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Big Blue's Transformation


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Bill - I was right there with you and was thinking the same when I read it (that's how I did my gps antenna) but then I remembered BB doesn't have clearance lights so it would require fishing a wire up/down. Which on a supercab isn't bad as you have fairly easy access to the top of the A pillar and across the cab via a 'shelf'. Not sure about crewcabs. With a reg cab though you'd had to make use of the visor hole and then find a way to get it to the newly drilled hold in the center. I can see why they recommend the B pillar :nabble_smiley_happy:

I put the wires for my bed lights and microphone up the A pillar.

Used a Unibit to drill big holes that aren't too deep.

Warning! Be sure to deburr those holes on the back side.

They are sharp as a razor!

I have an 'audio snake', basically a length of poly covered 1/8 aircraft cable with a bullet end ferrule that has a hole crosswise through it.

It's really handy for pushing through channels and across things like headliners in mommy vans for running the camera wires all the way back to the hatch.

Worked great for getting my under hood LED's through the hood bracing.

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I put the wires for my bed lights and microphone up the A pillar.

Used a Unibit to drill big holes that aren't too deep.

Warning! Be sure to deburr those holes on the back side.

They are sharp as a razor!

I have an 'audio snake', basically a length of poly covered 1/8 aircraft cable with a bullet end ferrule that has a hole crosswise through it.

It's really handy for pushing through channels and across things like headliners in mommy vans for running the camera wires all the way back to the hatch.

Worked great for getting my under hood LED's through the hood bracing.

They are very handy! I got mine from harbor freight a few years ago. "50 Ft. Nylon Fish Tape"

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They are very handy! I got mine from harbor freight a few years ago. "50 Ft. Nylon Fish Tape"

Ok guys, so it is possible to come up the A-pillar and across the header?

Jim - Tell me more about where you drilled the holes? Did you just drill several across the header?

I don't have a unibit, but this may be the time as I also have to drill through the inner roof panel in the rear to get access to the outer panel so I can mount the weatherproof BNC connector, which came in today.

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Ok guys, so it is possible to come up the A-pillar and across the header?

Jim - Tell me more about where you drilled the holes? Did you just drill several across the header?

I don't have a unibit, but this may be the time as I also have to drill through the inner roof panel in the rear to get access to the outer panel so I can mount the weatherproof BNC connector, which came in today.

I would(and did) go up the B-pillar, super easy. The cab light wire is perfect to pull the new wires through. Are you trying to keep the wires as short as possible?

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I would(and did) go up the B-pillar, super easy. The cab light wire is perfect to pull the new wires through. Are you trying to keep the wires as short as possible?

Yes, the A-pillar would keep the wires shorter. Just thinking about how best to do it.

You ran down the threshold with the other wires, then up back w/the dome light wires?

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They are very handy! I got mine from harbor freight a few years ago. "50 Ft. Nylon Fish Tape"

I also have a set of luminous 'fish sticks' which are 3 5' fiberglass wands that couple together.

They work well when you have to push through insulation batts in a wall bay.

IMG_20201113_141612.thumb.jpg.cda8b3808d31aef59ab9e8e6a11813cd.jpg

I use a step drill like this.

It's okay to get a cheap one at Horrid Fate if you're not going to make a living with it.

True Unibit's from Greenlee or Klein are $50 and up in 1 3/4"

IMG_20201113_141523.thumb.jpg.ca72ae678fa0dd0eeb025104524f3e65.jpg

If it's too long not to hit exterior sheet metal you can start with a smaller one and cut a few steps off the point of the big one in a set. (As long as they overlap)

That's the way mine is in my wire harness/install kit.

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I also have a set of luminous 'fish sticks' which are 3 5' fiberglass wands that couple together.

They work well when you have to push through insulation batts in a wall bay.

I use a step drill like this.

It's okay to get a cheap one at Horrid Fate if you're not going to make a living with it.

True Unibit's from Greenlee or Klein are $50 and up in 1 3/4"

If it's too long not to hit exterior sheet metal you can start with a smaller one and cut a few steps off the point of the big one in a set. (As long as they overlap)

That's the way mine is in my wire harness/install kit.

I'm running recessed LED's today, so that one is in my electrical box for making holes in panels.

I don't usually bother to bring my knockout punches.

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I'm running recessed LED's today, so that one is in my electrical box for making holes in panels.

I don't usually bother to bring my knockout punches.

Ok, I think I'm following. I found a gap in the header I wasn't aware of 'cause it isn't easily seen from the driver's seat. But it shows in this pic using a mirror. That's where I run the wires after they come up the A-pillar?

Gap_In_Windhield_Header.thumb.jpg.9efcab917660888e2f7be998f7861789.jpg

And then you are saying I'd cut into the header in the middle to let me get the wires up above the Highliner. Right?

Windshield_Header.thumb.jpg.5d8fb54124def07260ffba4e6eb42966.jpg

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Ok, I think I'm following. I found a gap in the header I wasn't aware of 'cause it isn't easily seen from the driver's seat. But it shows in this pic using a mirror. That's where I run the wires after they come up the A-pillar?

And then you are saying I'd cut into the header in the middle to let me get the wires up above the Highliner. Right?

If going with the A pillar I'd snake from the visor hole down and pull the wires up through the visor hole. Then cut the hole in the center and run the fish from the visor hole to the center hole and throw a grommet in the center hole. Don't forget to add plenty of patience :nabble_smiley_grin:

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If going with the A pillar I'd snake from the visor hole down and pull the wires up through the visor hole. Then cut the hole in the center and run the fish from the visor hole to the center hole and throw a grommet in the center hole. Don't forget to add plenty of patience :nabble_smiley_grin:

LOL! I'll need the patience, for sure. But I've already reached through the hole in the Highliner for wires coming into the radio pocket and marked the inner panel of the roof. And there's ~1" of space between the Highliner and the inner panel at that point, so if I put a hole in the inner panel there it'll be easy to drop the radio power and ground wires into the pocket but run the speaker wires on back to the speakers.

And, I got the weatherproof BNC connectors in today so need to figure out where the cab-mounted one will go and then cut through the inner panel there and drill the outer panel to take the connector. And, put grommets on all of those openings.

As for fishing the wires, I'll take your lead on how to do that, although I don't have one of those fish tapes. But I'll bet I can get there as I've done this kind of thing a few times.

Hmmm, if I go this way, meaning up the A-pillar, then I can put the kick panel and B-pillar trim on. Just not the A-pillar trim.

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