Big Blue's Transformation

[Gary Lewis]

I think I'd go with option 1.

Cut the center part out of the bracket.

Make the speaker holes in the L shaped bracket, looking just like the dash (grid included)

Make the overall size of the speaker design the size needed so that four button head bolts visually fit into the pattern and bolt the feet in.

Not having had the L bracket in hand, this is assuming it is ridgid enough.

Well guys, thanks for the responses. You got me looking more closely and I found something interesting. Here's a closeup of the speaker. Yup, the outside row of holes are closed off.

And that changes things. The distance across the open holes is 1.6", which will leave a lot more of the bracket than I thought it would. In fact, this pic attempts to show where the limits of the hole would be to clear the speaker holes. And that leaves more of the .062" metal of the bracket than I expected.

So I'm thinking I'll use Jim's hole saw idea and put a 1.5" hole there. Then stuff a piece of foam between the radio and the bracket and but it out to the same dimension so there's little chance of the sound bouncing around.

Scott - I like the idea of button-head screws, and I have plenty of them in stainless 1/4-20. So I could put them where indicated and put nuts on top. (Remember this is a bottom view, meaning what the L-shaped piece will go up against.

But I got lost in your suggestion on the pattern. Are you suggesting a rectangular pattern instead of the round pattern of the radio? That would be easier as I can set it up on the mill and move the X and Y in whatever increments. And it won't really matter if some of the holes are covered by the black bracket as you won't be able to tell. Right?

[Gary Lewis]

Well guys, thanks for the responses. You got me looking more closely and I found something interesting. Here's a closeup of the speaker. Yup, the outside row of holes are closed off.

And that changes things. The distance across the open holes is 1.6", which will leave a lot more of the bracket than I thought it would. In fact, this pic attempts to show where the limits of the hole would be to clear the speaker holes. And that leaves more of the .062" metal of the bracket than I expected.

So I'm thinking I'll use Jim's hole saw idea and put a 1.5" hole there. Then stuff a piece of foam between the radio and the bracket and but it out to the same dimension so there's little chance of the sound bouncing around.

Scott - I like the idea of button-head screws, and I have plenty of them in stainless 1/4-20. So I could put them where indicated and put nuts on top. (Remember this is a bottom view, meaning what the L-shaped piece will go up against.

But I got lost in your suggestion on the pattern. Are you suggesting a rectangular pattern instead of the round pattern of the radio? That would be easier as I can set it up on the mill and move the X and Y in whatever increments. And it won't really matter if some of the holes are covered by the black bracket as you won't be able to tell. Right?

Actually, I think four 1/4-20 screws is overkill. Maybe it should look like this:

[kramttocs]

Well guys, thanks for the responses. You got me looking more closely and I found something interesting. Here's a closeup of the speaker. Yup, the outside row of holes are closed off.

And that changes things. The distance across the open holes is 1.6", which will leave a lot more of the bracket than I thought it would. In fact, this pic attempts to show where the limits of the hole would be to clear the speaker holes. And that leaves more of the .062" metal of the bracket than I expected.

So I'm thinking I'll use Jim's hole saw idea and put a 1.5" hole there. Then stuff a piece of foam between the radio and the bracket and but it out to the same dimension so there's little chance of the sound bouncing around.

Scott - I like the idea of button-head screws, and I have plenty of them in stainless 1/4-20. So I could put them where indicated and put nuts on top. (Remember this is a bottom view, meaning what the L-shaped piece will go up against.

But I got lost in your suggestion on the pattern. Are you suggesting a rectangular pattern instead of the round pattern of the radio? That would be easier as I can set it up on the mill and move the X and Y in whatever increments. And it won't really matter if some of the holes are covered by the black bracket as you won't be able to tell. Right?

You got it. That's really just a style preference though but if it's easier...

Good deal on being able to cut the hole but still have the integrity of the bracket

[ArdWrknTrk]

Well guys, thanks for the responses. You got me looking more closely and I found something interesting. Here's a closeup of the speaker. Yup, the outside row of holes are closed off.

And that changes things. The distance across the open holes is 1.6", which will leave a lot more of the bracket than I thought it would. In fact, this pic attempts to show where the limits of the hole would be to clear the speaker holes. And that leaves more of the .062" metal of the bracket than I expected.

So I'm thinking I'll use Jim's hole saw idea and put a 1.5" hole there. Then stuff a piece of foam between the radio and the bracket and but it out to the same dimension so there's little chance of the sound bouncing around.

Scott - I like the idea of button-head screws, and I have plenty of them in stainless 1/4-20. So I could put them where indicated and put nuts on top. (Remember this is a bottom view, meaning what the L-shaped piece will go up against.

But I got lost in your suggestion on the pattern. Are you suggesting a rectangular pattern instead of the round pattern of the radio? That would be easier as I can set it up on the mill and move the X and Y in whatever increments. And it won't really matter if some of the holes are covered by the black bracket as you won't be able to tell. Right?

How wide is the metal mounting cradle, Gary?

Drilling hole patterns like that is one of those jobs that would be SO much easier with a CNC router or mill.

You could even get creative and drill the Ford script inside an oval, or something...

[kramttocs]

Actually, I think four 1/4-20 screws is overkill. Maybe it should look like this:

I'd stick with the four myself. Could go with m5 and drop the size a bit if needed.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Actually, I think four 1/4-20 screws is overkill. Maybe it should look like this:

You might want to compress the foam rubber a bit and leave it long front and rear.

That would cut back on any tendency of the radio to rock with the motion of the truck.

If it were me, I think I'd forget the screws (or any exposed fasteners) and glue the bracket to the plastic with black epoxy.

Permatex 84145 Permapoxy Black Plastic Weld - 0.84 fl. oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00THUUVSU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_aQiRFbSD8YXKV?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

[Gary Lewis]

You might want to compress the foam rubber a bit and leave it long front and rear.

That would cut back on any tendency of the radio to rock with the motion of the truck.

If it were me, I think I'd forget the screws (or any exposed fasteners) and glue the bracket to the plastic with black epoxy.

Permatex 84145 Permapoxy Black Plastic Weld - 0.84 fl. oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00THUUVSU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_aQiRFbSD8YXKV?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Jim - The bracket is 4 3/4" wide and 2 1/4" front/rear. But why do you ask?

On the epoxy vs screws, yes it would do away with any exposed fasteners. But once it is done it is done, there's no going back. However, if I use screws I could mount something else there later if I wanted to.

And I'd have some room for adjusting things. Remember that I have to shim the radio up to get it to come through the middle of the face. So I'm thinking I'll be using some aluminum and will probably make it longer fore/aft than the bracket so it'll provide more rigidity to the plastic. But the plastic is ~.093" so it is plenty rigid already.

I could easily powder coat the screws, and probably will the bracket where I cut it, so they could be black and unobtrusive.

Scott - I could use the flanged button head screw style on the right but match the size of the screws that hold the L-shaped piece to the Highliner, shown on the left. McMaster Carr has the flanged button head screws from M3 x .5 up and from 4-40 up, so all I have to do is to figure out what those screws are and order the right size screws & nuts. And I don't think the fancy vinyl washer is needed if using the flanged head.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Jim - The bracket is 4 3/4" wide and 2 1/4" front/rear. But why do you ask?

On the epoxy vs screws, yes it would do away with any exposed fasteners. But once it is done it is done, there's no going back. However, if I use screws I could mount something else there later if I wanted to.

And I'd have some room for adjusting things. Remember that I have to shim the radio up to get it to come through the middle of the face. So I'm thinking I'll be using some aluminum and will probably make it longer fore/aft than the bracket so it'll provide more rigidity to the plastic. But the plastic is ~.093" so it is plenty rigid already.

I could easily powder coat the screws, and probably will the bracket where I cut it, so they could be black and unobtrusive.

Scott - I could use the flanged button head screw style on the right but match the size of the screws that hold the L-shaped piece to the Highliner, shown on the left. McMaster Carr has the flanged button head screws from M3 x .5 up and from 4-40 up, so all I have to do is to figure out what those screws are and order the right size screws & nuts. And I don't think the fancy vinyl washer is needed if using the flanged head.

~10mm of meat front and rear seems enough to keep it together.

It is certainly going to be easier than trying to line up two separate pieces.

That looks like truss head on the right.

Dome-washer head is more semispherical.

I'd be tempted to use the decorative black oval head screws you can get in the Hillman or Midwest drawers with NO washer.

Of course, that brings your layout to the next level.

[Gary Lewis]

~10mm of meat front and rear seems enough to keep it together.

It is certainly going to be easier than trying to line up two separate pieces.

That looks like truss head on the right.

Dome-washer head is more semispherical.

I'd be tempted to use the decorative black oval head screws you can get in the Hillman or Midwest drawers with NO washer.

Of course, that brings your layout to the next level.

Yes, it'll be much easier lining things up when working with one piece rather than two.

I'm not sold on the "decorative black oval head screws". But if I used Ford screws they'd match those used on the rest of the truck.

I want to replace the machine screws that go into the plastic "rivnuts" that holds the L-shaped piece to the Highliner to make all the screws the same. I'm not sure that the rivnuts will take the sheet metal style screws, but will check the diameters today.

And, I'd have to countersink the holes to get the heads to recess, but worry that the bouncing of the truck would put a lot of force on those two screws that hold the L-shaped piece to the Highliner. They are carrying the weight of the radio, and while it isn't much it gives me pause.

But I assume you work with that style of screw all the time. Do they hold in thin material? Is .093" plastic "thin"?

[Gary Lewis]

Yes, it'll be much easier lining things up when working with one piece rather than two.

I'm not sold on the "decorative black oval head screws". But if I used Ford screws they'd match those used on the rest of the truck.

I want to replace the machine screws that go into the plastic "rivnuts" that holds the L-shaped piece to the Highliner to make all the screws the same. I'm not sure that the rivnuts will take the sheet metal style screws, but will check the diameters today.

And, I'd have to countersink the holes to get the heads to recess, but worry that the bouncing of the truck would put a lot of force on those two screws that hold the L-shaped piece to the Highliner. They are carrying the weight of the radio, and while it isn't much it gives me pause.

But I assume you work with that style of screw all the time. Do they hold in thin material? Is .093" plastic "thin"?

Well, a sheet metal screw into the "rivnut" isn't going to work as they are threaded. And I can see how Rob was having trouble with them spinning as they sure are easy to remove. May put them back with a dab of hot-melt.

Anyway, I think I'll find out what thread they are and order the matching flanged button-head or truss-head screws to match. Won't match the rest of the truck, but at least all of the ones in the Highliner will match. And I won't have to countersink the holes. Plus, I won't worry about the bouncing pulling the screw heads through the plastic.