Gary Lewis Posted October 29, 2020 Author Share Posted October 29, 2020 David - Do you remember the conversation about the lock linkage? Well, I'd bent it some but that hadn't fixed the problem. But today as I was cleaning and installing sound deadener I found the issue - the linkage is rubbing the outer skin of the door. That's an easy fix, but it'll make a huge difference as it has been a pain to have to get in on the driver's side and cross over to open the passenger's door for Janey - and at times even that wasn't always quickly successful. http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n77859/Passenger_s_Door_Lock_Link_Rubbing.jpg Yes, a not uncommon problem after someone tries to manhandle the door lock without disconnecting the linkage. What is your plan regarding getting the linkage away from the outer door skin? Easy peasy. With both door panels off I'll pull both the driver's and passenger's door links and make the passenger's side a mirror image of the driver's side. At least I think that'll work since the driver's side works perfectly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1986F150Six Posted October 29, 2020 Share Posted October 29, 2020 Easy peasy. With both door panels off I'll pull both the driver's and passenger's door links and make the passenger's side a mirror image of the driver's side. At least I think that'll work since the driver's side works perfectly. Ford used many bends, didn't they? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted October 29, 2020 Author Share Posted October 29, 2020 Ford used many bends, didn't they? Yes, LOTS OF BENDS! Boy, did I mis-speak. "Easy peasy" was accurate for re-bending the right link, shown below with the left one, before and after. But getting them out, and especially getting them back in is anything BUT easy peasy. Getting the latch back in with all four links connected is similar to what I think wrestling an octopus would be like. There were arms everywhere! But, I got the passenger's side back in - and it still does the same thing!!!! Gave up for the day and will see what I can figure out tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted October 29, 2020 Share Posted October 29, 2020 Yes, LOTS OF BENDS! Boy, did I mis-speak. "Easy peasy" was accurate for re-bending the right link, shown below with the left one, before and after. But getting them out, and especially getting them back in is anything BUT easy peasy. Getting the latch back in with all four links connected is similar to what I think wrestling an octopus would be like. There were arms everywhere! But, I got the passenger's side back in - and it still does the same thing!!!! Gave up for the day and will see what I can figure out tomorrow. I notice the lengths are different in your 'finished' photo. For what seems like a mangled piece of wire, all these things are critical -spatially- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted October 29, 2020 Author Share Posted October 29, 2020 I notice the lengths are different in your 'finished' photo. For what seems like a mangled piece of wire, all these things are critical -spatially- Yes, they are a bit different. But I can't, at this point, say what is causing the problem. Perhaps this link is it? The issue is the you can't always unlock the door, either with the key or with the pin on top of the door. When that happens you just can't move that linkage far enough. So it may not be that link. I'll spend time tomorrow working through the setup and see if I can figure it out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted October 30, 2020 Author Share Posted October 30, 2020 Yes, they are a bit different. But I can't, at this point, say what is causing the problem. Perhaps this link is it?The issue is the you can't always unlock the door, either with the key or with the pin on top of the door. When that happens you just can't move that linkage far enough. So it may not be that link.I'll spend time tomorrow working through the setup and see if I can figure it out. Ok, several things to report. First, I got 2 lbs of 3M Strip Calk on order. (Yes, that's how they spell it.) I'll use that to put the vapor seal on the doors when the time comes. Second, I spent quite a bit of time looking for the right "christmas trees" for the door panels. The master parts catalog doesn't seem to show them for our trucks, or at least I can't find them. But it does show them for the little Bronco and the Aerostar. And the part number is N801925-S. Clips & Fasteners has them as part PAS1575-25 and says they are N801925-S. But oddly enough they say they are for 1981 and later trucks, as shown below:  Door Panel Retainers Ford Bottom Head Diameter 25/32" Top Head Diameter 1/2" Stem Diameter 5/16" Stem Length 5/8" Ford # N801925-S 1981- 25 Per Package Package Price: $3.99  So for that price I ordered two sets as it takes about 25 for each door when you include the map pockets. Then I heated and rolled the sound deadening I put on yesterday and then added the 2nd layer across the middle of the door. With that done I made the mirror brace and used the new process, meaning that I screwed it down on one of the screws and then tapped the other through the rivnut. That seemed to work pretty well. And then I turned to the door lock problem. After playing with it a bit I realized that it worked fine with the window up, but not with the window down. So I started looking at all the linkage as I moved the window and discovered that the plastic retainer for the link from the outside door handle's push button was touching the back side of the rear channel for the window. So I moved the window channel and the door handle away from each other as far as they'd go. And I lubed the back of the channel, and it now works nicely.    And with that, I think we are ready for a trip tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kramttocs Posted October 30, 2020 Share Posted October 30, 2020 Ok, several things to report. First, I got 2 lbs of 3M Strip Calk on order. (Yes, that's how they spell it.) I'll use that to put the vapor seal on the doors when the time comes. Second, I spent quite a bit of time looking for the right "christmas trees" for the door panels. The master parts catalog doesn't seem to show them for our trucks, or at least I can't find them. But it does show them for the little Bronco and the Aerostar. And the part number is N801925-S. Clips & Fasteners has them as part PAS1575-25 and says they are N801925-S. But oddly enough they say they are for 1981 and later trucks, as shown below:  Door Panel Retainers Ford Bottom Head Diameter 25/32" Top Head Diameter 1/2" Stem Diameter 5/16" Stem Length 5/8" Ford # N801925-S 1981- 25 Per Package Package Price: $3.99  So for that price I ordered two sets as it takes about 25 for each door when you include the map pockets. Then I heated and rolled the sound deadening I put on yesterday and then added the 2nd layer across the middle of the door. With that done I made the mirror brace and used the new process, meaning that I screwed it down on one of the screws and then tapped the other through the rivnut. That seemed to work pretty well. And then I turned to the door lock problem. After playing with it a bit I realized that it worked fine with the window up, but not with the window down. So I started looking at all the linkage as I moved the window and discovered that the plastic retainer for the link from the outside door handle's push button was touching the back side of the rear channel for the window. So I moved the window channel and the door handle away from each other as far as they'd go. And I lubed the back of the channel, and it now works nicely.    And with that, I think we are ready for a trip tomorrow. That strip caulk is great. No doubt identical to the Eastwood kind I used and what is really nice is it's reusability . Seems like the second you get it buttoned up, you find you need to get back in there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted October 30, 2020 Author Share Posted October 30, 2020 That strip caulk is great. No doubt identical to the Eastwood kind I used and what is really nice is it's reusability . Seems like the second you get it buttoned up, you find you need to get back in there. Amazon has both the Eastwood and the 3M. The Eastwood is $21.99 and would get to me between Nov 9th and 17th if ordered now, Oct 30th.. The 3M is $23.38 and would get to me Nov 1st if ordered today. If Eastwood wants to sell to me they are going to have to dramatically step up their delivery times. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kramttocs Posted October 31, 2020 Share Posted October 31, 2020 Amazon has both the Eastwood and the 3M. The Eastwood is $21.99 and would get to me between Nov 9th and 17th if ordered now, Oct 30th.. The 3M is $23.38 and would get to me Nov 1st if ordered today. If Eastwood wants to sell to me they are going to have to dramatically step up their delivery times. I was just meaning that I am sure it will perform the same (Eastwood's may be from 3M?) and I was impressed with it when I used it on my doors. Easy to stick on there, holds really well, and not messy at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted October 31, 2020 Author Share Posted October 31, 2020 I was just meaning that I am sure it will perform the same (Eastwood's may be from 3M?) and I was impressed with it when I used it on my doors. Easy to stick on there, holds really well, and not messy at all. Sorry - You hit a sore spot. Eastwood was my go-to place when we lived in PA as they were only 20 miles away. Then when they moved I'd still go up there even though they were twice as far. Then I moved and still bought from them, but their shipping was very slow. Then came Amazon and quick delivery, meaning it went out the door quickly and appeared a couple of days later. And now I get an Amazon delivery sometimes in 12 hours and usually in 18 hours. But Eastwood is still slow, even if you buy through Amazon, and in spite of their statement online and in their advertising a year or so ago of turning their shipping issue around. And in spite of a telephone call I had with them wherein they vowed to change. But you are right, the Eastwood strip caulk is probably 3M's strip calk. Eastwood tells you how many feet of caulk you get, and 3M tells you how heavy the box is - almost like Eastwood doesn't want you to be able to compare. But Eastwood doesn't make anything, so someone makes it for them and potentially it is 3M. And everything I've read says that theirs and 3M's is STICKY! And reusable. And excellent for holding vapor barriers down, which is one of the next steps on the truck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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