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Big Blue's Transformation


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Thanks Jim, but is this the one? It says COIL:208/240.

Scott - Yes, it is looking better. But I'm still trying to work out the naming convention.

Jim - Meant to say I checked out Surplus City and can't find any contactors with 12v coils. They don't even have a pick for that in the filter, although I did try other options.

I think I've found the one I want to use. It is Jameco Part no.: 552462 and is $34.95.

30A_Contactor.thumb.jpg.2e7ad523d2147b573a81b92f79885fdd.jpg

But, it is going to be a tight fit where I want to put it, which is right above the inverter. I'd originally thought I wanted to have one project box that filled that area, but at the top of the caddy the box can only be about 2 1/2" "thick" or the seatback will hit it. So maybe I want a box that isn't as "tall" and can hold the contactor, fuse, DC power ports, etc. Still need to work on that plan.

Another_Pic_Of_The_Inverter_In_Place.thumb.jpg.4ef1af8da19886d306c5b671dd3b5819.jpg

Last, as you probably know from the other thread, I got the nutserts installed today. And then one of them spun. :nabble_smiley_cry: It took me a long time to cut the head off that bolt, a little at a time to keep from melting the caddy. So I tack-welded all three nutserts in.

With that done I got the caddy bolted down. But to get the caddy to sit at the right angle I had to cut the carpet back, leaving it just on the bolt-on step. That leaned the caddy back against the rear wall just where I wanted it.

Then I cut slots in the trim panel and screwed it onto the rear wall. And now the caddy is SOLID!

Caddy_Bolted_In__Trim_Panel_Is_On.thumb.jpg.3ba88eaade518c04277530a7f7fe9602.jpg

 

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Jim - Meant to say I checked out Surplus City and can't find any contactors with 12v coils. They don't even have a pick for that in the filter, although I did try other options.

I think I've found the one I want to use. It is Jameco Part no.: 552462 and is $34.95.

But, it is going to be a tight fit where I want to put it, which is right above the inverter. I'd originally thought I wanted to have one project box that filled that area, but at the top of the caddy the box can only be about 2 1/2" "thick" or the seatback will hit it. So maybe I want a box that isn't as "tall" and can hold the contactor, fuse, DC power ports, etc. Still need to work on that plan.

Last, as you probably know from the other thread, I got the nutserts installed today. And then one of them spun. :nabble_smiley_cry: It took me a long time to cut the head off that bolt, a little at a time to keep from melting the caddy. So I tack-welded all three nutserts in.

With that done I got the caddy bolted down. But to get the caddy to sit at the right angle I had to cut the carpet back, leaving it just on the bolt-on step. That leaned the caddy back against the rear wall just where I wanted it.

Then I cut slots in the trim panel and screwed it onto the rear wall. And now the caddy is SOLID!

No Gary, the ones I saw were 12V coil, which I thought unusual because most control circuitry is 24V.

But that was a parameter I plugged in to Google.

Otherwise look identical to the one you linked.

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George - Thanks. I think the storage unit is going to be wonderful.

Jim - I'll keep looking at Surplus City and see if I can find it. Thanks.

Jim - Can you do the search again, please? I've gone through hundreds of contactors at Surplus City and can't find any with 12v coils. And I've searched via Google and not found the one you found.

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Jim - Can you do the search again, please? I've gone through hundreds of contactors at Surplus City and can't find any with 12v coils. And I've searched via Google and not found the one you found.

I will go looking. :nabble_smiley_super:

And I have to admit that I had numerous tabs open when I replied to this thread.

I glanced at the rightmost tab while in the reply window, so I may be wrong about who.

 

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Thanks, but there's no huge rush.

Got the two metal trim pieces painted, the one that goes under the rear window and the slotted one to hold down the caddy.

Then I got out the #2 red wire I have and ran it from roughly where the factory aux battery relay is to to the inverter by the previously-discussed route. The route works well and it turns out that I have ~6" more wire than needed - for that run.

Here's a shot of the wire going under the add-on "step" so it can get to the other side of the truck where the inverter is. When done there'll be convolute over the wire for protection, but I don't have the right size at the moment.

Positve_Inverter_Lead_Going_Under_The_Step.thumb.jpg.f04548baf16c9f7842453a24b73f71a9.jpg

I needed to cut a slot in the caddy to allow both the hot and ground wires to come through. And, while that slot was over one of the holes in the add-on "step", I did have to cut a notch in the hole to ensure clearance. You can see where the wire comes up from the bottom of the caddy, which is where the slot is. And it is connected to the positive terminal of the inverter. (Any ideas on how to insulate that terminal?)

Inverter_Positive_Wire_Mocked_Up.thumb.jpg.2817907d9c2ac763e3fb84ca03bbdd6c.jpg

Also, I cut the end out of the caddy to give access to the outlets and switch, as well as to let air out when the fan is running. Man, cutting that plastic is slow work!

Caddy_Cut_Down_For_Outlet_Access.thumb.jpg.dc8bdb763b2a6f0ca95800419b8767ee.jpg

Things left to do on the inverter and caddy install include:

  • Making an opening in the passenger's end of the "step" to let the inverter's ground cable through

  • Finding the right contactor

  • Buying the project box, A/C outlet, fuse, and power points and making that system up

  • Buying the ground and additional positive cable I need as well as the Magnalugs and heat shrink

  • Adding a larger link, inc megafuse, between the aux battery and the factory aux battery relay
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Got the two metal trim pieces painted, the one that goes under the rear window and the slotted one to hold down the caddy.

Then I got out the #2 red wire I have and ran it from roughly where the factory aux battery relay is to to the inverter by the previously-discussed route. The route works well and it turns out that I have ~6" more wire than needed - for that run.

Here's a shot of the wire going under the add-on "step" so it can get to the other side of the truck where the inverter is. When done there'll be convolute over the wire for protection, but I don't have the right size at the moment.

I needed to cut a slot in the caddy to allow both the hot and ground wires to come through. And, while that slot was over one of the holes in the add-on "step", I did have to cut a notch in the hole to ensure clearance. You can see where the wire comes up from the bottom of the caddy, which is where the slot is. And it is connected to the positive terminal of the inverter. (Any ideas on how to insulate that terminal?)

Also, I cut the end out of the caddy to give access to the outlets and switch, as well as to let air out when the fan is running. Man, cutting that plastic is slow work!

Things left to do on the inverter and caddy install include:

  • Making an opening in the passenger's end of the "step" to let the inverter's ground cable through

  • Finding the right contactor

  • Buying the project box, A/C outlet, fuse, and power points and making that system up

  • Buying the ground and additional positive cable I need as well as the Magnalugs and heat shrink

  • Adding a larger link, inc megafuse, between the aux battery and the factory aux battery relay

Nice. Hard to see how it all lines up but those insulators I linked to in the Camano thread should cover that. May need to put the terminal on the other side of the post though to get the "hump" of the terminal more in line with the post so the insulator can be rotated 90 degrees from what is normal. With #2 the insulator may have enough play so it will cover as is though.

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