Big Blue's Transformation

[kramttocs]

I am pretty sure I have the package still (with the short ones in it).

I'll look when I get home. Yeah - they were in a dorman orange package on a spinner display.

2500! Goodness.

Looks like it was 963-005D.

Unfortunately I can't recall exactly how many of the long ones are in there out of the 6 and I never measured them like I should have. They were a 'need it now' thing or else I would have measured one pack and then bought that length in bulk since the packs added up quickly.

John mentioned Autozone which I never tried - maybe they have them by themselves? 🤞

[85lebaront2]

Looks like it was 963-005D.

Unfortunately I can't recall exactly how many of the long ones are in there out of the 6 and I never measured them like I should have. They were a 'need it now' thing or else I would have measured one pack and then bought that length in bulk since the packs added up quickly.

John mentioned Autozone which I never tried - maybe they have them by themselves? 🤞

I buy things like that from Clips and fasteners . com. If you have the Ford number you can google it, I found the inner fender retainers for my 2009 Flex that way, the bulk of them are called scrivets, 11 per side and I ordered a box of 25 and a box of 10 of another strange piece. They have a pretty good assortment of these items and sell in bulk packages.

[Gary Lewis]

Looks like it was 963-005D.

Unfortunately I can't recall exactly how many of the long ones are in there out of the 6 and I never measured them like I should have. They were a 'need it now' thing or else I would have measured one pack and then bought that length in bulk since the packs added up quickly.

John mentioned Autozone which I never tried - maybe they have them by themselves? 🤞

John - Thanks, but I found the correct Ford part number at Clips & Fasteners. Unfortunately the bottom of both of my door panels won't quite hold in like it should with them. However Scott had the same problem and found that the longer fastener in the Dorman 963-005D pack will work.

Scott - Thanks! I ordered a pack from Amazon as it is easy and we are doing absolutely everything we can do to say away from other people with COVID running rampant. And I'm not in a big hurry to get them.

Oddly enough Amazon and several others only show two pieces in the pack. They don't say there are only two, but they only picture two, even though we know there are six.

Anyway, when they come in I'll measure them and, should they work, we can go find a better, cheaper source.

[kramttocs]

John - Thanks, but I found the correct Ford part number at Clips & Fasteners. Unfortunately the bottom of both of my door panels won't quite hold in like it should with them. However Scott had the same problem and found that the longer fastener in the Dorman 963-005D pack will work.

Scott - Thanks! I ordered a pack from Amazon as it is easy and we are doing absolutely everything we can do to say away from other people with COVID running rampant. And I'm not in a big hurry to get them.

Oddly enough Amazon and several others only show two pieces in the pack. They don't say there are only two, but they only picture two, even though we know there are six.

Anyway, when they come in I'll measure them and, should they work, we can go find a better, cheaper source.

Good deal! Hopefully this will solve it for you as well.

[Gary Lewis]

Good deal! Hopefully this will solve it for you as well.

Thanks!

And by the way folks, I got the LED replacements for the #912 bulbs in today. As shown above they look like miniature ping pong paddles. And, as it turns out the bed light uses a 912, so I'll be stuffing one in there as well.

[Gary Lewis]

Thanks!

And by the way folks, I got the LED replacements for the #912 bulbs in today. As shown above they look like miniature ping pong paddles. And, as it turns out the bed light uses a 912, so I'll be stuffing one in there as well.

Well, so much for the plans of mice and men. The first thing I tried was to put one of the new ping pong-paddle LED #912 replacements in for the cargo light. No dice. The bulb in the cargo light goes in straight and the replacement expects to be used at right angles to that, like up in a dome light - which is what I bought them for. So I'll have to look for an LED replacement for that one.

The second plan was to paint the dash cover. I'd glued it on Saturday and waited until today to take the straps off. Turns out that this new Coverlay cover goes far enough into the defrost vents that the screws that hold the pad to the cab need to go through the cover. But mine wasn't glued down well enough to do that. So I did remedial gluing by squirting more of the Permatex RTV adhesive in there and have it well and truly "wrapped". Maybe tomorrow I'll paint?

Meanwhile I'll work on the Highliner. Going to mark where it hits so I know where to run wires and see about fishing wires up the A-pillar. And, with the cargo light out I'll see about drilling the roof and installing the BNC connector for the GRMS antenna.

[Gary Lewis]

Well, so much for the plans of mice and men. The first thing I tried was to put one of the new ping pong-paddle LED #912 replacements in for the cargo light. No dice. The bulb in the cargo light goes in straight and the replacement expects to be used at right angles to that, like up in a dome light - which is what I bought them for. So I'll have to look for an LED replacement for that one.

The second plan was to paint the dash cover. I'd glued it on Saturday and waited until today to take the straps off. Turns out that this new Coverlay cover goes far enough into the defrost vents that the screws that hold the pad to the cab need to go through the cover. But mine wasn't glued down well enough to do that. So I did remedial gluing by squirting more of the Permatex RTV adhesive in there and have it well and truly "wrapped". Maybe tomorrow I'll paint?

Meanwhile I'll work on the Highliner. Going to mark where it hits so I know where to run wires and see about fishing wires up the A-pillar. And, with the cargo light out I'll see about drilling the roof and installing the BNC connector for the GRMS antenna.

Ok, question time.

First, to everyone: Why feed power for the GMRS radio up? Why not use the constant power on the LG/Y wire that goes to the map lights, as shown in the pic below? That circuit is fused 15 amps, but the radio's own wiring has a 3A fuse in it. And all that circuit serves are the courtesy lights, dome light, cargo light, and warning buzzer.

It would be so easy to use the original dome light wires to pick up constant power for the radio, switched power for the dome light, and a ground with a screw into the roof. Then I'll bring the speaker wires up the B-pillar 'cause the speakers are to the rear and it'll be easy.

Thoughts, please.

Now for Rob: Did your center speakers in the Highliner hit the roof? Mine do, as shown below.

Also, how did you use the 4x4x2" blocks of foam that are called "baffles"? Directly behind the speakers? Did they tend to push the Highliner down due to their thickness?

I know that when the 1/2" piece of foam is put in above the Highliner that it will bring it down a bit. Does that make the speakers clear?

[ArdWrknTrk]

Ok, question time.

First, to everyone: Why feed power for the GMRS radio up? Why not use the constant power on the LG/Y wire that goes to the map lights, as shown in the pic below? That circuit is fused 15 amps, but the radio's own wiring has a 3A fuse in it. And all that circuit serves are the courtesy lights, dome light, cargo light, and warning buzzer.

It would be so easy to use the original dome light wires to pick up constant power for the radio, switched power for the dome light, and a ground with a screw into the roof. Then I'll bring the speaker wires up the B-pillar 'cause the speakers are to the rear and it'll be easy.

Thoughts, please.

Now for Rob: Did your center speakers in the Highliner hit the roof? Mine do, as shown below.

Also, how did you use the 4x4x2" blocks of foam that are called "baffles"? Directly behind the speakers? Did they tend to push the Highliner down due to their thickness?

I know that when the 1/2" piece of foam is put in above the Highliner that it will bring it down a bit. Does that make the speakers clear?

Do your speakers not come with mounting collars to space them out?

[kramttocs]

Ok, question time.

First, to everyone: Why feed power for the GMRS radio up? Why not use the constant power on the LG/Y wire that goes to the map lights, as shown in the pic below? That circuit is fused 15 amps, but the radio's own wiring has a 3A fuse in it. And all that circuit serves are the courtesy lights, dome light, cargo light, and warning buzzer.

It would be so easy to use the original dome light wires to pick up constant power for the radio, switched power for the dome light, and a ground with a screw into the roof. Then I'll bring the speaker wires up the B-pillar 'cause the speakers are to the rear and it'll be easy.

Thoughts, please.

Now for Rob: Did your center speakers in the Highliner hit the roof? Mine do, as shown below.

Also, how did you use the 4x4x2" blocks of foam that are called "baffles"? Directly behind the speakers? Did they tend to push the Highliner down due to their thickness?

I know that when the 1/2" piece of foam is put in above the Highliner that it will bring it down a bit. Does that make the speakers clear?

Functionally I don't see a reason not to use the LG/Y circuit.

Just my opinion, or maybe preference, but I'd keep them separate. I could say it comes down to separating add-ons from factory, future troubleshooting, or keeping vastly different things (lights-radio) off the same circuit....but really it's preference

[Gary Lewis]

Do your speakers not come with mounting collars to space them out?

Nope. Just grilles. The picture they sent is shown below.

I will have to space the grilles ~1/8" away from the Alpine speakers due to their piezo tweeters, but that's not a biggee.

I'm wondering if this isn't a good use of true speaker baffles instead of those huge 4x4x2" foam blocks? At least they would ensure no contact between the magnet and the roof, thereby eliminating any rattles.