Big Blue's Transformation

[ArdWrknTrk]

Got a bit done today. First, the upper radiator hose came in. Here's a pic of the original hose and the new one, which is F5TZ 8260-A. See if you can tell which is which.

And here's the F5 hose installed:

While raising and lowering the truck I spied the huck replacement bolt and remembered that the TSB says you are supposed to turn the wheels lock-to-lock several times then tighten the bolt down and tack weld it. So I did, and then tacked it, although my welding skills are even worse upside down than right side up.

I subsequently painted it with POR-15 to ensure it won't rust. And, by the way, I was amazed at how far the front wheels turn!

Last, I put the shorter 9/16" bolts in on the track bar. But, adjusting it is interesting. In the neutral position, meaning there's no pressure on the track bar when I have the truck in the air, the driver's-side tire sticks out 2" and the passenger's side tire sticks out 3" from the fenders. In other words, it is 1/2" off.

But when I tighten the track bar to get closer to even the truck crab-walks to the driver's side every time I raise and lower it with the lift. Today I had to reposition it 'cause it had gotten so far over.

So, I'm wondering how "correct" it needs to be. Sky's installation instructions say "Factory Fords we have seen up to a 3/4 inch." Thoughts?

Amazing when that hose doesn't have to clear dual A.I.R. pumps, isn't it?

I told you in the beginning about reduced turning radius of the D60 over a 50 or 44HD.

Now you begin to understand.

You know, you only need one tack.

That is going to be much more difficult to remove than need be. (If you ever have cause to)

I would get it on the ground -with the winch and all- make a note of how far offset it is, and move it that far.

They'll have to tweak it when you bring it in for an alignment anyhow but there's no reason to set it the best you can.

 

[85lebaront2]

Got a bit done today. First, the upper radiator hose came in. Here's a pic of the original hose and the new one, which is F5TZ 8260-A. See if you can tell which is which.

And here's the F5 hose installed:

While raising and lowering the truck I spied the huck replacement bolt and remembered that the TSB says you are supposed to turn the wheels lock-to-lock several times then tighten the bolt down and tack weld it. So I did, and then tacked it, although my welding skills are even worse upside down than right side up.

I subsequently painted it with POR-15 to ensure it won't rust. And, by the way, I was amazed at how far the front wheels turn!

Last, I put the shorter 9/16" bolts in on the track bar. But, adjusting it is interesting. In the neutral position, meaning there's no pressure on the track bar when I have the truck in the air, the driver's-side tire sticks out 2" and the passenger's side tire sticks out 3" from the fenders. In other words, it is 1/2" off.

But when I tighten the track bar to get closer to even the truck crab-walks to the driver's side every time I raise and lower it with the lift. Today I had to reposition it 'cause it had gotten so far over.

So, I'm wondering how "correct" it needs to be. Sky's installation instructions say "Factory Fords we have seen up to a 3/4 inch." Thoughts?

Gary, running at an angle like that it will "crab walk" as it goes up or down. Why do you thing the NASCAR guys have adjustable track bars. On the Spridget I used to crew, it had the quarter elliptic rear springs and a track bar. A fellow who knew a whole lot about making those cars handle showed us that the track bar should be neutral (horizontal) at static height, in this case driver installed and properly tight (about a 6 pack and a half) . I don't know about Sky's kit, but to me that track bar is kind of short which will mean it has a short arc, heck the rear track bar on my konvertible is longer than that.

[Gary Lewis]

Amazing when that hose doesn't have to clear dual A.I.R. pumps, isn't it?

I told you in the beginning about reduced turning radius of the D60 over a 50 or 44HD.

Now you begin to understand.

You know, you only need one tack.

That is going to be much more difficult to remove than need be. (If you ever have cause to)

I would get it on the ground -with the winch and all- make a note of how far offset it is, and move it that far.

They'll have to tweak it when you bring it in for an alignment anyhow but there's no reason to set it the best you can.

Yes, Jim, I knew about the turning circle, but it was amazing to see how far that tire turned.

And the hose sure does make it look a lot better under the hood.

As for the tack welds, since they are on the end of the bolt and are easily accessed it'll be easy to grind them down should I ever need to do so.

But I don't think I'm going to worry about adjusting the track bar until I take the truck in for alignment, although I will ask Steve/FoxFord33 what he suggests as he will be doing the alignment.

Bill - the track bar is adjustable +/- from the stock length. I need to see how the "neutral" position compares to the stock length. Would be interesting as some may not really need the adjustable one. But in my case the bushings were shot.

[kramttocs]

Yes, Jim, I knew about the turning circle, but it was amazing to see how far that tire turned.

And the hose sure does make it look a lot better under the hood.

As for the tack welds, since they are on the end of the bolt and are easily accessed it'll be easy to grind them down should I ever need to do so.

But I don't think I'm going to worry about adjusting the track bar until I take the truck in for alignment, although I will ask Steve/FoxFord33 what he suggests as he will be doing the alignment.

Bill - the track bar is adjustable +/- from the stock length. I need to see how the "neutral" position compares to the stock length. Would be interesting as some may not really need the adjustable one. But in my case the bushings were shot.

Looking great!

I didn't realize the Dana 60 turns tighter than the 50. That's good to know.

[Gary Lewis]

Looking great!

I didn't realize the Dana 60 turns tighter than the 50. That's good to know.

Scott - That was one of the many selling points for the D60. And I was sure pleased today when I cranked it full-stop.

[Gary Lewis]

Scott - That was one of the many selling points for the D60. And I was sure pleased today when I cranked it full-stop.

Ok, I have a couple of questions. First, I hope to put the oil in tomorrow, spin the pump, and see pressure. But remembering that I have the new Lokar dip stick as well as a very large non-stock oil cooler, I'm not sure how much oil to put in.

I'm sure I should put in 6 quarts to start with, but what if it isn't on the Full line after I pressurize it? Do I add more to get it to the Full line?

Next, I got your clutch hose/tube installed today, Jim. Thanks, again! And, I bled the clutch system using Bill's suggestion and it worked a treat.

But the line is quite a bit longer than the old one so I ran it in a different route. I ran it essentially horizontally out of the master over to the fender liner, down the fender liner to the cab, down the crease of the cab and came in from the side to the slave cylinder. You can see that in the pics below, with the one on the right having been shot essentially straight up and a red arrow added 'cause it is hard to see the hose.

The distance between the closest header pipe and the hose is 4 1/2" the way I've run it. But after I got it connected and bled it dawned on me that I can't get the boot on since it requires the hose to come in from the front - which puts it far closer to the header.

So my question is what should I do? I can think of three options, but you may think of more:

1. Re-route the line to come in from the front and add the boot.

2. Leave it coming in from the side, but add the leftover insulating wrap I got for the dip stick to protect it.

3. Do as in #2 but split the boot and put it over the slave.

Thoughts, please.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Ok, I have a couple of questions. First, I hope to put the oil in tomorrow, spin the pump, and see pressure. But remembering that I have the new Lokar dip stick as well as a very large non-stock oil cooler, I'm not sure how much oil to put in.

I'm sure I should put in 6 quarts to start with, but what if it isn't on the Full line after I pressurize it? Do I add more to get it to the Full line?

Next, I got your clutch hose/tube installed today, Jim. Thanks, again! And, I bled the clutch system using Bill's suggestion and it worked a treat.

But the line is quite a bit longer than the old one so I ran it in a different route. I ran it essentially horizontally out of the master over to the fender liner, down the fender liner to the cab, down the crease of the cab and came in from the side to the slave cylinder. You can see that in the pics below, with the one on the right having been shot essentially straight up and a red arrow added 'cause it is hard to see the hose.

The distance between the closest header pipe and the hose is 4 1/2" the way I've run it. But after I got it connected and bled it dawned on me that I can't get the boot on since it requires the hose to come in from the front - which puts it far closer to the header.

So my question is what should I do? I can think of three options, but you may think of more:

1. Re-route the line to come in from the front and add the boot.

2. Leave it coming in from the side, but add the leftover insulating wrap I got for the dip stick to protect it.

3. Do as in #2 but split the boot and put it over the slave.

Thoughts, please.

I can't offer a lot of advice, but I do think the metal + braided stainless line is superior to the plastic line.

AFA the oil level, your filter should have an anti-drainback valve.

Fill it until the sump level is correct.

These engines (in stockish form) rely on some splash, so the windage should be correct.

You can -and probably should- check with Scotty on this, but I'm pretty sure windage is important

 

[Gary Lewis]

I can't offer a lot of advice, but I do think the metal + braided stainless line is superior to the plastic line.

AFA the oil level, your filter should have an anti-drainback valve.

Fill it until the sump level is correct.

These engines (in stockish form) rely on some splash, so the windage should be correct.

You can -and probably should- check with Scotty on this, but I'm pretty sure windage is important

I agree the metal/braided hose is better. No doubt. I'm just wondering how best to protect even it as well as the slave cylinder.

I think I'll leave the hose coming in from the side and put the heat wrap on it. That will keep the line as far away from the header as is possible, and provide a bit more protection to the line itself. And since I didn't have any problems before and I now have ceramic-coated headers, it ought to be even better.

On the oil, at your suggestion I did send Scotty a note. We'll see what he says, but I'm guessing that I should fill it with 6 quarts, spin the oil pump up, and then let it sit for 15 minutes and check the level. I'm going to bet that it'll be a pint low given the size of that oil cooler.

However, if I remember correctly the adapter is a temp-controlled unit. Will it send oil to the cooler in my test?

[85lebaront2]

I agree the metal/braided hose is better. No doubt. I'm just wondering how best to protect even it as well as the slave cylinder.

I think I'll leave the hose coming in from the side and put the heat wrap on it. That will keep the line as far away from the header as is possible, and provide a bit more protection to the line itself. And since I didn't have any problems before and I now have ceramic-coated headers, it ought to be even better.

On the oil, at your suggestion I did send Scotty a note. We'll see what he says, but I'm guessing that I should fill it with 6 quarts, spin the oil pump up, and then let it sit for 15 minutes and check the level. I'm going to bet that it'll be a pint low given the size of that oil cooler.

However, if I remember correctly the adapter is a temp-controlled unit. Will it send oil to the cooler in my test?

Unless it is an aftermarket adapter, there is no temperature control in it, just a bypass valve, which with cold oil might do just that.

[Gary Lewis]

Unless it is an aftermarket adapter, there is no temperature control in it, just a bypass valve, which with cold oil might do just that.

It is a Ford part, so maybe I mis-typed. Bypass meaning that when the oil is cold it'll bypass the cooler. So, when I spin the pump up and then let it sit I probably won't get oil into the cooler. But does the cooler drain back to the sump anyway when the engine is off? If so, does the system have too little oil when running and the oil is hot?

I'm confused and probably confusing y'all.