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Big Blue's Transformation


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I think the bulkhead connector will be fine if the impedance doesn't change.

I've been using a tiny coax bulkhead connector to power my bed lights for years without any leaks or other downsides.

It was passing ~25W with the old lights.

Dane - You got it. :nabble_smiley_wink:

Jim - I agree that the bulkhead connector will be fine. It is more the length of the lead-in that I'm questioning. It might be tuned to the length of the whip. But they specifically said the lead-in is 6 meters long and 462 Mhz is .65 meters, so I don't think so. However, I'll call on Monday to find out.

And, come to think of it, I wouldn't have to use SO/PL connectors. I could go to the BNC connectors, which would increase the probability of sealing on the curved surface of the cab. I haven't taken a look at the truck since I came up with this plan, but will do in a bit....

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Dane - You got it. :nabble_smiley_wink:

Jim - I agree that the bulkhead connector will be fine. It is more the length of the lead-in that I'm questioning. It might be tuned to the length of the whip. But they specifically said the lead-in is 6 meters long and 462 Mhz is .65 meters, so I don't think so. However, I'll call on Monday to find out.

And, come to think of it, I wouldn't have to use SO/PL connectors. I could go to the BNC connectors, which would increase the probability of sealing on the curved surface of the cab. I haven't taken a look at the truck since I came up with this plan, but will do in a bit....

I'm using SMA, its smaller footprint doesn't need to conform very much.

BNC is popular. You can even get it gold plated and never worry about corrosion.

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I'm using SMA, its smaller footprint doesn't need to conform very much.

BNC is popular. You can even get it gold plated and never worry about corrosion.

Yes, BNC is very popular. I was blown away when I saw the SO on the Midland radio. For something that small I wonder why they used the connector we used on big ham gear?

I associate RG8 or RG9 with the SO/PL connectors. But surely they are using RG59 on the antenna, and that I've always seen that used with the BNC connectors.

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Yes, BNC is very popular. I was blown away when I saw the SO on the Midland radio. For something that small I wonder why they used the connector we used on big ham gear?

I associate RG8 or RG9 with the SO/PL connectors. But surely they are using RG59 on the antenna, and that I've always seen that used with the BNC connectors.

All the Midland FRS/GMRS radios are 50ohms on the antenna connection. For a run that short, any of the usual 50ohm cables will work. I'm not a fan of RG58, but it gets plenty of use. Your usual favorite ham sources can provide mounts and FRS/GMRS tuned UHF antennas.

Getting a GMRS license is just a form and $70 for 10 years. One license covers a family. I don't know if there are GMRS repeaters that cover the trails you're interested in. The license is cheap enough I got one just to be safe.

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Yes, BNC is very popular. I was blown away when I saw the SO on the Midland radio. For something that small I wonder why they used the connector we used on big ham gear?

I associate RG8 or RG9 with the SO/PL connectors. But surely they are using RG59 on the antenna, and that I've always seen that used with the BNC connectors.

All the Midland FRS/GMRS radios are 50ohms on the antenna connection. For a run that short, any of the usual 50ohm cables will work. I'm not a fan of RG58, but it gets plenty of use. Your usual favorite ham sources can provide mounts and FRS/GMRS tuned UHF antennas.

Getting a GMRS license is just a form and $70 for 10 years. One license covers a family. I don't know if there are GMRS repeaters that cover the trails you're interested in. The license is cheap enough I got one just to be safe.

Thanks. I appreciate the tips.

I did look today and the back of the cab, close to the bed light, is pretty flat, so it shouldn't be a problem to put a connector there. However the inside panel of the roof curves a lot right there, so a hole will need to be cut in it to install the connector.

And, on a different subject, this came in today. Maybe I'll get to install it tomorrow, but it is pretty!

Radiator_Arrived.jpg.705b4deac85bbdab5ddedb23c07ed6f9.jpg

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Thanks. I appreciate the tips.

I did look today and the back of the cab, close to the bed light, is pretty flat, so it shouldn't be a problem to put a connector there. However the inside panel of the roof curves a lot right there, so a hole will need to be cut in it to install the connector.

And, on a different subject, this came in today. Maybe I'll get to install it tomorrow, but it is pretty!

I am NOT a happy camper! Got the brand new Champion radiator installed, pulled the cap and started to fill it up, and found this:

New_Champion_Radiator_Gap_On_Shroud.thumb.jpg.4cd9b373fbb21b8b75eb2725f43e404b.jpg

You probably think my concern is with the gap 'tween the shroud and the radiator, right? Then you missed "it". Try this pic instead:

Brand_New_Champion_Filler_Neck.thumb.jpg.63bffc69643227dda7e71a7f2cf22465.jpg

Yep, the sealing surface is RUINED! I'm now wondering if I really want a Champion. :nabble_smiley_cry:

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I am NOT a happy camper! Got the brand new Champion radiator installed, pulled the cap and started to fill it up, and found this:

You probably think my concern is with the gap 'tween the shroud and the radiator, right? Then you missed "it". Try this pic instead:

Yep, the sealing surface is RUINED! I'm now wondering if I really want a Champion. :nabble_smiley_cry:

Gary, the sealing surface for the gasket on the cap spring seals against the face down inside the neck. Everything above that goes to overflow anyway.

Id take a sharpening stone and wd40 as a lubricant to that sealing surface and work it all flat again. I dont see any major issues.

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Gary, the sealing surface for the gasket on the cap spring seals against the face down inside the neck. Everything above that goes to overflow anyway.

Id take a sharpening stone and wd40 as a lubricant to that sealing surface and work it all flat again. I dont see any major issues.

Ray - Having a good seal to the overflow is important as that's how the system keeps full. So I want that $300 radiator to be "right". However, if I can fix it easily enough I may do it. But I'm worried that I'll get far enough into fixing it and learn that won't work and then they won't take it back.

I'll take a look at it closely in a bit....

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Ray - Having a good seal to the overflow is important as that's how the system keeps full. So I want that $300 radiator to be "right". However, if I can fix it easily enough I may do it. But I'm worried that I'll get far enough into fixing it and learn that won't work and then they won't take it back.

I'll take a look at it closely in a bit....

That’s what would bug me!

 

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Ray - Having a good seal to the overflow is important as that's how the system keeps full. So I want that $300 radiator to be "right". However, if I can fix it easily enough I may do it. But I'm worried that I'll get far enough into fixing it and learn that won't work and then they won't take it back.

I'll take a look at it closely in a bit....

Oh man. That's a definite unexpected inconvenience.

It's a tough call - my first thought was with Ray in that it could be fixed but don't forget that the warranty is a big plus for going with the Champion name. Even if you can fix this, you run the risk that if something in the future comes up and if they are real sticklers, they might consider this tampering. At the very least I'd reach out to Champion to explain the situation.

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