that will ruin the chrome, which is already quite thin. And that would probably mean I should powder coat it as the chrome is flaking in some places.

But the bumper angles 14 degrees on both sides. Bob - Do you know how much you angled your lights?

As for what I did today, I got the power box "installed", although it needs to come back off to wire it up. Anyway, here 'tis. Note that I had to space it out to be able to get one of the plug-in chargers in. And with that I can now turn the caps back around.

Is that a hole on the top of the bumper to the right (per photo) of the winch?

[Gary Lewis]

Is that a hole on the top of the bumper to the right (per photo) of the winch?

Jim - Yes, the inverter does have an RJ-11 jack for a remote. And I've thought about sticking a telephone line in and seeing if I could figure out what two wires to connect in order to shut it down.

However that won't shut down the chargers. And it is easy enough to reach behind the seat and turn it off, although not while driving. But I'm thinking just turning off the relay, or not turning it on, will be enough.

And if you didn't attach your lights to the bumper maybe I could do that. There's a brace back there and I could weld a bracket to that and just cut the hole and paint the edge w/o welding to it.

Scott - Not sure where you are asking about, but here's the bumper w/o my overlay. However there is a capped hole to the right in the picture on top. Are you thinking of placing lights there? There isn't a matching one on the other side, but that would be easy.

 

[ArdWrknTrk]

Jim - Yes, the inverter does have an RJ-11 jack for a remote. And I've thought about sticking a telephone line in and seeing if I could figure out what two wires to connect in order to shut it down.

However that won't shut down the chargers. And it is easy enough to reach behind the seat and turn it off, although not while driving. But I'm thinking just turning off the relay, or not turning it on, will be enough.

And if you didn't attach your lights to the bumper maybe I could do that. There's a brace back there and I could weld a bracket to that and just cut the hole and paint the edge w/o welding to it.

Scott - Not sure where you are asking about, but here's the bumper w/o my overlay. However there is a capped hole to the right in the picture on top. Are you thinking of placing lights there? There isn't a matching one on the other side, but that would be easy.

IIRC it's a momentary switch that you have to hold for something like 5 seconds.

The USB in the inverter is always on.

The manual pdf is available.

And I imagine a popular inverter like that probably has a how-to on Reddit or YouTube.

I have a new bumper due to that woman backing into me.

I can take some pictures while I swap it out.

But mind, I made my braces from whatever scrap I had behind the stable.

There was no new new material or milling machines involved.

[kramttocs]

Jim - Yes, the inverter does have an RJ-11 jack for a remote. And I've thought about sticking a telephone line in and seeing if I could figure out what two wires to connect in order to shut it down.

However that won't shut down the chargers. And it is easy enough to reach behind the seat and turn it off, although not while driving. But I'm thinking just turning off the relay, or not turning it on, will be enough.

And if you didn't attach your lights to the bumper maybe I could do that. There's a brace back there and I could weld a bracket to that and just cut the hole and paint the edge w/o welding to it.

Scott - Not sure where you are asking about, but here's the bumper w/o my overlay. However there is a capped hole to the right in the picture on top. Are you thinking of placing lights there? There isn't a matching one on the other side, but that would be easy.

If the arrow on the right is the capped one, my first preference would be to drill a matching one and use that. Would allow all direction adjustments.

I know this is entirely personal but I wouldn't drill a hole in the warn with the exception of matching one up symmetrically.

Second choice would be mounting in the square hole with the left arrow on the face of the bumper. This would look a little odd aesthetically but again I am putting priority on not cutting the bumper.

 

[salans7]

If the arrow on the right is the capped one, my first preference would be to drill a matching one and use that. Would allow all direction adjustments.

I know this is entirely personal but I wouldn't drill a hole in the warn with the exception of matching one up symmetrically.

Second choice would be mounting in the square hole with the left arrow on the face of the bumper. This would look a little odd aesthetically but again I am putting priority on not cutting the bumper.

I have lights mounted on either side of my winch fairlead on the Ranger. I modified the brackets so that the lights aim slightly outwards, and this mounting position gives me 100% unobstructed light out in front of the truck. These two little lights are more than enough to light my way through the Ocala National Forest, but of course that's a matter of opinion.