85lebaront2 Posted September 2, 2020 Share Posted September 2, 2020 Actually, it is mounted "in" the arm rest's bump-out, and is below the arm rest itself. I don't have a pic of exactly where the speaker hits with the door closed, but in this pic you can kind of see that with the door closed it either fires into the seat or at the very least into your hip. But, I do see the threshold in the pic, so that kind of helps me. Looks good sir! If I had known you or anyone else wanted the plastic sill plates, I would have kept the ones from Big Ugly, the 1990 F250 parts truck. I was looking at the AC compressor wire and it dawned on me, you still are using the 1985 front harness layout. Darth's is part of the engine harness now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted September 2, 2020 Author Share Posted September 2, 2020 Looks good sir! If I had known you or anyone else wanted the plastic sill plates, I would have kept the ones from Big Ugly, the 1990 F250 parts truck. I was looking at the AC compressor wire and it dawned on me, you still are using the 1985 front harness layout. Darth's is part of the engine harness now. Shaun - The knob differences don't bother me at all. They are what they are. As for keeping the knob on, I hadn't thought about Loctite. I guess I was thinking more like somehow installing a set screw or removing the pattern piece and drilling it and tapping it for a screw. But if Loctite will do it and still let me get it off, perhaps that's the best way to do it. Bill - Yes, I'm still using the '85 harness in many places, inc the A/C. Well spotted. And I thought the black sill plates kind of fit with what I'm thinking of doing on the grille and headlight doors - black. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Machspeed Posted September 2, 2020 Share Posted September 2, 2020 Shaun - The knob differences don't bother me at all. They are what they are. As for keeping the knob on, I hadn't thought about Loctite. I guess I was thinking more like somehow installing a set screw or removing the pattern piece and drilling it and tapping it for a screw. But if Loctite will do it and still let me get it off, perhaps that's the best way to do it. Bill - Yes, I'm still using the '85 harness in many places, inc the A/C. Well spotted. And I thought the black sill plates kind of fit with what I'm thinking of doing on the grille and headlight doors - black. Engine looks good, Gary. Tell me about your oil dipstick? My dipstick is in the same location as yours despite the different engine. I put headers on my truck and I can't bolt my factory dipstick up to them without some modification. It basically just hangs there with the pan holding it up. What are you using there? I know you have headers as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted September 2, 2020 Author Share Posted September 2, 2020 Engine looks good, Gary. Tell me about your oil dipstick? My dipstick is in the same location as yours despite the different engine. I put headers on my truck and I can't bolt my factory dipstick up to them without some modification. It basically just hangs there with the pan holding it up. What are you using there? I know you have headers as well. Thanks, John. The dipstick is a Lokar. You can read more about it in this post. I couldn't find one that fit with the headers and my engine builder, Scotty, recommended the Lokar. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpin Posted September 2, 2020 Share Posted September 2, 2020 What are your opinions on the differences in the shift levers? I'm gonna end up with two different shift knobs on mine and I know it's gonna bug me. As for the shift knob, blue loctite? Don't gorille glue it like the transfer case knob on my BW1356. Although for what it's worth, it wasn't that hard to remove. Neither were the gorilla glued emblems from my fenders, although I'm now missing some paint there. https://core-shifters.com/collections/tc-knobs/products/transfer-case-shift-knob-for-1982-2016-ford-trucks-np208-bw1356-np271?variant=33072514822 I bought one of these. My original would move around and come off when you shifted. Drove me nuts! It’s held on with a set screw. The only thing I did was clean up the hole for the set screw, you could feel it when you grabbed the knob. I like it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted September 2, 2020 Author Share Posted September 2, 2020 What are your opinions on the differences in the shift levers? I'm gonna end up with two different shift knobs on mine and I know it's gonna bug me. As for the shift knob, blue loctite? Don't gorille glue it like the transfer case knob on my BW1356. Although for what it's worth, it wasn't that hard to remove. Neither were the gorilla glued emblems from my fenders, although I'm now missing some paint there. https://core-shifters.com/collections/tc-knobs/products/transfer-case-shift-knob-for-1982-2016-ford-trucks-np208-bw1356-np271?variant=33072514822 I bought one of these. My original would move around and come off when you shifted. Drove me nuts! It’s held on with a set screw. The only thing I did was clean up the hole for the set screw, you could feel it when you grabbed the knob. I like it! Thanks, Dane. Hadn't seen that. It says NP208 & BW1356, so I'm pretty sure it would fit a BW1345. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpin Posted September 3, 2020 Share Posted September 3, 2020 Thanks, Dane. Hadn't seen that. It says NP208 & BW1356, so I'm pretty sure it would fit a BW1345. Further down it mentions the 1345. Edit: Shaun it also says they have matching gear shift knobs! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted September 3, 2020 Share Posted September 3, 2020 Shaun - The knob differences don't bother me at all. They are what they are. As for keeping the knob on, I hadn't thought about Loctite. I guess I was thinking more like somehow installing a set screw or removing the pattern piece and drilling it and tapping it for a screw. But if Loctite will do it and still let me get it off, perhaps that's the best way to do it. Bill - Yes, I'm still using the '85 harness in many places, inc the A/C. Well spotted. And I thought the black sill plates kind of fit with what I'm thinking of doing on the grille and headlight doors - black. Loctite (or any other anaerobic) is the LAST thing you want near plastics of any kind. It will work it's way between molecules and create brittleness and cracks very quickly. Please refer to their own literature about this if you don't take my word. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted September 3, 2020 Author Share Posted September 3, 2020 Loctite (or any other anaerobic) is the LAST thing you want near plastics of any kind. It will work it's way between molecules and create brittleness and cracks very quickly. Please refer to their own literature about this if you don't take my word. Dane - Thanks, I missed it. Jim - I believe you. So, what do you recommend that will hold it on well enough but still let me get it of when I need to do so? I'm thinking about seam sealer. The stuff I have sets up pretty stiff but isn't permanent. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted September 3, 2020 Share Posted September 3, 2020 Dane - Thanks, I missed it. Jim - I believe you. So, what do you recommend that will hold it on well enough but still let me get it of when I need to do so? I'm thinking about seam sealer. The stuff I have sets up pretty stiff but isn't permanent. I don't know how loose the knob is??? I'd consider RTV my first choice. Maybe Shoe-Goo, or E6000? You want something tough and resilient. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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